I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years
ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin
projects from the valve body.
Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to
renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this
that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a
header tank)?

On Tuesday, 17 September 2013 18:48:32 UTC+1, Davidm wrote:
I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years

ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin

projects from the valve body.

Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to

renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this

that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a

header tank)?

Most valves have a gland nut on the valve body that can be tightened slightly to stop the leak BUT not too tight to stop the pin moving.

On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 11:07:34 -0700 (PDT), John G
wrote:

On Tuesday, 17 September 2013 18:48:32 UTC+1, Davidm wrote:
I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years

ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin

projects from the valve body.

Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to

renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this

that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a

header tank)?

Most valves have a gland nut on the valve body that can be tightened slightly to stop the leak BUT not too tight to stop the pin moving.
No gland nut on thse valves, the operating pin just projects through a
plastic insert in the top of the valve body (unless the nut is inside
the valve body - which would be pretty useless anyway).

On 17/09/2013 18:48, Davidm wrote:
I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years
ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin
projects from the valve body.
Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to
renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this
that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a
header tank)?


I guess you could turn off the rad at the other end, freeze the pipe to
the TRV and then drain just that rad. But I'd prob just drain the whole
thing when convenient. Not a huge amount of effort.

"Davidm" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 11:07:34 -0700 (PDT), John G
wrote:

On Tuesday, 17 September 2013 18:48:32 UTC+1, Davidm wrote:
I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years

ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin

projects from the valve body.

Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to

renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this

that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a

header tank)?

Most valves have a gland nut on the valve body that can be tightened
slightly to stop the leak BUT not too tight to stop the pin moving.
No gland nut on thse valves, the operating pin just projects through a
plastic insert in the top of the valve body (unless the nut is inside
the valve body - which would be pretty useless anyway).

It probably has an O ring. Some have PTFE packing.
Supposing you can get one, they can be replaced but sometimes they still
leak.
It's quite unusual to leak so soon. Have you got inhibitor in the water?
Could be a corrosion problem.
You'll likely end up replacing them. May as well wash the system out and
make sure you have inhibitor in.
Many inhibitors claim to have lubricators as well.

It's a good idea to "exercise" the valves by winding open and closed now and
then. (Keeps the spindle clean)

The best valves BTW have a bellows not an Oring.. Expensive.

On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 18:48:32 +0100, Davidm wrote:

Are they fixable or is the only solution to renew the whole thing?

Donno about fixable but I shoul imagine you can get replacement
inserts. Bit off they have started to leak after just four years. Get
in touch with Drayton and see what they have to
say.

Anyone have a magic solution for doing this that avoids draining the
system (it's an open vented system with a header tank)?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...s/Radiator+Val
ve+Change+Kit/d10/sd210/p31768

http://tinyurl.com/m3jhbc4

They do work, I've used them when a TRV here got stuck and I wanted
to take the insert out. Just make sure the system has no leaks and
only open it at *one* point at *any* time. There might be a little
spillage so still take precautions to protect carpets/decorations
etc.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 20:20:24 +0100, "harryagain"
wrote:


"Davidm" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 11:07:34 -0700 (PDT), John G
wrote:

On Tuesday, 17 September 2013 18:48:32 UTC+1, Davidm wrote:
I fitted new Drayton TRV4 radiator valves to all my rads about 4 years

ago, and already two of them have started leaking where the valve pin

projects from the valve body.

Is this a common problem? Are they fixable or is the only solution to

renew the whole thing? Anyone have a magic solution for doing this

that avoids draining the system (it's an open vented system with a

header tank)?

Most valves have a gland nut on the valve body that can be tightened
slightly to stop the leak BUT not too tight to stop the pin moving.
No gland nut on thse valves, the operating pin just projects through a
plastic insert in the top of the valve body (unless the nut is inside
the valve body - which would be pretty useless anyway).

It probably has an O ring. Some have PTFE packing.
Supposing you can get one, they can be replaced but sometimes they still
leak.
It's quite unusual to leak so soon. Have you got inhibitor in the water?
Could be a corrosion problem.
You'll likely end up replacing them. May as well wash the system out and
make sure you have inhibitor in.
Many inhibitors claim to have lubricators as well.

It's a good idea to "exercise" the valves by winding open and closed now and
then. (Keeps the spindle clean)

The best valves BTW have a bellows not an Oring.. Expensive.

Yes system has inhibitor in. I fitted the new TRV's just before a new
boiler was installed, and the whole system was power flushed at that
time (by the boiler installer - qualified plumber).

Looks like I'll just have to replace them. Exercising the valves is a
good tip - thanks.

I did look at the more expensive valves - OUCH! Even the TRV4s are
quite a bit more expensive now than when I bought the last lot.

On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 20:37:36 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 18:48:32 +0100, Davidm wrote:

Are they fixable or is the only solution to renew the whole thing?

Donno about fixable but I shoul imagine you can get replacement
inserts. Bit off they have started to leak after just four years. Get
in touch with Drayton and see what they have to
say.

Anyone have a magic solution for doing this that avoids draining the
system (it's an open vented system with a header tank)?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...s/Radiator+Val
ve+Change+Kit/d10/sd210/p31768

http://tinyurl.com/m3jhbc4

They do work, I've used them when a TRV here got stuck and I wanted
to take the insert out. Just make sure the system has no leaks and
only open it at *one* point at *any* time. There might be a little
spillage so still take precautions to protect carpets/decorations
etc.
Ah yes, I've got a couple of these, I guess I have to plug both the
feed and vent pipes at the tank. The "negative pressure" of the water
won't damage anything in the boiler will it? I've heard tales of
people who have seen hot water cylinders collapse when these plugs
have been used on the hot water side of an open vented system and then
opened a tap at the lowest point!

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 10:31:45 +0100, Davidm wrote:


http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...s/Radiator+Val

ve+Change+Kit/d10/sd210/p31768

http://tinyurl.com/m3jhbc4

Ah yes, I've got a couple of these, I guess I have to plug both the
feed and vent pipes at the tank.

Yep. If air can't get in, water can't get out.

The "negative pressure" of the water won't damage anything in the boiler
will it?

What "negative pressure"? Nothing is leaving the primary (or
shouldn't...) if anything does it means some thing has got in some
where. The system remains at it's static pressure determined by pure
head.

I've heard tales of people who have seen hot water cylinders collapse
when these plugs have been used on the hot water side of an open vented system and then opened a tap at the lowest point!

Well I guess there is the "pull" from the weight of water in the pipe
work below the cylinder. Which in a normal house with cylinder on
first floor and taps on ground could be could be around 8' of head or
1/4 atmosphere.

--
Cheers
Dave.

replying to Davidm, Skodasdad wrote:
Only replying so some others may know the answer as it's now 2019. You can get
a replacement seal and special key for these valves from Ebay (couldn't find
them anywhere else). There is a Drayton You Tube video that shows you exactly
how to do it and it takes about 5 minutes.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-922567-.htm

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 3:14:03 PM UTC+1, Skodasdad wrote:
replying to Davidm, Skodasdad wrote:
Only replying so some others may know the answer as it's now 2019. You can get
a replacement seal and special key for these valves from Ebay (couldn't find
them anywhere else). There is a Drayton You Tube video that shows you exactly
how to do it and it takes about 5 minutes.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-922567-.htm

Found one of ours had been quietly leaking for a while. Emailed Drayton and they said the seal should be tightend an eighth of a turn every year, then replaced when it bottoms out.

I've never heard this before, but Googling a line from their email, I found it's mentioned in their FAQ.

Sadly no free seals sent - they referred me to a supplier. I'd already ordered the kit of eBay anyway.

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 3:14:03 PM UTC+1, Skodasdad wrote:
replying to Davidm, Skodasdad wrote:
Only replying so some others may know the answer as it's now 2019. You can get
a replacement seal and special key for these valves from Ebay (couldn't find
them anywhere else). There is a Drayton You Tube video that shows you exactly
how to do it and it takes about 5 minutes.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-922567-.htm

Found one of ours had been quietly leaking for a while. Emailed Drayton and they said the seal should be tightend an eighth of a turn every year using a pair of long-nose pliers, then replaced when it bottoms out.

I've never heard this before, but Googling a line from their email, I found it's mentioned in Drayton's FAQ.

Sadly no free seals sent - they referred me to a supplier. I'd already ordered the kit off eBay anyway.

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 3:14:03 PM UTC+1, Skodasdad wrote:
replying to Davidm, Skodasdad wrote:
Only replying so some others may know the answer as it's now 2019. You can get
a replacement seal and special key for these valves from Ebay (couldn't find
them anywhere else). There is a Drayton You Tube video that shows you exactly
how to do it and it takes about 5 minutes.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-922567-.htm

Found one of ours had been quietly leaking for a while. Emailed Drayton and they said the seal should be tightend an eighth of a turn every year using a pair of long-nose pliers, then replaced when it bottoms out.

I've never heard this before, but Googling a line from their email, I found the email was simply a cut and past of Drayton FAQ about it - but it's not in their FAQ list, you can only find it by Googling!

Sadly no free seals sent - they referred me to a supplier. I'd already ordered the kit off eBay anyway.