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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#161
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OT - Car Specifications
NY wrote:
No, it's CRAP. At least it is on our Honda CR-V (with manual transmission). Whenever you stop on a slight slope, initially using the footbrake, then apply the handbrake and release the footbrake, the car rolls a few inches and then comes to an abrupt lurching stop. There seems to be no way to avoid this; all you can do is release the footbrake gently so the car rolls slowly and doesn't hit the end-stop so violently. I've reported it to the Honda garage where we bought the car, and they have checked it and found it to be "within spec". They say it's a side-effect of having hill-start assist to prevent the car rolling back for people who haven't mastered a hill start (which is a requirement of passing the driving test!). I'm very surprised that this amount of play in the handbrake mechanism is regarded as acceptable and that Honda are happy to put their name and their reputation on the line. Every other car I've driven (over the past 35 years) has had no play in the handbrake: if you come to a halt on the footbrake, apply the handbrake and release the footbrake, the car stays put and doesn't move. I'm assuming that the car is in neutral or the clutch is pressed so that the transmission doesn't act as a brake or (if the engine is running) make the car lurch forward when you let the clutch up. I had a couple of Volvo 240s (long before hill start assist), and they had exactly this behaviour. I assumed that, one you took your foot off the brake pedal, and you were held only on the rear brake, the suspension wound up. It was only ever a problem trying to position the towball under the caravan hitch whilst going uphill. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Plant amazing Acers. |
#162
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OT - Car Specifications
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
I understand the base version of mine, often as not, came with the wiring in place for most of the options even if not installed. The one option mine ommitted was electric rear screen blind. I don't really see a need for that lol When I had a Mk3 Mondeo, the fittings were in place for the foot well illumination, just needed the bulbs inserting. ;-) Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Plant amazing Acers. |
#163
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OT - Car Specifications
"Tim Streater" wrote in message
.. . Ha! Not in Morse's MK2 Jag, though, eh, where the speedo needle fluctuated wildly. There's some in-car footage in one of the episodes of The Sweeney where a baddy was driving a S-Type Jag and the speedo needle is all over the place. Not sure whether that was normal or whether the speedo was f*cked because they tended to use cars that were about to be scrapped for any car chase sequences. |
#164
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OT - Car Specifications
On 08/06/16 12:59, NY wrote:
"Tim Streater" wrote in message .. . Ha! Not in Morse's MK2 Jag, though, eh, where the speedo needle fluctuated wildly. There's some in-car footage in one of the episodes of The Sweeney where a baddy was driving a S-Type Jag and the speedo needle is all over the place. Not sure whether that was normal or whether the speedo was f*cked because they tended to use cars that were about to be scrapped for any car chase sequences. The old eddy current speedos were very prone to get bits of magnetic material between the magnet and the eddy plate. BTW Wiki reveals this: ------------8 United Kingdom A speedometer showing mph and km/h along with an odometer and a separate "trip" odometer (both showing distance traveled in miles). The amended Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 permits the use of speedometers that meet either the requirements of EC Council Directive 75/443 (as amended by Directive 97/39) or UNECE Regulation 39.[14] The Motor Vehicles (Approval) Regulations 2001[15] permits single vehicles to be approved. As with the UNECE regulation and the EC Directives, the speedometer must *never show an indicated speed less than the actual speed*. However it differs slightly from them in specifying that for all actual speeds between 25 mph and 70 mph (or the vehicles' maximum speed if it is lower than this), the indicated speed must not exceed 110% of the actual speed, plus 6.25 mph. For example, if the vehicle is actually travelling at 50 mph, the speedometer must not show more than 61.25 mph or less than 50 mph. 8------------------------------------------ So speedos are DELIBERATELY designed such that no combination of tyres pressures and loads will ever result in them under reading, and they can in fact overread by MASSIVE amounts and still be 'street legal' So the next time you are sitting in the fast lane at what you think is 70, bear in mind you might be doing no more than 58mph... Irrespective of how that is arrived at, unless you are using GPS or doppler you WILL be counting rotations of prop shaft or wheel, so the tyre loading/pressure/make/wear issues are all still in the mix. -- "What do you think about Gay Marriage?" "I don't." "Don't what?" "Think about Gay Marriage." |
#165
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OT - Car Specifications
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
... So speedos are DELIBERATELY designed such that no combination of tyres pressures and loads will ever result in them under reading, and they can in fact overread by MASSIVE amounts and still be 'street legal' So the next time you are sitting in the fast lane at what you think is 70, bear in mind you might be doing no more than 58mph... Irrespective of how that is arrived at, unless you are using GPS or doppler you WILL be counting rotations of prop shaft or wheel, so the tyre loading/pressure/make/wear issues are all still in the mix. By comparison with a GPS speedo app on my mobile phone, my car's speedo seems to over-read by a near-constant 5 mph over the 20-80 range, so I know that I can still be legal when the speedo reads 35, 65, or 75 (for 30, 60 and 70 limits respectively). I gather that normally the over-reading is proportional to the speed, so a constant error of +5 is unusual. How much error do you get by tyre wear? For 225/65R17 tyres, the outside diameter is 2 * 65% of 225 mm plus 17 inches which is 725 mm. If tyres have about 8 mm tread when new and it reduces to 1.6 mm before replacement, that means that the error is 2*(8-1.6)/725 = 1.7% |
#166
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OT - Car Specifications
On 08/06/16 14:10, NY wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... So speedos are DELIBERATELY designed such that no combination of tyres pressures and loads will ever result in them under reading, and they can in fact overread by MASSIVE amounts and still be 'street legal' So the next time you are sitting in the fast lane at what you think is 70, bear in mind you might be doing no more than 58mph... Irrespective of how that is arrived at, unless you are using GPS or doppler you WILL be counting rotations of prop shaft or wheel, so the tyre loading/pressure/make/wear issues are all still in the mix. By comparison with a GPS speedo app on my mobile phone, my car's speedo seems to over-read by a near-constant 5 mph over the 20-80 range, so I know that I can still be legal when the speedo reads 35, 65, or 75 (for 30, 60 and 70 limits respectively). I gather that normally the over-reading is proportional to the speed, so a constant error of +5 is unusual. How much error do you get by tyre wear? For 225/65R17 tyres, the outside diameter is 2 * 65% of 225 mm plus 17 inches which is 725 mm. If tyres have about 8 mm tread when new and it reduces to 1.6 mm before replacement, that means that the error is 2*(8-1.6)/725 = 1.7% You will get more radius variation than that by putting the MIL in the back seat. Tyres do not exhibit a 1:1 correlation with the road surface. They creep. And they stretch under pressure. -- Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend. "Saki" |
#167
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OT - Car Specifications
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 12:22:26 +0100
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: The climate control on my ancient BMW in auto mode starts with the fan just idling on a cold start. Once the coolant gets warm enough, it ramps up the fan speed to heat the cabin to the set temperature as quickly as possible. As it approaches that temperature, it ramps down to a normal quiet speed. And once at temperature, it opens the cold air vents to the face, if that's what you want. If you select the AC, it does much the same to cool the car. It works so well I very rarely touch it. My Renault Laguna behaves similarly. I just leave the Climate Control in 'Auto', and it does what it needs to do. -- Davey. |
#168
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OT - Car Specifications
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Slomo wrote: No, it's a pain in the arse, at least as implemented in my C4. I don't give a monkey's about whether the temperature I want is 22C or whatever. When I get in the car, if I'm cold I want to get hot ASAP, so I set temp to max. Once I'm warm enough, air at a somewhat lower temp is what I want. So I turn the temp down from, say 27 to say 22. But what actually happens is that instead of getting air at 22 I get air *much* colder than that, because the car thinks I want the entire ambient temp to get to 22 ASAP. What I want is a simple slider or dial, such that I get air out of it at a temp that exactly relates to the dial/slider position. No reason why a well designed climate control can't have a button which tells it to operate the way you want when getting into the car cold and do it the way you want when you tell it to stop doing that by unpressing that button when warm enough. The climate control on my ancient BMW in auto mode starts with the fan just idling on a cold start. Once the coolant gets warm enough, it ramps up the fan speed to heat the cabin to the set temperature as quickly as possible. As it approaches that temperature, it ramps down to a normal quiet speed. And once at temperature, it opens the cold air vents to the face, if that's what you want. If you select the AC, it does much the same to cool the car. It works so well I very rarely touch it. That doesn’t work as well for the situation where you are out of the car for a relatively short while in the depths of winter and want to have the heater warm you personally up as fast as possible by jacking up the car interior temp for a while until you somehow tell it that you're warm enough now tho. Just a 'warm me up now' button should do that fine. Same with the height of summer here where it can be useful to get cooled off quickly when you have just got into the car with it 110F outside and you have been out in the sun for a bit etc. |
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