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Peter Hill[_3_] Peter Hill[_3_] is offline
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Default Using a trolley jack with seam weld jacking points.

On 09-Oct-17 9:02 PM, Michael Chare wrote:
The saddle of my Sealey low entry jack has an external diameter of 11cm.
This is only slightly smaller than the length of the seam weld jacking
points on my replacement the car.

The jack saddle is bowl shaped but there is a lump in the middle, the
end of a shaft that goes down into the rest of the jack.

I tried to use a Sealey rubber pad. This does not take the weight of the
car but just gets compressed to the level of edges of the saddle. I did
try to put some washers under the centre of the pad. This just lead to
the seam weld cutting through the rubber pad and loosing some of its
body underseal coating.

I have seen many rubber pads on ebay with a grove. These are generally
only about 7cm in diameter which is a bit small for my jack. Also there
is the problem of the lump in the centre of the saddle.

I now plan to use a bit of steel channel about 6" long which should rest
on the jack saddle and take the weight of the car even if it is not
perfectly centred.

Any other suggestions as to how to solve this problem?



Depends on your "seam" weld jacking points.

Some cars have extra thick bit of sill seam that can be jacked on.

Nissan must never be jacked on the sill seam. The jacking point is
behind the seam at the notch in the seam and is reinforced angle welded
to floor and inner sill. The service jack top is like a box section with
a slot in it. It only jacks on the inner edge, the outside of the jack
top should not contact the sill paint.

For a 2 post lift with 4 arms they do show a slotted "lift pad" used on
the service jack points.

Once jacked on the seam it is crushed, the paint is broken and rot sets
in to the sill quite soon after. Then the jack goes though the sill/floor.

Seam jack point is usually for the service jack found in the boot/spare.
Trolley jack should be used on the jacking points that will be found in
the workshop manual. Usually the front and rear subframe. Otherwise use
the axle stand points which again are in the service manual. Usually
chassis rails or for some cars with torsion beam rear axles on the beam.

You can bore a hole in a hockey puck with a hole saw. Or just chain
drill some holes, then join them up with a hacksaw.