I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can
anyone suggest a suitable product?

(Disconnecting the grey cable from the cooker switch might require
taking more of the kitchen apart than I would like as the cable runs
behind some tiles.)

Needless to say two of the pans that we have that I hoped might work,
actually don't work!

--
Michael Chare

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On 15/11/16 12:46, Michael Chare wrote:
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

Yes - that is indeed what happens.

2 things:

Cookers have a diversity factor applied - that means the short term
*average* total load is not assumed to be the sum of all the elements.
It might peak above 20A with a dumb hob, but cables and fuses/breakers
are quite happy with short term overloads. Damage occurs when cables and
devices overheat, and that will not happen for 10 minutes of significant
overload. Indeed, a Type B breaker (the most common) has a tripping
characteristic designed to accommodate this.

Even if you jack all rings to full power, within a few minutes things
are boiling and the full power of the ring is no longer required.



The other factor, and the one that probably applies he this is a
smart hob and the electronics can and probably will regulate the overall
load. Some are even programmable so that they will run off lower powered
circuits, right down to a 13A plug in some cases of twin hobs I've seen.

You can in general wire these hobs up to either a 20A or 32A (more
usual) hob/cooker circuit. And for a 20A hob, no reason it cannot share
a common 32A/40A single cooker circuit with an oven. Again, ovens heat
up then start duty cycling on the thermostat fairly quickly.


The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can
anyone suggest a suitable product?

Cooker flex outlet is the usual method:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CB4506.html

Can be surface mounted if required (and there is space)

(Disconnecting the grey cable from the cooker switch might require
taking more of the kitchen apart than I would like as the cable runs
behind some tiles.)

Needless to say two of the pans that we have that I hoped might work,
actually don't work!

On 15/11/2016 12:57, Tim Streater wrote:
In article , Michael Chare
wrote:

I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had
checked to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised
when I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps.
Presumably the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn
to conform to this limit.

Make sure the hob is actually configured to use 20A. Ours (Neff) came
with the default max power level of 13A, and there was a badly
documented sequence we went through to up it to 20A.


I think this one was the same. When I saw the 20 amps on a label, I
started to read the manual. Took a couple of goes to set the 20 amps limit.


--
Michael Chare

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On 15/11/2016 13:03, Tim Watts wrote:
On 15/11/16 12:46, Michael Chare wrote:
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

Yes - that is indeed what happens.

2 things:

Cookers have a diversity factor applied - that means the short term
*average* total load is not assumed to be the sum of all the elements.
It might peak above 20A with a dumb hob, but cables and fuses/breakers
are quite happy with short term overloads. Damage occurs when cables and
devices overheat, and that will not happen for 10 minutes of significant
overload. Indeed, a Type B breaker (the most common) has a tripping
characteristic designed to accommodate this.

Even if you jack all rings to full power, within a few minutes things
are boiling and the full power of the ring is no longer required.



The other factor, and the one that probably applies he this is a
smart hob and the electronics can and probably will regulate the overall
load. Some are even programmable so that they will run off lower powered
circuits, right down to a 13A plug in some cases of twin hobs I've seen.

You can in general wire these hobs up to either a 20A or 32A (more
usual) hob/cooker circuit. And for a 20A hob, no reason it cannot share
a common 32A/40A single cooker circuit with an oven. Again, ovens heat
up then start duty cycling on the thermostat fairly quickly.


The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can
anyone suggest a suitable product?

Cooker flex outlet is the usual method:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CB4506.html

Can be surface mounted if required (and there is space)

Thanks.


--
Michael Chare

---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 13:03:56 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 15/11/16 12:46, Michael Chare wrote:
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

Yes - that is indeed what happens.

2 things:

Cookers have a diversity factor applied - that means the short term
*average* total load is not assumed to be the sum of all the elements.
It might peak above 20A with a dumb hob, but cables and fuses/breakers
are quite happy with short term overloads. Damage occurs when cables and
devices overheat, and that will not happen for 10 minutes of significant
overload. Indeed, a Type B breaker (the most common) has a tripping
characteristic designed to accommodate this.

Even if you jack all rings to full power, within a few minutes things
are boiling and the full power of the ring is no longer required.



The other factor, and the one that probably applies he this is a
smart hob and the electronics can and probably will regulate the overall
load. Some are even programmable so that they will run off lower powered
circuits, right down to a 13A plug in some cases of twin hobs I've seen.

You can in general wire these hobs up to either a 20A or 32A (more
usual) hob/cooker circuit. And for a 20A hob, no reason it cannot share
a common 32A/40A single cooker circuit with an oven. Again, ovens heat
up then start duty cycling on the thermostat fairly quickly.


The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can
anyone suggest a suitable product?

Cooker flex outlet is the usual method:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CB4506.html

Can be surface mounted if required (and there is space)

(Disconnecting the grey cable from the cooker switch might require
taking more of the kitchen apart than I would like as the cable runs
behind some tiles.)

Needless to say two of the pans that we have that I hoped might work,
actually don't work!


If I can tag on my own question here gents,

Is this correct?
The manual for the budget double oven I have installed says I need a
*fused* isolator switch. They couldn't be talking about a BS1362 fuse
for a double oven, nearly 5.5kW, is the stipulation just ********?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/g3zvt/...in/dateposted/


--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On 15/11/2016 12:46, Michael Chare wrote:
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

Which coincidentally if you do the sum for diversity on a cooker - Peak
load of 45A, so take the first 10A then add 30% of the remainder, and it
neatly gives you about 20A ;-)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/11/16 14:46, Graham. wrote:
On Tue, 15 Nov 2016 13:03:56 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 15/11/16 12:46, Michael Chare wrote:
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff
ceramic hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to
find that it fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked
to ensure that there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I
made the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500,
1800 and 3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when
I found at label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably
the electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to
this limit.

Yes - that is indeed what happens.

2 things:

Cookers have a diversity factor applied - that means the short term
*average* total load is not assumed to be the sum of all the elements.
It might peak above 20A with a dumb hob, but cables and fuses/breakers
are quite happy with short term overloads. Damage occurs when cables and
devices overheat, and that will not happen for 10 minutes of significant
overload. Indeed, a Type B breaker (the most common) has a tripping
characteristic designed to accommodate this.

Even if you jack all rings to full power, within a few minutes things
are boiling and the full power of the ring is no longer required.



The other factor, and the one that probably applies he this is a
smart hob and the electronics can and probably will regulate the overall
load. Some are even programmable so that they will run off lower powered
circuits, right down to a 13A plug in some cases of twin hobs I've seen.

You can in general wire these hobs up to either a 20A or 32A (more
usual) hob/cooker circuit. And for a 20A hob, no reason it cannot share
a common 32A/40A single cooker circuit with an oven. Again, ovens heat
up then start duty cycling on the thermostat fairly quickly.


The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can
anyone suggest a suitable product?

Cooker flex outlet is the usual method:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CB4506.html

Can be surface mounted if required (and there is space)

(Disconnecting the grey cable from the cooker switch might require
taking more of the kitchen apart than I would like as the cable runs
behind some tiles.)

Needless to say two of the pans that we have that I hoped might work,
actually don't work!


If I can tag on my own question here gents,

Is this correct?
The manual for the budget double oven I have installed says I need a
*fused* isolator switch. They couldn't be talking about a BS1362 fuse
for a double oven, nearly 5.5kW, is the stipulation just ********?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/g3zvt/...in/dateposted/



They mean a fused circuit.

You won't find a fused isolator above 13A unless you go to some old
style industrial switchgear.

But don;t accidentally leave a screwdriver on the hob when you are testing
it....
Brian

--
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"Michael Chare" wrote in message
news
I am installing a new 4 ring Bosch induction hob to replace a Neff ceramic
hob where one of the rings had failed. I was very pleased to find that it
fits in the same size hole in the work top. (I had checked to ensure that
there would be no large gap.)

I did not look at the electrical specification very closely before I made
the purchase, but the manual says that the rings are 2500, 2500, 1800 and
3700 watts when boost function is used, so I was surprised when I found at
label saying that the maximum current is 20 amps. Presumably the
electronics makes sure that the rings are used in turn to conform to this
limit.

The previous hob was connect by a grey flat twin and earth that goes to
the cooker switch. The new hob has its own round cable. Ideally, I would
like to connect the cables together using a junction box which I could
mount on the wall and which has a support for the cooker cable. Can anyone
suggest a suitable product?

(Disconnecting the grey cable from the cooker switch might require taking
more of the kitchen apart than I would like as the cable runs behind some
tiles.)

Needless to say two of the pans that we have that I hoped might work,
actually don't work!

--
Michael Chare

---
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