Bought a house and the bathtub spigot leaks at the base down the wall.
It drips when water is going through the spigot. It is a slow,
steady stream from the base down the wall when I pull up the shower
pull thingee and the shower is on.
How do I remove the spigot? There are no screws or anything.
Do I just unscrew counterclockwise?
Once removed, do I just replace whatever is in there, whether it's
teflon tape or plumber's putty or gaskets; or should I buy a new
spigot, too?

Niel wrote:

Bought a house and the bathtub spigot leaks at the base down the wall.
It drips when water is going through the spigot. It is a slow,
steady stream from the base down the wall when I pull up the shower
pull thingee and the shower is on.
How do I remove the spigot? There are no screws or anything.
Do I just unscrew counterclockwise?
Once removed, do I just replace whatever is in there, whether it's
teflon tape or plumber's putty or gaskets; or should I buy a new
spigot, too?

If no screws underneath the spout, it *should* unscrew
counterclockwise.
BUT.....if the pipe is copper or ancient galv iron, there
is an even chance that it will pretzel or snap off.

If you do manage to get it off, replace the spout with
one just like it. Use Teflon tape in the threads.

Jim

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Niel wrote:

Bought a house and the bathtub spigot leaks at the base down the wall.
It drips when water is going through the spigot. It is a slow,
steady stream from the base down the wall when I pull up the shower
pull thingee and the shower is on.
How do I remove the spigot? There are no screws or anything.
Do I just unscrew counterclockwise?
Once removed, do I just replace whatever is in there, whether it's
teflon tape or plumber's putty or gaskets; or should I buy a new
spigot, too?

If no screws underneath the spout, it *should* unscrew
counterclockwise.
BUT.....if the pipe is copper or ancient galv iron, there
is an even chance that it will pretzel or snap off.

If you do manage to get it off, replace the spout with
one just like it. Use Teflon tape in the threads.

Some words of painfully learned advice- shut off house water first, and have
a plan of attack if the pipe doesn't come out clean. Like figure out what
you will do if it busts off in wall behind tile. Hopefully, wet wall backs
up to a closet or something, and you can easily cut an access panel into the
back, and just put masonite over it later for future access. Either have the
spare parts on hand (they are pretty cheap), or do the work when the supply
place is open. If this is the only bathroom, good idea to have some way to
stub out the pipes so you can turn water back on, if something major happens
and you have to call in a pro. Hopefully house is new enough to have copper
or plastic feeds- those are a lot easier to deal with than galv iron. Nipple
from (usually bronze) faucet casting is probably galv iron, and if threads
are cut too deep, they love to tear off flush in the bronze. In that case
(been there, done that) you get to try to grab the remaining threads with
pliers and chase them out, sometimes after inside-cutting with a hacksaw
blade to weaken them. Royal PITA. As long as the bronze casting isn't TOO
chewed up after that, a fresh nipple and lotsa teflon tape will usually put
you right back in business.

We won't talk about how wall is probably rotted out due to long-term slow
leak before you bought the place- that would just depress you. :^/

aem sends....

"ameijers" wrote in message ...

Some words of painfully learned advice- shut off house water first, and have
a plan of attack if the pipe doesn't come out clean. Like figure out what
you will do if it busts off in wall behind tile. Hopefully, wet wall backs
up to a closet or something, and you can easily cut an access panel into the
back, and just put masonite over it later for future access. Either have the
spare parts on hand (they are pretty cheap), or do the work when the supply
place is open.

I vote twice for AEM's idea, I've been there and done that once too
often as well. You have no idea how fast a little tiny drip can
completely destroy a wall until you finally repair that "small" drip.
Start this job early on a morning when the store is open so you can
buy supplies. Make sure you buy EVERYTHING you need. The first job
might be to install shutoff valves so at least you can get some water
elsewhere in the house if this job turns out to go overnight.

While I have your ear, let me recommend MAPP gas with an instant-on
gizmo instead of propane. And do buy the teflon fire protection
blanket if it's available. Get in fast, use a mirror if you can't have
free access and practice a few joints first so you can get up some
speed. You really don't want to linger when there's a wooden wall
waiting to catch fire.


We won't talk about how wall is probably rotted out due to long-term slow
leak before you bought the place- that would just depress you. :^/

aem sends....