[George]

Many years ago in 1975 and 1976 I drove on my own, from UK to Abu Dhabi, where I worked for an oil company. I used series 3 Landrovers on both trips and, knowing there were a few patches of sand in the last section approaching the UAE I devised a simple system to help get me out of getting stuck by having manufactured 10 extension wheel studs, so I could change the rear axel to drive double wheels. They were made in an Abu Dhabi workshop and apart from trying them out, when they worked OK and did not foul the bodywork, I never got so stuck that I had to use them.

I gave up on Landrovers a few years ago, as the strength required to operate the cars, for which I had loads of spares, was beyond my advancing years. I also had a lot of General Motors trucks too and It is possible that the 10 pieces I have still, could conceivably be for a Chevrolet Blazer as I had three of those with similar problems of getting stuck in soft sand, and a GMC Jimmy.

I have measured the thread size of these items and they are 9/16th 16 TPI. does anyone know what the thread size for the wheel nuts of the series 3 Landrovers was and probably still is? This thread is 9/16 UNF.

I am getting rid of a lot of my bits and pieces and to be able to advertise I need to know which vehicle they were made for. Any comments welcome.

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly, which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

Thanks George.

[Bill Wright[_3_]]

On 03/11/2018 13:56, George wrote:

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly, which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

I had to use a pressurised accumulator tank. It solved the problem. It
was also necessary to make careful adjustments to the shower mixer tap
setting.

Bill

[George]

On Saturday, 3 November 2018 13:56:29 UTC, George wrote:
Many years ago in 1975 and 1976 I drove on my own, from UK to Abu Dhabi, where I worked for an oil company. I used series 3 Landrovers on both trips and, knowing there were a few patches of sand in the last section approaching the UAE I devised a simple system to help get me out of getting stuck by having manufactured 10 extension wheel studs, so I could change the rear axel to drive double wheels. They were made in an Abu Dhabi workshop and apart from trying them out, when they worked OK and did not foul the bodywork, I never got so stuck that I had to use them.

I gave up on Landrovers a few years ago, as the strength required to operate the cars, for which I had loads of spares, was beyond my advancing years. I also had a lot of General Motors trucks too and It is possible that the 10 pieces I have still, could conceivably be for a Chevrolet Blazer as I had three of those with similar problems of getting stuck in soft sand, and a GMC Jimmy.

I have measured the thread size of these items and they are 9/16th 16 TPI.. does anyone know what the thread size for the wheel nuts of the series 3 Landrovers was and probably still is? This thread is 9/16 UNF.

I am getting rid of a lot of my bits and pieces and to be able to advertise I need to know which vehicle they were made for. Any comments welcome.

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly, which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

Thanks George.

Thanks Bill, The pump came with a tank with a diaphagm but I have lost the instructions to set it up so I pumped it up to 20psi not really knowing what it should be set up, - the switches seem to vary the pressure between 10 psi and about 30, that was with no water pressure in the system, what do you think it should be? The water temperature which varies with the pressure, seems to be all over the place and I have to continually adjust this. Regards George.

[Fredxx[_3_]]

On 03/11/2018 16:55, George wrote:
On Saturday, 3 November 2018 13:56:29 UTC, George wrote:

snip

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home
where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and
I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works
fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot
water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot
of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does
anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the
situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly,
which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

Thanks George.

Thanks Bill, The pump came with a tank with a diaphagm but I have
lost the instructions to set it up so I pumped it up to 20psi not
really knowing what it should be set up, - the switches seem to vary
the pressure between 10 psi and about 30, that was with no water
pressure in the system, what do you think it should be? The water
temperature which varies with the pressure, seems to be all over the
place and I have to continually adjust this. Regards George.

A solution is to use an accumulator (expansion vessel) and pump, but
then to use a pressure reducer to cope with the fluctuations of
pressure. You might have to step up the pressure switch and make sure
the accumulator can cope.

I would set the accumulator pressure to be just below the expected
minimum water pressure, ie when the pump kicks in. 10 to 30psi is a very
wide range. I would expect less than a 2:1 range.

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , Fredxx
writes
On 03/11/2018 16:55, George wrote:
On Saturday, 3 November 2018 13:56:29 UTC, George wrote:

snip

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home
where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and
I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works
fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot
water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot
of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does
anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the
situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly,
which cannot be good for the relay contacts?
Thanks George.
Thanks Bill, The pump came with a tank with a diaphagm but I have
lost the instructions to set it up so I pumped it up to 20psi not
really knowing what it should be set up, - the switches seem to vary
the pressure between 10 psi and about 30, that was with no water
pressure in the system, what do you think it should be? The water
temperature which varies with the pressure, seems to be all over the
place and I have to continually adjust this. Regards George.

A solution is to use an accumulator (expansion vessel) and pump, but
then to use a pressure reducer to cope with the fluctuations of
pressure. You might have to step up the pressure switch and make sure
the accumulator can cope.

I would set the accumulator pressure to be just below the expected
minimum water pressure, ie when the pump kicks in. 10 to 30psi is a
very wide range. I would expect less than a 2:1 range.

We have an aqualisa shower unit fed by a pump. It took me some time to
learn that the shower would only supply hot water if the flow exceeded a
minimum level.

--
Tim Lamb

[Fredxx[_3_]]

On 03/11/2018 20:12, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Fredxx writes
On 03/11/2018 16:55, George wrote:
On Saturday, 3 November 2018 13:56:29 UTC, GeorgeÂ* wrote:

snip

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home
where I have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and
I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works
fine except in the shower and as the pump starts and stops the hot
water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot
of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray.Â* Does
anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the
situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly,
which cannot be good for the relay contacts?
Â*Thanks George.
Â*Thanks Bill,Â* The pump came with a tank with a diaphagm but I have
lost the instructions to set it up so I pumped it up to 20psi not
really knowing what it should be set up, - the switches seem to vary
the pressure between 10 psi and about 30, that was with no water
pressure in the system,Â* what do you think it should be?Â* The water
temperature which varies with the pressure, seems to be all over the
place and I have to continually adjust this.Â* Regards George.

A solution is to use an accumulator (expansion vessel) and pump, but
then to use a pressure reducer to cope with the fluctuations of
pressure. You might have to step up the pressure switch and make sure
the accumulator can cope.

I would set the accumulator pressure to be just below the expected
minimum water pressure, ie when the pump kicks in. 10 to 30psi is a
very wide range. I would expect less than a 2:1 range.

We have an aqualisa shower unit fed by a pump. It took me some time to
learn that the shower would only supply hot water if the flow exceeded a
minimum level.

Some systems use flow to simply turn on a pump, others use a pressure
switch with some hysteresis. Yours likely uses the former method and I
assumed the OP's pump used the latter method.

Another way if a pressure switch is used is to place a restriction
before the pump, so flow is limited and the pressure for the switch to
switch off is not reached during a 'normal' shower.