Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!
--
Graeme

Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it, it's fairly non-robust aluminium alloy I think. If you need
to preserve the housing then try levering it up working round the edge
with a screwdriver or chisel, you should be able to get the bladein
the gap where the gasket is, the gaskets are quite thick.


--
Chris Green
·

In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris Green wrote:
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.

is that similar to "muckite"?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 09/04/18 16:44, charles wrote:
In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris Green wrote:
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.

is that similar to "muckite"?

Yep. Mezac or 'pot metal'

Copper zinc alloy IIRC




--
Theres a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons
that sound good.

Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist)

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
is that similar to "muckite"?

Yep. Mezac or 'pot metal'

Copper zinc alloy IIRC

Actually Mazak. Or Zamak. Officially 95% zinc, 5% aluminium. From the days
when ally was very expensive. Known as pot metal, as easy to cast.

--
*I started out with nothing... and I still have most of it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
charles wrote:
In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris Green wrote:
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.

is that similar to "muckite"?

Often wondered why this stuff seems to rot away so easily being mainly
zinc? Zinc as a roofing material seems to have a pretty long life.

One of the worst is chrome plated fittings made with at as a base.
Corrodes away under the chrome and is near impossible to re-plate well.

--
*A plateau is a high form of flattery*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
charles wrote:
In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris Green wrote:
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.

is that similar to "muckite"?

Often wondered why this stuff seems to rot away so easily being mainly
zinc?

Go on, have a guess...
--
Jim K

On 09/04/2018 16:16, Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris wrote:
wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.



Surely it's already broken if the bit where the top hose fits has
disintegrated. It will have to be replaced - so it's extreme violence
time, but try not to damage the head.

IIRC, it's held on by 3 studs which screw into the head, with nuts and
washers on top. If you can get the studs out (use two lock-nuts if
there's enough thread) it will allow the housing to be rotated (metal
bar for leverage in what's left of the hose outlet), which may break the
seal.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Huge Wrote in message:
On 2018-04-09, Roger Mills wrote:
On 09/04/2018 16:16, Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Chris wrote:
wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

Can you get the bolts out or is that the problem?

I seem to remember that often the bolts came out OK but the housing
tended to be rather well glued in place by the gasket cement.

Do you need to preserve the thermostat housing? If not then just
break it,

Oh, you will break it, trying to get it off. They're made of cast
easilybrokium.



Surely it's already broken if the bit where the top hose fits has
disintegrated. It will have to be replaced - so it's extreme violence
time, but try not to damage the head.

IIRC, it's held on by 3 studs which screw into the head, with nuts and
washers on top. If you can get the studs out

Bwahahahaha.


As if...
--
Jim K

On 09/04/2018 15:32, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?Â* This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!

Blowlamp ?. Alloy will expand faster than the cast iron block,
then tip some cold water on it. Repeat until the bond breaks.

On 09/04/18 16:07, Andrew wrote:
On 09/04/2018 15:32, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?Â* This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!

Blowlamp ?. Alloy will expand faster than the cast iron block,
then tip some cold water on it. Repeat until the bond breaks.


+1. Think thats how I did it last time around 1974...


--
€œSome people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€�

Dennis Miller

In article ,
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!

I'd try removing the studs. But there is the chance they will snap. If you
have new ones standing by, less likely. ;-) Other thing is heat.
Obviously easier/safer with the head off the car and all water drained.

Otherwise, saw it off. Less chance of damaging things than an angle
grinder.

--
*When chemists die, they barium.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!

I'd try removing the studs. But there is the chance they will snap. If you
have new ones standing by, less likely. ;-) Other thing is heat.
Obviously easier/safer with the head off the car and all water drained.

Otherwise, saw it off. Less chance of damaging things than an angle
grinder.

Just to add, it will have corroded round the studs which is why it won't
come off. You could drill small holes down the sides of the studs to get
some penetrating oil in - just don't drill down enough to damage the
cylinder head mounting face. Use a thread sealer on the new one to prevent
future corrosion.

--
*Why is "abbreviated" such a long word?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/04/2018 15:32, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?Â* This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the water
circulation or cooling.

YouTube videos on changing the stat seem to gloss over removal of the
housing, which seems to weld itself into place!

Very common problem, studs rust and make removal very difficult.

Screwdriver between housing and head and hammer in. The cast iron head
won't usually be damaged as its so hard. The thermostat housing is
toast. It should eventually work itself off with levering from different
directions.

Get a new thermostat housing and possibly some new studs. I'm not sure
but think one stud goes into the water jacket. eBay should be a good source.

I had to drill one stud and retap to clear fragments, I can't recall the
thread! Probably 5/16 UNC

Good luck.

On Mon, 9 Apr 2018 15:32:14 +0100
Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years? This particular engine is in a 68 Traveller, and the stub for
attaching the top hose has disintegrated, which does not help the
water circulation or cooling.

The only one I've had to brute-force I managed to loosen the housing by
tapping it from side to side with a block of wood and a big hammer. I'd
already broken one of the studs and had to drill it out, they were all
badly corroded. I probably still have some spare studs kicking around,
ISTR I bought a pack of ten.

In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-04-09, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?

Violence. Then buy a new one.

New one on order, but I can't shift the old one. May have to go from
violence to extreme violence.

Feeling sorry for Son, who is 17 today, and for years has wanted to
drive the Morris. Took him out and he did well for a first time, but
had to stop due to clouds of steam.
--
Graeme

"Graeme" wrote in message
...
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-04-09, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?

Violence. Then buy a new one.

New one on order, but I can't shift the old one. May have to go from
violence to extreme violence.

Feeling sorry for Son, who is 17 today, and for years has wanted to drive
the Morris. Took him out and he did well for a first time, but had to
stop due to clouds of steam.

I have sympathy for your son. One of the first times I went out driving with
my dad (on L plates) the throttle cable on my mum's car jammed fully open as
I was going up a steep hill. First noticed when the car shot forwards as I
changed up into third and then fourth. I did the right thing: brake in gear
and very gently turn off ignition in case it enabled steering lock (*); I
resisted the temptation to press the clutch which would have removed any
mechanical load and engine would probably have overspeeded and damaged
itself (eg excessive load on conn rods or crankshaft)..

Good luck in fixing the problem.

(*) Apparently this doesn't happen until you remove the key, but I wasn't to
know.

On Monday, 9 April 2018 16:14:43 UTC+1, NY wrote:

I have sympathy for your son. One of the first times I went out driving with
my dad (on L plates) the throttle cable on my mum's car jammed fully open as
I was going up a steep hill. First noticed when the car shot forwards as I
changed up into third and then fourth. I did the right thing: brake in gear
and very gently turn off ignition in case it enabled steering lock (*); I
resisted the temptation to press the clutch which would have removed any
mechanical load and engine would probably have overspeeded and damaged
itself (eg excessive load on conn rods or crankshaft)..

Good luck in fixing the problem.

(*) Apparently this doesn't happen until you remove the key, but I wasn't to
know.

just be aware that's not the case for a lot of cars.


NT

key, but I
wasn't to know.

just be aware that's not the case for a lot of cars.


NT

Had a similar thing with a BMC - the Earth Strap had a bad connection and
ithen starting the throttle cable would get hot and melt the nylon lining
of the outer cable causing it to stick. Once cool it would free off again.

Almost as obscure as the Antifreeze label being drawn ocer the intake of
the air cleaner when on a motorway and causing the engine to loose power
unti the label unstuck.

In article ,
Huge wrote:
Had a similar thing with a BMC - the Earth Strap had a bad connection
and ithen starting the throttle cable would get hot and melt the
nylon lining of the outer cable causing it to stick. Once cool it
would free off again.

I had this happen on a Rover SD1, except it didn't free off again
properly. I drove the car home with a "binary" throttle setting -
"roar!" coast "roar!" coast [repeat for an hour or so)

Same here - on mine the ground strap was short and mounted on the
alternator bracket. Just in the place to get knocked when changing a fan
belt. Or draining the cooling system, via the bottom hose. And it
eventually pulled out of its crimped terminal, and grounded via the
throttle cable. Which melted. Made up a longer ground strap using nice
flexible welding cable and routed it out of the way.

--
*I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote in message
...
On Monday, 9 April 2018 16:14:43 UTC+1, NY wrote:

I have sympathy for your son. One of the first times I went out driving
with
my dad (on L plates) the throttle cable on my mum's car jammed fully open
as
I was going up a steep hill. First noticed when the car shot forwards as
I
changed up into third and then fourth. I did the right thing: brake in
gear
and very gently turn off ignition in case it enabled steering lock (*); I
resisted the temptation to press the clutch which would have removed any
mechanical load and engine would probably have overspeeded and damaged
itself (eg excessive load on conn rods or crankshaft)..

Good luck in fixing the problem.

(*) Apparently this doesn't happen until you remove the key, but I wasn't
to
know.

just be aware that's not the case for a lot of cars.

Are there some cars where the steering locks as soon as the key is turned
fully off, even though it remains in the lock? I thought this was only an
old wives' tale. Evidently not.

I remember I turned the key cautiously until it first reached the point
where the engine stopped running under power - probably when the LT circuit
to the distributor was broken, but I thought afterwards that I was being
over-cautious. Perhaps I was wise to be so cautious.

On another occasion the gear lever came off in my hand and I uttered the
immortal words "Is it supposed to do that?". It was a Renault 6 with a
hockey-stick gear lever (like on a Citroen 2CV) which ran along the top of
the engine and enmeshed with a conventional gear lever sticking out of the
gearbox which was between the engine and the radiator. The gear lever rod
was welded to a plate with a large hole in, with the rod on the gearbox
going through it, cushioned by a rubber grommet. The grommet had fallen out,
allowing the plate to disengage from the rod as I went into reverse while
doing a three-point turn, so when I discovered it, the car was completely
blocking a road. Talk about embarrassing...

On Monday, 9 April 2018 18:21:41 UTC+1, NY wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Monday, 9 April 2018 16:14:43 UTC+1, NY wrote:

I have sympathy for your son. One of the first times I went out driving
with
my dad (on L plates) the throttle cable on my mum's car jammed fully open
as
I was going up a steep hill. First noticed when the car shot forwards as
I
changed up into third and then fourth. I did the right thing: brake in
gear
and very gently turn off ignition in case it enabled steering lock (*); I
resisted the temptation to press the clutch which would have removed any
mechanical load and engine would probably have overspeeded and damaged
itself (eg excessive load on conn rods or crankshaft)..

Good luck in fixing the problem.

(*) Apparently this doesn't happen until you remove the key, but I wasn't
to
know.

just be aware that's not the case for a lot of cars.

Are there some cars where the steering locks as soon as the key is turned
fully off, even though it remains in the lock? I thought this was only an
old wives' tale. Evidently not.

Vast numbers of them. I can't say all mine have been that way as not all had steering locks.


I remember I turned the key cautiously until it first reached the point
where the engine stopped running under power - probably when the LT circuit
to the distributor was broken, but I thought afterwards that I was being
over-cautious. Perhaps I was wise to be so cautious.

On another occasion the gear lever came off in my hand and I uttered the
immortal words "Is it supposed to do that?". It was a Renault 6 with a
hockey-stick gear lever (like on a Citroen 2CV) which ran along the top of
the engine and enmeshed with a conventional gear lever sticking out of the
gearbox which was between the engine and the radiator. The gear lever rod
was welded to a plate with a large hole in, with the rod on the gearbox
going through it, cushioned by a rubber grommet. The grommet had fallen out,
allowing the plate to disengage from the rod as I went into reverse while
doing a three-point turn, so when I discovered it, the car was completely
blocking a road. Talk about embarrassing...

could be a lot worse. Cars have killed many millions.


NT

On 09/04/2018 15:34, Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?

Violence. Then buy a new one.


Ha! Last time I did this I did end up with a new housing - plastic IIRC.

From memory I have succeeded by soaking with penetrating fluid to liven
up what's left of the gasket (or O ring?), and taps with a rubber
mallet. Just don't be tempted to pry it off and damage the mating surface.

--
Cheers, Rob

On 09/04/2018 15:45, RJH wrote:
On 09/04/2018 15:34, Huge wrote:
On 2018-04-09, Graeme wrote:

Any tips for removing a housing that has been in place for many (25+)
years?

Violence. Then buy a new one.


Ha! Last time I did this I did end up with a new housing - plastic IIRC.

From memory I have succeeded by soaking with penetrating fluid to liven
up what's left of the gasket (or O ring?), and taps with a rubber
mallet. Just don't be tempted to pry it off and damage the mating surface.

+1, and/or break it.

The KEY point is not to try prying, and damaging the mating surface.