I used my Glowworm Ultimate 80FF LPG boiler yesterday with no problem, but
then it started making an almighty buzzing chattering noise. I turned it off
at the control panel but the noise continued until I turned off the power
switch. Now, a day later, it makes the same buzzing noise when I switch the
power back on even though I have the control panel off. I know nothing about
boilers but saw on a post here that it might be the pcb. Is that the likely
problem, and if so will I need a new pcb or can the current one be repaired?
The boiler is about 20 years old. I am due to move in 2 months so want to
avoid major expense! Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give.

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On Sunday, 29 May 2016 22:44:03 UTC+1, John in Suffolk wrote:
I used my Glowworm Ultimate 80FF LPG boiler yesterday with no problem, but
then it started making an almighty buzzing chattering noise. I turned it off
at the control panel but the noise continued until I turned off the power
switch. Now, a day later, it makes the same buzzing noise when I switch the
power back on even though I have the control panel off. I know nothing about
boilers but saw on a post here that it might be the pcb. Is that the likely
problem, and if so will I need a new pcb or can the current one be repaired?
The boiler is about 20 years old. I am due to move in 2 months so want to
avoid major expense! Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give.

--
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http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...n-1133616-.htm
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It might be associated with the circulating pump.

First identify what is making the physical buzz might be a good start, if
its a dc pump then its probably getting aAC instead which is not good.

Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"John in Suffolk" wrote
in message oups.com...
I used my Glowworm Ultimate 80FF LPG boiler yesterday with no problem, but
then it started making an almighty buzzing chattering noise. I turned it
off
at the control panel but the noise continued until I turned off the power
switch. Now, a day later, it makes the same buzzing noise when I switch
the
power back on even though I have the control panel off. I know nothing
about
boilers but saw on a post here that it might be the pcb. Is that the
likely
problem, and if so will I need a new pcb or can the current one be
repaired?
The boiler is about 20 years old. I am due to move in 2 months so want to
avoid major expense! Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...n-1133616-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to
uk.d-i-y and other home improvement groups

On Sun, 29 May 2016 21:44:01 +0000, John in Suffolk
wrote:

I know nothing about
boilers but saw on a post here that it might be the pcb. Is that the likely
problem, and if so will I need a new pcb or can the current one be repaired?
The boiler is about 20 years old. I am due to move in 2 months so want to
avoid major expense! Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give.

Give Geoff at CET Ltd a ring on 01923 229224 (http://www.cetltd.com ).
He has an encyclopedic knowledge of boilers and their faults and can
supply refurbished PCB's at a fraction of manufacturers prices if
necessary.

replying to harry, John in Suffolk wrote:
Thanks for this. The circulating pump has been louder than usual lately,
though the noise is very different and also in a different location. The
buzzing noise I wrote about is in the boiler unit downstairs while the pump is
upstairs. So it's hard to imagine how the two could be linked unless it's the
controls to the pump n the pcb (?) that is causing the problem.

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On 30/05/2016 10:31, Peter Parry wrote:
Give Geoff at CET Ltd a ring on 01923 229224 (http://www.cetltd.com ).
He has an encyclopedic knowledge of boilers and their faults and can
supply refurbished PCB's at a fraction of manufacturers prices if
necessary.

+1.

I've used him.

Andy

replying to Vir Campestris, Russ17 wrote:
If you have a Ultimate PCB with a two fuse, 7 wire arrangement and the relay
(RL3 ) chatters constantly, check and replace C4 (50V 100uF). This capacitor
provides the smoothing of the rectified DC voltage that provides a permanent
DC supply voltage to RL3 (Relay for circulator pump). The DC supply voltage
dropped on mine to 36V, which is too low for the relay to be held on, so it
cycles between on & off. Replacing C4 at a cost of 30p solved it

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