I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off.Â* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working
chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as
possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally I'd
try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some sort of
penetrating oil. The very last thing you want to do is apply so much
torque that you damage the boss or the threads. Remember that a stud
extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.

On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

Sadly stud extractors don't come with a maximum torque setting and I
have heard so many stories in broken extractors. In short unless the
item comes out with a minimal torque I wouldn't push my luck.

If the above fails or you don't have an extractor, being brass I would
drill this out, there's even a nice pilot hole for you.

With a correctly sized drill I've generally been able to pick the bits
of thread out, even in steel and then run a tap to clear the thread.

Most tanks have a drain, so you may be able to remove the fragments that
fall into the tank through that?

On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off.Â* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working
chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as
possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally I'd
try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some sort of
penetrating oil. The very last thing you want to do is apply so much
torque that you damage the boss or the threads. Remember that a stud
extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

Kal Ico wrote

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings
to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out

An extractor should get it out.

and suggest how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

A tap should repair it fine.

"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or soft?
Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working chisel to
try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as possible, as it
will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally I'd try to make the
thread interface visible, and soak it with some sort of penetrating oil.

That won't work if goo has been used.

Heat might help.

The very last thing you want to do is apply so much torque that you damage
the boss or the threads.

But the boss can be held with a vice grip.

Remember that a stud extractor tends to expand the male part, making it
tighter.

But its the only way to get a decent grip
on what needs to be removed now.

In message , Fredxx
writes
On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off.* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working
chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as
possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally
I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some
sort of penetrating oil. The very last thing you want to do is apply
so much torque that you damage the boss or the threads. Remember that
a stud extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

Would it benefit from local heating prior to further rotational force?

There may have been thread sealant used which can sometimes be softened
by heat.


--
Tim Lamb

On Fri, 5 Feb 2021 14:36:10 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Kal Ico wrote

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings
to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out

An extractor should get it out.

Someone said that already LONG before you, sociopath! Just what in hell
makes you believe that ANYONE's answer will only be valid when YOU confirm
it, you obnoxious sociopathic senile pest? Your sociopathy?

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 04/02/2021 16:35, Kal Ico wrote:
I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.


It's brass which will solder well. Clean up the inside as best you can
and solder a suitable brass thing in - maybe a brass bolt or just some
brass rod. Use flux and a small blowtorch. There should be plenty of
area to make a strong enough joint, and the heat may well help too.

--
Cheers
Clive

"Rod Speed" wrote in news:i83spiFg3c9U1
@mid.individual.net:



Kal Ico wrote

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings
to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out

An extractor should get it out.

and suggest how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

A tap should repair it fine.


An extractor will not damage the thread - you would put the extractor into
the hole and wind out the broken stub.

Clive Arthur wrote in news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont-
email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for it to
have been tighted onto.

JohnP wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote in news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont-
email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for it to
have been tighted onto.


The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight! As a
stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it might not be
the best tool. Id try one first probably but I suspect itll need careful
drilling and then cleaning up the threads with a tap.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Tim+ wrote in
:

JohnP wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote in
news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont- email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for
it to have been tighted onto.


The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight!
As a stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it
might not be the best tool. Id try one first probably but I
suspect itll need careful drilling and then cleaning up the threads
with a tap.

Tim


Depends - was it a tapered thread - or did the fitting have a shoulder?

On 04/02/2021 21:45, Fredxx wrote:
On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off.Â* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working
chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as
possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally
I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some
sort of penetrating oil. The very last thing you want to do is apply
so much torque that you damage the boss or the threads. Remember that
a stud extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

A good method for a nut or bolt head, might be worth a try if there is
enough metal to get at. You need the right sort of punch. Mine isn't
round, it has four tapering "sides" like a very elongated pyramid, and
then at the end a "flat"at an angle of about 30 degrees to the axis,
oriented diagonally so that there is one "point" that digs in and
provides the driving force without tending to slip laterally.

On 05/02/2021 03:48, Rod Speed wrote:



Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working
chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as
possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally
I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some
sort of penetrating oil.

That won't work if goo has been used.

Well it does depend on the "goo", I was thinking of the soft stuff used
for sealing automotive seams before painting, this might well be
softened by hydrocarbons.


Heat might help.

Agreed. That will work on "hard" or "soft" sealants.

JohnP wrote:
Tim+ wrote in
:

JohnP wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote in
news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont- email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for
it to have been tighted onto.


The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight!
As a stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it
might not be the best tool. Id try one first probably but I
suspect itll need careful drilling and then cleaning up the threads
with a tap.

Tim


Depends - was it a tapered thread

Unlikely given that it looks like a nut welded to the air reservoir.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 05/02/2021 09:37, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Fredxx
writes
On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank
has sheared off.Â* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a
wood-working chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the
interface as possible, as it will be contributing to the removal
torque. Ideally I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and
soak it with some sort ofÂ* penetrating oil. The very last thing you
want to do is apply so muchÂ* torque that you damage the boss or the
threads. Remember that a studÂ* extractor tends to expand the male
part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

Would it benefit from local heating prior to further rotational force?

There may have been thread sealant used which can sometimes be softened
by heat.

Softened maybe.

I have had the experience of heating up threaded parts where I
carbonises the grease/organic matter between the threads. The movement I
initially had disappeared and have since wondered if there was some
reaction incorporating the carbon into the steel parts.

Where you have dissimilar metals there is always the thought that
differential expansion can help. Brass has a thermal expansion
coefficient nominally twice that of steel.

After tentative easing with a stud extractor I would drill this out very
carefully. Worst case scenario if the threads are seriously damaged is a
helicoil.

On 5 Feb 2021 at 21:33:50 GMT, "Tim+" wrote:

JohnP wrote:
Tim+ wrote in
:

JohnP wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote in
news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont- email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for
it to have been tighted onto.


The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight!
As a stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it
might not be the best tool. Id try one first probably but I
suspect itll need careful drilling and then cleaning up the threads
with a tap.

Tim


Depends - was it a tapered thread

Unlikely given that it looks like a nut welded to the air reservoir.

Tim

Do we know if it was broken off by an accidental sideways force, in which case
it might not be particularly tight apart from thread sealant? If it sheared
off trying to undo it a stud extractor is likely likely to damage it by making
it tighter and distorted, or shear of the whole ad hoc boss.

--
Roger Hayter

Roger Hayter wrote:
On 5 Feb 2021 at 21:33:50 GMT, "Tim+" wrote:

JohnP wrote:
Tim+ wrote in
:

JohnP wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote in
news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont- email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for
it to have been tighted onto.


The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight!
As a stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it
might not be the best tool. Id try one first probably but I
suspect itll need careful drilling and then cleaning up the threads
with a tap.

Tim


Depends - was it a tapered thread

Unlikely given that it looks like a nut welded to the air reservoir.

Tim

Do we know if it was broken off by an accidental sideways force, in which case
it might not be particularly tight apart from thread sealant?

If it was sideways force I would describe that as €œsnapped off€�. To me,
€œsheared off€� suggests breakage during attempted rotation.

If it sheared
off trying to undo it a stud extractor is likely likely to damage it by making
it tighter and distorted, or shear of the whole ad hoc boss.


Well I think were agreeing.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Depends - was it a tapered thread

Unlikely given that it looks like a nut welded to the air reservoir.

Tim


/The bit that needs removing is screwed into that.

"JohnP" wrote in message
. ..
"Rod Speed" wrote in news:i83spiFg3c9U1
@mid.individual.net:



Kal Ico wrote

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings
to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out

An extractor should get it out.

and suggest how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

A tap should repair it fine.

An extractor will not damage the thread

That depends on whether so much force needs
to be exerted on the stub that the extractor
expands the stub and that damages the thread.

- you would put the extractor into the
hole and wind out the broken stub.

Its not always that black and white when
goo has been used on the thread.

"JohnP" wrote in message
. ..
Clive Arthur wrote in news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont-
email.me:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8W

I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for it
to
have been tighted onto.

But the goo may well have set now and be tight for that reason.

On 05/02/2021 21:48, Fredxx wrote:
On 05/02/2021 09:37, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Fredxx
writes
On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air
tank
has sheared off.Â* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or
soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a
wood-working chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the
interface as possible, as it will be contributing to the removal
torque. Ideally I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and
soak it with some sort ofÂ* penetrating oil. The very last thing you
want to do is apply so muchÂ* torque that you damage the boss or the
threads. Remember that a studÂ* extractor tends to expand the male
part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

Would it benefit from local heating prior to further rotational force?

There may have been thread sealant used which can sometimes be
softened by heat.

Softened maybe.

I have had the experience of heating up threaded parts where I
carbonises the grease/organic matter between the threads. The movement I
initially had disappeared and have since wondered if there was some
reaction incorporating the carbon into the steel parts.

Where you have dissimilar metals there is always the thought that
differential expansion can help. Brass has a thermal expansion
coefficient nominally twice that of steel.

And the brass bit seems to be inside the welded steel boss, so
maybe rapid cooling first to shrink the broken bit, and then try
the stud extractor.
A CO2 fire extinguisher might be able to provide some rapid cooling,
since that seems to be how rapid wine coolers work.

In message , Andrew
writes
On 05/02/2021 21:48, Fredxx wrote:
On 05/02/2021 09:37, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Fredxx
writes
On 04/02/2021 20:29, newshound wrote:
On 04/02/2021 18:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/02/2021 16:56, JohnP wrote:
Kal Ico wrote in
:

I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the
air tank
has sheared off.* You can see it he

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w44v8jSG2noBKVHv5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xAaN8WTswVh6wuCQ6

Can anyone recommend the best way to get the old bit out and suggest
how to repair/re-thread so I can use it again?

Thans.

Stud Extractor

+1


Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard
or soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a
wood-working chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the
interface as possible, as it will be contributing to the removal
torque. Ideally I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and
soak it with some sort of* penetrating oil. The very last thing you
want to do is apply so much* torque that you damage the boss or the
extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.

I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may
loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.

Would it benefit from local heating prior to further rotational force?

There may have been thread sealant used which can sometimes be
softened by heat.
Softened maybe.
I have had the experience of heating up threaded parts where I
carbonises the grease/organic matter between the threads. The movement
I initially had disappeared and have since wondered if there was some
reaction incorporating the carbon into the steel parts.
Where you have dissimilar metals there is always the thought that
differential expansion can help. Brass has a thermal expansion
coefficient nominally twice that of steel.

And the brass bit seems to be inside the welded steel boss, so
maybe rapid cooling first to shrink the broken bit, and then try
the stud extractor.
A CO2 fire extinguisher might be able to provide some rapid cooling,
since that seems to be how rapid wine coolers work.

The photo appears to show evidence of thread sealant. The only thing I
have found to help is localised heating.
If a suitable square section bar was to hand (1/2" socket drive?) you
could carefully file 4 matching grooves in the bore.


--
Tim Lamb

Thanks everyone for your great bits of advice. I'll tackle it at the weekend and let you know how I get on. All the best.