Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height you
should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

Cheers

Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

"David" wrote in message
...
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height you
should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

You need someone with a cat ladder, phone a local roofer or small builder.

I'd be surprised if you paid more than £200 for the entire job, it's only 3
hours work for one man and a tenner's worth of materials

Forget the ventilation, it needs something with weight, the normal way is a
paving slab mortared in place, and with flaunching on top to allow rain to
run off.
Failing this, a couple of large slates bedded on, again with strong
flaunching for added weight.

David wrote:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height you
should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

Cheers

Dave R



I hired a towable cherry picker to paint my house and it was brilliant.
Pretty topple proof as you can even begin to raise it if the legs aren't
fully extended an screwed down. Despite this, I did manage to get stuck in
the air at full extension once when I hadn't screwed one of the legs down
as firmly as I should have. At full extension the furthest away leg was
unloaded enough to trip the safety cut-out leaving me high and dry. ;-)
Fortunately I had my mobile phone on me and was able to summon help.

Can't wait for my house to need painting again. ;-)

Tim

On 05/11/14 14:12, David wrote:

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Use a nice simple strap on cap with vent mesh - often called a "pepper
pot". These come with basically a ginormous jubilee clip that you do up
until it won't fall off.

Available painted red so look OK. eg:

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalo...mney_Cowl.html

You may also find a HETAS installer or a chimney sweep may be more adept
at going up the roof without scaffold - depending on access and height.

I got 2 capped when I had a flue liner put in.

On 05/11/14 14:43, Phil L wrote:

Forget the ventilation

Seems a little unwise?

In article , Phil L
wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker. First
Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery. 34 foot (probably just
tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one? Training requirements
plus elf'nsafety? Or just a grim determination to maximise profit -
using existing stock plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height
you should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation? I
know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

You need someone with a cat ladder, phone a local roofer or small builder.

I'd be surprised if you paid more than £200 for the entire job, it's only
3 hours work for one man and a tenner's worth of materials

Forget the ventilation, it needs something with weight, the normal way is
a paving slab mortared in place, and with flaunching on top to allow
rain to run off. Failing this, a couple of large slates bedded on, again
with strong flaunching for added weight.

or even what I was brought up to call a "grannie"

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

In article ,
David writes:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

IIRC, I paid £450 for the scaffolding, and I did the work
myself, but that also included repointing the chimney and redoing
the flaunching. I got a lead guy aroumd to redo the leadwork.
Also aligned the TV aerial whilst up there. (I worked out the
angle from google maps, and used the car satnav to get north,
and then set the aerial. Then I discovered that if I looked
very carefully at the horizon along the line of the aerial
from the top of the chimney, I could just about see the
transmitter 25 miles away.)

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Ventilating is very important or the chimney fills with condensation
and wrecks the internal decorations and plasterwork about 5-10 years
later. Must be vented at top and bottom.

You can get vented caps which sit on the pots - earthenware with a
ring of vent holes around (which are mortared on to the pots), or
metal (Brewer's) caps (which have a strap around the pot which I
didn't like so I fitted them a different way).
Another option is to remove the pot and seal the top with a paving
slab, and put a vented brick in the side of the chimney near the
top.

These all have quite different appearance, which may be important
if you don't want to change your chimney's so they don't match
everyone else's anymore. The Brewer's cap is the least visible from
the ground. (There are also Brewer's caps which leave the chimney
sufficiently open to still use it, but I'm not referring to those.)

Ventilation is more important than stopping water getting in, i.e
it's better not to cap it at all than to seal it in a way which kills
the ventilation.

Capping a chimney doesn't stop debris coming detached from the inside
and falling down.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Wed, 05 Nov 2014 15:16:23 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

On 05/11/14 14:12, David wrote:

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Use a nice simple strap on cap with vent mesh - often called a "pepper
pot". These come with basically a ginormous jubilee clip that you do up
until it won't fall off.

Available painted red so look OK. eg:

http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalog/Colt_Top_2_Anti-
Downdraft_Chimney_Cowl.html

You may also find a HETAS installer or a chimney sweep may be more adept
at going up the roof without scaffold - depending on access and height.

I got 2 capped when I had a flue liner put in.

Good suggestion - both the plumber and HETAS installer have been up on the
roof to install flues. Also, hadn't thought of a chimney sweep :-)

Thanks

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

In article , Andrew Gabriel
wrote:
In article , David
writes:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

IIRC, I paid £450 for the scaffolding, and I did the work myself, but
that also included repointing the chimney and redoing the flaunching. I
got a lead guy aroumd to redo the leadwork. Also aligned the TV aerial
whilst up there. (I worked out the angle from google maps, and used the
car satnav to get north, and then set the aerial. Then I discovered that
if I looked very carefully at the horizon along the line of the aerial
from the top of the chimney, I could just about see the transmitter 25
miles away.)

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation? I
know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Ventilating is very important or the chimney fills with condensation and
wrecks the internal decorations and plasterwork about 5-10 years later.
Must be vented at top and bottom.

You can get vented caps which sit on the pots - earthenware with a ring
of vent holes around (which are mortared on to the pots), or metal
(Brewer's) caps (which have a strap around the pot which I didn't like so
I fitted them a different way). Another option is to remove the pot and
seal the top with a paving slab, and put a vented brick in the side of
the chimney near the top.

These all have quite different appearance, which may be important if you
don't want to change your chimney's so they don't match everyone else's
anymore. The Brewer's cap is the least visible from the ground. (There
are also Brewer's caps which leave the chimney sufficiently open to still
use it, but I'm not referring to those.)

Ventilation is more important than stopping water getting in, i.e it's
better not to cap it at all than to seal it in a way which kills the
ventilation.

Capping a chimney doesn't stop debris coming detached from the inside and
falling down.

but it does stop birds nesting inside

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On 05/11/2014 14:43, Phil L wrote:
....
Forget the ventilation, it needs something with weight,...

Have you tried picking up a clay ventilated chimney cap?


--
Colin Bignell

On Wed, 05 Nov 2014 14:43:11 +0000, Phil L wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height
you should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

You need someone with a cat ladder, phone a local roofer or small
builder.

I'd be surprised if you paid more than £200 for the entire job, it's
only 3 hours work for one man and a tenner's worth of materials

Forget the ventilation, it needs something with weight, the normal way
is a paving slab mortared in place, and with flaunching on top to allow
rain to run off.
Failing this, a couple of large slates bedded on, again with strong
flaunching for added weight.

Is a cat ladder the same as a roofing ladder - i.e. a light weight ladder
with wheels and a hook at the top to roll up the roof then flip over at
the ridge so the hook takes hold?

Anyway, slightly more complicated than that.

The roof is a hip roof (if Wikipedia is correct) and the chimney is on the
triangular side so there is no ridge directly above it on which to fix a
ladder.

It is also on the side of the house where the car port is so it is
difficult to access directly.

Having said all that, I have seen a roofer just displace a few tiles to
provide footholds via the battens and walk all over a roof, just replacing
the tiles afterwards.

All this suggests that we may end up with a cherry picker.
Which is tempting.

Cheers


Dave R



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Wed, 05 Nov 2014 15:54:54 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
David writes:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

IIRC, I paid £450 for the scaffolding, and I did the work myself, but
that also included repointing the chimney and redoing the flaunching. I
got a lead guy aroumd to redo the leadwork.
Also aligned the TV aerial whilst up there. (I worked out the angle from
google maps, and used the car satnav to get north,
and then set the aerial. Then I discovered that if I looked very
carefully at the horizon along the line of the aerial from the top of
the chimney, I could just about see the transmitter 25 miles away.)

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Ventilating is very important or the chimney fills with condensation and
wrecks the internal decorations and plasterwork about 5-10 years later.
Must be vented at top and bottom.

You can get vented caps which sit on the pots - earthenware with a ring
of vent holes around (which are mortared on to the pots), or metal
(Brewer's) caps (which have a strap around the pot which I didn't like
so I fitted them a different way).
Another option is to remove the pot and seal the top with a paving slab,
and put a vented brick in the side of the chimney near the top.

These all have quite different appearance, which may be important if you
don't want to change your chimney's so they don't match everyone else's
anymore. The Brewer's cap is the least visible from the ground. (There
are also Brewer's caps which leave the chimney sufficiently open to
still use it, but I'm not referring to those.)

Ventilation is more important than stopping water getting in, i.e it's
better not to cap it at all than to seal it in a way which kills the
ventilation.

Capping a chimney doesn't stop debris coming detached from the inside
and falling down.

I think I favour the earthenware vented caps - drop into a bed of mortar
sounds good, and they also look attractive.

Stage two of the plan is to block the chimney near the bottom and put a
flue door in the outside above the blockage for maintenance access.

That way I can seal the barrier from above and also get at it to check and
clear out any debris at a later date.


Makes me wonder about sealed fire places with just a ventilation brick -
presumably they are at risk of slowly accumulating debris. Fortunately we
only have one remaining chimney which serves the lounge and one bedroom.
Must make a note to check out the bedroom (lack of) fireplace.


Cheers


Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 05/11/14 16:18, David wrote:

Having said all that, I have seen a roofer just displace a few tiles to
provide footholds via the battens and walk all over a roof, just replacing
the tiles afterwards.

That is a common technique - just watch they put the tiles back "right".

All this suggests that we may end up with a cherry picker.
Which is tempting.

And why not...

The hire place should be able to give you an operating lecture and a
demo - they don't want you breaking it either

Although I think they are so full of safety features, it would be hard
to do something dangerous other than plant your face in the side of the
building.

On 05/11/2014 16:04, charles wrote:
In article , Andrew Gabriel
wrote:
In article , David
writes:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

IIRC, I paid £450 for the scaffolding, and I did the work myself, but
that also included repointing the chimney and redoing the flaunching. I
got a lead guy aroumd to redo the leadwork. Also aligned the TV aerial
whilst up there. (I worked out the angle from google maps, and used the
car satnav to get north, and then set the aerial. Then I discovered that
if I looked very carefully at the horizon along the line of the aerial
from the top of the chimney, I could just about see the transmitter 25
miles away.)

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation? I
know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Ventilating is very important or the chimney fills with condensation and
wrecks the internal decorations and plasterwork about 5-10 years later.
Must be vented at top and bottom.

You can get vented caps which sit on the pots - earthenware with a ring
of vent holes around (which are mortared on to the pots), or metal
(Brewer's) caps (which have a strap around the pot which I didn't like so
I fitted them a different way). Another option is to remove the pot and
seal the top with a paving slab, and put a vented brick in the side of
the chimney near the top.

These all have quite different appearance, which may be important if you
don't want to change your chimney's so they don't match everyone else's
anymore. The Brewer's cap is the least visible from the ground. (There
are also Brewer's caps which leave the chimney sufficiently open to still
use it, but I'm not referring to those.)

Ventilation is more important than stopping water getting in, i.e it's
better not to cap it at all than to seal it in a way which kills the
ventilation.

Capping a chimney doesn't stop debris coming detached from the inside and
falling down.

but it does stop birds nesting inside

And Santa Claus climbing down.

On 05/11/2014 16:26, David wrote:
On Wed, 05 Nov 2014 15:54:54 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
David writes:
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600 parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

IIRC, I paid £450 for the scaffolding, and I did the work myself, but
that also included repointing the chimney and redoing the flaunching. I
got a lead guy aroumd to redo the leadwork.
Also aligned the TV aerial whilst up there. (I worked out the angle from
google maps, and used the car satnav to get north,
and then set the aerial. Then I discovered that if I looked very
carefully at the horizon along the line of the aerial from the top of
the chimney, I could just about see the transmitter 25 miles away.)

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the
top. Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Ventilating is very important or the chimney fills with condensation and
wrecks the internal decorations and plasterwork about 5-10 years later.
Must be vented at top and bottom.

You can get vented caps which sit on the pots - earthenware with a ring
of vent holes around (which are mortared on to the pots), or metal
(Brewer's) caps (which have a strap around the pot which I didn't like
so I fitted them a different way).
Another option is to remove the pot and seal the top with a paving slab,
and put a vented brick in the side of the chimney near the top.

These all have quite different appearance, which may be important if you
don't want to change your chimney's so they don't match everyone else's
anymore. The Brewer's cap is the least visible from the ground. (There
are also Brewer's caps which leave the chimney sufficiently open to
still use it, but I'm not referring to those.)

Ventilation is more important than stopping water getting in, i.e it's
better not to cap it at all than to seal it in a way which kills the
ventilation.

Capping a chimney doesn't stop debris coming detached from the inside
and falling down.

I think I favour the earthenware vented caps - drop into a bed of mortar
sounds good, and they also look attractive.

Stage two of the plan is to block the chimney near the bottom and put a
flue door in the outside above the blockage for maintenance access.

That way I can seal the barrier from above and also get at it to check and
clear out any debris at a later date.


Makes me wonder about sealed fire places with just a ventilation brick -
presumably they are at risk of slowly accumulating debris. Fortunately we
only have one remaining chimney which serves the lounge and one bedroom.
Must make a note to check out the bedroom (lack of) fireplace.


Cheers


Dave R



A chimney sweep will advise and fit. It's part of what they do.

David wrote:



I think I favour the earthenware vented caps - drop into a bed of mortar
sounds good, and they also look attractive.


the chimney caps with holes are called elephant's foot
but they are both very heavy and quite expensive
its worth checking ebay and local ads to see if anyone close to you is
operating a cherry picker service, this type of job is ideally suited to a
one man small business and can be much cheaper then the big Hire firms.


-

Well, many have outriggers, and need a solid bit of ground under those to
stop it tipping over.
Is capping a chimney that much harder than fitting a tv aerial?

Our one was done with two ladders, one the normal sort the other the hook
over roof ladder. I've been given to understand this has been done quite
recently in this street using the same method.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"David" wrote in message
...
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height you
should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

Cheers

Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

Ours is a kind of aluminium louver device which is somehow screwed down.
Took all of half a n hour for the guy to do it.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Phil L" wrote in message
...

"David" wrote in message
...
Need a couple of unused chimneys capping.

First quote:

scaffolding £600
parts and labour £250

Looks like they may not want the job.

They did suggest looking for someone with a cherry picker.
First Googling indicates that Hewden offer a 45 foot boom (plenty tall
enough) for £270 per week plus £75 delivery.
34 foot (probably just tall enough) is £240 a week + £75 delivery.

So this is significantly cheaper than scaffolding, even if we can't
negotiate a one/two day rate.

So why can't the scaffolding company use one?
Training requirements plus elf'nsafety?
Or just a grim determination to maximise profit - using existing stock
plus labour to put it up and take it down?

If we are going to order our own cherry picker then capping the chimney
looks more and more DIYable.

So - any advice about gotchas with using cherry pickers (like extending
them too far and toppling), and how much more than the vertical height
you
should use when ordering?

Gotchas about capping chimneys?

Most of the chimneys round here just have a half round tile over the top.
Is this enough to keep out the rain, and allow some ventilation?
I know that rain is coming down the chimney because the hearth is open
and
soot is coming down despite having swept the chimney.

Would a different pot be better, or an insert to drop into the pot?

You need someone with a cat ladder, phone a local roofer or small builder.

I'd be surprised if you paid more than £200 for the entire job, it's only
3 hours work for one man and a tenner's worth of materials

Forget the ventilation, it needs something with weight, the normal way is
a paving slab mortared in place, and with flaunching on top to allow rain
to run off.
Failing this, a couple of large slates bedded on, again with strong
flaunching for added weight.

On 5 Nov 2014 16:26:20 GMT, David wrote:

I think I favour the earthenware vented caps - drop into a bed of mortar
sounds good, and they also look attractive.

Stage two of the plan is to block the chimney near the bottom and put a
flue door in the outside above the blockage for maintenance access.

That way I can seal the barrier from above and also get at it to check and
clear out any debris at a later date.

Makes me wonder about sealed fire places with just a ventilation brick -
presumably they are at risk of slowly accumulating debris. Fortunately we
only have one remaining chimney which serves the lounge and one bedroom.
Must make a note to check out the bedroom (lack of) fireplace.

Cheers

Dave R

A chimney sweep once asked me to tell him when his brush come out the
top. I'm wondering if someone has invented a device that could be
pushed up the chimney in similar fashion and snap over the top like a
sprung umbrella?

Dave W

In message , Brian Gaff
writes
Well, many have outriggers, and need a solid bit of ground under those to
stop it tipping over.
Is capping a chimney that much harder than fitting a tv aerial?

Our one was done with two ladders, one the normal sort the other the hook
over roof ladder. I've been given to understand this has been done quite
recently in this street using the same method.

From what the OP said in a followup, this chimney stack is on the end of
a hipped roof. So that sort of access technique can't be used as no
where to hang the roof ladder from.
--
Chris French

"Chris French" wrote in message
...
In message , Brian Gaff
writes
Well, many have outriggers, and need a solid bit of ground under those to
stop it tipping over.
Is capping a chimney that much harder than fitting a tv aerial?

Our one was done with two ladders, one the normal sort the other the hook
over roof ladder. I've been given to understand this has been done quite
recently in this street using the same method.

From what the OP said in a followup, this chimney stack is on the end of a
hipped roof. So that sort of access technique can't be used as no where to
hang the roof ladder from.
--
Chris French

Well, a highly qualified bloke who works for his local council told me that
cat ladders are no longer allowed - it has to be scaffolding which is
expensive.
He said that all the council estates, he spat the word out, now get electric
heating.