RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip your
house MCB or fuse again

On 13/12/2018 14:13, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip your
house MCB or fuse again

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then yes
that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED with
your multimeter.

On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then yes
that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED with
your multimeter.

After tracing continuity on both neutral and live wires as far back as
possible, ie from end to end, when I plugged in the power cable and put
both lives into com again. The light came on, but was not switchable, ie
it was permanently on and could only be switched of at the plug end

On 13/12/2018 14:24, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:13, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip
your house MCB or fuse again

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

You want neutral in from plug connected to neutral out to light (not
connected to the switch at all)

Live in from plug to COM on switch.

Switched live out to light from L1 or L2.





--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/12/2018 15:11, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then yes
that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED
with your multimeter.

After tracing continuity on both neutral and live wires as far back as
possible, ie from end to end, when I plugged in the power cable and put
both lives into com again. The light came on, but was not switchable, ie
it was permanently on and could only be switched of at the plug end

ok, both in the COM terminal was only intended to prove the light works.
Now move one of the wires from COM to the L2 / 2 way terminal. Light
should then switch ok.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/12/2018 15:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 15:11, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then
yes that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED
with your multimeter.

After tracing continuity on both neutral and live wires as far back as
possible, ie from end to end, when I plugged in the power cable and
put both lives into com again. The light came on, but was not
switchable, ie it was permanently on and could only be switched of at
the plug end

ok, both in the COM terminal was only intended to prove the light works.
Now move one of the wires from COM to the L2 / 2 way terminal. Light
should then switch ok.



Is that one of the live wires to L2 / 2 way terminal or one of the neutrals.
Just checking before I do it.

On 13/12/2018 15:29, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:24, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:13, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip
your house MCB or fuse again

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

You want neutral in from plug connected to neutral out to light (not
connected to the switch at all)

Live in from plug to COM on switch.

Switched live out to light from L1 or L2.





Plug neutral is connected to the light neutral by a choc block and plug
live is connected to the 2 way or L2, while the light live is connected
to com.

And now Eurika! it works.

The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then yes
that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED with
your multimeter.

As I just replied to John Rumm post:

Plug neutral is connected to the light neutral by a choc block and plug
live is connected to the 2 way or L2, while the light live is connected
to com.

And now Eurika! it works.

The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

RobH wrote:

On 13/12/2018 15:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 15:11, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then
yes that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED
with your multimeter.

After tracing continuity on both neutral and live wires as far back as
possible, ie from end to end, when I plugged in the power cable and
put both lives into com again. The light came on, but was not
switchable, ie it was permanently on and could only be switched of at
the plug end

ok, both in the COM terminal was only intended to prove the light works.
Now move one of the wires from COM to the L2 / 2 way terminal. Light
should then switch ok.



Is that one of the live wires to L2 / 2 way terminal or one of the neutrals.
Just checking before I do it.

Definitely *not* the neutral! But which live you move will affect
whether the neon works or not.

--

Roger Hayter

RobH wrote:

And now Eurika! it works.

good, don't forget the tidying-up exercises previously mentioned,
also make sure the cables have strain relief so they don't get pulled
out leaving exposed live ends etc.

On 13/12/2018 16:26, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

And now Eurika! it works.

good, don't forget the tidying-up exercises previously mentioned,
also make sure the cables have strain relief so they don't get pulled
out leaving exposed live ends etc.

Yes , I'm going to do that tomorrow now.

On 13/12/2018 16:24, Roger Hayter wrote:
RobH wrote:

On 13/12/2018 15:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 15:11, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then
yes that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED
with your multimeter.

After tracing continuity on both neutral and live wires as far back as
possible, ie from end to end, when I plugged in the power cable and
put both lives into com again. The light came on, but was not
switchable, ie it was permanently on and could only be switched of at
the plug end

ok, both in the COM terminal was only intended to prove the light works.
Now move one of the wires from COM to the L2 / 2 way terminal. Light
should then switch ok.



Is that one of the live wires to L2 / 2 way terminal or one of the neutrals.
Just checking before I do it.

Definitely *not* the neutral! But which live you move will affect
whether the neon works or not.


No it wasn't neutral, it was a live / brown wire I put into the 2 way
/L2 port

On 13/12/2018 16:18, RobH wrote:
The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

Excellent news...



Did you check the Earth like I said?



--
Email does not work

On 13/12/2018 17:07, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/12/2018 16:18, RobH wrote:
The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

Excellent news...



Did you check the Earth like I said?




Yes I did actually.

Thanks

On 13/12/2018 17:10, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 17:07, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/12/2018 16:18, RobH wrote:
The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good
thing, as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

Excellent news...



Did you check the Earth like I said?




Yes I did actually.

Thanks

Good-oh - just checking. Saw your 2 core cable and the earth cut off on
the other one. Not all light fittings are double insulated.

Strictly speaking, the IET Wiring regs require an earth at every
lighting point even if the current fitting is double insulated (in case
someone comes along and changes it to a Class I earthed fitting later).

But I'm guessing, by the fact you're using flex rather than T+E, this is
a more "temporary" setup?

--
Email does not work

On 13/12/2018 17:16, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/12/2018 17:10, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 17:07, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/12/2018 16:18, RobH wrote:
The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good
thing, as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

Excellent news...



Did you check the Earth like I said?




Yes I did actually.

Thanks

Good-oh - just checking. Saw your 2 core cable and the earth cut off on
the other one. Not all light fittings are double insulated.

Strictly speaking, the IET Wiring regs require an earth at every
lighting point even if the current fitting is double insulated (in case
someone comes along and changes it to a Class I earthed fitting later).

But I'm guessing, by the fact you're using flex rather than T+E, this is
a more "temporary" setup?


Now I know how it should be connected/ wired , I'll sort everything else
out tomorrow in daylight.

On 13/12/2018 16:18, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 15:29, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:24, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 14:13, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip
your house MCB or fuse again

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

You want neutral in from plug connected to neutral out to light (not
connected to the switch at all)

Live in from plug to COM on switch.

Switched live out to light from L1 or L2.





Plug neutral is connected to the light neutral by a choc block and plug
live is connected to the 2 way or L2, while the light live is connected
to com.

And now Eurika! it works.

The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Yup, that's the way its meant to work... (not much use the other way round!)

Thanks for your help and patience.

Well done for persevering!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

RobH wrote:

On 13/12/2018 14:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Ok so what do I need to do now to get it working by the switch.
Plug in the orange/power cable, and hope for the best.

if the wires are re-connected as per your google drive photo, then yes
that should work, but we can't see everything from one photo.

You are there and (with it unplugged) can systematically trace the
continuity of the live then the neutral from plug via switch to LED with
your multimeter.

As I just replied to John Rumm post:

Plug neutral is connected to the light neutral by a choc block and plug
live is connected to the 2 way or L2, while the light live is connected
to com.

And now Eurika! it works.

The switch led is on when the light is off, which may be a good thing,
as it can be seen in darkness.

Thanks for your help and patience.

Great. It's nice when things one has assembled work!

--

Roger Hayter

On 13/12/2018 19:03, RobH wrote:

Now I know how it should be connected/ wired , I'll sort everything else
out tomorrow in daylight.


If you're wiring permanently with Twin&Earth (1mm2 or 1.5mm2 are both
standard for lighting), don't forget some green+yellow sleeve for the
earth wires (all bare wire must be sleeved inside
fittings/switches/junction boxes. B&Q sell this.

And a bit of brown insulation tape *if* you end up running a switched
live over the blue wire - need a wrap at each end to signify it's live.
However, if you wire it as per your photo you won't need to do this as
your blue will be neutral and your brown live.



--
Email does not work

On Thursday, 13 December 2018 14:14:00 UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the switch, that'll trip your
house MCB or fuse again

what worries me a little is that had already been answered.

wrote
Andy Burns wrote
RobH wrote

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the
switch, that'll trip your house MCB or fuse again

what worries me a little is that had already been answered.

It shouldnt. The electrical system is
designed to fail safe and clearly did so.

On Friday, 14 December 2018 06:05:49 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote
Andy Burns wrote
RobH wrote

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the
switch, that'll trip your house MCB or fuse again

what worries me a little is that had already been answered.

It shouldnt. The electrical system is
designed to fail safe and clearly did so.

whoosh

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 14 December 2018 06:05:49 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote
Andy Burns wrote
RobH wrote

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.

No, the neutral doesn't want to connect to the
switch, that'll trip your house MCB or fuse again

what worries me a little is that had already been answered.

It shouldnt. The electrical system is
designed to fail safe and clearly did so.

whoosh

You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.

On 13/12/2018 13:47, charles wrote:
In article ,
RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals rather
than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the way
back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and 2
neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse again
and it didn't trip this time.

to ensure the incoming and out-going wires are making a proper connection,
twist the two conductors (the copper bits) together before putting to
tehchoc block or switch terminal.

Generally I am not a fan of twisting wires together - it just makes
disconnection for testing more difficult, and means you have to get all
the wires in the right place at the same time without any easy ability
to adjust their length or dress their position if required.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , John Rumm
wrote:
On 13/12/2018 13:47, charles wrote:
In article , RobH
wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals
rather than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the
way back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and 2
neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse
again and it didn't trip this time.

to ensure the incoming and out-going wires are making a proper
connection, twist the two conductors (the copper bits) together before
putting to tehchoc block or switch terminal.

Generally I am not a fan of twisting wires together - it just makes
disconnection for testing more difficult, and means you have to get all
the wires in the right place at the same time without any easy ability
to adjust their length or dress their position if required.

Obviously different people have different ideas. At my electrical workshop
course - admittedly 58 years ago, we were taught to twist. Mind you it was
3/029, 7/029 and 7/036 in those days, so probably different with solid
cable. But I still use stranded in conduit since it's more flexible.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 14/12/2018 12:45, charles wrote:
In article , John Rumm
wrote:
On 13/12/2018 13:47, charles wrote:
In article , RobH
wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals
rather than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the
way back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and 2
neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse
again and it didn't trip this time.

to ensure the incoming and out-going wires are making a proper
connection, twist the two conductors (the copper bits) together before
putting to tehchoc block or switch terminal.

Generally I am not a fan of twisting wires together - it just makes
disconnection for testing more difficult, and means you have to get all
the wires in the right place at the same time without any easy ability
to adjust their length or dress their position if required.

Obviously different people have different ideas. At my electrical workshop
course - admittedly 58 years ago, we were taught to twist. Mind you it was
3/029, 7/029 and 7/036 in those days, so probably different with solid
cable. But I still use stranded in conduit since it's more flexible.

Yup there is a distinction between stranded and solid core. There is
nothing wrong with twisting the individual ends of stranded wires to
consolidate the strands. There is perhaps some benefit in twisting
multiple standard wires together into a bigger bundle in some cases...

However twisting multiple solid cores together is less useful I find for
the reasons above, plus it also tends work harden the copper more and
make it more prone to breakage.

I suspect there is more emphasis on the ease of testing and inspection
now, that there was c. 60 years ago.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 14/12/2018 11:14, John Rumm wrote:

Generally I am not a fan of twisting wires together - it just makes
disconnection for testing more difficult, and means you have to get all
the wires in the right place at the same time without any easy ability
to adjust their length or dress their position if required.


+1

Sometimes I do - but only when I have a dodgy terminal and small cores
that seem to slip up the side of the screw.


--
Email does not work

In article , John Rumm
wrote:
On 14/12/2018 12:45, charles wrote:
In article , John
Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 13:47, charles wrote:
In article , RobH
wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the
choc block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals
rather than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the
way back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and
2 neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse
again and it didn't trip this time.

to ensure the incoming and out-going wires are making a proper
connection, twist the two conductors (the copper bits) together
before putting to tehchoc block or switch terminal.

Generally I am not a fan of twisting wires together - it just makes
disconnection for testing more difficult, and means you have to get
all the wires in the right place at the same time without any easy
ability to adjust their length or dress their position if required.

Obviously different people have different ideas. At my electrical
workshop course - admittedly 58 years ago, we were taught to twist.
Mind you it was 3/029, 7/029 and 7/036 in those days, so probably
different with solid cable. But I still use stranded in conduit since
it's more flexible.

Yup there is a distinction between stranded and solid core. There is
nothing wrong with twisting the individual ends of stranded wires to
consolidate the strands. There is perhaps some benefit in twisting
multiple standard wires together into a bigger bundle in some cases...

However twisting multiple solid cores together is less useful I find for
the reasons above, plus it also tends work harden the copper more and
make it more prone to breakage.

I suspect there is more emphasis on the ease of testing and inspection
now, that there was c. 60 years ago.

you are definitely right about that.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

In article ,
says...


Definitely *not* the neutral! But which live you move will affect
whether the neon works or not.


No it wasn't neutral, it was a live / brown wire I put into the 2 way
/L2 port

In your picture, the live is in L1 and the neon is in L2. That
isn't conventional because the neon will opnly come on when
the light is off.

However, if you put it back that way it could be useful
because it will make it very easy to find the switch in the
dark!

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Terry Casey wrote:

the live is in L1 and the neon is in L2. That
isn't conventional because the neon will opnly come on when
the light is off.

Surely that's the way it's intended? In the dark the neon shows you
where the switch is ...

On 14/12/2018 21:53, Andy Burns wrote:
Terry Casey wrote:

the live is in L1 and the neon is in L2. That
isn't conventional because the neon will opnly come on when
the light is off.

Surely that's the way it's intended?Â* In the dark the neon shows you
where the switch is ...

Yup, that's the way its suppose to work...

(and if you think about it, in most cases where there is no neutral
available at the switch position, about the only way it could work)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article
,
says...

On 14/12/2018 21:53, Andy Burns wrote:
Terry Casey wrote:

the live is in L1 and the neon is in L2. That
isn't conventional because the neon will opnly come on when
the light is off.

Surely that's the way it's intended?* In the dark the neon shows you
where the switch is ...

Yup, that's the way its suppose to work...

(and if you think about it, in most cases where there is no neutral
available at the switch position, about the only way it could work)

Fair enough, in this case, where it is controlling a light but
I've usually come across them where there is no visual
indication that the power has been switched on to an immersion
heater, for example, to remind you so that, hopefully, you'll
remember to turn it off when you don't need it.

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On 15/12/2018 21:11, Terry Casey wrote:
In article
,
says...

On 14/12/2018 21:53, Andy Burns wrote:
Terry Casey wrote:

the live is in L1 and the neon is in L2. That
isn't conventional because the neon will opnly come on when
the light is off.

Surely that's the way it's intended?* In the dark the neon shows you
where the switch is ...

Yup, that's the way its suppose to work...

(and if you think about it, in most cases where there is no neutral
available at the switch position, about the only way it could work)

Fair enough, in this case, where it is controlling a light but
I've usually come across them where there is no visual
indication that the power has been switched on to an immersion
heater, for example, to remind you so that, hopefully, you'll
remember to turn it off when you don't need it.

That kind of switch is usually double pole and you have access to a
neutral, so its easy enough to have it light when on. For a light switch
which only has a lice and switched live, then best you can do is use the
switched live (when the switch is open) as a neutral reference seen
through the lamp. Once you close the switch you lose your voltage
differential, and the lamp goes out.


--
Cheers,

John.

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In article
,
says...

On 15/12/2018 21:11, Terry Casey wrote:

Fair enough, in this case, where it is controlling a light but
I've usually come across them where there is no visual
indication that the power has been switched on to an immersion
heater, for example, to remind you so that, hopefully, you'll
remember to turn it off when you don't need it.

That kind of switch is usually double pole and you have access to a
neutral, so its easy enough to have it light when on. For a light switch
which only has a lice and switched live, then best you can do is use the
switched live (when the switch is open) as a neutral reference seen
through the lamp. Once you close the switch you lose your voltage
differential, and the lamp goes out.

Yes, obvious when you think about it! Thanks for putting me
straight!

--

Terry

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