I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend to
use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace the
wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

https://imgur.com/BXRr3bd

I would say you will get away with filling that after applying hardener. As for the sill yes you can get a sill that is moulded as one for the bottom member of the frame and a separate type known as a loose sill and yes it will extend to the inside. At a guess because there seems some cracking of the paint where the sill meets the frame I would say yours is a loose sill but you can always have a poke around to verify that.

Richard

On 09/05/2020 11:56, ss wrote:
I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend to
use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace the
wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

https://imgur.com/BXRr3bd
No you are OK. scrape it out to good wood, fill with car body filler and
paint


--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 09/05/2020 12:55, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I would say you will get away with filling that after applying hardener. As for the sill yes you can get a sill that is moulded as one for the bottom member of the frame and a separate type known as a loose sill and yes it will extend to the inside. At a guess because there seems some cracking of the paint where the sill meets the frame I would say yours is a loose sill but you can always have a poke around to verify that.

Richard

The cracking of paint is where there is 3 layers.
The bottom layer is a stone sill.
Then there is the wooden part where it is rotted.
And between the 2 is like a putty type substance.

On 09/05/2020 11:56, ss wrote:
I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend to
use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace the
wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

https://imgur.com/BXRr3bd

Judging by the photo just fill with 2 part wood filler or 2 part car
body filler (whichever you can get the cheapest).

What I've done in the past with a much bigger area of damage is to cut
out as much rot as passible, treat with wet wood rot hardener and find a
piece of decent scrap wood that fills 2/3 of the hole and treat that as
well. Fill the back of the hole with 2 part filler, hammer the scrap
wood into the filler and then fill the rest of the hole covering the
wooden fillet. The scrap wood saves having to use too much 2 part
filler. Repair like this lasted me 5+ years before the windows were
replaced with UPVC.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In article ,
ss wrote:
I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend to
use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Which should last as long as the new paint. Not any longer than filling it
with cement. ;-)

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace the
wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

I've replaced the entire sill on a sash window without removing the frame.

--
*Frustration is trying to find your glasses without your glasses.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/05/2020 13:20, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/05/2020 11:56, ss wrote:
I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend
to use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace
the wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

https://imgur.com/BXRr3bd
No you are OK. scrape it out to good wood, fill with car body filler and
paint



Be brutal. Get all the soft and/or rotten timber out and flood it
with clear cuprinol. Leave for 7 days for the cuprinol to soak in
and dry before making any repairs.

Best done in hot, dry weather, like we had through most of April.

On Sunday, 10 May 2020 12:39:39 UTC+1, Andrew wrote:
On 09/05/2020 13:20, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/05/2020 11:56, ss wrote:

I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached).
I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend
to use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace
the wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the
interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

https://imgur.com/BXRr3bd
No you are OK. scrape it out to good wood, fill with car body filler and
paint



Be brutal. Get all the soft and/or rotten timber out and flood it
with clear cuprinol. Leave for 7 days for the cuprinol to soak in
and dry before making any repairs.

Best done in hot, dry weather, like we had through most of April.

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.


NT

On 10/05/2020 18:52, wrote:

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.



Ronseal wet rot wood hardener is much more effective and works within
the hour


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m Wrote in message:
On 10/05/2020 18:52, wrote:

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.



Ronseal wet rot wood hardener is much more effective and works within
the hour



*Any* wet rot wood hardener.

The quick ones are all styrene monomer.
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
Jimk wrote:
alan_m Wrote in message:
On 10/05/2020 18:52, wrote:

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.



Ronseal wet rot wood hardener is much more effective and works within
the hour



*Any* wet rot wood hardener.

The quick ones are all styrene monomer.

Has anyone found they provide a long lasting repair?

My theory is if you have 'cheap' wood that is prone to rot and the rot has
started, fixing a bit of it doesn't stop it happening in short order
elsewhere.

--
*The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Jimk wrote:
alan_m Wrote in message:
On 10/05/2020 18:52, wrote:

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.



Ronseal wet rot wood hardener is much more effective and works within
the hour



*Any* wet rot wood hardener.

The quick ones are all styrene monomer.

Has anyone found they provide a long lasting repair?

My theory is if you have 'cheap' wood that is prone to rot and the rot has
started, fixing a bit of it doesn't stop it happening in short order
elsewhere.

I have a window where the sill started to go about 6 or 7 years ago, I cut
out the bad bit, used wood hardener and did what I thought was a decent
repair. The rest of the sill has now decided to give up, so I'm having a
new window fitted. The original was early 1970s Magnet. (before we bought
the house)

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

In article ,
charles wrote:
My theory is if you have 'cheap' wood that is prone to rot and the rot has
started, fixing a bit of it doesn't stop it happening in short order
elsewhere.

I have a window where the sill started to go about 6 or 7 years ago, I cut
out the bad bit, used wood hardener and did what I thought was a decent
repair. The rest of the sill has now decided to give up, so I'm having a
new window fitted. The original was early 1970s Magnet. (before we bought
the house)

Exactly what I found. So if just wanting a repair to extend the life for a
short while, any old filler is likely to work well enough. Wood hardener
and two part filler if the common brand cost rather a lot.

--
*Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 11/05/2020 12:25, charles wrote:
I have a window where the sill started to go about 6 or 7 years ago, I cut
out the bad bit, used wood hardener and did what I thought was a decent
repair. The rest of the sill has now decided to give up, so I'm having a
new window fitted. The original was early 1970s Magnet. (before we bought
the house)

This repair is on an added porch from a few years back, I reckon cheap
wood but as approaching 70 and maybe only 10 years life left I can maybe
manage to prolong the frames so I dont have to replace it and leave it
to someone else to do. :-)