I've recently bought some ex broadcast monitoring loudspeakers. Unseen,
from Ebay. Pics showed them to be black which I assumed had been done for
use in a TV studio. As all the others I've seen are teak veneer on a ply
casing.

On collecting them, they are in very much better condition cosmetically
than the advert suggested. And by looking at the badges, appear to be
factory back finish. But simply a paint job over the original teak, which
is showing through on some edges.

Being painted, they don't look as good as a say true black ash veneer, so
I'd like to remove the paint to see what they are like underneath it. As
even if kept black, would benefit from a total re-paint.

So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage to
the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering them.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Just out of interest, what kind of speakers are they?

Charles F


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I've recently bought some ex broadcast monitoring loudspeakers. Unseen,
from Ebay. Pics showed them to be black which I assumed had been done for
use in a TV studio. As all the others I've seen are teak veneer on a ply
casing.

On collecting them, they are in very much better condition cosmetically
than the advert suggested. And by looking at the badges, appear to be
factory back finish. But simply a paint job over the original teak, which
is showing through on some edges.

Being painted, they don't look as good as a say true black ash veneer, so
I'd like to remove the paint to see what they are like underneath it. As
even if kept black, would benefit from a total re-paint.

So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage to
the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering them.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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"Charles F" wrote in message
news
Just out of interest, what kind of speakers are they?

Charles F


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I've recently bought some ex broadcast monitoring loudspeakers. Unseen,
from Ebay. Pics showed them to be black which I assumed had been done for
use in a TV studio. As all the others I've seen are teak veneer on a ply
casing.

On collecting them, they are in very much better condition cosmetically
than the advert suggested. And by looking at the badges, appear to be
factory back finish. But simply a paint job over the original teak, which
is showing through on some edges.

Being painted, they don't look as good as a say true black ash veneer, so
I'd like to remove the paint to see what they are like underneath it. As
even if kept black, would benefit from a total re-paint.

So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage to
the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering them.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Sorry, not thinking, top replies are wrong for newsgroups! So:

Just out of interest, what kind of speakers are they?

Charles F


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In article ,
Charles F wrote:
Just out of interest, what kind of speakers are they?

BBC LS 5/8.

--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Charles F wrote:
Just out of interest, what kind of speakers are they?

BBC LS 5/8.

--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Good speakers - not necessarily dramatic or fashionable, but low colouration
and accurate. Best of luck with the repaint, and hope you enjoy using them.

Charles F


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In article ,
Charles F wrote:
Good speakers - not necessarily dramatic or fashionable, but low
colouration and accurate. Best of luck with the repaint, and hope you
enjoy using them.

Not fashionable? Check out the asking prices on Ebay when they come up. ;-)

--
*Why is the third hand on the watch called a second hand?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Charles F wrote:
Good speakers - not necessarily dramatic or fashionable, but low
colouration and accurate. Best of luck with the repaint, and hope you
enjoy using them.

Not fashionable? Check out the asking prices on Ebay when they come up.
;-)

--
*Why is the third hand on the watch called a second hand?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Ah, but that's from the cognoscenti!

We did have couple of pairs of 5/8s in dubbing, until they got replaced by
big Tannoys, whose main benefit was that they were unbreakable.....

Charles F


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On 26/03/18 14:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage to
the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering them.


Is the paint water based or oil?

https://www.seattlepi.com/news/artic...is-1218114.php

Then

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...moval_of_Paint

--
Adrian C

On Tuesday, 27 March 2018 17:33:13 UTC+1, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 26/03/18 14:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage to
the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering them.


Is the paint water based or oil?

https://www.seattlepi.com/news/artic...is-1218114.php

we don't use latex afaik.

tabbypurr wrote:

Adrian Caspersz wrote:

Is the paint water based or oil?
https://www.seattlepi.com/news/artic...is-1218114.php

we don't use latex afaik.

What Americsans call latex paint, we call emulsion, afaik

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
tabbypurr wrote:

Adrian Caspersz wrote:

Is the paint water based or oil?
https://www.seattlepi.com/news/artic...is-1218114.php

we don't use latex afaik.

What Americsans call latex paint, we call emulsion, afaik


Indeed. I thought everyone qualified to comment would know that ...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
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In article ,
Adrian Caspersz wrote:
So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage
to the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering
them.


Is the paint water based or oil?

I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

--
*Warning: Dates in Calendar are closer than they appear.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 28/03/18 00:01, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Adrian Caspersz wrote:
So what would be the best way to remove the paint with minimal damage
to the veneer? I'd far rather spend time doing that than re-veneering
them.


Is the paint water based or oil?

I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

If it is real teak it might turn out easier to strip than feared - if
you are lucky. Teak is loaded with oils that are incompatible with many
finishes so it's common practice to put on a sanding sealer before
applying a proper finish. Or it might have been finished in something
like melamine which may resist good bonding with the black layer. Either
way, there's probably quite a forgiving boundary between the teak and
the black layer. If the black chips easily it might just scrape away.
Otherwise, if you can identify the right solvent to soften it up, the
softened black might be scraped away without damaging the teak below.

Nick

In article ,
Nick Odell wrote:
I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

If it is real teak it might turn out easier to strip than feared - if
you are lucky. Teak is loaded with oils that are incompatible with many
finishes so it's common practice to put on a sanding sealer before
applying a proper finish. Or it might have been finished in something
like melamine which may resist good bonding with the black layer. Either
way, there's probably quite a forgiving boundary between the teak and
the black layer. If the black chips easily it might just scrape away.
Otherwise, if you can identify the right solvent to soften it up, the
softened black might be scraped away without damaging the teak below.

Definitely no laminate. All the others I've seem are made from teak faced
ply - rather than ply then veneered afterwards. You can see this at edges
- all a stepped joint with reinforcement battens inside. They were
designed for ease of construction rather than as a perfect bit of
furniture.

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

--
*The average person falls asleep in seven minutes *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 11:19:07 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Nick Odell wrote:

I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

If it is real teak it might turn out easier to strip than feared - if
you are lucky. Teak is loaded with oils that are incompatible with many
finishes so it's common practice to put on a sanding sealer before
applying a proper finish. Or it might have been finished in something
like melamine which may resist good bonding with the black layer. Either
way, there's probably quite a forgiving boundary between the teak and
the black layer. If the black chips easily it might just scrape away.
Otherwise, if you can identify the right solvent to soften it up, the
softened black might be scraped away without damaging the teak below.

Definitely no laminate. All the others I've seem are made from teak faced
ply - rather than ply then veneered afterwards. You can see this at edges
- all a stepped joint with reinforcement battens inside. They were
designed for ease of construction rather than as a perfect bit of
furniture.

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.


NT

wrote:

Dave Plowman wrote:

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 15:26:30 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Andy Burns Wrote in message:
tabbypurr wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

I think he's already been sniffing something fairly strong...

wrong yet again. FWIW drug sniffers are seldom into diy.
I take it you have no constructive input on the original question.
Cue more of your blather.


NT

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
wrote:

Dave Plowman wrote:

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

I think he's already been sniffing something fairly strong...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 28/03/18 11:16, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Nick Odell wrote:
I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

If it is real teak it might turn out easier to strip than feared - if
you are lucky. Teak is loaded with oils that are incompatible with many
finishes so it's common practice to put on a sanding sealer before
applying a proper finish. Or it might have been finished in something
like melamine which may resist good bonding with the black layer. Either
way, there's probably quite a forgiving boundary between the teak and
the black layer. If the black chips easily it might just scrape away.
Otherwise, if you can identify the right solvent to soften it up, the
softened black might be scraped away without damaging the teak below.

Definitely no laminate. All the others I've seem are made from teak faced
ply - rather than ply then veneered afterwards. You can see this at edges
- all a stepped joint with reinforcement battens inside. They were
designed for ease of construction rather than as a perfect bit of
furniture.

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

Any joy with cellulose thinners? Meths? Nitrocellulose was a common
finishing material in those days - especially for custom paint jobs.

Nick

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

Dave Plowman wrote:

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

That should last me a while - thanks. Is it something you'd use yourself
on something like this? Last thing I want is to damage the wood underneath
the paint.

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

That should last me a while - thanks. Is it something you'd use yourself
on something like this?

Yes, when Nitromors was still proper Nitromors, obviously use decent PPE
and ventilation

Last thing I want is to damage the wood underneath the paint.

On real wood you used to be able to slap it on very thick to get through
layers of old paint, probably would avoid too thick and for too long on
veneer in case it can get at the glue, several light uses probably
preferred?

Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 15:26:30 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Andy Burns Wrote in message:
tabbypurr wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.

You could try the original stuff.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

I think he's already been sniffing something fairly strong...

wrong yet again. FWIW drug sniffers are seldom into diy.
I take it you have no constructive input on the original question.
Cue more of your blather.


NT


And whose "constructive input" was in this very thread...

?we don't use latex afaik.?

Rather sums you up in your own words ;-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
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On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 16:43:29 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Clo/132540466771

That should last me a while - thanks. Is it something you'd use yourself
on something like this?

Yes, when Nitromors was still proper Nitromors, obviously use decent PPE
and ventilation

Last thing I want is to damage the wood underneath the paint.

On real wood you used to be able to slap it on very thick to get through
layers of old paint, probably would avoid too thick and for too long on
veneer in case it can get at the glue, several light uses probably
preferred?

It's certainly effective, but beware its toxicity & keenness to evaporate. Plentiful ventilation is necessary.


NT

On 28/03/2018 11:16, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Nick Odell wrote:
I dunno. They date back to perhaps 1990, so before water based became
common for such things? I'd describe the finish as satin. And there
doesn't appear to be any undercoat. Looking at the odd chip with a
magnifying glass.

If it is real teak it might turn out easier to strip than feared - if
you are lucky. Teak is loaded with oils that are incompatible with many
finishes so it's common practice to put on a sanding sealer before
applying a proper finish. Or it might have been finished in something
like melamine which may resist good bonding with the black layer. Either
way, there's probably quite a forgiving boundary between the teak and
the black layer. If the black chips easily it might just scrape away.
Otherwise, if you can identify the right solvent to soften it up, the
softened black might be scraped away without damaging the teak below.

Definitely no laminate. All the others I've seem are made from teak faced
ply - rather than ply then veneered afterwards. You can see this at edges
- all a stepped joint with reinforcement battens inside. They were
designed for ease of construction rather than as a perfect bit of
furniture.

I've not had any success with current easily available paint strippers
since H&S or whatever had the formula changed.


The active material in Nitromors was Dichloromethane
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitromors

This might be worth adding to the newer stuff to make a nice cocktail:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Methylene...h/132549860243