On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 13:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John wrote:

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 13:00:25 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 17:01:51 -0000 (UTC), John wrote:

Not a very good one for a 68Ah battery apparently.

5 weeks = 840 hrs

68 / 840 = 0.28 A or less than 4 Watts.

OK a very rough guide but shows that even a low drain will *completely*
flatten a moderate capacity battery in the time scale in question.


Yes, not unreasable I suppose, considering all the bits and pieces
connected.....Got the battery in the house now charging, using a 19v x 4A
laptop PSU and a 55w Headlight bulb in series, the charging current
dropped from 3.6 amps to 2.8 amps fairly quickly and seems to be staying
there. I will give it while and then put in another series headamp bulb in
to reduce the current to ~ 1.4 amps. I should then be able to leave it
over night adjacent to a small open window.

Having been told how unsuitable a laptop PSU would be, without the
mods you have implemented or similar, I've just bought one of these
this morning:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/auto-xs-car-b...90030347442700

for £9.99.

My 2010 Focus, which has been unused for a few weeks now, was
registering 1 bar and I've left it on trickle (0.8amp) so in the past
two hours it has gone up to 2 bar. (I think 5 = max).

I didn't try turning the car over so no idea if I was flat flat or
just low or the Aldi device lies.

3yr guarantee as well.

--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 12:46:18 GMT, lid (AnthonyL)
wrote:

snip

Having been told how unsuitable a laptop PSU would be, without the
mods you have implemented or similar, I've just bought one of these
this morning:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/auto-xs-car-b...90030347442700

for £9.99.

That's better (I have a few of them). ;-)

My 2010 Focus, which has been unused for a few weeks now, was
registering 1 bar and I've left it on trickle (0.8amp) so in the past
two hours it has gone up to 2 bar. (I think 5 = max).

Given that it's an 'Intelligent / Automatic' charger and you don't
know how flat the battery currently is (other than after you have put
the charger on), I'd put it into full charge mode as that's still not
a lot of current from those chargers.

I didn't try turning the car over so no idea if I was flat flat or
just low or the Aldi device lies.

Best to put it on full in any case.

3yr guarantee as well.

Result.

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
AnthonyL wrote:
Having been told how unsuitable a laptop PSU would be, without the
mods you have implemented or similar, I've just bought one of these
this morning:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/auto-xs-car-b...90030347442700

for £9.99.

Now NLA. If it's like the similar Lidl one, the designs changes slightly
with each model. Mainly looks. It will be back at £14. ;-)

My 2010 Focus, which has been unused for a few weeks now, was
registering 1 bar and I've left it on trickle (0.8amp) so in the past
two hours it has gone up to 2 bar. (I think 5 = max).

Just switch it to full - only about 4 amps or so. It will switch
automatically to 'trickle' when full.

I didn't try turning the car over so no idea if I was flat flat or
just low or the Aldi device lies.

3yr guarantee as well.

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 10:00:06 AM UTC+1, John wrote:
....before it becomes unusable. It was flat last weekend after 5 weeks
self isolation. I bought a compact booster and started it on thursday, ran
it for about 20 minutes, but today (Saturday morning) it is flat again.
It's a relatively new car 2019 Golf R.

A knackered lead acid battery will say 13 volts when charged,
but as soon as you turn on a light
it will dip to 10.5 volts if one cell is broken,
or 9 volts if 2 are dead

[g]

On 19/04/2020 12:59, Pancho wrote:
On 19/04/2020 00:37, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* Pancho wrote:
As you an Dave question the reading I will check again tomorrow. I don't
think I have an alarm so I guess the only real requirement is the door
lock receiver. I'm not sure how much power that requires.

Not just the receiver. The device that provides the timed pulse to
open or
lock the doors will be live too. Then you have things like the radio or
whatever memory. Even the clock.

I've not known any modern car where it is as low as 2 mA.

OK I just tested again.

Procedu

Undid black wire from battery.
Tightened black wire on to ammeter probe.
Connected ammeter com probe to battery neg terminal (with elastic band)
Used Amp setting on multimeter.

Glad that I used a clamp meter when the AA man put my van battery on
charge. 59A at first and down to 15A after 15-20 minutes.


--
Adam