Been getting on with work on my parents hose which they persuaded me to buy.

Heating system is standard single zone rads to a Baxi 105HE Condensing
Combi boiler.

Checking out its all working - found the wall mounted Honeywell
thermostat had no effect on boiler, the system in fact being controlled
by the timer control on boiler and the heating temp dial on boiler.


The system is under service contract with British Gas (who did annual
service & safety check in Jan) so called them.
They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago. Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it
doesn't work - no answer on that.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.

On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
Been getting on with work on my parents hose which they persuaded me to
buy.

Heating system is standard single zone rads to a Baxi 105HE Condensing
Combi boiler.

Checking out its all working - found the wall mounted Honeywell
thermostat had no effect on boiler, the system in fact being controlled
by the timer control on boiler and the heating temp dial on boiler.


The system is under service contract with British GasÂ* (who did annual
service & safety check in Jan)Â*Â* so called them.
They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago.Â* Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it
doesn't work - no answer on that.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.




I fitted a Salus (check spelling) one for my eldest. It seems to do the
job. From memory, it was about £35.

The Hive one will work in 'dumb' mode, ie without the internet- just buy
one without the hub. However, it is more expensive. Against that, if you
have standard controller backplate, it is easy to fit.

The Salus one I fitted was a dedicated one for the system (a straight
plug in more or less) but they do generic ones, I can't comment on
fitting these.

Google for a salus st620rf.

Wire in the receiver onto the boiler and stick some batteries in the remote control unit.

You will need to remove the timer in the boiler as the st620rf allows you to have different temperatures during the day as it's a timer and flexible thermostat in one unit

And all your rads must have thermostatic valves except for one to act as a heat overrun bypass, usually the one in the same room as the remote control.

On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
Been getting on with work on my parents hose which they persuaded me to
buy.

Heating system is standard single zone rads to a Baxi 105HE Condensing
Combi boiler.

Checking out its all working - found the wall mounted Honeywell
thermostat had no effect on boiler, the system in fact being controlled
by the timer control on boiler and the heating temp dial on boiler.


The system is under service contract with British GasÂ* (who did annual
service & safety check in Jan)Â*Â* so called them.
They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago.Â* Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it
doesn't work - no answer on that.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.



just watch when I fitted on it was on the same frequency as a neighbour
and it went on and off at weird times....had to change it...

On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
Been getting on with work on my parents hose which they persuaded me to
buy.

Heating system is standard single zone rads to a Baxi 105HE Condensing
Combi boiler.

Checking out its all working - found the wall mounted Honeywell
thermostat had no effect on boiler, the system in fact being controlled
by the timer control on boiler and the heating temp dial on boiler.


The system is under service contract with British GasÂ* (who did annual
service & safety check in Jan)Â*Â* so called them.
They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago.Â* Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it
doesn't work - no answer on that.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.

Yes I fitted a single one. Its basically just a remote stat. Has
temperature set and thats it.

http://www.tmejackson.co.uk/manuals/...atash eet.pdf


MOSTLY works tho sometimes flat batteries or power cuts cause it to lose
its marbles and it needs re-pairing

Its obsolete now but here's one on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunvic-Tl...-/193316265321
The modern equivalent seems to be this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunvic-ESta.../dp/B07BZLLPQ8

Change batteries once a year


British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.


Its very simple. essentially the mains power receiver ends up as a tow
wire relay contact. Stick that in series with your CH call for heat from
your timer.

mount everything in suitable places, follow the manual to set it up and
forget about it.

IJW.


It
Just
Works



--
€œThe ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.€�

Herbert Spencer

On Sat, 7 Mar 2020 16:11:39 +0000, rick wrote:

They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago. Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it
doesn't work - no answer on that.

I think i'd be looking for a refund of that years service contract
fee.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2
options. 1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a
simple one?, don't need programming options as there is a programmer
timer on the boiler.

If going to fit a thermostat I'd fit a programmable one they don't
duplicate the pure on/off time based programmer on the boiler. They
enable different temperatures based on time of day and day of week.
Being able to set a day time temp lower (when people are home and
active) than the evening (couch potato time) a bit over having just a
single temp all day/evening.

Beware of "5+2 day" ones that may only have a temperature pattern for
5 days (M-F) and two days (S & S). 7 day ones enable a different
temperature pattern each day of the week.

British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it
myself.

As well as the refund get 'em to bring it up to spec for no charge.
Do you really need the service contract? Threaten to not renew
without refund and correctional work done for no charge.

--
Cheers
Dave.

And all your rads must have
thermostatic valves

"must" implies some legal compulsion AFAIK there is none.

TRVs are a common way of creating room sized zones, but they are
the only, or most efficient way.
--

%Profound_observation%


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Cobolt Talking one perhaps? Interesting variation.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"rick" wrote in message
...
Been getting on with work on my parents hose which they persuaded me to
buy.

Heating system is standard single zone rads to a Baxi 105HE Condensing
Combi boiler.

Checking out its all working - found the wall mounted Honeywell thermostat
had no effect on boiler, the system in fact being controlled by the timer
control on boiler and the heating temp dial on boiler.


The system is under service contract with British Gas (who did annual
service & safety check in Jan) so called them.
They explained that separate thermostats are mandatory since 1982 so if
faulty it would have to be replaced.

On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire link
across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it must
have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5 years
ago. Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler (simple
bi-metal type)

I did ask how it passed the annual boiler & controls service if it doesn't
work - no answer on that.

It would not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2
options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it
myself.

The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

Richard

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.

Mike Clarke wrote:

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have
come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat
and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact
a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having
equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the
bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in
the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as
mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from
a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.

For eight months of the year I can be pretty confident that it will be
never more than ten minutes that the CH will not be required.[1] So
this is a non-issue. Apart from the fact that if one has a combi
boiler the regulations do not forbid you to have the same boiler cycling
as needed 24/7 to maintain the availability of hot water. I have no use
for a room thermostat to supplement the TRVs. When I had one I simply
turned it to 35 degrees until I go round to disconnecting it.

[1] There are insurmountable obstacles (aesthetic mainly) to insulating
the house properly.

--

Roger Hayter

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.

Mike that may well be the case now but certainly in the 80/90s when I first came across this system it was an option. I know my friend did have a cylinder stat and twin valves and do not recall him complaining of the boiler short cycling. I seem to remember he had one radiator with standard valves to act as a bypass.

Richard

Roger Hayter wrote:
Mike Clarke wrote:

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have
come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat
and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact
a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having
equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the
bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in
the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as
mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from
a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.

For eight months of the year I can be pretty confident that it will be
never more than ten minutes that the CH will not be required.[1] So
this is a non-issue. Apart from the fact that if one has a combi
boiler the regulations do not forbid you to have the same boiler cycling
as needed 24/7 to maintain the availability of hot water. I have no use
for a room thermostat to supplement the TRVs. When I had one I simply
turned it to 35 degrees until I go round to disconnecting it.

[1] There are insurmountable obstacles (aesthetic mainly) to insulating
the house properly.


10 mins? That is ( almost) unbelievable. On of the interesting things the
Hive application allows you to see is the temperature profile against time-
obviously of where the sensor is but they can be unclipped (assuming youve
clipped it to a wall) and moved from room to room.

One of the interesting things which came to light was just how slowly our
house cools down once the heating is turned off. True it is ( relatively)
modern, has cavity insulation, good loft insulation, double glazing etc,
but I was still surprised.

A previous house was initially cold, or more exactly felt cold. Some time
fixing draft excluder made a huge difference. It wasnt double glazed.

On 08/03/2020 10:13, Tricky Dicky wrote:

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.

Mike that may well be the case now but certainly in the 80/90s when I first came across this system it was an option. I know my friend did have a cylinder stat and twin valves and do not recall him complaining of the boiler short cycling. I seem to remember he had one radiator with standard valves to act as a bypass.


I believe that it was around 2010 that Part L banned such installs.


--
Adam

On 07/03/2020 16:55, wrote:
Google for a salus st620rf.

Wire in the receiver onto the boiler and stick some batteries in the remote control unit.

You will need to remove the timer in the boiler as the st620rf allows you to have different temperatures during the day as it's a timer and flexible thermostat in one unit

And all your rads must have thermostatic valves except for one to act as a heat overrun bypass, usually the one in the same room as the remote control.


I check the TRVs

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

Richard


TRVs on all rads
That is why I think they did not wire in the wall stat.
According to British Gas, even if TRVs fitted there should still be
separate thermostat to prevent cycling of boiler when no zones calling
for heat.

On 08/03/2020 09:54, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I
have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room
stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs
in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the
same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats
except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the
kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the
OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a
redundant item from a previous setup.

With 'smart' TRVs which ensure that the boiler only fires up if there's
a call for heat that would be OK but I don't think traditional 'dumb'
TRVs satisfy Building Regs requirement because the boiler will keep
cycling to maintain the heating water temperature when not required.


They are simple dumb TRVs

On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04

Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:55:38 +0000, rick
wrote:

On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple one?,
don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on the
boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it myself.

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04

Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.


Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like
something smarter without overdoing it.

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless signal
as a way to go as well.

Thanks



--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:50:56 +0000, rick
wrote:

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

Richard


TRVs on all rads
That is why I think they did not wire in the wall stat.
According to British Gas, even if TRVs fitted there should still be
separate thermostat to prevent cycling of boiler when no zones calling
for heat.

What cycling of the boiler?


--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like
something smarter without overdoing it.

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless signal
as a way to go as well.

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart systems are pretty much the same. The basic system consists of the wireless thermostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler and a hub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to the receiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or over the internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to be placed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise the hub but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and the receiver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is situated in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the thermostat that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and taken to different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has not failed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block construction.

Richard

On 11/03/2020 12:10, AnthonyL wrote:
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:50:56 +0000, rick
wrote:

On 08/03/2020 09:04, Tricky Dicky wrote:
The OP did not mention if the heating system had TRVs throughout. I have come across systems where all there was a programmer with no room stat and all the temperature control was through the individual TRVs in fact a friend of mine had that exact system. I have virtually the same having equipped all my radiators with Hive smart thermostats except for the bathroom which is the official system bypass and the kickspace heater in the kitchen which has its own thermostat. If the OP has a system as mentioned above the unwired room stat may just be a redundant item from a previous setup.

Richard


TRVs on all rads
That is why I think they did not wire in the wall stat.
According to British Gas, even if TRVs fitted there should still be
separate thermostat to prevent cycling of boiler when no zones calling
for heat.

What cycling of the boiler?


if all trvs shut down because the temperature has reached the required
level, the boiler just spends its time short cycling - heating up the
pipes and then switching off again. While the pump runs all the time
against an almost blocked circuit


--
Its easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.
Mark Twain

In article ,
rick wrote:
On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago. Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

Have a look under surrounding floorboards etc to see if you can locate the
cable?

--
*Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:20:51 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like=20
something smarter without overdoing it.=20

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.=20

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless signal=20
as a way to go as well.=20

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart systems=
are pretty much the same. The basic system consists of the wireless therm=
ostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler and a h=
ub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to the rec=
eiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or over th=
e internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to be plac=
ed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise the hub =
but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and the rece=
iver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is situate=
d in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the thermosta=
t that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and taken t=
o different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has not fail=
ed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block construction.


Thanks. Our router is in the middle of the main house but not the
extensions. If I take a laptop/smartphone to where the boiler is I
lose connectivity. The extension is flat roofed into the bungalow and
getting wires from one to the other is not easy. The bungalow is
fully carpeted and the attic fully floorboarded. Might have to resort
to a powerlink device.

I have one in my study (another extension) which works - most of the
time.

--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

On 12/03/2020 12:27, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:20:51 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like=20
something smarter without overdoing it.=20

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.=20

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless signal=20
as a way to go as well.=20

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart systems=
are pretty much the same. The basic system consists of the wireless therm=
ostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler and a h=
ub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to the rec=
eiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or over th=
e internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to be plac=
ed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise the hub =
but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and the rece=
iver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is situate=
d in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the thermosta=
t that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and taken t=
o different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has not fail=
ed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block construction.


Thanks. Our router is in the middle of the main house but not the
extensions. If I take a laptop/smartphone to where the boiler is I
lose connectivity. The extension is flat roofed into the bungalow and
getting wires from one to the other is not easy. The bungalow is
fully carpeted and the attic fully floorboarded. Might have to resort
to a powerlink device.

I have one in my study (another extension) which works - most of the
time.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
On 12/03/2020 12:27, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:20:51 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would
like=20
something smarter without overdoing it.=20

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.=20

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless
signal=20
as a way to go as well.=20

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart
systems=
are pretty much the same. The basic system consists of the wireless
therm=
ostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler and
a h=
ub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to the
rec=
eiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or over
th=
e internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to be
plac=
ed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise the
hub =
but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and the
rece=
iver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is
situate=
d in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the
thermosta=
t that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and
taken t=
o different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has not
fail=
ed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block
construction.


Thanks. Our router is in the middle of the main house but not the
extensions. If I take a laptop/smartphone to where the boiler is I
lose connectivity. The extension is flat roofed into the bungalow and
getting wires from one to the other is not easy. The bungalow is
fully carpeted and the attic fully floorboarded. Might have to resort
to a powerlink device.

I have one in my study (another extension) which works - most of the
time.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Wish you wouldnt fart in here. You must be onto the beans in your static
hovel.

On Fri, 13 Mar 2020 06:37:40 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Wish you wouldn¢t fart in here. You must be onto the beans in your static
hovel.

Wish (and I'm not the only one) you'd swallow your Nembutal finally, you
useless 86-year-old pest!

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 86-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On 12/03/2020 19:37, Rod Speed wrote:


"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
On 12/03/2020 12:27, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:20:51 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

Please update.Â* I appear to have the same setup as you and would
like=20
something smarter without overdoing it.=20

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.=20

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless
signal=20
as a way to go as well.=20

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart
systems=
are pretty much the same. The basic system consists ofÂ* the wireless
therm=
ostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler
and a h=
ub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to
the rec=
eiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or
over th=
e internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to
be plac=
ed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise
the hub =
but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and
the rece=
iver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is
situate=
d in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the
thermosta=
t that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and
taken t=
o different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has
not fail=
ed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block
construction.


Thanks.Â* Our router is in the middle of the main house but not the
extensions.Â* If I take a laptop/smartphone to where the boiler is I
lose connectivity.Â* The extension is flat roofed into the bungalow and
getting wires from one to the other is not easy.Â* The bungalow is
fully carpeted and the attic fully floorboarded.Â* Might have to resort
to a powerlink device.

I have one in my study (another extension) which works - most of the
time.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo


Wish you wouldnt fart in here. You must be onto the beans in your
static hovel.
got plenty of tins of beans...they are the new currency ....

"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
On 12/03/2020 19:37, Rod Speed wrote:


"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
On 12/03/2020 12:27, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:20:51 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would
like=20
something smarter without overdoing it.=20

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.=20

Our boiler is in a back utility room extensions so the wireless
signal=20
as a way to go as well.=20

I can only speak for the Hive system but should imagine other smart
systems=
are pretty much the same. The basic system consists of the wireless
therm=
ostat that communicates with a receiver that is wired to the boiler
and a h=
ub connected with CAT5 to the router and communicates wirelessly to
the rec=
eiver. If you do not intend to use the app to control the system or
over th=
e internet then the hub is not required. The receiver only needs to be
plac=
ed where it will receive a signal from the thermostat and likewise the
hub =
but needs wiring back to the boiler.

In our instance the router is in the hallway and so is the hub and the
rece=
iver, the receiver is wired through the wall to the boiler which is
situate=
d in an airing cupboard in a bathroom off the hallway. As for the
thermosta=
t that can be fixed permanently to a wall or mounted on a stand and
taken t=
o different rooms. I have tried it in various locations and it has not
fail=
ed to communicate despite all internal walls being of block
construction.


Thanks. Our router is in the middle of the main house but not the
extensions. If I take a laptop/smartphone to where the boiler is I
lose connectivity. The extension is flat roofed into the bungalow and
getting wires from one to the other is not easy. The bungalow is
fully carpeted and the attic fully floorboarded. Might have to resort
to a powerlink device.

I have one in my study (another extension) which works - most of the
time.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Wish you wouldnt fart in here. You must be onto the beans in your static
hovel.

got plenty of tins of beans...they are the new currency ....

Not here, its dunny rolls now with all you ****ty people around.

On Fri, 13 Mar 2020 20:20:13 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


got plenty of tins of beans...they are the new currency ....

Not here, its dunny rolls now with all you ****ty people around.

Let's face it, BOTH of you are rather ****ty senile assholes, just like true
assholes should be!

--
Marland answering senile Rodent's statement, "I don't leak":
"That¢s because so much **** and ****e emanates from your gob that there is
nothing left to exit normally, your arsehole has clammed shut through disuse
and the end of prick is only clear because you are such a ******."
Message-ID:

On 10/03/2020 19:55, rick wrote:
On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
Â*not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple
one?, don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on
the boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it
myself.

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04


Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.




Took mins to fit .... 4 push fit connectors- direct replacement for
existing mechanical timer.
Put batteries in remote thermostat .... sync'd and worked instantly
....... there were comprehensive instructions about Wireless Pairing -
not needed.

Longest part of the job was screwing Thermostat to the wall.

Thermostat is in hallway so removed the TRV head off the rad in the hall
way, assume that makes senses ... otherwise rad could be shutting off
early preventing Thermostat getting to temp.

On 11/03/2020 12:09, AnthonyL wrote:
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:55:38 +0000, rick

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04

Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.


Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like
something smarter without overdoing it.

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.

Isolate boiler electrically .... 2 screws to open front of boiler,
hinged panel folds down, 2 screw hold in plastic cover over mech timer.
Remove them, lift off plastic lid ...timer lifts out .... swap over
connections (push fit) and screw it back together.
All in less than 5 mins.

On 11/03/2020 15:44, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
rick wrote:
On inspection they found it was not wired in the boiler (yellow wire
link across where stat would be wired) ... and no cable there, assume it
must have been 'cut out' when previous non-combi boiler was replaced 5
years ago. Honeywell stat certainly used to work with old boiler
(simple bi-metal type)

Have a look under surrounding floorboards etc to see if you can locate the
cable?


The cable will be buried in wall behind new tiles in kitchen .....
somewhere.

Avoid Salus. Cheap, nasty with a difficult to understand user interface. TRy EPH. Simple to use and well priced. The EPH Comibipack is wireless "and" Opentherm modulating the boilers burner to the room temperature - where Opentherm is fitted on a boiler of course. It can be used as a simple stat, or a timer as well. Very well priced on the web. Fit one and it conforms to Boiler Plus requirements.

On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 18:57:20 +0000, rick
wrote:

On 11/03/2020 12:09, AnthonyL wrote:
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:55:38 +0000, rick

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04

Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.


Please update. I appear to have the same setup as you and would like
something smarter without overdoing it.

In particular how easy or otherwise to remove the timer mechanism.

Isolate boiler electrically .... 2 screws to open front of boiler,
hinged panel folds down, 2 screw hold in plastic cover over mech timer.
Remove them, lift off plastic lid ...timer lifts out .... swap over
connections (push fit) and screw it back together.
All in less than 5 mins.


Thanks. Just need to think about the wireless connecton.

--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 18:54:10 +0000, rick
wrote:

On 10/03/2020 19:55, rick wrote:
On 07/03/2020 16:11, rick wrote:
Â*not be easy or neat to run in new cables .... so I have 2 options.

1. Fit a basic Remote wireless thermostat-anybody know of a simple
one?, don't need programming options as there is a programmer timer on
the boiler.
British gas are also preparing a quote, for this - though may do it
myself.

Update I purchased:

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co...l?search=04D04


Receiver is direct replacement for mechanical timer, so should be easy
install.




Took mins to fit .... 4 push fit connectors- direct replacement for
existing mechanical timer.
Put batteries in remote thermostat .... sync'd and worked instantly
...... there were comprehensive instructions about Wireless Pairing -
not needed.

Longest part of the job was screwing Thermostat to the wall.

Thermostat is in hallway so removed the TRV head off the rad in the hall
way, assume that makes senses ... otherwise rad could be shutting off
early preventing Thermostat getting to temp.

Our hall radiator is the one that doesn't have a TRV. One less job.

--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

In article ,
rick wrote:
Thermostat is in hallway so removed the TRV head off the rad in the hall
way, assume that makes senses ... otherwise rad could be shutting off
early preventing Thermostat getting to temp.

Never quite understood why people put them there. The one part of the
house you only ever pass through. And subject to draughts etc when the
front door is opened.

--
*'Progress' and 'Change' are not synonyms.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.