I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

On 23/01/18 18:34, wrote:
I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

get a pet fence thing that runs a wire round the place and striggers
shock collars on the dog when they get near..



--
No Apple devices were knowingly used in the preparation of this post.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

get a pet fence thing that runs a wire round the place and striggers
shock collars on the dog when they get near..

Does rather depend if he's trying to keep his dog in, or other dogs out.

On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

That's exactly what I would have said. The magic name is stock fencing.
If it's a small dog, you can get "horse netting" where the verticals are
about half the distance apart of the generic sheep netting (so that a
horse can't get a hoof through the holes). And no need for high tensile
wire, the horizontals in this sort of fencing are already high tensile.
It is worth trying to tension the net properly, though, it will be more
robust and will look better. You can get a tool for this, it is (if I
recall) a bit of galvanised angle iron with hooks to engage the net.
After stapling one end of the wire to a post with a diagonal brace, you
tension the other end with a quad or 4x4. Normally done with two men,
but I've done it single handed by using a static vehicle as the second
anchor, and using a manual winch to tension lengths prior to stapling.

Get your stakes from a farm supplies place rather than a "shed", they
will be cheaper and almost certainly better. You can get "nice looking"
ones which are machined round, but "as grown" ones with just the bark
stripped off are half the price. At our local place these are described
as "2 to 3 inch" and "3 to 4 inch", the latter are quite substantial.

With the money saved, you could probably get a couple of farm
contractors to do it, they will use a JCB or similar (either with a
power thumper, or for a 3-series just using the bucket plus the 8 tons),
and probably make a much neater job of it in a fraction of the time.
Unless the ground is very rocky they would do it in a day.

Won't the dog either dig under or jump over that?

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but also
as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80% of the
distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will run
through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before so I'd
appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded mesh,
supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

Depending on the trees, you might need to run this by the nature conservancy
folk, or environment agency in case tree roots are damaged.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

--

Chris

On 23/01/2018 20:42, Brian Gaff wrote:
Won't the dog either dig under or jump over that?

Brian

Depends on the dog. I'd expect it to keep in more than 90%.

On 23/01/2018 20:18, newshound wrote:
On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:


Here's another "horse safe" type, expect it will be pricy, though

http://www.thefenceline.co.uk/keepsafe_horse_fence.html

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 23/01/18 18:34, wrote:
I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

get a pet fence thing that runs a wire round the place and striggers
shock collars on the dog when they get near..

Useless fact No. 42,316: they're illegal in Wales.

--

Roger Hayter

On 23/01/2018 18:34, wrote:
I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

Put the straining wires in first and then use fencing crimps (hog rings)
to attach the fence as you unroll it.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/...g-stapler.html



Four foot won't stop a dog unless you chain it down.
It certainly won't stop a person.

newshound wrote:
On 23/01/2018 20:18, newshound wrote:
On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:


Here's another "horse safe" type, expect it will be pricy, though

http://www.thefenceline.co.uk/keepsafe_horse_fence.html

I was going to suggest electric fencing, we use it for our horses but
if designed right (a lower tape/wire) is very effective for dogs too.

--
Chris Green
·

On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

How big is the dog? I expect galvanised stakes last longer but are more
expensive than pressure treated 4x4 timber stakes so it is really
dependent on how often you are prepared to maintain it.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

+1 although it isn't all that stock proof if there are cows about and
they decide there is something on your side they want to eat...

I have seen cows clear a full scale 3 bar fence barbed wire and all
chased off by the allotment owner but not before they trashed his beans
and cabbages. A single spar along the top and a line of barbed wire will
discourage them but if they decide to go for it all bets are off.

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.

As TNP has pointed out a thin wire virtual fence and an active collar
would be a lot less effort if it is just to keep the dog in.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 23/01/2018 22:37, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/01/2018 18:34, wrote:
I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about
80% of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The
fence will run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a
fence before so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh
and tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

Put the straining wires in first and then use fencing crimps (hog rings)
to attach the fence as you unroll it.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/...g-stapler.html

Agreed, that's probably the easiest method if you are doing it single
handed. You will need a tool for the straining wire.





Four foot won't stop a dog unless you chain it down.
It certainly won't stop a person.


Of the many dogs I have owned, there's only one (a greyhound) that would
get over that. If they want to get through, badgers will easily dig
under it, making enough room for a fox or terrier. When I had that
problem once, I "staked" each side of the hole so that it was badger/fox
sized, but not collie sized (and that kept in a collie terrier cross
that liked digging a lot).

I've never known a spaniel, retriever, or labrador that would jump four
feet (although they could no doubt be trained to do so).

On 23/01/2018 20:18, newshound wrote:
On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

That's exactly what I would have said. The magic name is stock fencing.
If it's a small dog, you can get "horse netting" where the verticals are
about half the distance apart of the generic sheep netting (so that a
horse can't get a hoof through the holes). And no need for high tensile
wire, the horizontals in this sort of fencing are already high tensile.
It is worth trying to tension the net properly, though, it will be more
robust and will look better. You can get a tool for this, it is (if I
recall) a bit of galvanised angle iron with hooks to engage the net.
After stapling one end of the wire to a post with a diagonal brace, you
tension the other end with a quad or 4x4. Normally done with two men,
but I've done it single handed by using a static vehicle as the second
anchor, and using a manual winch to tension lengths prior to stapling.

Get your stakes from a farm supplies place rather than a "shed", they
will be cheaper and almost certainly better. You can get "nice looking"
ones which are machined round, but "as grown" ones with just the bark
stripped off are half the price. At our local place these are described
as "2 to 3 inch" and "3 to 4 inch", the latter are quite substantial.

With the money saved, you could probably get a couple of farm
contractors to do it, they will use a JCB or similar (either with a
power thumper, or for a 3-series just using the bucket plus the 8 tons),
and probably make a much neater job of it in a fraction of the time.
Unless the ground is very rocky they would do it in a day.


I've been reminded that it's to keep (future) grandchildren in as well
as the (future) dog, which will be a Border Collie, so electrification
is not an option!

Thanks for making me investigate wooden posts again - some are
guaranteed for 25 years so that is probably a better option than T
section "angle".

Having thought a bit more about this I'm going off the idea of welded
mesh because of the downslope. I don't like the verticals not being,
err, vertical and the ends would also be odd. I need something that will
"lozenge" slightly to accommodate the slope. More research needed.

On 24/01/2018 14:16, wrote:
On 23/01/2018 20:18, newshound wrote:
On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence
will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

That's exactly what I would have said. The magic name is stock
fencing. If it's a small dog, you can get "horse netting" where the
verticals are about half the distance apart of the generic sheep
netting (so that a horse can't get a hoof through the holes). And no
need for high tensile wire, the horizontals in this sort of fencing
are already high tensile. It is worth trying to tension the net
properly, though, it will be more robust and will look better. You can
get a tool for this, it is (if I recall) a bit of galvanised angle
iron with hooks to engage the net. After stapling one end of the wire
to a post with a diagonal brace, you tension the other end with a quad
or 4x4. Normally done with two men, but I've done it single handed by
using a static vehicle as the second anchor, and using a manual winch
to tension lengths prior to stapling.

Get your stakes from a farm supplies place rather than a "shed", they
will be cheaper and almost certainly better. You can get "nice
looking" ones which are machined round, but "as grown" ones with just
the bark stripped off are half the price. At our local place these are
described as "2 to 3 inch" and "3 to 4 inch", the latter are quite
substantial.

With the money saved, you could probably get a couple of farm
contractors to do it, they will use a JCB or similar (either with a
power thumper, or for a 3-series just using the bucket plus the 8
tons), and probably make a much neater job of it in a fraction of the
time. Unless the ground is very rocky they would do it in a day.


I've been reminded that it's to keep (future) grandchildren in as well
as the (future) dog, which will be a Border Collie, so electrification
is not an option!


?Effective training. Dog and kids.

In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-24, Martin Brown wrote:

[34 lines snipped]

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.

+1

Or do the whole job in rabbit wire and save on the stock fence. Lots of
sound advice above but a few more thoughts.

If you use rabbit wire, buy 48" roll and 18# ! 19# is 'kin useless.

For field fence I use HT tornado stock fence topped by 2 strands of
barbed wire. (HT because it annoys the Leathermen carrying trespassers).
You could substitute plain HT wire for the barbed if you are not
controlling livestock.

25 year fence posts would have to be pressure treated with creosote and
very expensive (X3). Dosing the bottom 18" of a cheaper treated post
with your preferred timber preservative is likely to be a good thing.


--
Tim Lamb

On 24/01/2018 12:33, Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/01/2018 19:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 18:34:26 +0000, wrote:

I need to fence a 70m boundary, mainly to stop a dog from straying but
also as a security deterrent. The land is reasonably flat for about 80%
of the distance and then slopes down at about 20 degrees. The fence will
run through trees so won't be visible. I haven't erected a fence before
so I'd appreciate some guidance.
My plan is to use 6ft galvanized stakes, with 2ft in postcrete and 4ft
above ground, and with suitable braces at the ends and changes of
direction or slope. The fencing will be 4ft (1220) galvanized welded
mesh, supported by 3 or 4 lengths of HT wire woven through the mesh and
tensioned between the stakes.

How big is the dog? I expect galvanised stakes last longer but are more
expensive than pressure treated 4x4 timber stakes so it is really
dependent on how often you are prepared to maintain it.
This is just one boundary (the others are longer!) so I'd prefer to do
it once and have it last 20 years.

Is this sensible? Is there a better (i.e. easier, cheaper, or more
effective) way of doing it?

I'm no expert on fencing, but all that sounds a bit OTT to me just for
a dog. Why not use standard pig netting or similar stock fencing
http://bit.ly/2rzbHVl , strung between proper pressure-treated wooden
posts, driven in with manual post driver/thumper http://bit.ly/2n6AeMZ
or hire a portable mechanical driver like this http://bit.ly/2F5ByWS

+1Â* although it isn't all that stock proof if there are cows about and
they decide there is something on your side they want to eat...

I have seen cows clear a full scale 3 bar fence barbed wire and all
chased off by the allotment owner but not before they trashed his beans
and cabbages. A single spar along the top and a line of barbed wire will
discourage them but if they decide to go for it all bets are off.

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.
The rabbits are already present, breeding and active :-(

As TNP has pointed out a thin wire virtual fence and an active collar
would be a lot less effort if it is just to keep the dog in.

On 24/01/2018 15:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-24, Martin Brown wrote:

[34 lines snipped]

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.

+1

Or do the whole job in rabbit wire and save on the stock fence. Lots of
sound advice above but a few more thoughts.

If you use rabbit wire, buy 48" roll and 18# ! 19# is 'kin useless.
Please can you explain "18# ! 19#"


For field fence I use HT tornado stock fence topped by 2 strands of
barbed wire. (HT because it annoys the Leathermen carrying trespassers).
You could substitute plain HT wire for the barbed if you are not
controlling livestock.
Thanks! That led me to this:
http://www.tornadowire.co.uk/wp-cont...-122-8-web.pdf
- interesting!

25 year fence posts would have to be pressure treated with creosote and
very expensive (X3). Dosing the bottom 18" of a cheaper treated post
with your preferred timber preservative is likely to be a good thing.
These have a 25 year guarantee and don't seem too expensive:
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/p...fered-jakcured

In message ,
writes
On 24/01/2018 15:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-24, Martin Brown wrote:

[34 lines snipped]

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.

+1
Or do the whole job in rabbit wire and save on the stock fence. Lots
of sound advice above but a few more thoughts.
If you use rabbit wire, buy 48" roll and 18# ! 19# is 'kin useless.
Please can you explain "18# ! 19#"

Wire gauge. Much cheap wire netting is 19#. Where it blocks an
established Rabbit route, persistent nibbling fractures the strands:-(

For field fence I use HT tornado stock fence topped by 2 strands of
barbed wire. (HT because it annoys the Leathermen carrying
trespassers). You could substitute plain HT wire for the barbed if
you are not controlling livestock.
Thanks! That led me to this:
http://www.tornadowire.co.uk/wp-cont...-122-8-web.pdf
- interesting!
25 year fence posts would have to be pressure treated with creosote
and very expensive (X3). Dosing the bottom 18" of a cheaper treated
post with your preferred timber preservative is likely to be a good
thing.
These have a 25 year guarantee and don't seem too expensive:
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/p...-long-75mm-dia
-machine-rounded-fencing-tree-stake-pointed-chamfered-jakcured

Jacksons are an upmarket supplier but I don't think any treated softwood
post will actually last 25 years in normal soil unless pressure
impregnated with creosote. Actually the post and rail fencing on our
by-pass is still sound after 41 years and not creosote. Whatever they
used smells a bit like mothballs and stops the wood burning!

--
Tim Lamb

get a pet fence thing that runs a wire round the place and striggers
shock collars on the dog when they get near..



Just for info - illegal in Wales !!

I've been reminded that it's to keep (future) grandchildren in as well
as the (future) dog, which will be a Border Collie, so electrification
is not an option!
If its a Border Collie - think carefully about how high you will need
the fence.

Maybe deer netting rather than standard stock netting.
Make sure your end and probably a middle post are large "strainers" with
supporting struts to take the tension of the netting.

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 20:23:44 +0000, Robert wrote:

get a pet fence thing that runs a wire round the place and striggers
shock collars on the dog when they get near..



Just for info - illegal in Wales !!

And soon elsewhere.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 26/01/2018 09:31, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , writes
On 24/01/2018 15:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-24, Martin Brown wrote:

[34 lines snipped]

You might also want to put a finer grade of chicken wire lower down
and
buried to keep rabbits out if you intend to have a garden or vegetable
patch. Just one rabbit can do a surprising amount of damage overnight.

+1
Â*Or do the whole job in rabbit wire and save on the stock fence. Lots
ofÂ* sound advice above but a few more thoughts.
Â*If you use rabbit wire, buy 48" roll and 18# ! 19# is 'kin useless.
Please can you explain "18# ! 19#"

Wire gauge. Much cheap wire netting is 19#. Where it blocks an
established Rabbit route, persistent nibbling fractures the strands:-(
Thanks

Â*For field fence I use HT tornado stock fence topped by 2 strands of
barbed wire. (HT because it annoys the Leathermen carrying
trespassers).Â* You could substitute plain HT wire for the barbed if
you are notÂ* controlling livestock.
Thanks! That led me to this:
http://www.tornadowire.co.uk/wp-cont...-122-8-web.pdf
- interesting!
Â*25 year fence posts would have to be pressure treated with creosote
andÂ* very expensive (X3). Dosing the bottom 18" of a cheaper treated
postÂ* with your preferred timber preservative is likely to be a good
thing.
These have a 25 year guarantee and don't seem too expensive:
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/p...-long-75mm-dia
-machine-rounded-fencing-tree-stake-pointed-chamfered-jakcured

Jacksons are an upmarket supplier but I don't think any treated softwood
post will actually last 25 years in normal soil unless pressure
impregnated with creosote. Actually the post and rail fencingÂ* on our
by-pass is still sound after 41 years and not creosote. Whatever they
used smells a bit like mothballs and stops the wood burning!

Robert wrote:


I've been reminded that it's to keep (future) grandchildren in as well
as the (future) dog, which will be a Border Collie, so electrification
is not an option!
If its a Border Collie - think carefully about how high you will need
the fence.

Which is one way an electric fence can work. We had a collie cross
who used to jump out until we put an electric wire along the top of
the existing fence. After one attempt at that he never tried to jump
the fence again.

--
Chris Green
·