The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?


--
Michael Chare

Michael Chare wrote:

The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Short length of 4x2 timber with a circular saw cut down the middle?

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.

on 09/10/2017, Michael Chare supposed :
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm. This
is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking points on
my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the end of
a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the car
but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did try to
put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to the seam weld
cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its body underseal
coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally only
about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there is the
problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest on
the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not perfectly
centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

I made a wooden block to fit my trolley jack's cup. Steel on wood is
less likely to slip, than steel on steel and it also avoids damage to
paint.

Michael Chare wrote:

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Hockey pucks are quoted as being good for making custom jacking pads from.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

In article ,
Michael Chare wrote:
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Bit of decent wood between jack and car.

--
*Never miss a good chance to shut up *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/10/2017 21:47, Scott M wrote:
Michael Chare wrote:

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Hockey pucks are quoted as being good for making custom jacking pads from.


That is quite an interesting idea, I found a youtube video. My main
problem is cutting a hole in the middle about 3cm in diameter and 1 cm
deep.

--
Michael Chare

On 09/10/2017 21:47, Scott M wrote:
Michael Chare wrote:

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Hockey pucks are quoted as being good for making custom jacking pads from.

^^^^This. Get an ice hockey puck, cut a groove in it.

On 09/10/17 21:02, Michael Chare wrote:
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?



Same problem here - motoring forums talk of buying a (ice) hockey puck
and sawing a groove down the middle to accommodate the seam. Not tried
that...

Don't know why they can just weld a box cup at 4 points to hold a jack's
cup and equally, the small car jack. Or the most secu a box tube in
the centre of each side and the car jack has a square bar. Very
difficult for that to slip and a trolley jack takes it from underneath.

Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/10/2017 21:47, Scott M wrote:
Michael Chare wrote:

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?

Hockey pucks are quoted as being good for making custom jacking pads
from.


That is quite an interesting idea, I found a youtube video. My main
problem is cutting a hole in the middle about 3cm in diameter and 1 cm
deep.


You need a boring tool or hinge cutter - see:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cutting-Hin.../dp/B00REIK7YU

.... or similar.

--
Graham J

Michael Chare wrote:
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?



A couple of ink erasers, cut into sort of semicircular shapes, and
arranged in the cup of the jack?

On 09-Oct-17 9:02 PM, Michael Chare wrote:
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?


Depends on your "seam" weld jacking points.

Some cars have extra thick bit of sill seam that can be jacked on.

Nissan must never be jacked on the sill seam. The jacking point is
behind the seam at the notch in the seam and is reinforced angle welded
to floor and inner sill. The service jack top is like a box section with
a slot in it. It only jacks on the inner edge, the outside of the jack
top should not contact the sill paint.

For a 2 post lift with 4 arms they do show a slotted "lift pad" used on
the service jack points.

Once jacked on the seam it is crushed, the paint is broken and rot sets
in to the sill quite soon after. Then the jack goes though the sill/floor.

Seam jack point is usually for the service jack found in the boot/spare.
Trolley jack should be used on the jacking points that will be found in
the workshop manual. Usually the front and rear subframe. Otherwise use
the axle stand points which again are in the service manual. Usually
chassis rails or for some cars with torsion beam rear axles on the beam.

You can bore a hole in a hockey puck with a hole saw. Or just chain
drill some holes, then join them up with a hacksaw.