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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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On Sun, 30 Aug 2020 13:22:20 +0100, John Rumm
wrote: On 30/08/2020 10:49, T i m wrote: Adrian was concerned about safety and we all know that the simpler a solution the lower the chance of failure (MTBF). The way one normally deals with safety critical software systems, is by working very hard to avoid any of the software being safety critical in the first place. Oh, agreed, however, a simple firmware based system might be inherently 'safer' than an OS / PC based system in the first place. Typically this is done with hardware interlocks, since they can usually be rigorously "proven" much more easily. Yup, or like having thermal fuses in on the extruders and heated beds of our 3D printers. ;-) So for example with a kiln, you could have a max temperature sensors that is hardwired into your safety relay/contactor, so should the temp ever not be indicated as safe by all the sensors it trips out power to the heaters. (software can obviously finesse that and log and report the event etc) Understood. Given the code for an Arduino is held in NV RAM or prom/ whatever, I would see it as less vulnerable to corruption than a fully 'live', re/writeable OS sitting on any form of PC. I'm assuming it would be easy to include an electronic watchdog timer on both an RPi and Arduino but nothing (outside of external protection, as you highlight) would work against a shorted heater driver / relay. [1] Cheers, T i m [1] Along those lines I've dug out a Playstation PSU I bought a while ago (recommended by someone here, Theo possibly?) that I'm looking to replace the current frame PSU I have in the 3D printer because it has a built in ATX type low lever 'Enable' function that could be driven by the controlling PC / RPi and so add *another* level of protection. 'If extruder / bed go over x or y DegC then cut power to printer'. (Where the values are ideally below the levels of the thermal fuses but above the peak printing temperatures). ;-) |
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