Hello all.

Just bought a Bosch pressure washer to replace the 20 year old Wickes one
that finally bit the dust.

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

Anyone know if this is normal? Or should I take it back? Or just change the
hose fitting?

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

On 6/11/2016 1:11 PM, Paul wrote:
Hello all.

Just bought a Bosch pressure washer to replace the 20 year old Wickes one
that finally bit the dust.

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

Anyone know if this is normal? Or should I take it back? Or just change the
hose fitting?

I'm a bit confused. Every pressure washer I have seen has had a threaded
connector between the pressure hose and the machine. What you are
describing sounds like a feature of some hozelock couplings which are
only rated for domestic water (about 3 bar).

Take it back.

Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...

newshound wrote:

I'm a bit confused. Every pressure washer I have seen has had a threaded
connector between the pressure hose and the machine. What you are
describing sounds like a feature of some hozelock couplings which are
only rated for domestic water

I presumed he was talking about the mains inlet to the P/W ...

Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see it
affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:

I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction,

They don't have a particularly high flow rate.

I can't see it affecting the connector "grip".

I imagine it's the rapid shut off (solenoid valve?) of the P/W when
releasing the trigger that causes the inlet to blow off.

Andy Burns wrote:

newshound wrote:

I'm a bit confused. Every pressure washer I have seen has had a threaded
connector between the pressure hose and the machine. What you are
describing sounds like a feature of some hozelock couplings which are
only rated for domestic water

I presumed he was talking about the mains inlet to the P/W ...

Well, yes. Hence "hose pipe".

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

Tim+ wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's
nothing connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release
the trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see
it affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

Will try that, thanks. Can't find one right now, and shops all shut until
Monday.

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction,

They don't have a particularly high flow rate.

If your mains pressure isn't great an auto stop valve on the end may be
just the straw that breaks the camel's back.



I can't see it affecting the connector "grip".

I imagine it's the rapid shut off (solenoid valve?) of the P/W when
releasing the trigger that causes the inlet to blow off.


Well yes, but please share your theory as to why an auto-stop hose
connector blows off more easily than a standard one.

Tim



--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:

please share your theory as to why an auto-stop hose
connector blows off more easily than a standard one.

With a standard connector, the sudden back pressure when turning off can
be absorbed by the full length of the hose pipe.

With a waterstop connector the back-pressure is all between the valve
inside the pressure washer and the hose connector, probably on rigid
pipework, so is exerted directly onto the connector ...

Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

please share your theory as to why an auto-stop hose
connector blows off more easily than a standard one.

With a standard connector, the sudden back pressure when turning off can
be absorbed by the full length of the hose pipe.

As it can with an waterstop.


With a waterstop connector the back-pressure is all between the valve
inside the pressure washer and the hose connector, probably on rigid
pipework, so is exerted directly onto the connector ...

Wrong. A waterstop valve only occluded the pipe when it is physically
disconnected.

As long as it is connected, there is continuity.

Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:

A waterstop valve only occluded the pipe when it is physically
disconnected. As long as it is connected, there is continuity.

Fair enough, I thought it acted as a form of non-return valve too.

On Saturday, 11 June 2016 13:43:18 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 6/11/2016 1:11 PM, Paul wrote:
Hello all.

Just bought a Bosch pressure washer to replace the 20 year old Wickes one
that finally bit the dust.

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

Anyone know if this is normal? Or should I take it back? Or just change the
hose fitting?

I'm a bit confused. Every pressure washer I have seen has had a threaded
connector between the pressure hose and the machine. What you are
describing sounds like a feature of some hozelock couplings which are
only rated for domestic water (about 3 bar).

Take it back.

Mine has a hozelock connector. Male part)

Try changing the hozelock bit on your hosepipe before taking it back.
The female bit most commonly goes wrong.

On 11/06/2016 14:24, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction,

They don't have a particularly high flow rate.

I can't see it affecting the connector "grip".

I imagine it's the rapid shut off (solenoid valve?) of the P/W when
releasing the trigger that causes the inlet to blow off.


They use a pressure switch rather than a solenoid.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 11/06/2016 14:18, Tim+ wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see it
affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

The problem with the waterstop is a spring loaded N/R valve. Since the
pump sucks it forces the valve shut & stops the flow.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 11/06/2016 14:51, Paul wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's
nothing connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release
the trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see
it affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

Will try that, thanks. Can't find one right now, and shops all shut until
Monday.

Easy enough to convert it. Take it apart & remove the disc & spring.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't
see it affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably
without the waterstop feature.

The problem with the waterstop is a spring loaded N/R valve. Since
the pump sucks it forces the valve shut & stops the flow.




I don't think so Dave, The Water Stop is held open by the male part pushing
it off the seal face.

The OP probably just has a worn out or imitation Hoselock fitting. I had
some Aldo ones once that were not very good when used with a proper
hoselock although okay with each other.

David Lang wrote:
On 11/06/2016 14:18, Tim+ wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see it
affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

The problem with the waterstop is a spring loaded N/R valve.

Sorry Dave, but as I've explained, this is exactly what a waterstop valve
*isn't*.

My waterstop valves are neither spring loaded or non-return.

In normal use water flow will try to close the valve but if the hose is
connected to a male connector the male part holds the valve open. It cannot
close in this circumstance, even if suction is applied. It will introduce
some flow restriction though compared to a non-waterstop valve which is I
think the main reason for not using one with a pressure washer.


Tim

--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

But that sounds a bit counter intuitive as in effect its sucking at that
point so how can this produce the opposite effect one wonders unless its
faulty.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Paul" wrote in message
...
Andy Burns wrote:

newshound wrote:

I'm a bit confused. Every pressure washer I have seen has had a threaded
connector between the pressure hose and the machine. What you are
describing sounds like a feature of some hozelock couplings which are
only rated for domestic water

I presumed he was talking about the mains inlet to the P/W ...

Well, yes. Hence "hose pipe".

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

DerbyBorn wrote:


The OP probably just has a worn out or imitation Hoselock fitting. I had
some Aldo ones once that were not very good when used with a proper
hoselock although okay with each other.

I swapped it for another which works just fine.

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

David Lang wrote:

On 11/06/2016 14:51, Paul wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's
nothing connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I
release the trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see
it affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

Will try that, thanks. Can't find one right now, and shops all shut until
Monday.

Easy enough to convert it. Take it apart & remove the disc & spring.


No need. Fitted another with gismo and it works ok.

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

Paul wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:


The OP probably just has a worn out or imitation Hoselock fitting. I
had some Aldo ones once that were not very good when used with a
proper hoselock although okay with each other.

I swapped it for another which works just fine.

Yes. I have a box of these things, some work fine, some drip and some just
fall of the fitting.

On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 18:52:51 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Paul wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:


The OP probably just has a worn out or imitation Hoselock fitting. I
had some Aldo ones once that were not very good when used with a
proper hoselock although okay with each other.

I swapped it for another which works just fine.

Yes. I have a box of these things, some work fine, some drip and some just
fall of the fitting.

You have a dripping cock?

--
Why do I have to wear a shirt and tie to go in a bar to see a topless dancer?

On 12/06/2016 09:28, Tim+ wrote:
David Lang wrote:
On 11/06/2016 14:18, Tim+ wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Paul wrote:

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

My Nilfisk specifically recommended not using the "waterstop" type hose
connector onto the pressure washer ...




I imagine that's just because of potential flow restriction, I can't see it
affecting the connector "grip".

To the OP, I'd just try a different hosepipe fitting, preferably without
the waterstop feature.

The problem with the waterstop is a spring loaded N/R valve.

Sorry Dave, but as I've explained, this is exactly what a waterstop valve
*isn't*.

My waterstop valves are neither spring loaded or non-return.

In normal use water flow will try to close the valve but if the hose is
connected to a male connector the male part holds the valve open. It cannot
close in this circumstance, even if suction is applied. It will introduce
some flow restriction though compared to a non-waterstop valve which is I
think the main reason for not using one with a pressure washer.


Tim


I had trouble with a Hozelock branded fitting.
The swivelling of the spray head had worn the moving bit down and then
it didn't stay open when you plugged it in. Cheap plastic inside an
alloy shell that I won't recommend.

On Saturday, 11 June 2016 13:11:36 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
Hello all.

Just bought a Bosch pressure washer to replace the 20 year old Wickes one
that finally bit the dust.

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

Anyone know if this is normal? Or should I take it back? Or just change the
hose fitting?

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

hi paul
got the same problem on my bosch works ok on standard connection but spits the valve type connection off does the same on titan pressure washer

used a male to male connector and a small extension hose using standard valves
No more problems
wanted to keep the valve connector on my garden hose reel
seems to me it is the design of the male connection on the newer pressure washers that is the problem ?? [retired engineer ]

On 23/04/2019 22:36, wrote:
On Saturday, 11 June 2016 13:11:36 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
Hello all.

Just bought a Bosch pressure washer to replace the 20 year old Wickes one
that finally bit the dust.

The hose pipe has the "safety" connection that closes when there's nothing
connected. I switch the machine on and all well, until I release the
trigger, when the hose connector pops off the machine.

Anyone know if this is normal? Or should I take it back? Or just change the
hose fitting?

--

Paul.
https://paulc.es

hi paul
got the same problem on my bosch works ok on standard connection but spits the valve type connection off does the same on titan pressure washer

used a male to male connector and a small extension hose using standard valves
No more problems
wanted to keep the valve connector on my garden hose reel
seems to me it is the design of the male connection on the newer pressure washers that is the problem ?? [retired engineer ]

Inlet hose or outlet?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman

TMH wrote:

wrote:

seems to me it is the design of the male connection on the newer
pressure washers that is the problem ??Â* [retired engineer ]

Inlet hose or outlet?

My hose reel is fitted with a "waterstop" connector at the end, my
nilfisk pressure washer will sometimes pop the connector off its inlet
if the connector isn't pushed-on cleanly.

Making sure the connector is pushed on firmly and squarely, then giving
it a twist and a tug to check is generally enough to make sure it stays on.

On 24/04/2019 07:32, Andy Burns wrote:
TMH wrote:

wrote:

seems to me it is the design of the male connection on the newer
pressure washers that is the problem ??Â* [retired engineer ]

Inlet hose or outlet?

My hose reel is fitted with a "waterstop" connector at the end, my
nilfisk pressure washer will sometimes pop the connector off its inlet
if the connector isn't pushed-on cleanly.

Making sure the connector is pushed on firmly and squarely, then giving
it a twist and a tug to check is generally enough to make sure it stays on.

The male part of the hose connection on my pressure washer is screwed on
and the washer itself has the same thread as a garden tap. My hose used
to pop off as well and simply changing both the male and female hose
connectors for a new, matched pair solved it. Wear in either component,
slight size or shape differences from different manufacturers, even dirt
in the retaining mechanism, can all cause problems.

SteveW

On 24/04/2019 07:32, Andy Burns wrote:
TMH wrote:

wrote:

seems to me it is the design of the male connection on the newer
pressure washers that is the problem ??Â* [retired engineer ]

Inlet hose or outlet?

My hose reel is fitted with a "waterstop" connector at the end, my
nilfisk pressure washer will sometimes pop the connector off its inlet
if the connector isn't pushed-on cleanly.

Making sure the connector is pushed on firmly and squarely, then giving
it a twist and a tug to check is generally enough to make sure it stays on.

The waterstop connector is causing the problem, replace it or remove the
disc & spring.

--
Dave
The Medway Handyman

TMH wrote:

The waterstop connector is causing the problem

I realise that, the P/W instructions do recommend against using one.

replace it or remove the disc & spring.

But I like having the waterstop end so I can switch from P/W to rinsing
with a hoze nozzle without going back to turn off at the tap, and with
care when connecting, it's rarely a problem.

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 11:56:31 AM UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
TMH wrote:

The waterstop connector is causing the problem

I realise that, the P/W instructions do recommend against using one.

replace it or remove the disc & spring.

But I like having the waterstop end so I can switch from P/W to rinsing
with a hoze nozzle without going back to turn off at the tap, and with
care when connecting, it's rarely a problem.

I just fold my hose to stop the water if I want to change an attachment. I find the waterstop valves too restrictive.

Tim

On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 11:56:27 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

But I like having the waterstop end so I can switch from P/W to rinsing
with a hoze nozzle without going back to turn off at the tap, and with
care when connecting, it's rarely a problem.

Just saying- there's quick-connect things without waterstop but a full-bore ball
valve instead.

Googling says it's a "Hose Connector with Control Valve".


Thomas Prufer