On 12/12/2018 15:01, DerbyBorn wrote:
Rob - Please get someone to do it for you. Even wiring into a waterproof
swithch needs a bit of experience.


That not the sprit of this news group.



--
Adam

On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody asked for
a picture?
Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ

They are supposed to be shared.

RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe Public
before posting them, none have so far :-(

On 12/12/2018 20:26, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody
asked for
a picture?
Â* Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ


They are supposed to be shared.

I'm obliged to create an account and login to Google to see these.

Can you post somewhere where we can see simply them?

"RobH" wrote in message
...
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody asked
for
a picture?
Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ

They are supposed to be shared.

But still arent.

On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe Public
before posting them, none have so far :-(

Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing

Bob Eager wrote:

On Wed, 12 Dec 2018 18:43:06 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:


Not least, cable retention for the cable/flex to the plug. From the
OP's description, the neon may be across the switch, which is clever in
one way, but obsolete design in these days of CFLs and LEDs.


I was thinking the same.

We have a couple of 'across the switch' neons, and they work OK with CFLs
at least.

Perhaps they're ok in a garage, but they made my CFLs glow in the dark.

--

Roger Hayter

RobH wrote:

On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe Public
before posting them, none have so far :-(
Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...eA392/view?usp
=sharing

That worked. The wiring is effective, though you don't want any stray
strands outside the terminal of the brown wire. And it should
according to regs have an earth wire from the plug to the light fitting.
It may be reasonably safe, albeit not correct, if your light fitting
does not need earthing because it has no or double insulated metalwork.
And you do need to stop the cables pullng out of the box, either with
special glands that screw into the switch box holes (? 20mm) or by
clipping them to the wall.


--

Roger Hayter

RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 15:44, FMurtz wrote:
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 14:36, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

The LED on the front of the switch has 2 thin black wires from it,
1 to com, and the other to 2 way.
Does that make a difference to how the wiring should be.

A photo of the internals of the switch would be helpful ...


Yes I realise that, but I have nowhere I can upload it, as I don't
have a website now.
Just put imgur into google and follow instructions


Sorry I'm not sure what you mean about putting imgur into google.
Therein lies the problem.

"FMurtz" wrote in message
...
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 15:44, FMurtz wrote:
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 14:36, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

The LED on the front of the switch has 2 thin black wires from it, 1
to com, and the other to 2 way.
Does that make a difference to how the wiring should be.

A photo of the internals of the switch would be helpful ...


Yes I realise that, but I have nowhere I can upload it, as I don't have
a website now.
Just put imgur into google and follow instructions


Sorry I'm not sure what you mean about putting imgur into google.

Therein lies the problem.

He is getting there with the photos tho and may well be able
to do the wiring of the switch safely now there are photos of it.

RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody
asked for
a picture?
Â* Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ


They are supposed to be shared.
All I get is error 404

"FMurtz" wrote in message
...
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody asked
for
a picture?
Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ
They are supposed to be shared.
All I get is error 404

His last one now works.

RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe
Public before posting them, none have so far :-(

Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing

The wiring looks right, if it doesn't work, check the fuse in your plug,
there are a few gotchas though ....

Looks like where you cut the outer insulation of the orange cable, you
nicked the inner blue insulation.

You've got stray strands poking out of the live of the black cable.

You've chopped off the earth on the outgoing black cable, and have no
incoming earth on the orange cable.

The wire from the neon is getting trapped under the case screw.

They might sound minor, but should be put right if you don't want it to
scream "bodge job" ...

Is the switch actually outdoors or inside the garage?

On 13/12/2018 05:44, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe
Public before posting them, none have so far :-(

Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing


The wiring looks right, if it doesn't work, check the fuse in your plug,
there are a few gotchas though ....

Looks like where you cut the outer insulation of the orange cable, you
nicked the inner blue insulation.

You've got stray strands poking out of the live of the black cable.

You've chopped off the earth on the outgoing black cable, and have no
incoming earth on the orange cable.

The wire from the neon is getting trapped under the case screw.

They might sound minor, but should be put right if you don't want it to
scream "bodge job" ...

Is the switch actually outdoors or inside the garage?


Thanks, and I'll correct the gotchas. I know about them, but was just
concerned with getting it working at the time.

The switch is just inside the garage door.

Interestingly, and electrician whom I showed the picture to, said I had
to many wires, and only needed 2. That confused me even more.

On 13/12/2018 00:17, Roger Hayter wrote:
RobH wrote:

On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe Public
before posting them, none have so far :-(
Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...eA392/view?usp
=sharing

That worked. The wiring is effective, though you don't want any stray
strands outside the terminal of the brown wire. And it should
according to regs have an earth wire from the plug to the light fitting.
It may be reasonably safe, albeit not correct, if your light fitting
does not need earthing because it has no or double insulated metalwork.
And you do need to stop the cables pullng out of the box, either with
special glands that screw into the switch box holes (? 20mm) or by
clipping them to the wall.



The actual physical situation is:

Light on a roof beam with cable running to switch
Power source, ie plug into 1 of the double socket, on a wall with cable
running to switch.
Switch has 2 lives and 2 neutrals from the light and the plug.

At the moment it doesn't work, and I showed the picture to an
electrician who told me I had to many wires.

RobH wrote:

At the moment it doesn't work

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and plug
it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does LED
batten work?

RobH wrote:

said I had to many wires

He will be assuming it's wired "conventionally" via a ceiling rose, in
which case there would be no neutral at the switch, did you explain that
the orange cable was plugged in to 13A socket?

Since it appears you only have a double socket permanently wired into the garage, then if you want to make the lighting circuit into a permanent and proper installation, then I would do the following;

Switch off power to garage

Fit a Fused Spur Unit (FSU) next to the socket and using a short length of T&E cable connect the SUPPLY terminals to the L, N & E in the socket. If your sockets are near the door you can get a switched FSU and you will have no need for a further switch. Make sure you sleeve any earth wires with green/yellow sleeving.

Run 1mm2 T&E from the LOAD terminals of the FSU to your switch if needs be and from there to your light fitting.

Wire the switch as in your photo remember to sleeve the Earths and connect them together.

Wire your light fitting again sleeving the Earth ensure you have correctly wired the L, N & E.

Replace the 13A fuse in the FSU with a 3A.

You should now be able to switch the power back on and your lighting circuit should work leaving both sockets free.

You say that your current switch is not working even though it appears correctly connected L & N wise. I would check you have L, N & E connected properly at both the socket end and light fitting. If you think it is the switch still faulty try swapping the wire in 1way to 2 way. Internally the switch is just a changeover switch that flicks from one terminal to the other. The only reason they are marked thus is to ensure when the switch plate is correctly orientated on its back box it is a downward press of the rocker that performs the switching. If it still does not work return it to B&Q, aithough i might be tempted to test it with a multimeter or a low voltage lamp and battery first.

Richard

On 12/12/2018 13:31, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 13:16, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I can't see my post from yesterday about 2 way outdoor switch in my
garage, so I'll just ask this.

What type of switch do I need for a light in my garage. Not being and
electrician, I am confused by the so many different types to know what I
should have.

Your original post is still there have you gone down far enough?
Several replies have asked you for specific information in order to
give you the correct answer. It is important that you provide the
information, as a self confessed amateur when it comes to electrics it
vital from the safety point of view you are correctly guided a mistake
could be fatal.

Richard

Yes I realise it will be still there, but the news group I use is
NETNews from either Germany or somewhere in the Netherlands. I can't
remember just now. From this group there are quite a few post missing
from yesterday, That is why I can't see it.

You can always use groups.google.com if needs be...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 12/12/2018 14:33, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 14:07, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

What type of switch do I need for a light in my garage

Did you say you bought a switch from B&Q?

I can't see a 20AX that they sell, was it one of these

https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-1-gang-2-way-20a-external-single-outdoor-switch/259131_BQ.prd


if so the neon will probably already give you a separate terminal you
can use to connect both neutrals to, without a wago etc, can you post
a link to a photo of the internals of the switch?

The LED on the front of the switch has 2 thin black wires from it, 1 to
com, and the other to 2 way.

Its probably a neon rather than a LED...

Does that make a difference to how the wiring should be.

No.

The neon is usually connected such that it is wired across the terminals
you are using. That way when the light is off, the neon will "see" some
load through the lamp[1], and light. When you turn the light on, the
neon is now shunted out by the switch and goes out.


[1] This works ok on filament lamps, but might not work on a LED lamp.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 12/12/2018 20:26, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody
asked for
a picture?
Â* Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ


They are supposed to be shared.

If you drop me an email, I can setup an account for you on the wiki. You
can then post pictures there...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/12/2018 08:55, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 05:44, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe
Public before posting them, none have so far :-(

Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing



The wiring looks right, if it doesn't work, check the fuse in your
plug, there are a few gotchas though ....

Looks like where you cut the outer insulation of the orange cable, you
nicked the inner blue insulation.

You've got stray strands poking out of the live of the black cable.

You've chopped off the earth on the outgoing black cable, and have no
incoming earth on the orange cable.

The wire from the neon is getting trapped under the case screw.

They might sound minor, but should be put right if you don't want it
to scream "bodge job" ...

Is the switch actually outdoors or inside the garage?


Thanks, and I'll correct the gotchas. I know about them, but was just
concerned with getting it working at the time.

The switch is just inside the garage door.

Interestingly, and electrician whom I showed the picture to, said I had
to many wires, and only needed 2. That confused me even more.

That is because he is assuming the classic cases where this is just one
wire connected to a ceiling rose or similar. Then the lice is live, and
the "neutral" is actually used as a switched live back to the light fitting.

For what you have the wiring looks correct.

As a test, if you place both brown wires into the com terminal (i.e.
just joining them together, does the lamp now light?

If the answer is "no", then you have a problem either at the lamp end,
or the plug and socket end, and will need to find that first.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tricky Dicky wrote:

I would do the following

That would be the best long-term (though I suppose there's nothing
'wrong' with plugging the light in)

But I think simpler tests could be done first

1) check or swap the fuse in the plug
2) wire the light direct to the plug, with no switch involved.

On 13/12/2018 09:50, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

At the moment it doesn't work

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and plug
it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does LED
batten work?

I'm glad you asked, because it doesn't light up.
I'm now going to take it back

RobH wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and
plug it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does
LED batten work?

I'm glad you asked, because it doesn't light up.

I presume something else plugged into the socket does work?

On 13/12/2018 11:07, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and
plug it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does
LED batten work?

I'm glad you asked, because it doesn't light up.

I presume something else plugged into the socket does work?

Yes it does, and I used an electric pistol drill yesterday.

On 13/12/2018 09:52, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

said I had to many wires

He will be assuming it's wired "conventionally" via a ceiling rose, in
which case there would be no neutral at the switch, did you explain that
the orange cable was plugged in to 13A socket?

Yes I did but he said he was busy so just went on his way

On 13/12/2018 10:34, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 08:55, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 05:44, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

I have added 3 more pictures

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe
Public before posting them, none have so far :-(

Ok try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing




The wiring looks right, if it doesn't work, check the fuse in your
plug, there are a few gotchas though ....

Looks like where you cut the outer insulation of the orange cable,
you nicked the inner blue insulation.

You've got stray strands poking out of the live of the black cable.

You've chopped off the earth on the outgoing black cable, and have no
incoming earth on the orange cable.

The wire from the neon is getting trapped under the case screw.

They might sound minor, but should be put right if you don't want it
to scream "bodge job" ...

Is the switch actually outdoors or inside the garage?


Thanks, and I'll correct the gotchas. I know about them, but was just
concerned with getting it working at the time.

The switch is just inside the garage door.

Interestingly, and electrician whom I showed the picture to, said I
had to many wires, and only needed 2. That confused me even more.

That is because he is assuming the classic cases where this is just one
wire connected to a ceiling rose or similar. Then the lice is live, and
the "neutral" is actually used as a switched live back to the light
fitting.

For what you have the wiring looks correct.

As a test, if you place both brown wires into the com terminal (i.e.
just joining them together, does the lamp now light?

If the answer is "no", then you have a problem either at the lamp end,
or the plug and socket end, and will need to find that first.


Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I put
both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or differently.

Thanks

RobH wrote:

Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I put
both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or differently.

leave them in the choc-block within the switch box

On 13/12/2018 11:46, RobH wrote:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZY...ew?usp=sharing
Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I put
both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or differently.

Thanks

Looks fine L+N wise.

Where's the earth? Does the lamp fitting have one or is it double
insulated (marked with a square inside a square) like:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Figures/5.20b.gif


Your circuit should look like:
/
Supply L-----o o--------L Lamp

Supply N-----------------N Lamp
Supply E----SwitchE------E Lamp
if present
--
Email does not work

On 13/12/2018 11:49, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I put
both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or differently.

leave them in the choc-block within the switch box

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

On 13/12/2018 10:30, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:26, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody
asked for
a picture?
Â* Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ


They are supposed to be shared.

If you drop me an email, I can setup an account for you on the wiki. You
can then post pictures there...


Thanks but I have the picture shared now and it works for others ok

RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED, unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals rather
than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

On 13/12/2018 12:17, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 10:30, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/12/2018 20:26, RobH wrote:
On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:
Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody
asked for
a picture?
Â* Brian

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q... Nbku_3N5_-ZIQ


They are supposed to be shared.

If you drop me an email, I can setup an account for you on the wiki.
You can then post pictures there...


Thanks but I have the picture shared now and it works for others ok

Not for me they don't.


--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

On 13/12/2018 12:15, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 11:49, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I
put both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or
differently.

leave them in the choc-block within the switch box

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

ok, so you have a problem that is not related to the switch. By having
the neutrals joined in the block, and the lives joined in the switch
terminal (i.e. using the switch as nothing more than and oversized chock
block), the light should be permanently on.

You need to take this step at a time starting at one end.

Do you have a multimeter? If so that would make testing quicker.

I would take the following steps:

Check the socket actually works by plugging in something else.

Now check the wiring of your plug - blue wire to left terminal, brown to
right terminal.

Check that the insulation is correctly stripped in the terminals.

Check the fuse is making good contact at both ends. Try a different fuse.

Now do similar checks at the light.

If you have a multimeter, then stick it in continuity check mode (or a
low ohms range), and check that you can measure conductivity between the
right hand pin of the plug (when its unplugged and you are looking at
the pin side), and your neutral chock block. Now check the left pin to
the com terminal.

Then check from live pin to L1 or L2 - you should see that flipping the
switch makes or breaks continuity.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/12/2018 11:03, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 09:50, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

At the moment it doesn't work

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and
plug it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does
LED batten work?

I'm glad you asked, because it doesn't light up.
I'm now going to take it back

Ah, ok read this after my last post... you can ignore the fault finding
steps then!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

RobH wrote:

I have the picture shared now and it works for others ok

Not for me they don't.

The photos.google ones don't, but the drive.google one does

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZYrreuFHvQHrR9DfnwZ_MUVgRbeA392

On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals rather
than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the way
back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and 2
neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse again
and it didn't trip this time.

In article ,
RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:21, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

so the light did work when you put a plug direct on the black wire?

switch could be faulty ... but faulty switch as well as faulty LED,
unlucky?

unplug the orange cable and check it for damage.

check you've not got insulation trapped in the switch terminals rather
than good contact to the copper.

did anything go 'bang' at any previous stage? if so switch contacts
could be welded

No no bang , but I have found that the fuse had tripped in the box
inside the house.

I have checked the light works with a plug into the socket all the way
back to the switch end. Then when I put both lives into com and 2
neutrals into the choc block, it doesn't work. I checked the fuse again
and it didn't trip this time.

to ensure the incoming and out-going wires are making a proper connection,
twist the two conductors (the copper bits) together before putting to
tehchoc block or switch terminal.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 13/12/2018 12:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2018 12:15, RobH wrote:
On 13/12/2018 11:49, Andy Burns wrote:
RobH wrote:

Before I do anything, I know the exchanged light works, where do I
put both neutrals, leave them how they are as per my picture, or
differently.

leave them in the choc-block within the switch box

With both live wires in the com port and the 2 neutrals in the choc
block, the light does not work.

ok, so you have a problem that is not related to the switch. By having
the neutrals joined in the block, and the lives joined in the switch
terminal (i.e. using the switch as nothing more than and oversized chock
block), the light should be permanently on.

You need to take this step at a time starting at one end.

Do you have a multimeter? If so that would make testing quicker.

Yes I do

I would take the following steps:

Check the socket actually works by plugging in something else.

Now check the wiring of your plug - blue wire to left terminal, brown to
right terminal.

All ok after checking

Check that the insulation is correctly stripped in the terminals.

It was

Check the fuse is making good contact at both ends. Try a different fuse.

The 3amp fuse is ok and so is a 5amp one, as they both read full scale
on my needle type meter. (Can't remember if it's analogue or not)

Now do similar checks at the light.

If you have a multimeter, then stick it in continuity check mode (or a
low ohms range), and check that you can measure conductivity between the
right hand pin of the plug (when its unplugged and you are looking at
the pin side), and your neutral chock block.

Yes there was continuity between to 2 points

Now check the left pin to the com terminal.

Same again , continuity between the 2 points

Then check from live pin to L1 or L2 - you should see that flipping the
switch makes or breaks continuity.

Putting the meter on L1 or 1 way, and the live pin of the plug , then
flipping the switch does indeed makes and breaks continuity.

Do I need to put a neutral, or both wires into 1 way or L1.