I'm working on a table that's approx 24"x60"x4" (think torsion box)
and was planning on using 3/4" Oak plywood. Because I will be using
butt joints all around, I plan to use Ash veneer over all surfaces to
hide any edges and make it look as one piece. I understand that it's
wasteful (and expensive) to veneer over veneer, but the oak/birch ply
is the only one that seems to have a flat surface. I thought about
doing miter cuts, but that's a bit optimistic for a garage project

The question is whether I'm asking for trouble wrapping Oak-veneered
surfaces in Ash veneer? And also whether I should apply across the
grain or parallel to it? If there is a better overall approach to
this project, please let me know! I'm still learning.

"fourrings" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a table that's approx 24"x60"x4" (think torsion box)
and was planning on using 3/4" Oak plywood. Because I will be using
butt joints all around, I plan to use Ash veneer over all surfaces to
hide any edges and make it look as one piece. I understand that it's
wasteful (and expensive) to veneer over veneer, but the oak/birch ply
is the only one that seems to have a flat surface. I thought about
doing miter cuts, but that's a bit optimistic for a garage project

The question is whether I'm asking for trouble wrapping Oak-veneered
surfaces in Ash veneer? And also whether I should apply across the
grain or parallel to it? If there is a better overall approach to
this project, please let me know! I'm still learning.

I've veneered over 3/4 birch ply with no problems. The substrate
is stable and it doesn't seem to make any difference whether the
veneer is parallel or cross grain to the top layer of the ply. The
edge is a different story as the internal layers can telegraph thru the
typical thin veneer. Wrapping the edges with solid wood first solves
that. I don't bother veneering both sides of 3/4 ply and have had no
issues with warping.

Alternatively you could use MDF for the substrate. It's very flat and
usually less expensive than bitch ply. If you already have the ply that's
a different matter.
Art

I've veneered over 3/4 birch ply with no problems. *The substrate
is stable and it doesn't seem to make any difference whether the
veneer is parallel or cross grain to the top layer of the ply. *The
edge is a different story as the internal layers can telegraph thru the
typical thin veneer. *Wrapping the edges with solid wood first solves
that. *I don't bother veneering both sides of 3/4 ply and have had no
issues with warping.

Alternatively you could use MDF for the substrate. *It's very flat and
usually less expensive than bitch ply. *If you already have the ply that's
a different matter.
Art

Perfect. I'll have to keep an eye on the edges -- definitely not
something I would've thought about until too late. I plan to do an
ebony stain on it, will that help or make it worse? MDF would
definitely be perfect, but I hate working with it. Last time I made a
subwoofer cab with it, every crevice in my garage was covered in fine
dust. Plus something about using real wood makes me feel better about
quality, even if layered.

On Oct 8, 9:54*pm, fourrings wrote:
I've veneered over 3/4 birch ply with no problems. *The substrate
is stable and it doesn't seem to make any difference whether the
veneer is parallel or cross grain to the top layer of the ply. *The
edge is a different story as the internal layers can telegraph thru the
typical thin veneer. *Wrapping the edges with solid wood first solves
that. *I don't bother veneering both sides of 3/4 ply and have had no
issues with warping.

Alternatively you could use MDF for the substrate. *It's very flat and
usually less expensive than bitch ply. *If you already have the ply that's
a different matter.
Art

Perfect. *I'll have to keep an eye on the edges -- definitely not
something I would've thought about until too late. *I plan to do an
ebony stain on it, will that help or make it worse? *MDF would
definitely be perfect, but I hate working with it. *Last time I made a
subwoofer cab with it, every crevice in my garage was covered in fine
dust. *Plus something about using real wood makes me feel better about
quality, even if layered.

Ash veneer is usually thick enough not to have to worry about
telegraphing sanded end-grain. The stuff can be very crumbly though.
Making the torsion box out of 3/4" is overkill. imnsho. Maybe the
outer perimeter, but the cells and top itself would just as well be
made out of 1/2" (6x6 cells?).
If you're using wood glue on ash veneer anywhere, be careful. The
stuff bleeds through. Go for the paper-backed veneer, much safer and
usually better quality.
YMWV

On Oct 9, 11:38 am, Robatoy wrote:
Ash veneer is usually thick enough not to have to worry about
telegraphing sanded end-grain. The stuff can be very crumbly though.
Making the torsion box out of 3/4" is overkill. imnsho. Maybe the
outer perimeter, but the cells and top itself would just as well be
made out of 1/2" (6x6 cells?).
If you're using wood glue on ash veneer anywhere, be careful. The
stuff bleeds through. Go for the paper-backed veneer, much safer and
usually better quality.
YMWV

Good point. My original sketch had 1/2" all around but I figured it
needed more rigidity in the frame. My reasoning is that the top has
three cutouts sized approx. 15"x15" for recessed mounting of a pair of
turntables and a mixer. Which means I only have three cells over the
whole table span. Would you still use 1/2" for the top and bottom
skins? Here's a rough drawing (top view):

+------------+---------------+------------+
| +--------+ | +---------+ | +--------+ |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| +--------+ | +---------+ | +--------+ |
+------------+---------------+------------+

On Oct 9, 12:14*pm, fourrings wrote:
On Oct 9, 11:38 am, Robatoy wrote:

Ash veneer is usually thick enough not to have to worry about
telegraphing sanded end-grain. The stuff can be very crumbly though.
Making the torsion box out of 3/4" is overkill. imnsho. Maybe the
outer perimeter, but the cells and top itself would just as well be
made out of 1/2" (6x6 cells?).
If you're using wood glue on ash veneer anywhere, be careful. The
stuff bleeds through. Go for the paper-backed veneer, much safer and
usually better quality.
YMWV

Good point. *My original sketch had 1/2" all around but I figured it
needed more rigidity in the frame. *My reasoning is that the top has
three cutouts sized approx. 15"x15" for recessed mounting of a pair of
turntables and a mixer. *Which means I only have three cells over the
whole table span. *Would you still use 1/2" for the top and bottom
skins? *Here's a rough drawing (top view):

+------------+---------------+------------+
| +--------+ | *+---------+ *| +--------+ |
| | * * * *| | *| * * * * | *| | * * * *| |
| | * * * *| | *| * * * * | *| | * * * *| |
| | * * * *| | *| * * * * | *| | * * * *| |
| +--------+ | *+---------+ *| +--------+ |
+------------+---------------+------------+

I would opt for the 3/4 in that application.