Not a happy bunny. The strimmer - Stihl FS55 wouldn't run properly the
other day. It'd start, it'd idle, but not well - but the slightest
throttle saw it cough and fart and die.

Took the top off the carb and the fuel pump diaphragm looked to be made
of cardboard. Again. So in went a new one. Again.

And now it's ****ing fuel everywhere.

So - anybody got any recommendations (for or against) for sources of a
new carb? They're less than a tenner on the 'bay or Amazon, but then
there's a swathe at £30ish. But are they the same carb just with a big
markup to make you more confident...?

I don't bloody know. Nobody seems to sell genuine Stihl parts online. My
local places just want to take the damn thing in and charge me a fortune
for looking at it. In a fortnight.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 11:29:47 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:


snip

I don't bloody know. Nobody seems to sell genuine Stihl parts online.

What about these people?

http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/meterin...-121-4700.html

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 14 May 2016 15:32:34 +0100, T i m wrote:

I don't bloody know. Nobody seems to sell genuine Stihl parts online.

What about these people?

http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/meterin...gm-stihl-part-
no-4129-121-4700.html

The ridiculous thing is that that diaphragm is more expensive than the
entire carb I've ended up ordering.

The new diaphragm I put on it in the week didn't help.

They do list a genuine new carb, though. Bookmarked. Ta.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 15:23:35 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

On Sat, 14 May 2016 15:32:34 +0100, T i m wrote:

I don't bloody know. Nobody seems to sell genuine Stihl parts online.

What about these people?

http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/meterin...gm-stihl-part-
no-4129-121-4700.html

The ridiculous thing is that that diaphragm is more expensive than the
entire carb I've ended up ordering.

I think it's only 'ridiculous' if you compare unlike's? ;-)

The new diaphragm I put on it in the week didn't help.

Then it was either:

Not the actual fault (duh).
Not the right replacement bit (even though it was supposed to be).
(Respectfully) Not fitted correctly or was faulty.


They do list a genuine new carb, though. Bookmarked. Ta.

NP. I have used them a couple of times and the service was fine (no
connection etc).

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get
the thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:28:49 +0100, T i m wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get the
thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year. It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week. Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

On 15/05/2016 08:33, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:28:49 +0100, T i m wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get the
thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year. It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week. Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

Sounds like a seal somewhere, I dont know the carb so just guessing,
does it use a gasket to join 2 halves together?

On 15/05/16 08:33, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:28:49 +0100, T i m wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get the
thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year. It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week. Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

If it has a float chamber and a fuel pump, the float valve that shuts it
off has gone.


--
"The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
look exactly the same afterwards."

Billy Connolly

On Sun, 15 May 2016 09:28:44 +0100, ss wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get
the thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year. It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week. Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

Sounds like a seal somewhere, I dont know the carb so just guessing,
does it use a gasket to join 2 halves together?

No, just the diaphragm and spacer for the pump. Everything's clean and
looking unmarked.

Frankly, given that a diaphragm kit and primer bubble were more expensive
than the new carb, this is the cheap option. If the new carb turns out to
be ****, then it's not much money wasted - certainly compared to taking
it to the little bloke in the next village, which is probably the next
option. Although a new genuine carb's probably not much difference in
price there.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 07:33:24 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:28:49 +0100, T i m wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get the
thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year.

I was recently looking at a ride-on mower for a family friend and
that's what she said (as some sort of questioning statement though,
like that should make any difference to why it wasn't working now).
;-)

It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week.

Fuel fresh and ok (not that I find that an issue but in the small
quantities you find in a strimmer and it being 2/ it could be).

Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

It may be that the diaphragm was or got damaged in the process or
isn't in the right way round (if that is possible unless done in the
dark g) or 'something else' is now leaking, like the fuel hose to
carb joint (often the case when perished / weak and the joint broken /
disturbed etc).

I don't think there is much between fuel hose and the diaphragm on
these things so can you see *where* (on the carb) the leak is coming
from? If from where the fuel hose joins it can sometimes look like
it's coming from elsewhere (close). Is the primer bulb split?

http://www.ciscomethodist.org/stihl-bg55-parts-diagram/stihl-fs-55-parts-diagram-b9ec638a554b48e7.html

http://tinyurl.com/h97okmx

(assuming this is the same carb etc)

If it's not suffered any issues since the last time it ran ok and
assuming it wasn't damaged when it 'ran badly' (all the 2/ oil settled
out and congealed etc) so unless something has been affected by it
being stored in the damp (ignition coil) then the most likely issue is
one of fuelling and it's unlikely for the carb itself to have been
damaged, outside the disclaimers above (mouse chewed though the fuel
hose or primer bulb etc). ;-)

So, if it were me I'd strip the carb and carefully clear it out over a
large sheet of white paper in a tray (using carb cleaner but being
careful how hard you spray it in case there are any loose (wanted
bits, like jets) bits still down holes etc) then carefully inspect all
the sensitive parts (mostly rubber bits) and replace where necessary.
Clean the entire fuel path and then, even if it doesn't help (but
stops the leak) you can tick that off the list.

Obviously you have to fix the leak before you can do any other
diagnostics.

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 09:29:06 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

If it has a float chamber and a fuel pump, the float valve that shuts it
off has gone.


It doesn't, few of these 'portable' engined tools do (for obvious
reasons).

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

snip

Frankly, given that a diaphragm kit and primer bubble were more expensive
than the new carb, this is the cheap option.

Whilst it may be the cheapest it might not be the best value for
money. What I mean is that I think I'd rather spend the same money on
genuine parts (or tried and tested aftermarket ones) and know you have
a good / genuine carb on there that would then be like new that some
other unknown solution that may never be as well tuned as the genuine
offering.

If the new carb turns out to
be ****, then it's not much money wasted

I doubt it will be sh1t but it may never be as god as the original. It
may be better of course. ;-)

- certainly compared to taking
it to the little bloke in the next village, which is probably the next
option.

I guess all this sort of thing is down to confidence, time, attitude
and aptitude. Like, I wouldn't take anything to anyone preferring /
trusting that I'd do it better myself (in most cases and where it's
practical). That's not me saying I'm better than everyone else, just
that I'm not generally doing it against the clock and being that it's
'mine', may put more care and attention into what I'm doing. I'm
guessing it's the same for many on this group. ;-)


Although a new genuine carb's probably not much difference in
price there.

All these tools are pretty basic, although again that can depend on
your experience and especially interest. Whilst I would look upon your
strimmer issue as an interesting challenge, you may only be seeing it
as a PITA.

But then I always take such things down to their basics and with
things like this they really are that (basic).

Fuel, spark, compression.

To test for fuel (or lack thereof), spark and compression a puff of
Easy Start up the inlet or into the plughole should be sufficient. If
it fires up easily then you are probably only looking at a fuel issue.

You can probably clean / check the entire fuel path from tank to inlet
manifold in under an hour (30 mins the second time) and most of the
service parts are only a couple of mouse clicks away.

Being that this is a Stilh strimmer (and assuming you know it's
history and know it was working well the last time it worked) I'd
spend the money on it (with genuine service parts).

Once it is 'running' again, if it still doesn't run 'well' then it
could also be crank seals, another job I wouldn't hesitate to do on
something like that. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

snip

Everything's clean and
looking unmarked.

Just OOI, how far did you go with that (re the carb stripdown)?

This might be of interest (it's a bit slow and American but you can
get the general idea re approach etc). ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eGJAdPnsXg

The bit at 5:30 on might be of interest ...

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 10:25:42 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
If the new carb turns out to be ****, then it's not much money wasted

I doubt it will be sh1t but it may never be as god as the original. It
may be better of course. ;-)

It'll be made in China - but, then, (rather disappointingly) so's the
Stihl strimmmer...

Whilst I would look upon your strimmer issue as an interesting
challenge, you may only be seeing it as a PITA.

The old carb won't go in the bin. It'll go on the bench to await a day
when I'm in a better mood with it.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 11:51:05 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 10:25:42 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
If the new carb turns out to be ****, then it's not much money wasted

I doubt it will be sh1t but it may never be as god as the original. It
may be better of course. ;-)

It'll be made in China - but, then, (rather disappointingly) so's the
Stihl strimmmer...

What isn't these days. ;-(

Whilst I would look upon your strimmer issue as an interesting
challenge, you may only be seeing it as a PITA.

The old carb won't go in the bin.

Good. Unless it's completely worn out *and* doesn't contain anything
that might one day get me out of trouble on something else, I simply
can't throw such things away. Further, it's often not the (whole)
problem and so would make a good spare in any case. ;-)

It'll go on the bench to await a day
when I'm in a better mood with it.

Understood. I have those days when I might start something and I
immediately know it wasn't the day to be doing that so either go to
something else (or on a really bad day, go back to bed). ;-(

The other day I welded a handle on our daughters garden chipper (as it
only came with a tow hitch for a quad or summat) and then the only
suitable paint and colour I could find to hand was some brush on
smooth Hammerite in red (red so it can be seen easily and it become a
trip hazard etc). This was one of those jobs where I really wanted to
get it done and back on quickly so I just carried on with what I had.
Except it came out a mess and so a few days later I've stripped it all
off again (not so easy without real Nitromors) and am now going to
*spray* it with the smooth Hammerite I've since bought (and what I
know I should have done in the first place). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:30:56 +0100, T i m wrote:

It'll go on the bench to await a day when I'm in a better mood with it.

Understood. I have those days when I might start something and I
immediately know it wasn't the day to be doing that so either go to
something else (or on a really bad day, go back to bed). ;-(

Frankly, I kinda need the strimmer... now. It's not quite knee-deep, but
getting close.

On 15/05/2016 08:33, Adrian wrote:
On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:28:49 +0100, T i m wrote:

p.s. I stripped a Stilh blower that uses the same engine as your
strimmer because the regular 'mechanic' said the carb as faulty. I
*knew* it was down to (possibly 'also') no compression as the seized
ring and scored bore later proved. A new ring was sufficient to get the
thing to actually run (all be it badly etc).

There's compression.

It ran last year. It ran, just, badly, when I started it up the other
week. Then I changed the diaphragm. Not quite sure what I did, but fuel
is now ****ing out of the carb.

Probably cheaper on eBay?

When you say fuel is ****ing out of the carb, do you mean from inside
the carb?

If it's the type of carb I think it is, then the fuel needle valve is
u/s. By default it shouldn't dribble any fuel until there's a vacuum in
the venturi; where the diaphragm can exerts a pressure on the sprung
needle valve and open it.


http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/mod/gl...e+Ca rburetor

Are you missing the spring?

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:38:41 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

If it's the type of carb I think it is, then the fuel needle valve is
u/s. By default it shouldn't dribble any fuel until there's a vacuum in
the venturi; where the diaphragm can exerts a pressure on the sprung
needle valve and open it.

http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/mod/gl...showentry.php?
courseid=1&concept=Diaphragm+Type+Carburetor

Are you missing the spring?

I'll take it apart and get some pics when the replacement arrives.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:32:41 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:30:56 +0100, T i m wrote:

It'll go on the bench to await a day when I'm in a better mood with it.

Understood. I have those days when I might start something and I
immediately know it wasn't the day to be doing that so either go to
something else (or on a really bad day, go back to bed). ;-(

Frankly, I kinda need the strimmer... now. It's not quite knee-deep, but
getting close.


I know what you mean. You aren't near Nth Lundin by any chance?

OOI, isn't it worth a look at the carb again just in case you can spot
the cause of the leak? If you cleaned the carb right out it could now
be just down to something you could fix with a tiny dob of silicone?
shrug

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:38:41 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

snip

When you say fuel is ****ing out of the carb, do you mean from inside
the carb?

If it's the type of carb I think it is, then the fuel needle valve is
u/s. By default it shouldn't dribble any fuel until there's a vacuum in
the venturi; where the diaphragm can exerts a pressure on the sprung
needle valve and open it.


http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/mod/gl...e+Ca rburetor

(nice graphic).

Are you missing the spring?

As you say, that would only be the case if the fuel was coming (back)
out of the venturi (possibly hidden behind the air-filter, disguising
the actual leak point) and not out of the carb body, primer bulb or
hose etc.

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 15 May 2016 12:43:17 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:38:41 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

If it's the type of carb I think it is, then the fuel needle valve is
u/s. By default it shouldn't dribble any fuel until there's a vacuum in
the venturi; where the diaphragm can exerts a pressure on the sprung
needle valve and open it.

http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/mod/gl...showentry.php?
courseid=1&concept=Diaphragm+Type+Carburetor

Are you missing the spring?

I'll take it apart and get some pics when the replacement arrives.

Or take it apart now and *possibly* get it going today. Nothing to
lose if you have a new carb on the way in any case. ;-)

"Make hay while the sun shines!" ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 15/05/2016 14:32, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:38:41 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

snip

When you say fuel is ****ing out of the carb, do you mean from inside
the carb?

If it's the type of carb I think it is, then the fuel needle valve is
u/s. By default it shouldn't dribble any fuel until there's a vacuum in
the venturi; where the diaphragm can exerts a pressure on the sprung
needle valve and open it.


http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/mod/gl...e+Ca rburetor

(nice graphic).

Are you missing the spring?

As you say, that would only be the case if the fuel was coming (back)
out of the venturi (possibly hidden behind the air-filter, disguising
the actual leak point) and not out of the carb body, primer bulb or
hose etc.

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

I had discounted a puncture "new" diaphragm! I don't recall Adrian
saying where the fuel was coming out of the carb, BICBW.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 14:34:50 +0100, T i m wrote:

I'll take it apart and get some pics when the replacement arrives.

Or take it apart now and *possibly* get it going today.

After yesterday morning, I'm bored with taking it apart, putting it back
together, and finding it's no better. I think it's getting trained.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 15:08:29 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

I had discounted a puncture "new" diaphragm! I don't recall Adrian
saying where the fuel was coming out of the carb, BICBW.

Because it was difficult to be certain - it was getting very wet, very
quickly. The venturi was filling up, and it was dripping off the outside
of the body.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 14:24:43 +0100, T i m wrote:

Frankly, I kinda need the strimmer... now. It's not quite knee-deep, but
getting close.

I know what you mean. You aren't near Nth Lundin by any chance?

Half a mile from Wales.

If I CBA, I'd borrow one from a neighbour, but...

On 15/05/16 17:00, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 15:08:29 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

I had discounted a puncture "new" diaphragm! I don't recall Adrian
saying where the fuel was coming out of the carb, BICBW.

Because it was difficult to be certain - it was getting very wet, very
quickly. The venturi was filling up, and it was dripping off the outside
of the body.

Umm. One of the PRIMARY reasons a small 2-stroke wont run, is that te
tank breather is blocked. So a vacuum builds up and no fuel glows. Or
you fill it with fuel, it warms up and floods the carburettor....



--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

On Sun, 15 May 2016 17:12:10 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 15/05/16 17:00, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 15:08:29 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

I had discounted a puncture "new" diaphragm! I don't recall Adrian
saying where the fuel was coming out of the carb, BICBW.

Because it was difficult to be certain - it was getting very wet, very
quickly. The venturi was filling up, and it was dripping off the outside
of the body.

Umm. One of the PRIMARY reasons a small 2-stroke wont run, is that te
tank breather is blocked.

I'd say the primary reason, if there is such a thing is a fouled plug
(but even that is rare with today's 2/ oils and low oil burn. Even my
old British Seagull outboard motor rarely had a fouled plug and that
ran on a 2/ mix of 10:1!. That *could* suffer with a blocked or open
air vent because it was a manual thing on top of the fuel cap and was
easy to forget (when it would either die after a while after running a
fair while or flood the back of the car / boat with petrol)).

So a vacuum builds up and no fuel glows.

Still unlikely in Adrian's case and certainly not 'primary'.

Or
you fill it with fuel, it warms up and floods the carburettor....

Again, unlikely. If it were I'd be aware of it with the 20 or so small
2/s I am involved with regularly and I can say that I've never come
across a blocked tank vent. Not saying it can't happen, just that it's
not the 'primary reason' a 2/ wouldn't *start* or *run*, especially
straight away or one that has just been partially stripped.

Not in my 50 years of using 2/'s pretty regularly anyway.

Cheers, T i m

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 15/05/16 17:00, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 15:08:29 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

And if the body, is it from one of the joints or the breather hole as
shown on your diagram (the latter indicating a punctured diagraphm).

I had discounted a puncture "new" diaphragm! I don't recall Adrian
saying where the fuel was coming out of the carb, BICBW.

Because it was difficult to be certain - it was getting very wet, very
quickly. The venturi was filling up, and it was dripping off the outside
of the body.

Umm. One of the PRIMARY reasons a small 2-stroke wont run, is that te
tank breather is blocked. So a vacuum builds up and no fuel glows. Or
you fill it with fuel, it warms up and floods the carburettor....

Along with lots of other reasons in my experience. In particular the
2-stroke strimmer I had was as good as impossible to restart when hot,
you had to take a rest, do something else for ten minutes and then it
started without any problem.

However I now have a 4-stroke strimmer and there's no way I would ever
have a 2-stroke one again. OK, it's a *cheap* 4-stroke (Ryobi) but it
just starts when I want it to start, I can stop it and restart it as I
need, it's *so* much better than a 2-stroke.

--
Chris Green
·

On Sun, 15 May 2016 18:12:58 +0100, wrote:

snip

However I now have a 4-stroke strimmer and there's no way I would ever
have a 2-stroke one again.

What if you were a tree surgeon and needed a 'top handle' saw, do they
make a 4/ as light and powerful as any 2/ do you know?

OK, it's a *cheap* 4-stroke (Ryobi) but it
just starts when I want it to start, I can stop it and restart it as I
need, it's *so* much better than a 2-stroke.

Funny, that's just as our daughter uses all her 2/ tools (strimmers,
saws, blowers etc) all day long g. Same as my experience with my 2/
mopeds (Honda Express, NSU Quickly), scooters (Lambretta LD150 /
SX150) motorcycles (MZ's) and outboard motors (British Seagull and
Yamaha ... that often started first (or second) pull after being laid
up all season). Even my Messerschmitt KR200 (Sachs 200cc 2/) started
on the first turn of the key (forwards or backwards g). If they
didn't start quickly there was probably something wrong with them. ;-(

Maybe you just had a badun there Chris?

And to be fair, most (decent sized) strimmers are used with a harness
so you wouldn't be holding the dead weight with your arms. Not the
same with a chainsaw or hedge trimmer though.

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 18:12:58 +0100, wrote:

snip

However I now have a 4-stroke strimmer and there's no way I would ever
have a 2-stroke one again.

What if you were a tree surgeon and needed a 'top handle' saw, do they
make a 4/ as light and powerful as any 2/ do you know?

OK, it's a *cheap* 4-stroke (Ryobi) but it
just starts when I want it to start, I can stop it and restart it as I
need, it's *so* much better than a 2-stroke.

Funny, that's just as our daughter uses all her 2/ tools (strimmers,
saws, blowers etc) all day long g. Same as my experience with my 2/
mopeds (Honda Express, NSU Quickly), scooters (Lambretta LD150 /
SX150) motorcycles (MZ's) and outboard motors (British Seagull and
Yamaha ... that often started first (or second) pull after being laid
up all season). Even my Messerschmitt KR200 (Sachs 200cc 2/) started
on the first turn of the key (forwards or backwards g). If they
didn't start quickly there was probably something wrong with them. ;-(

Maybe you just had a badun there Chris?

And to be fair, most (decent sized) strimmers are used with a harness
so you wouldn't be holding the dead weight with your arms. Not the
same with a chainsaw or hedge trimmer though.

Yes, I know not all 2-strokes are the same. However the difference
between a Ryobi 2-stroke and a Ryobi 4-stroke was considerable. The
4-stroke is almost exactly the same weight as the same powered
2-stroke.

It's also handy not having to mix fuel in the oil.

--
Chris Green
·

On Sun, 15 May 2016 21:31:42 +0100, wrote:

T i m wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 18:12:58 +0100, wrote:

snip

However I now have a 4-stroke strimmer and there's no way I would ever
have a 2-stroke one again.

What if you were a tree surgeon and needed a 'top handle' saw, do they
make a 4/ as light and powerful as any 2/ do you know?

OK, it's a *cheap* 4-stroke (Ryobi) but it
just starts when I want it to start, I can stop it and restart it as I
need, it's *so* much better than a 2-stroke.

Funny, that's just as our daughter uses all her 2/ tools (strimmers,
saws, blowers etc) all day long g. Same as my experience with my 2/
mopeds (Honda Express, NSU Quickly), scooters (Lambretta LD150 /
SX150) motorcycles (MZ's) and outboard motors (British Seagull and
Yamaha ... that often started first (or second) pull after being laid
up all season). Even my Messerschmitt KR200 (Sachs 200cc 2/) started
on the first turn of the key (forwards or backwards g). If they
didn't start quickly there was probably something wrong with them. ;-(

Maybe you just had a badun there Chris?

And to be fair, most (decent sized) strimmers are used with a harness
so you wouldn't be holding the dead weight with your arms. Not the
same with a chainsaw or hedge trimmer though.

Yes, I know not all 2-strokes are the same.

;-)

However the difference
between a Ryobi 2-stroke and a Ryobi 4-stroke was considerable. The
4-stroke is almost exactly the same weight as the same powered
2-stroke.

Ok.


It's also handy not having to mix fuel in the oil.

That's true ... and they are (therefore) less polluting etc, unless
you let it go upside down possibly? [1]

I wonder if the likes of Stilh will go 4/ (from their 2/ or '4 Mix')
before they go (only) electric?

Still less to go wrong with a 2/ ... no valves to drop into the
cylinder and write the engine off ... mind you, you can do that just
as easily by not adding the 2/ oil to the fuel on a 2/. shrug

Cheers, T i m

[1] That's an issue with 4/ outboards. With a 2/ outboard you can
pretty well put it anywhere you like. With the 4/'s you can
(typically) only lay them on one side because of the 'wet sump'.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Frankly, given that a diaphragm kit and primer bubble were more
expensive than the new carb, this is the cheap option. If the new carb
turns out to be ****, then it's not much money wasted

And the new carb...

....works like a bloody dream.

First pull, a little bit of mix and throttle-stop twiddling, and it's
running as sweet as new.

On 20/05/16 10:15, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2016 08:32:14 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Frankly, given that a diaphragm kit and primer bubble were more
expensive than the new carb, this is the cheap option. If the new carb
turns out to be ****, then it's not much money wasted

And the new carb...

....works like a bloody dream.

First pull, a little bit of mix and throttle-stop twiddling, and it's
running as sweet as new.



Well that's a result then.


--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.