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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I
searched the web but not much info there. Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can offer some opinions about it. Thank you, Neil |
#2
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Niel A. Farrow wrote:
I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I searched the web but not much info there. Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can offer some opinions about it. WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to? -- Grunff |
#3
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![]() "Grunff" wrote in message ... Niel A. Farrow wrote: I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I searched the web but not much info there. Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can offer some opinions about it. WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to? -- Grunff I think it's this stuff : http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out the moisture that's already there. I've also heard of a new technique which is beginning to take over on the continent. Seemingly it consists of wedging the stonework and digging out the old mortar, then replacing it with a damp proofing mortar that is injected in to where the old mortar was removed. I think they're using it on some of the older historical buildings just now to stop any further rot taking place and still not spoil the look of the outer face of the property. If it passes all the tests, it might be something worth looking into in the future as it sounds like a good idea. |
#4
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"BigWallop" wrote in message ...
"Grunff" wrote in message ... WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to? I think it's this stuff : http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out the moisture that's already there. Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all thnik: 1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down at an angle into each brick. 2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added. 3. Top up later in day. 4. Make good the mortar. I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks. Who nose. Regards, NT |
#5
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![]() N. Thornton wrote in message ... Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all thnik: 1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down at an angle into each brick. 2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added. 3. Top up later in day. 4. Make good the mortar. I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks. Who nose. On a day like today the oil would probably make its way down the wall and out on to the patio. |
#6
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"stuart noble" wrote in message ...
N. Thornton wrote in message ... Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all thnik: 1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down at an angle into each brick. 2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added. 3. Top up later in day. 4. Make good the mortar. I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks. Who nose. On a day like today the oil would probably make its way down the wall and out on to the patio. What would make the oil move upwards? I cant see how it would myself. Regards, NT |
#8
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"Phil Addison" wrote in message . ..
On 4 Aug 2003 14:04:42 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote: Interesting. I'm going to propose something similar, see what you all thnik: 1. drill a hole into each brick: drill in thru the mortar, going down at an angle into each brick. 2. Fill hole with new engine oil with a little paraffin added. 3. Top up later in day. 4. Make good the mortar. I've not tried it, but I have seen this stuff soaking easily into bits of brickwork, and it seems like it could well work on old soft bricks. Who nose. What on earth makes you think parafin is going to make the bricks waterproof??? It won't. What makes you not read what youre replying to? ago. The parafin like spirit used is merely the carrier. indeed. Regards, NT |
#9
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![]() "BigWallop" wrote in message ... "Grunff" wrote in message ... Niel A. Farrow wrote: I recently asked about the new damproofing cream. Not much response. I searched the web but not much info there. Anyone suggest where to get info from, or missed my last question and can offer some opinions about it. WTF is damp proofing cream? What part of the body is it applied to? -- Grunff I think it's this stuff : http://www.safeguardchem.com/Damp/dryzone.htm but as far as I've seen and heard, it's garbage, and only stays local to where it is applied instead of spreading out like the thick jelly injection I installed a DPC - it wasn't jelly, looked like and smelled like white spirit - very thin. stuff that penetrates in to the stonework better, and can actually push out the moisture that's already there. I've also heard of a new technique which is beginning to take over on the continent. Seemingly it consists of wedging the stonework and digging out the old mortar, then replacing it with a damp proofing mortar that is injected in to where the old mortar was removed. The old methods in UK are : 1. use a masonry saw - cut 12- 18" sectiuons and insert a new DPM 2. electro osmosis - run an earth wire around, and ground it well (only used inside to my knowledge) 3. drill and insert at an angle porous ceramic tubes - allows water to leach out under hydrostatic pressure - think this has discontinued in use. Rick |
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