I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4

On 27/04/2018 13:44, Adam_B wrote:
I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used
as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I
pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath
which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage
floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the
original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to
go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor
which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight
into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4


I've recently used "Sika Bond Rapid Liquid DPM 5Ltr Bottle (Damp Proof
Membrane) - 20m² Coverage" when re-laying a parquet floor in a 1930s
house. It was quick to do, but the solvent fumes are quite strong.

I see a lot of planning applications to turn garages into a habitable room
and as well as obviously blocking up the door where the car goes in, many
seem to include a damp proof membrane before the final flooring. Sounds like
this has not happened here at all.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
On 27/04/2018 13:44, Adam_B wrote:
I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used
as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming
from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I
pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath which
was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage
floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which
was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the
original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to
go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor
which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight
into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will
work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4


I've recently used "Sika Bond Rapid Liquid DPM 5Ltr Bottle (Damp Proof
Membrane) - 20m² Coverage" when re-laying a parquet floor in a 1930s
house. It was quick to do, but the solvent fumes are quite strong.

Adam_B m wrote:

I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4

The cheapest solution is to take off the carpet and chipboard and let
the surface of the concrete dry naturally. With a bit of luck
insufficient damp will pass through for the surface to stay wet in air.
If it does, no simple coating will last long.


--

Roger Hayter

On 27/04/2018 13:44, Adam_B wrote:
I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used
as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I
pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath
which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage
floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the
original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to
go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor
which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight
into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4


You could replace the chipboard floor but with a polythene DPM under it.

Mike

On Friday, 27 April 2018 13:44:06 UTC+1, Adam_B wrote:

I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work..

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4

As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.

You mentioned self levelling compound, is there a problem with the floor being lumpy?

Finally you'll have a lot of problems here if you use the dreaded website you're on now. Most contributors blank all hoh posts. This is news:uk.d-i-y.


NT

On 27/04/18 13:44, Adam_B wrote:
I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used
as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I
pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath
which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage
floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the
original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to
go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor
which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as

If you do that, I can recommend an epoxy that *will* work (because I
used it on a very damp floor):

F Ball Stopgap F76:

http://www.f-ball.com/en/datasheets/

Clean the subfloor (concrete)

Mix half and roller on (ceiling roller on long pole and wearing wellies
makes this easy.

Mix other half and roll on 2nd coat at 90 degrees to first coat.


You could probably get the same effect from an epoxy floor paint and
don't bother covering.

On 27/04/18 16:30, wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

On 28/04/2018 08:30, wrote:
On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

Having recently re-laid a 1930s parquet floor that was laid on bitumen I
don't see why anyone would choose to use the stuff these days.
Supposedly Sika 5500S works with bitumen, but I scraped off most of the
bitumen before using it.

On Saturday, 28 April 2018 08:53:21 UTC+1, wrote:
On 28/04/2018 08:30, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

Having recently re-laid a 1930s parquet floor that was laid on bitumen I
don't see why anyone would choose to use the stuff these days.
Supposedly Sika 5500S works with bitumen, but I scraped off most of the
bitumen before using it.

it's cheap, long lived & 100% waterproof. Why would you use Sika?


NT

On 27/04/2018 15:38, Roger Hayter wrote:
Adam_B m wrote:

I have a garage which is attached to the main house, this is being used as a
utility room/storage. Recently I noticed hard black ball shapes coming from
the carpet, I looked into this and formed the opinion this was damp. I pulled
up the carpet tiles and noticed that there was chipboard underneath which was
damp and rotten, this chip board was placed directly on the main garage floor.

I have recently pulled up the capets tiles and wooden chip board which was
directly on top of the concrete so that I just have the original floor.
I have been looking at how to damp proof this, I an happy having the original
floor however on looking at various bits online do not know which was to go.

Should I buy KA tanking slurry and a self level compound and paint this?

ShouldCan I/should I buy a paint which I can paint straight on the floor which
also acts as a damp proof membrane such as
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... fer/p33714

I have been looking into epoxy sealants which can be painted straight into the
concrete, however don't really know enough about this and if it will work.

Please help
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e2
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e3
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/e4

The cheapest solution is to take off the carpet and chipboard and let
the surface of the concrete dry naturally. With a bit of luck
insufficient damp will pass through for the surface to stay wet in air.
If it does, no simple coating will last long.

I have used carpets that breath on such a surface. Just don't use foam
backed ones!

On 28/04/2018 09:10, wrote:
On Saturday, 28 April 2018 08:53:21 UTC+1, wrote:
On 28/04/2018 08:30, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

Having recently re-laid a 1930s parquet floor that was laid on bitumen I
don't see why anyone would choose to use the stuff these days.
Supposedly Sika 5500S works with bitumen, but I scraped off most of the
bitumen before using it.

it's cheap, long lived & 100% waterproof. Why would you use Sika?


NT

Mainly because it goes brittle and Sika doesn't. Also, I thought I'd
read that there were restrictions on the use of bitumen inside buildings
.... ?

On Saturday, 28 April 2018 10:05:57 UTC+1, wrote:
On 28/04/2018 09:10, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 28 April 2018 08:53:21 UTC+1, wrote:
On 28/04/2018 08:30, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

Having recently re-laid a 1930s parquet floor that was laid on bitumen I
don't see why anyone would choose to use the stuff these days.
Supposedly Sika 5500S works with bitumen, but I scraped off most of the
bitumen before using it.

it's cheap, long lived & 100% waterproof. Why would you use Sika?


NT

Mainly because it goes brittle and Sika doesn't. Also, I thought I'd
read that there were restrictions on the use of bitumen inside buildings
... ?

Bitumen adhered parquet floors last nearly a century before needing resticking. Sika has no such great proven history.

I can't think of ay reason to restrict indoor use of bitumen, nor am I aware of any such rule. Since it's applied to the skin for medical purposes it seems unlikely unless you can point to the relevant Act of Parliament.


NT

Wrote in message:
On 28/04/2018 09:10, wrote:
On Saturday, 28 April 2018 08:53:21 UTC+1, wrote:
On 28/04/2018 08:30, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 27 April 2018 22:01:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:
On 27/04/18 16:30, tabbypurr wrote:
As someone said it may dry out once it's all exposed, then no further action needed, just don't re-cover it.

+1

If that doesn't do it, probably time to seal it. But be aware that doing so can sometimes make the walls very damp. Any waterproof coating can dampproof it, eg epoxy, bitumen, etc. Epoxy is the longest lasting. Bitumen's cheap but not good in direct sunlight. You can also get other types of waterproofing compounds.


Bitumen is also a nightmare if you then want to apply any bonded
covering later - nothing sticks to it, except more bitumen.

bonded coverings can be stuck down with bitumen... it's not an ideal glue but it works.


NT

Having recently re-laid a 1930s parquet floor that was laid on bitumen I
don't see why anyone would choose to use the stuff these days.
Supposedly Sika 5500S works with bitumen, but I scraped off most of the
bitumen before using it.

it's cheap, long lived & 100% waterproof. Why would you use Sika?


NT

Mainly because it goes brittle and Sika doesn't. Also, I thought I'd
read that there were restrictions on the use of bitumen inside buildings
... ?


"polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), which are known
carcinogens and have been reported to cause serious health
complications in humans. Generally, these same VOCs also cause
the pungent odors which assault the olfactory senses of anyone
near recently built asphalt road or tar roof (Modified Bitumen,
or Coal Tar)."


--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Jim K wrote:

"polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), which are known
carcinogens and have been reported to cause serious health
complications in humans. Generally, these same VOCs also cause
the pungent odors which assault the olfactory senses of anyone
near recently built asphalt road or tar roof (Modified Bitumen,
or Coal Tar)."

I have always liked the smell of fresh tarmac, but seeing some
being laid recently it seemed far less pungent. Has the recipe
changed, or are my aged nostrils less sensitive?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Sunday, 29 April 2018 07:51:59 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Jim K wrote:

"polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), which are known
carcinogens and have been reported to cause serious health
complications in humans. Generally, these same VOCs also cause
the pungent odors which assault the olfactory senses of anyone
near recently built asphalt road or tar roof (Modified Bitumen,
or Coal Tar)."

I have always liked the smell of fresh tarmac, but seeing some
being laid recently it seemed far less pungent. Has the recipe
changed, or are my aged nostrils less sensitive?

Chris

It's bitumen rather than coal tar or petroleum pitch. Tar & pitch pong if hot, I use cold bitumen in paraffin solvent indoors, no whiff issue.


NT