Basically you have to connect to the backplate, fix that to the wall,
then fit the unit onto the backplate. The terminals are rather peculiar.
It seems that you're expected to push 8mm of bared connector into a sort
of clip thing. Fair enough, except that the diameter of the bared bit of
wire is extremely critical. It's more than likely that the wire you've
used just drops out. Suppose you do get it to stay in, but then you want
to get it out? The pictogram suggests that you put a screwdriver to the
very fragile sliver of plastic that covers the terminal. As far as I can
figure out this just breaks the plastic off. Is it me?

Bill

On Sunday, 26 January 2020 02:27:10 UTC, williamwright wrote:
Basically you have to connect to the backplate, fix that to the wall,
then fit the unit onto the backplate. The terminals are rather peculiar.
It seems that you're expected to push 8mm of bared connector into a sort
of clip thing. Fair enough, except that the diameter of the bared bit of
wire is extremely critical. It's more than likely that the wire you've
used just drops out. Suppose you do get it to stay in, but then you want
to get it out? The pictogram suggests that you put a screwdriver to the
very fragile sliver of plastic that covers the terminal. As far as I can
figure out this just breaks the plastic off. Is it me?

Bill

No, if you hear the chime it's someone else.
I'm not familiar with it - can you solder them on?


NT

On 26/01/2020 04:30, wrote:
On Sunday, 26 January 2020 02:27:10 UTC, williamwright wrote:
Basically you have to connect to the backplate, fix that to the wall,
then fit the unit onto the backplate. The terminals are rather peculiar.
It seems that you're expected to push 8mm of bared connector into a sort
of clip thing. Fair enough, except that the diameter of the bared bit of
wire is extremely critical. It's more than likely that the wire you've
used just drops out. Suppose you do get it to stay in, but then you want
to get it out? The pictogram suggests that you put a screwdriver to the
very fragile sliver of plastic that covers the terminal. As far as I can
figure out this just breaks the plastic off. Is it me?

Bill

No, if you hear the chime it's someone else.
I'm not familiar with it - can you solder them on?


No, they're tiny and surrounded by plastic. And they have that shiny
finish that usually won't take solder. What a pity we can't have choc
block type terminals with screws. It's the one thing that spoils an
otherwise good product.

Bill

On 26/01/2020 02:27, williamwright wrote:
Basically you have to connect to the backplate, fix that to the wall,
then fit the unit onto the backplate. The terminals are rather peculiar.
It seems that you're expected to push 8mm of bared connector into a sort
of clip thing. Fair enough, except that the diameter of the bared bit of
wire is extremely critical. It's more than likely that the wire you've
used just drops out. Suppose you do get it to stay in, but then you want
to get it out? The pictogram suggests that you put a screwdriver to the
very fragile sliver of plastic that covers the terminal. As far as I can
figure out this just breaks the plastic off. Is it me?

Bill

Push-in fittings are getting common in lighting and seem reliable. No
current to speak of in a door chime, not really something you expect to
maintain. Wire diameter is not normally critical, it pushes past a flat
spring strip that is angled to stop it pulling out. Posh ones can be
released with a screwdriver, that should not be a destructive operation.
You need the right diameter screwdriver, "jewellers" screwdriver sets
are useful for this. Conventional ones are better than cross-point.