Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using blocks,
and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap, convenient!)
aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier stuff? The door lintel
will remain in place so they won't be load-bearing, and there's no sound
insulation issues that I'm concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet plastering
one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the rest of the wall
and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other side, which will
actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old wall) into which I
will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks

--
David

In article , Lobster
writes
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using blocks,
and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap, convenient!)
aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier stuff? The door lintel
will remain in place so they won't be load-bearing, and there's no sound
insulation issues that I'm concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet plastering
one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the rest of the wall
and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other side, which will
actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old wall) into which I
will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Nothing wrong that I can see but why not keep it simple and dry line
completely? Put in some decent woodwork to support the shelves.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 03/05/2014 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using blocks,
and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap, convenient!)
aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier stuff? The door lintel
will remain in place so they won't be load-bearing, and there's no sound
insulation issues that I'm concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet plastering
one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the rest of the wall
and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other side, which will
actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old wall) into which I
will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks

I wouldn't bank on the plaster around the door being level as it would
have been plastered by eye originally then made up with architrave etc.
Trying to finish a job like this to a decent uniform level can be a
complete pain in my experience but you might get lucky!

Don't forget to tie your blocks into the existing wall.

On 03/05/14 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using blocks,
and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap, convenient!)
aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier stuff? The door lintel
will remain in place so they won't be load-bearing, and there's no sound
insulation issues that I'm concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet plastering
one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the rest of the wall
and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other side, which will
actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old wall) into which I
will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks


Lightweight blocks will be fine - but key it in to the existing doorway!

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
news
On 03/05/14 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using blocks,
and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap, convenient!)
aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier stuff? The door
lintel
will remain in place so they won't be load-bearing, and there's no sound
insulation issues that I'm concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet plastering
one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the rest of the wall
and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other side, which will
actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old wall) into which I
will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks


Lightweight blocks will be fine - but key it in to the existing doorway!

You would be best to hack the plaster back from the doorway about 100 or
150mm back from the door frame position on the "flush" side. Helps to hide
the joint.
You need to put some "scrim" over the joint when replastering, this will
stop a crack forming in the plaster.
Give the old brickwork a wetting down before you plaster to minimise
shrinking and maximise adhesion.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...equestid=10711

On 03 May 2014, GMM GlMiMa-AT-yahoo.co.uk grunted:

On 03/05/2014 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using
blocks, and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap,
convenient!) aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier
stuff? The door lintel will remain in place so they won't be
load-bearing, and there's no sound insulation issues that I'm
concerned about.

The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning on wet
plastering one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the
rest of the wall and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other
side, which will actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the old
wall) into which I will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks for all the replies

I wouldn't bank on the plaster around the door being level as it would
have been plastered by eye originally then made up with architrave
etc.
Trying to finish a job like this to a decent uniform level can be a
complete pain in my experience but you might get lucky!

As it happens, won't be a problem since this particular doorway was
installed not that long ago, certainly after the wall was originally
plastered.

Anyway, work has just come to a grinding halt since I've just been out
shopping and *all* the local B&Qs and Wickes are out of stock of blocks -
is there a national shortage or something?!! Will have to try the
builder's merchants but obviously am screwed for the bank holiday weekend :
(

--
David

Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/05/14 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using
blocks, and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap,
convenient!) aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier
stuff? The door lintel will remain in place so they won't be
load-bearing, and there's no sound insulation issues that I'm
concerned about. The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning
on wet
plastering one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the
rest of the wall and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other
side, which will actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the
old wall) into which I will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks


Lightweight blocks will be fine - but key it in to the existing
doorway!

Screw in ties are the norm these days, dog toothing is very rarely bothered
with anymore.


To the OP: like harry says, hack about 6 inches of plaster off on the side
you will be plastering, up each side and above the opening, this will blend
in better as there's often a lip, which means the entire thing is visible
afterwards

On 04/05/14 15:54, Phil L wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/05/14 19:22, Lobster wrote:
Am about to fill in an internal downstairs doorway ay home using
blocks, and am looking at the various different types.

Am I OK to use one skin of those very lightweight (cheap,
convenient!) aerated blocks for this or do I need to use heavier
stuff? The door lintel will remain in place so they won't be
load-bearing, and there's no sound insulation issues that I'm
concerned about. The existing wall is old brickwork, and I was planning
on wet
plastering one side of the old doorway, flush with and to match the
rest of the wall and minimise risk of cracks; and dryline the other
side, which will actually form an alcove (due to the depth of the
old wall) into which I will be fitting shelving at some point.

Have I got this about right?

Thanks


Lightweight blocks will be fine - but key it in to the existing
doorway!

Screw in ties are the norm these days, dog toothing is very rarely bothered
with anymore.

Sorry - by keying, I meant ties. I realise dog toothing would be
impractical and not necessary in this case.

I have done dog toothing when moving a doorway 1 ft over as there is no
way a 12" ish column of bricks will ever be stable even if ties in with
rebar let alone a strip!


To the OP: like harry says, hack about 6 inches of plaster off on the side
you will be plastering, up each side and above the opening, this will blend
in better as there's often a lip, which means the entire thing is visible
afterwards