7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Andy C

In article ,
Andy Cap writes:

7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Max current for an inductive load.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 16/12/16 16:49, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Andy Cap writes:

7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Max current for an inductive load.


Thanks.

So what would that mean in practical terms i.e.
what equipment can and can't be used with it
and how would the man in the street know ?

Andy Cap wrote:
On 16/12/16 16:49, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Andy Cap writes:

7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Max current for an inductive load.


Thanks.

So what would that mean in practical terms i.e.
what equipment can and can't be used with it
and how would the man in the street know ?
Avoid most motor loads. Even something like a 1hp motor would draw 10 or
more amps on start up.
Motors with a controlled start up such as modern washing machines are
possibly OK.
I suspect the 4amp rating will also apply to heavily capacitive loads
and should be thought of as a limit for Reactive loads.

As for the man in the street? Most won't know and that goes for the man
in the shop too I suspect and would be none the wiser if the restriction
was spelt out on the packaging.

On 16/12/2016 17:05, Andy Cap wrote:
On 16/12/16 16:49, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Andy Cap writes:

7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Max current for an inductive load.


Thanks.

So what would that mean in practical terms i.e.
what equipment can and can't be used with it
and how would the man in the street know ?

I have run my Liebherr fridge on one since 2010 when the
thermostat failed just as the 2 year warranty expired,
and the UK agent for Liebherr won't sell me a thermostat.

However, I find that every few days it would lose all its
settings (Smiths timer). Eventually I plugged it into
a BT surge protector that I bought in an electronic
junk shop (ex BT exchange). Problem never re-occurred,
but I never worked out what was causing it. BY the time
I has realised that the fridge wasn't running, many hours
had already passed. I don't have an wireless tat in my house
but the neighbours on the same phase might have.

So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

Andrew wrote:
On 16/12/2016 17:05, Andy Cap wrote:
On 16/12/16 16:49, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Andy Cap writes:

7 Day Digital LCD Electronic Plug-in Programmable 12/24 Hour Timer
Switch / 30ma RCD

240VAC, 13(4)A, Max. 3120W - Battery back-up - AM/PM or 24 hour display

What does the (4) indicate?

Max current for an inductive load.


Thanks.

So what would that mean in practical terms i.e.
what equipment can and can't be used with it
and how would the man in the street know ?

I have run my Liebherr fridge on one since 2010 when the
thermostat failed just as the 2 year warranty expired,
and the UK agent for Liebherr won't sell me a thermostat.

However, I find that every few days it would lose all its
settings (Smiths timer). Eventually I plugged it into
a BT surge protector that I bought in an electronic
junk shop (ex BT exchange). Problem never re-occurred,
but I never worked out what was causing it. BY the time
I has realised that the fridge wasn't running, many hours
had already passed. I don't have an wireless tat in my house
but the neighbours on the same phase might have.

So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a pain
to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use and
reliable.

On Friday, 16 December 2016 22:23:30 UTC, Capitol wrote:

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a pain
to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use and
reliable.

I wonder how long it will take the Great Public to realise that.


NT

On 16/12/16 22:23, Capitol wrote:


However, I find that every few days it would lose all its
settings (Smiths timer). Eventually I plugged it into
a BT surge protector that I bought in an electronic
junk shop (ex BT exchange). Problem never re-occurred,
but I never worked out what was causing it. BY the time
I has realised that the fridge wasn't running, many hours
had already passed. I don't have an wireless tat in my house
but the neighbours on the same phase might have.

So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a
pain to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use
and reliable.

I'm guessing you're still using a mechanical adding-machine !!

In message , Capitol
writes
Andrew wrote:
So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a
pain to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use
and reliable.

AOL!

I simply cannot get my brain around the setting instructions:-(

A sparks fitted one to control a heat recovery extract fan in a rented
flat. The tenant wanted to change the settings but neither she
(Portuguese) not I could grasp the required pin pushes to get a simple
fixed on/off daily operation.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Capitol
writes
Andrew wrote:
So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a
pain to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use
and reliable.

AOL!

I simply cannot get my brain around the setting instructions:-(

They can be a pain, and I have certainly replaced some failed
electronic ones with cheap mechanicals.

However, as I think I discussed here some time ago, what the
mechanical ones cannot do nowadays is select permanently off, or
anticipate the next switching operation, then resume as
programmed.

I also got through two digital immersion boost timers (one
replaced under warranty), only installed as back-up to my gas
heating, without ever using them in anger, and now replaced with
a mechanical timer, which doesn't even have to wear itself out by
running.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Saturday, 17 December 2016 10:47:38 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , Capitol
writes
Andrew wrote:
So beware of spurious resets if you are running something
important.

I gave all my electronic timers to the charity shop. They were a
pain to set up and change. Mechanical timers IME are cheap, easy to use
and reliable.

AOL!

I simply cannot get my brain around the setting instructions:-(

They can be a pain, and I have certainly replaced some failed
electronic ones with cheap mechanicals.

However, as I think I discussed here some time ago, what the
mechanical ones cannot do nowadays is select permanently off, or
anticipate the next switching operation, then resume as
programmed.

When the IoT ones appear you won't even have to change them twice a year for GMT etc...
And you'll be able to switch things off and on in the home while driving ;-)