I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I
searched the web but not much info there.

Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can
offer some opinions about it.

Thank you,
Neil

Niel A. Farrow wrote:
I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I
searched the web but not much info there.

Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can
offer some opinions about it.

WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to?

--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Niel A. Farrow wrote:
I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I
searched the web but not much info there.

Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and
can
offer some opinions about it.

WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to?

--
Grunff


I think it's this stuff :

http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm

but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to
where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection
stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out
the moisture that's already there.

I've also heard of a new technique which is beginning to take over on the
continent. Seemingly it consists of wedging the stonework and digging out
the old mortar, then replacing it with a damp proofing mortar that is
injected in to where the old mortar was removed. I think they're using it
on some of the older historical buildings just now to stop any further rot
taking place and still not spoil the look of the outer face of the property.
If it passes all the tests, it might be something worth looking into in the
future as it sounds like a good idea.

"BigWallop" wrote in message ...
"Grunff" wrote in message
...

WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to?

I think it's this stuff :

http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm

but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to
where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection
stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out
the moisture that's already there.


Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all
thnik:

1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down
at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits
of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks.
Who nose.


Regards, NT

N. Thornton wrote in message ...
Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all
thnik:

1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down
at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits
of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks.
Who nose.

On a day like today the oil would probably make its way down the wall and
out on to the patio.

"stuart noble" wrote in message ...
N. Thornton wrote in message ...

Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all
thnik:

1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down
at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits
of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks.
Who nose.

On a day like today the oil would probably make its way down the wall and
out on to the patio.

What would make the oil move upwards? I cant see how it would myself.

Regards, NT

"N. Thornton" wrote:
"stuart noble" wrote...
N. Thornton wrote in message ...
1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar,
going down at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin
added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking
easily into bits of brickwork, and it seems like it could
well work on old soft bricks. Who nose.

On a day like today the oil would probably make its way
down the wall and out on to the patio.

What would make the oil move upwards? I cant see how it would
myself.

Upwards? Well, oil floats on water, so when damp in the wall
rises, the oil will go up. Worse, as the oil goes up, the
water will follow, or else there'd be a vacuum in your brick
wall, which would make the bricks implode, and your house
would fall down! In a heavy fall of rain, the soaking effect
might force the oil up so fast that it could spout out of
your chimney pot, like an old "gusher" (oil well). This
could be dangerous if you've a fire going, or the neighbours
have forgoten to bring their washing in.

I should forget about the possibility of using an injected
oil damp-proof course as soon as possible!

Erm... anyway, damp courses are above ground...


__________________________________________________ ______________
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Niel A. Farrow wrote:
I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I
searched the web but not much info there.

Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and
can
offer some opinions about it.

WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to?

--
Grunff


I think it's this stuff :

http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm

but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to
where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly
injection


I installed a DPC - it wasn't jelly, looked like and smelled like white
spirit - very thin.

stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push
out
the moisture that's already there.

I've also heard of a new technique which is beginning to take over on the
continent. Seemingly it consists of wedging the stonework and digging out
the old mortar, then replacing it with a damp proofing mortar that is
injected in to where the old mortar was removed.

The old methods in UK are :
1. use a masonry saw - cut 12- 18" sectiuons and insert a new DPM
2. electro osmosis - run an earth wire around, and ground it well (only used
inside to my knowledge)
3. drill and insert at an angle porous ceramic tubes - allows water to leach
out under hydrostatic pressure - think this has discontinued in use.


Rick

"jerrybuilt " ] wrote in message ...

What would make the oil move upwards? I cant see how it would
myself.

Upwards? Well, oil floats on water, so when damp in the wall
rises, the oil will go up.

not at all what happens.

Worse, as the oil goes up, the
water will follow, or else there'd be a vacuum in your brick
wall, which would make the bricks implode, and your house
would fall down! In a heavy fall of rain, the soaking effect
might force the oil up so fast that it could spout out of
your chimney pot, like an old "gusher" (oil well). This
could be dangerous if you've a fire going, or the neighbours
have forgoten to bring their washing in.

Amusing yes, but convincing no.

I should forget about the possibility of using an injected
oil damp-proof course as soon as possible!

I know you would, but not based on any reason here. The one good
reason to avoid them is that we dont know if they work or not, but I
would be interested to find out. Having used oil soaking as water
penetration prevention elsewhere I know it is most effective, and I
know it soaks nicely into old soft bricks, so I'm certainly curious.


Erm... anyway, damp courses are above ground...

Yes...


Regards, NT

BigWallop wrote in message 0dWXa.3963$Pi5.36437094@news-
On a small scale I've actually seen thinned varnish being used to damp
proof
an out house, but as I say, this was on a small scale. The method was to
drill angled holes along the wall and pour in the varnish and thinners
mixture. The thinners evaporated and left behind a sticky gel when in the
open air, so I take it left the same sticky gel behind in the bricks when
it
cured. It has worked really well on the shed for the past 5 or 6 years
since it's been done and no dampness has returned to where it was really
bad
before the treatment.
Solvent based resins thicken or solidify when the solvent has evaporated.
Oil remains fluid and gets thinner as the temperature rises so it's the last
thing I'd consider for damp proofing. On a hot day with no moisture around
it would migrate to the bottom of the wall. Related products like grease and
wax would be a better bet, particularly some grades of microcrystalline wax
that melt at around 80 degC. Used to waterproof wooden pallets I believe.
I'm a great experimenter but there are some things you just know won't work.

On 4 Aug 2003 14:04:42 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

"BigWallop" wrote in message ...
"Grunff" wrote in message
...

WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to?

I think it's this stuff :

http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm

but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to
where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection
stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out
the moisture that's already there.


Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all
thnik:

1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down
at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits
of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks.
Who nose.

What on earth makes you think parafin is going to make the bricks
waterproof??? It won't.

How the real stuff works is explained in
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...ws.demon.co.uk
as mentioen in a the "DIY damproof injection" thread a couple of days
ago. The parafin like spirit used is merely the carrier.

--
Phil Addison
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
Remove NOSPAM from address to reply

"Phil Addison" wrote in message . ..
On 4 Aug 2003 14:04:42 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all
thnik:

1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down
at an angle into each brick.
2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added.
3. Top up later in day.
4. Make good the mortar.

I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits
of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks.
Who nose.

What on earth makes you think parafin is going to make the bricks
waterproof??? It won't.

What makes you not read what youre replying to?

ago. The parafin like spirit used is merely the carrier.

indeed.

Regards, NT