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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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As I mentioned my Bosch 1750W electric chainsaw died a while back. I
asked a local chap, Eric, €” who has a tree surgeon business €” for advice, and I struck gold. I'd got it in my head that I needed a long blade and a powerful machine. He gently steered me into one of his storerooms, where he has approx 20 saws of various types. Once I'd used a big machine of the type I thought I wanted I realised immediately that it was too heavy and cumbersome for me. It would also be unnecessary. He took me to a chainsaw shop where he is a major customer and I ended up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade 5 litre chain oil Plastic fuel can 5 litres petrol Chainsaw file kit Helmet 3 x 100mm two stroke oil 3 round chainsaw files Chainsaw gloves Eric gave me some ballistic nylon PPE. Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. Bill |
#2
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![]() "williamwright" wrote in message ... As I mentioned my Bosch 1750W electric chainsaw died a while back. I asked a local chap, Eric, €” who has a tree surgeon business €” for advice, and I struck gold. I'd got it in my head that I needed a long blade and a powerful machine. He gently steered me into one of his storerooms, where he has approx 20 saws of various types. Once I'd used a big machine of the type I thought I wanted I realised immediately that it was too heavy and cumbersome for me. It would also be unnecessary. He took me to a chainsaw shop where he is a major customer and I ended up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade 5 litre chain oil Plastic fuel can 5 litres petrol Chainsaw file kit Helmet 3 x 100mm two stroke oil 3 round chainsaw files Chainsaw gloves Eric gave me some ballistic nylon PPE. Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. What did you learn that you didnt already know ? I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Dunno, cant see why the knowledge needs to be learned that way. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. Less than half the price of the Makita DUC353Z if you dont already have the Makita batterys and charger too. I hate small petrol engines tho and the electric ones are much better when up a ladder etc when starting etc. |
#3
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On 14/05/2021 00:59, Rod Speed wrote:
What did you learn that you didnt already know ? Mainly refinements of technique to increase work flow, safety methods, care of the machine, maintenance. Much about PPE. Different types of chain for different jobs. All sorts of little hints and tips. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Dunno, cant see why the knowledge needs to be learned that way. It's much better than trying to teach yourself. If you get a more experienced person to teach you, methodically, that IS 'going on a course'. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. Less than half the price of the Makita DUC353Z if you dont already have the Makita batterys and charger too. I hate small petrol engines tho and the electric ones are much better when up a ladder etc when starting etc. You never start it when you aren't on the ground. You start it and lock the blade until you want use it. In any case, using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Ladders are for access; they aren't for prolonged work. Bill |
#4
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williamwright wrote
Rod Speed wrote What did you learn that you didnt already know ? Mainly refinements of technique to increase work flow, safety methods, care of the machine, maintenance. Much about PPE. Different types of chain for different jobs. All sorts of little hints and tips. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Dunno, cant see why the knowledge needs to be learned that way. It's much better than trying to teach yourself. I'm not convinced with that stuff you listed. It can all be spelt out in documentation. If you get a more experienced person to teach you, methodically, that IS 'going on a course'. Sure, but I wasnt talking about that as an alternative. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. Less than half the price of the Makita DUC353Z if you dont already have the Makita batterys and charger too. I hate small petrol engines tho and the electric ones are much better when up a ladder etc when starting etc. You never start it when you aren't on the ground. You do if it stope when you are up the ladder using it. You start it and lock the blade until you want use it. Even worse to have to climb down and back up again when it stops when you are on the ladder. In any case, using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. There is no alternative at times. Ladders are for access; they aren't for prolonged work. Its more complicated than that with chainsaw use. |
#5
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williamwright wrote:
He took me to a chainsaw shop The first rule of 'chainsaw shop' is ... Sounding like chainsaws are the new angle grinders |
#6
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On Fri, 14 May 2021 00:00:20 +0100, williamwright
wrote: snip Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. snip Now there is a surprise. Now maybe try applying that to others things you assumed you fully understood ... ? https://ibb.co/zQF3SZw 'Ignorance is bliss'? (well, other than in the case of a chainsaw and when it takes your arm off). snip Cheers, T i m |
#7
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williamwright wrote:
Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Ive never had a lesson but I *did* buy all the appropriate PPE before using it (and always wear it) and spent a fair time watching YouTube videos learning what not to do. A poor substitute for formal instruction probably but I think I know enough to keep me safe and to know my limits. Still, following your post I might well look into doing a course. My saw has already saved me so much money in firewood its not hard to justify the cost now. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. A new chain on the electric one might have the same effect. ;-) Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#8
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On Fri, 14 May 2021 09:59:54 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: What did you learn that you didn¢t already know ? Well, not everyone is a trolling sociopathic senile know-it-all like you, senile Rodent! -- Xeno to senile Rodent: "You're a sad old man Rod, truly sad." MID: |
#9
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On Fri, 14 May 2021 11:49:06 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread -- Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 86-year-old senile Australian cretin's pathological trolling: https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/ |
#10
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On 14/05/2021 00:00, williamwright wrote:
As I mentioned my Bosch 1750W electric chainsaw died a while back. I asked a local chap, Eric, €” who has a tree surgeon business €” for advice, and I struck gold. I'd got it in my head that I needed a long blade and a powerful machine. He gently steered me into one of his storerooms, where he has approx 20 saws of various types. Once I'd used a big machine of the type I thought I wanted I realised immediately that it was too heavy and cumbersome for me. It would also be unnecessary. He took me to a chainsaw shop where he is a major customer and I ended I did wonder a bit what you wanted a 20" bar for! up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade Yup nice saw. About 1.4 kW output, so plenty for a 12" to 14" bar. For logging and general garden maintenance I have always found the 14" bar to be more that adequate without needing to resort to plunge cut techniques. 5 litre chain oil Plastic fuel can 5 litres petrol Chainsaw file kit Helmet 3 x 100mm two stroke oil I usually get the Stihl 1 litre bottle with the measuring chamber on the top which makes it easy to make up a litre at a time at whatever ratio you require. (but then again I don't usually make up a gallon at a time - and not all my tools need the same oil ![]() 3 round chainsaw files Did you get a flat one for filing the rakers? TBH, having got the electric sharpener, I have given up with files - the the difference in cut performance is so marked compared to what I had been able to achieve by hand in the past. Chainsaw gloves Eric gave me some ballistic nylon PPE. Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Yup I picked up quite a few from a retired builder friend, who was trained by a demolition expert. He was good on technique and basic safe handling - but was from an age before PPE, so I had to learn that elsewhere. (although to be fair, the demo guys used to wear a second pair of jeans over the first to give a bit of lower leg protection!) Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. In reality, the electric one has much the same (possibly even slightly more) power, but is possibly less well balanced. The main improvement will be likely down to a really sharp[1] chain, and probably better bar oiling. (good oilers make them cut much better IME) [1] Not only sharp, but with the rakers height filed low enough to allow the blade edge to actually get adequate bite into the wood. I once spent a frustrating time with what was a theoretically sharp chain, not making much progress, and getting very fine sawdust like chips. Only after filing the rakers (angle grinder!), was cut performance restored, and the feeling of "ah, just like a real one!" -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#11
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williamwright wrote:
using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... |
#12
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In article ,
Andy Burns wrote: williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... I have a small electric chain saw on an extendable pole. Very useful for this sort of job. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
#13
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Andy Burns wrote:
williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Never use chainsaw from a ladder You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. -- Chris Green · |
#14
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On 14/05/2021 00:00, williamwright wrote:
Chainsaw file kit I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp", changed my mind very fast. Get one. Very easy to use, very fast, great precision result each time. Note: you need a different tool or at least files in the tool for different sized chains. |
#15
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On 14/05/2021 13:38, Chris Bacon wrote:
On 14/05/2021 00:00, williamwright wrote: Chainsaw file kit I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp", changed my mind very fast. Get one. Very easy to use, very fast, great precision result each time. Note: you need a different tool or at least files in the tool for different sized chains. Note: This is the tool with two round files and one flat file in a holder: https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...-EasyFile.aspx You can get them lots cheaper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlHJYnMBBzA |
#16
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"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
... On 14/05/2021 00:00, williamwright wrote: Chainsaw file kit I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp Is that a chainsaw for fish-filleting? ;-) |
#17
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On 14/05/2021 09:31, Tim+ wrote:
williamwright wrote: Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Ive never had a lesson but I *did* buy all the appropriate PPE before using it (and always wear it) and spent a fair time watching YouTube videos learning what not to do. A poor substitute for formal instruction probably but I think I know enough to keep me safe and to know my limits. Still, following your post I might well look into doing a course. My saw has already saved me so much money in firewood its not hard to justify the cost now. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. A new chain on the electric one might have the same effect. ;-) I was wondering how much of the efficiency is dictated by the chain alone and how sharp the teeth are. |
#18
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Chris Bacon wrote:
I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp", changed my mind very fast. Get one. Very easy to use, very fast, great precision result each time. https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...-EasyFile.aspx You can get them lots cheaper. Project Farm seemed to like the 2-in-1, if you can't justify the motorised grinder type https://youtu.be/BzmKwxfqjjQ |
#19
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Saw a chap take down a big conifer four/five years ago. He used four
saws to do the job. A small one at the top, then working down until he used the big one to cut the trunk. Very impressive to watch. |
#20
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On 14/05/2021 14:14, Andy Burns wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote: I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp", changed my mind very fast. Get one. Very easy to use, very fast, great precision result each time. https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...-EasyFile.aspx You can get them lots cheaper. Project Farm seemed to like the 2-in-1, if you can't justify the motorised grinder type https://youtu.be/BzmKwxfqjjQ Yes, it's very very good, and there's no farting around with setup and adjustments and electricity to be done. £25-£30 gets one it seems. Mine was £25 including postage ![]() |
#21
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On 14/05/2021 02:49, Rod Speed wrote:
I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Dunno, cant see why the knowledge needs to be learned that way. It's much better than trying to teach yourself. I'm not convinced with that stuff you listed. It can all be spelt out in documentation. As any educationalist will tell you, a teacher is better than a book. You never start it when you aren't on the ground. You do if it stope when you are up the ladder using it. No you don't. And it won't stop unless you want it to if you've learnt to control it properly. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction. You start it and lock the blade until you want use it. Even worse to have to climb down and back up again when it stops when you are on the ladder. It won't if you've learnt to control it properly. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction. In any case, using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. There is no alternative at times. Agreed, but it's still dodgy. Ladders are for access; they aren't for prolonged work. Its more complicated than that with chainsaw use. It's more complicated than that with most things. But avoid working from a latter where possible. Bill |
#22
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On 14/05/2021 10:34, Andy Burns wrote:
I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, That isn't a DIY job. Go to hospital. Bill |
#23
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On 14/05/2021 09:31, Tim+ wrote:
Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. A new chain on the electric one might have the same effect. ;-) Tim It had a new chain, there's a spare chain still in the box, and I know how to sharpen them. I know what a blunt chain feels like. It's quite different to an underpowered machine. Bill |
#24
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On 14/05/2021 14:09, Fredxx wrote:
A new chain on the electric one might have the same effect. ;-) I was wondering how much of the efficiency is dictated by the chain alone and how sharp the teeth are. There are different ways of sharpening and different types of chain. Bill |
#25
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On 14/05/2021 10:14, John Rumm wrote:
I did wonder a bit what you wanted a 20" bar for! up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade Yup nice saw. About 1.4 kW output, so plenty for a 12" to 14" bar. Ignorance! For logging and general garden maintenance I have always found the 14" bar to be more that adequate without needing to resort to plunge cut techniques. 5 litre chain oil Plastic fuel can 5 litres petrol Chainsaw file kit Helmet 3 x 100mm two stroke oil I usually get the Stihl 1 litre bottle with the measuring chamber on the top which makes it easy to make up a litre at a time at whatever ratio you require. (but then again I don't usually make up a gallon at a time - and not all my tools need the same oil ![]() 3 round chainsaw files Did you get a flat one for filing the rakers? It was a kit with the thing for testing the height of the spurs and a file for filing them. Also a thing for cleaning the bar. And a thing for getting stones out of horses' hooves. Allegedly. TBH, having got the electric sharpener, I have given up with files - the the difference in cut performance is so marked compared to what I had been able to achieve by hand in the past. I've always used an electric sharpener but my guru despises them almost as much as he hates homosexuals, black men, and anyone wearing a suit. Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one. In reality, the electric one has much the same (possibly even slightly more) power, but is possibly less well balanced. Agreed. The main improvement will be likely down to a really sharp[1] chain, and probably better bar oiling. (good oilers make them cut much better IME) [1] Not only sharp, but with the rakers height filed low enough to allow the blade edge to actually get adequate bite into the wood. I once spent a frustrating time with what was a theoretically sharp chain, not making much progress, and getting very fine sawdust like chips. Only after filing the rakers (angle grinder!), was cut performance restored, and the feeling of "ah, just like a real one!" The gadget I mentioned above is calibrated and the recommendation for this machine is 0.65mm. I'm glad one person at least is prepared to have a helpful discussion about this rather than just sniping and nit-picking. Bill |
#26
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![]() "Chris Green" wrote in message ... Andy Burns wrote: williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Works fine with a pole saw. Never use chainsaw from a ladder Not practical in some situations. Cant even get a bucket truck anywhere near some trees. You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. Skills yes, not training tho. |
#27
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On 14/05/2021 20:34, Rod Speed wrote:
"Chris Green" wrote in message ... Andy Burns wrote: williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Â*Â* Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Works fine with a pole saw. Â*Â* Never use chainsaw from a ladder Not practical in some situations. Cant even get a bucket truck anywhere near some trees. You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. Skills yes, not training tho. As usual you're being disputatious for the sake of it. Bill |
#28
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On 14/05/2021 15:03, williamwright wrote:
I did wonder a bit what you wanted a 20" bar for! up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade Yup nice saw. About 1.4 kW output, so plenty for a 12" to 14" bar. Ignorance! My ignorance I mean! Bill |
#29
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On Sat, 15 May 2021 05:34:39 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread -- "Who or What is Rod Speed? Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard man" on the InterNet." https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/ |
#30
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williamwright wrote:
On 14/05/2021 20:34, Rod Speed wrote: "Chris Green" wrote in message ... Andy Burns wrote: williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Â*Â* Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Works fine with a pole saw. Â*Â* Never use chainsaw from a ladder Not practical in some situations. Cant even get a bucket truck anywhere near some trees. You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. Skills yes, not training tho. As usual you're being disputatious for the sake of it. Ay? How was I being disputatious (if there is such a word)??? -- Chris Green · |
#31
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williamwright wrote
Rod Speed wrote I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course. Dunno, cant see why the knowledge needs to be learned that way. It's much better than trying to teach yourself. I'm not convinced with that stuff you listed. It can all be spelt out in documentation. As any educationalist will tell you, a teacher is better than a book. Corse they wouldnt be even a little biased, eh ? And just plain wrong too. My MSc supervisor was a completely hopeless teacher. The most you could ever get out of his lectures was a rough idea about what was covered and read up about that in the the textbook. You never start it when you aren't on the ground. You do if it stops when you are up the ladder using it. No you don't. And it won't stop unless you want it to if you've learnt to control it properly. How odd that the pros do have theirs stop. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction. Bull****. You start it and lock the blade until you want use it. Even worse to have to climb down and back up again when it stops when you are on the ladder. It won't if you've learnt to control it properly. How odd that the pros do have theirs stop. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction. Bull****. In any case, using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. There is no alternative at times. Agreed, but it's still dodgy. Nope, not when you do it properly so you arent reaching too far. Ladders are for access; they aren't for prolonged work. Its more complicated than that with chainsaw use. It's more complicated than that with most things. But avoid working from a latter where possible. Plenty of the time there is no access for a bucket truck or lift etc. And not practical to erect scaffolding. |
#32
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williamwright wrote
Andy Burns wrote I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, That isn't a DIY job. Corse it is with a decent pole saw. Go to hospital. Didnt need to. |
#33
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On 15/05/2021 00:08, Rod Speed wrote:
williamwright wrote Andy Burns wrote I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, That isn't a DIY job. Corse it is with a decent pole saw. Go to hospital. Didnt need to. I think Bill had another kind of limb in mind. |
#34
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On 14/05/2021 20:44, williamwright wrote:
On 14/05/2021 15:03, williamwright wrote: I did wonder a bit what you wanted a 20" bar for! up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade Yup nice saw. About 1.4 kW output, so plenty for a 12" to 14" bar. Ignorance! My ignorance I mean! Ah, the 20" bar, yup see what you mean! :-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#35
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On 15/05/2021 00:27, Fredxx wrote:
On 15/05/2021 00:08, Rod Speed wrote: williamwright wrote Andy Burns wrote I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, That isn't a DIY job. Corse it is with a decent pole saw. Go to hospital. Didnt need to. I think Bill had another kind of limb in mind. Well both would be possible with a chainsaw! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#36
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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williamwright wrote
Rod Speed wrote Chris Green wrote Andy Burns wrote williamwright wrote using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Works fine with a pole saw. Never use chainsaw from a ladder Not practical in some situations. Cant even get a bucket truck anywhere near some trees. You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. Skills yes, not training tho. As usual you're being disputatious for the sake of it. Nope, pointing out the problem with the original claim. And you keep trying to bull**** your way out of your predicament, as always. |
#37
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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![]() "Chris Green" wrote in message ... williamwright wrote: On 14/05/2021 20:34, Rod Speed wrote: "Chris Green" wrote in message ... Andy Burns wrote: williamwright wrote: using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ... The rules I work to a- Never use chainsaw above shoulder height Works fine with a pole saw. Never use chainsaw from a ladder Not practical in some situations. Cant even get a bucket truck anywhere near some trees. You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely. Skills yes, not training tho. As usual you're being disputatious for the sake of it. Ay? How was I being disputatious (if there is such a word)??? He is saying I am. |
#38
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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![]() "Fredxx" wrote in message ... On 15/05/2021 00:08, Rod Speed wrote: williamwright wrote Andy Burns wrote I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, That isn't a DIY job. Corse it is with a decent pole saw. Go to hospital. Didnt need to. I think Bill had another kind of limb in mind. Yeah, that was certainly a whoosh for me. |
#39
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Peter Johnson wrote
Saw a chap take down a big conifer four/five years ago. He used four saws to do the job. A small one at the top, then working down until he used the big one to cut the trunk. Very impressive to watch. Yeah, watched a pro take down a whole line of very big palm trees along a neighbour's back fence line with no access at all. He did it with spiked boots and a belt chain and a chainsaw, starting at the top and then taking off big chunks of the trunk as he came down the trunk. Should have videoed it. |
#40
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On Sat, 15 May 2021 12:54:57 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote: Peter Johnson wrote Saw a chap take down a big conifer four/five years ago. He used four saws to do the job. A small one at the top, then working down until he used the big one to cut the trunk. Very impressive to watch. Yeah, watched a pro take down a whole line of very big palm trees along a neighbour's back fence line with no access at all. None? So did he only take them down level with the top of the fence? He did it with spiked boots More likely strap on 'spikes' / 'irons'. and a belt chain Wire strop. and a chainsaw, Much quicker than a bow saw ... starting at the top Best place when chogging a tree down. ;-) and then taking off big chunks Chogs. of the trunk as he came down the trunk. Std practice. Should have videoed it. Have you heard of Youtube? ;-) Cheers, T i m |
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