Have a cast brass number plate for outside a house.
Type where edge and numbers are raised, and the background is recessed
by around 5mm.

Initially raised letters and borders were polished brass, and the
background gloss black.

Used a Gel paint remover - it removed all the old black paint.
Polished up the raised surfaces, cleaned up resat and gave the
background a coat of Hammerite - Smooth Black
Looked neat .. left it 48 Hrs to dry fully ..... then to protect the
polished brass gave it a coast of clear enamel (spray)

It reacted with Hammerite and the surface is now all wrinkled.

Need to start again ..... 2 questions.

#1 how do I best remove Hammerite (& clear coat) - will gel paint
removers work

#2 how to clear coat it again once repainted
Do I use something else ... do I need to bake the item at a particular
temp to accelerate cure ? before applying clear coat.

rick wrote:
Have a cast brass number plate for outside a house.
Type where edge and numbers are raised, and the background is recessed
by around 5mm.

Initially raised letters and borders were polished brass, and the
background gloss black.

Used a Gel paint remover - it removed all the old black paint.
Polished up the raised surfaces, cleaned up resat and gave the
background a coat of Hammerite - Smooth Black
Looked neat .. left it 48 Hrs to dry fully ..... then to protect the
polished brass gave it a coast of clear enamel (spray)

It reacted with Hammerite and the surface is now all wrinkled.

Need to start again ..... 2 questions.

#1 how do I best remove Hammerite (& clear coat) - will gel paint
removers work

#2 how to clear coat it again once repainted
Do I use something else ... do I need to bake the item at a particular
temp to accelerate cure ? before applying clear coat.


Id try acetone. It will ( almost certainly) remove the clear coat. I
suspect also the Hammerite.

Ive €˜baked Hammerite in a oven I heated to the lowest it would go (120 C
i think) and place the work in there, oven off, door ajar. It seemed to
work- I wanted a tough finish on a brackets which where going to be
exposed.

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Also, brass contains Zinc which is a s*d to paint. You MAY want to research
a suitable primer compatible with Hammerite.

On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote:

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Or clear coat everything first, let dry completely, then add the Hammerite.

It's probably the "faster" solvents in the clearcoat that attack the Hammerite,
and those will dry off.


Thomas Prufer

That would be my suggestion as well, it should also stop issues of the paint
being attacked by the brass as well.
Brian

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"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote:

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Or clear coat everything first, let dry completely, then add the
Hammerite.

It's probably the "faster" solvents in the clearcoat that attack the
Hammerite,
and those will dry off.


Thomas Prufer

On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay
wrote:

rick wrote:
Have a cast brass number plate for outside a house.
Type where edge and numbers are raised, and the background is recessed
by around 5mm.

Initially raised letters and borders were polished brass, and the
background gloss black.

Used a Gel paint remover - it removed all the old black paint.
Polished up the raised surfaces, cleaned up resat and gave the
background a coat of Hammerite - Smooth Black
Looked neat .. left it 48 Hrs to dry fully ..... then to protect the
polished brass gave it a coast of clear enamel (spray)

It reacted with Hammerite and the surface is now all wrinkled.

Need to start again ..... 2 questions.

#1 how do I best remove Hammerite (& clear coat) - will gel paint
removers work

#2 how to clear coat it again once repainted
Do I use something else ... do I need to bake the item at a particular
temp to accelerate cure ? before applying clear coat.


I’d try acetone. It will ( almost certainly) remove the clear coat. I
suspect also the Hammerite.

I’ve ‘baked’ Hammerite in a oven I heated to the lowest it would go (120 C
i think) and place the work in there, oven off, door ajar. It seemed to
work- I wanted a tough finish on a brackets which where going to be
exposed.

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Also, brass contains Zinc which is a s*d to paint. You MAY want to research
a suitable primer compatible with Hammerite.


As the background is sunken, after applying the Hammerite you could
top up with sand, varnish the raised bits then brush out the sand?
--
Dave W

On Tuesday, 4 February 2020 18:32:15 UTC, Brian Reay wrote:
rick wrote:
Have a cast brass number plate for outside a house.
Type where edge and numbers are raised, and the background is recessed
by around 5mm.

Initially raised letters and borders were polished brass, and the
background gloss black.

Used a Gel paint remover - it removed all the old black paint.
Polished up the raised surfaces, cleaned up resat and gave the
background a coat of Hammerite - Smooth Black
Looked neat .. left it 48 Hrs to dry fully ..... then to protect the
polished brass gave it a coast of clear enamel (spray)

It reacted with Hammerite and the surface is now all wrinkled.

Need to start again ..... 2 questions.

#1 how do I best remove Hammerite (& clear coat) - will gel paint
removers work

#2 how to clear coat it again once repainted
Do I use something else ... do I need to bake the item at a particular
temp to accelerate cure ? before applying clear coat.


Id try acetone. It will ( almost certainly) remove the clear coat. I
suspect also the Hammerite.

Ive €˜baked Hammerite in a oven I heated to the lowest it would go (120 C
i think) and place the work in there, oven off, door ajar. It seemed to
work- I wanted a tough finish on a brackets which where going to be
exposed.

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Also, brass contains Zinc which is a s*d to paint. You MAY want to research
a suitable primer compatible with Hammerite.

The Hammerite is rubber based. I'd put the varnish on first.

On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 08:49:17 UTC, harry wrote:

The Hammerite is rubber based. I'd put the varnish on first.

The MSDS for brushable Hammerite says nothing about any relation to rubber.

The product description is: Styrenated oil modified alkyd containing organic, inorganic pigment, aliphatic and aromatic solvents.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/45976.pdf

I would have expected any rubber-based product to mention the fact in the MSDS due to the issues of latex allergy.

On 05/02/2020 09:55, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 08:49:17 UTC, harry wrote:

The Hammerite is rubber based. I'd put the varnish on first.

The MSDS for brushable Hammerite says nothing about any relation to
rubber.

The product description is: Styrenated oil modified alkyd containing
organic, inorganic pigment, aliphatic and aromatic solvents.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/45976.pdf

It is a cross linked cure on setting as it dries polymer formulation
that once fully cured is probably impervious to most solvents as far as
being dissolved again but it will swell up with organic solvents.

There is a warning to recoat inside the cure window when it will still
bond to itself or waiting until after allowing a full cure. Repainting
in the interim period tends to be disastrous with the under layer
deforming and swelling up through absorbing solvent from the next coat.
In cold weather you need to allow a lot more time for a full cure.

I would have expected any rubber-based product to mention the fact in
the MSDS due to the issues of latex allergy.
There may be a plasticiser in the mix but nothing like a rubber latex.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 04/02/2020 18:44, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote:

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Or clear coat everything first, let dry completely, then add the Hammerite.

It's probably the "faster" solvents in the clearcoat that attack the Hammerite,
and those will dry off.


Thomas Prufer



Not thought of that .... as long as Hammerite will paint smoothly on top
of it and not run off - it is a heavy paint.
Went to web site it states do not apply primers first, but once I clean
back off may try this.

On 04/02/2020 22:51, Dave W wrote:
On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay

As the background is sunken, after applying the Hammerite you could
top up with sand, varnish the raised bits then brush out the sand?



Neat idea.

On 05/02/2020 10:18, Martin Brown wrote:
On 05/02/2020 09:55, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 08:49:17 UTC, harryÂ* wrote:

The Hammerite is rubber based. I'd put the varnish on first.

The MSDS for brushable Hammerite says nothing about any relation to
rubber.

The product description is: Styrenated oil modified alkyd containing
organic, inorganic pigment, aliphatic and aromatic solvents.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/45976.pdf

It is a cross linked cure on setting as it dries polymer formulation
that once fully cured is probably impervious to most solvents as far as
being dissolved again but it will swell up with organic solvents.

There is a warning to recoat inside the cure window when it will still
bond to itself or waiting until after allowing a full cure. Repainting
in the interim period tends to be disastrous with the under layer
deforming and swelling up through absorbing solvent from the next coat.
In cold weather you need to allow a lot more time for a full cure.




Correct it says 'on the tin' recoat after 4 Hrs

I waited 48 Hrs ... and the clear coat certainly reacted with the Hammerite.
Going to be a right pain to sand down, as its all fiddly, with letters &
numbers. :-(
I may try media blasting

That is tosh. I painted a gate with a metal zinc stuff, and used Hammerite
over that and its been on for 20 years and is only now chipping due to some
rust underneath.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"rick" wrote in message
...
On 04/02/2020 18:44, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:32:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote:

Can you protect the Hammerite by masking? It is only the bare brass you
need to clear coat.

Or clear coat everything first, let dry completely, then add the
Hammerite.

It's probably the "faster" solvents in the clearcoat that attack the
Hammerite,
and those will dry off.


Thomas Prufer



Not thought of that .... as long as Hammerite will paint smoothly on top
of it and not run off - it is a heavy paint.
Went to web site it states do not apply primers first, but once I clean
back off may try this.

On 05/02/2020 12:44, rick wrote:
On 05/02/2020 10:18, Martin Brown wrote:
On 05/02/2020 09:55, polygonum_on_google wrote:

The product description is: Styrenated oil modified alkyd containing
organic, inorganic pigment, aliphatic and aromatic solvents.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/45976.pdf

It is a cross linked cure on setting as it dries polymer formulation
that once fully cured is probably impervious to most solvents as far
as being dissolved again but it will swell up with organic solvents.

There is a warning to recoat inside the cure window when it will still
bond to itself or waiting until after allowing a full cure. Repainting
in the interim period tends to be disastrous with the under layer
deforming and swelling up through absorbing solvent from the next
coat. In cold weather you need to allow a lot more time for a full cure.

Correct it says 'on the tin' recoat after 4 Hrs

It means recoatble with the same paint system though. Not with some
other solvent based paint. I can't find it on their website but the
original Hammerite formulation required about 2-3 weeks additional cure
time before it became more or less impervious to solvent attack.

If you didn't apply the second coat inside the right window of
opportunity 4hr-10hr then results were less than optimal. Working
outdoors sometimes the second coat had to be delayed due to weather.

The new formulation is somewhat more eco friendly but still very high
VOC and I think has slightly different characteristics. Towards the end
of my old oil tank's life it was pretty much held together by the stuff.

I waited 48 Hrs ... and the clear coat certainly reacted with the
Hammerite.
Going to be a right pain to sand down, as its all fiddly, with letters &
numbers.Â* :-(
I may try media blasting

You might get away with sanding it to remove the surface irregularities
and recoat. They advise testing any mixed paint/Hammerite combos first.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown