Hi

I'd like to install a couple of outside lights on the side of our house
- nothing fancy, just a couple of those bulkhead lights or something to
light up what is currently at night a pitch black path from the back door
to the dustbin. I would like to minimise internal disruption when wiring
these up which basically means running most of the wiring externally,
clipped to the outside wall. It's just the side of the house so I'm
not bothered about the aesthetics.

I've done plenty of basic internal electrics - adding new lights & sockets
etc. - so I know how to do this in principle, but I'd like some advice
on materials & regulations for this particular job.

The questions that spring to mind a

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to withstand a
range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get knocked on odd
occasions?

- Best sort of fixings to use?

- Any regulations regarding positioning of cable runs?

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the house/necessity
to do so?

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

- Any other issues I have not considered?


Any advice gratefully accepted.

Thanks.

Ian

Ian wrote:
Hi

I'd like to install a couple of outside lights on the side of our
house - nothing fancy, just a couple of those bulkhead lights or
something to light up what is currently at night a pitch black path
from the back door to the dustbin. I would like to minimise internal
disruption when wiring these up which basically means running most of
the wiring externally, clipped to the outside wall. It's just the
side of the house so I'm
not bothered about the aesthetics.

I've done plenty of basic internal electrics - adding new lights &
sockets etc. - so I know how to do this in principle, but I'd like
some advice
on materials & regulations for this particular job.

The questions that spring to mind a

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to
withstand a range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get
knocked on odd occasions?

- Best sort of fixings to use?

- Any regulations regarding positioning of cable runs?

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the
house/necessity to do so?

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting
circuits?

- Any other issues I have not considered?


Any advice gratefully accepted.

Thanks.

Ian

I installed two 500W PIR lights using a switched fused spur from a socket in
my bedroom. The wiring from the spur (2.5mm T & E) goes into the loft and
the lights are wired in parallel from junction boxes. Drill through the
wall above each light position. Use normal round PVC twin & earth flex and
use silicone sealant on the exit holes. The advantage of my arrangement is
that the switch is above my bed and I can activate the lights immediately in
an emergency. Perhaps a better idea might be to locate a lighting supply in
your loft, but I would still recommend installing a switch somewhere in the
circuit.

Terry D.

On 16 Nov 2003 11:23:39 -0800, (Ian) wrote:

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to withstand a
range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get knocked on odd
occasions?

Weather resistant, certainly. But if the cable is going to get knocked
on occasion, where exactly are you planning to run this cable????

If the cable is going to get knocked then your light fittings are
surely going to be in harms way? Apart from having sensitive elements
that will blow at the slightest provocation, these fittings get VERY
hot! They have to be mounted high because if you knocked your head on
one you'd be suffering from both a bruised forehead and also a very
likely burn.

The light fittings must not be fitted immediately under the eaves
because of the heat problem - I think the gap is as much as 2 feet
away (600mm in that antiquated metric system we use).

Normally these cables drop down from the eaves.

- Best sort of fixings to use?

As supplied with the light fitting.

- Any regulations regarding positioning of cable runs?

See above.

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the house/necessity
to do so?

If dropped from the eaves then you don't need to worry.

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

Bear in mind that these fittings are (typically) 500W - which is 2
amps worth in real money. A lighting circuit is usually protected to
supply 5 amps. So with 2 on the same circuit you might be getting a
bit close to the limit.

- Any other issues I have not considered?

Location. Make sure that the light generated does not blind a car
driver on the local roads. These lights are intense, you wouldn't be
able to stare at them without giving your eyes a hard time.

PoP

Ian wrote:

The questions that spring to mind a

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to withstand a
range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get knocked on odd
occasions?

I did exactly as you describe with a pair of bulkhead lamps, and to
separate PIRs.

I ran the cable in 20mm heavy guage PVC conduit - looks pretty neat and
the bulkhead lights are designed so that side entry of power via conduit
is easy. It also saves any worry that you may damage the cable.

- Best sort of fixings to use?

I used these - they are seem to be one of the better looking bulkhead
lamps:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17936&ts=21563

- Any regulations regarding positioning of cable runs?

I went for lamps at about 8' - 9' from the ground level - one the side
wall of the house - one toward the front and one toward the back. The
PIRs placed a couple of meters outside of the lamp positions so that you
get a light come on if you walk round the side of the house from the
front or the back. Ideal for avoiding walking into my log pile!

The cables run up from their exit through the wall (at about 3') to the
same height as the lamps and then run horizontally.

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the house/necessity
to do so?

Using the coupler:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...11010&ts=21770

You drill / punch a 20mm hole in the bulkhead case and then thread this
though. The conduit pushes home firmly into the coupler. I added a small
amount of white silicone sealant into the various parts before
tightening up.

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

I wired it to the downstairs lighting circuit - in our case it was easy
to drill through near the consumer unit (which is on the inside of the
wall to which the lights are fixed). I used a ordinary lighting junction
box and switch on the inside (so I can override the PIRs and turn them
off completely if required). Then mounted one of these on the outside
over the hole I drilled through:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...12607&ts=21770

From there used the conduit (with a 1mm sq T&E inside) out to the two
light positions (the cable exit in my case being midway (ish) between
the light positions)

- Any other issues I have not considered?

Get a bending spring to bend the conduit, you will need a few clamps to
hold it to the wall, plus a cover and rubber washer for the conduit
junction box. Note the screws for fixing the covers are not included.

A quick review of the screwfix order gives the following order codes
which may save you a bit of searching:-

15901, 14832, 14128, 13093, 16493, 12389, 11291, 14678

I was pleasantly surprised to find a 60W bulb in each bulkhead gives
plenty of light to illuminate the path etc without blinding you if you
look at the lamp itself.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:47:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

I was pleasantly surprised to find a 60W bulb in each bulkhead gives
plenty of light to illuminate the path etc without blinding you if
you look at the lamp itself.

Please take note those that fit 500W or even 150W lamps. Though I note
that the lamps you fitted don't have a sheild/reflector to stop light
going upwards to the sky and being wasted.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"Ian" wrote in message
m...
Hi

I'd like to install a couple of outside lights on the side of our house
- nothing fancy, just a couple of those bulkhead lights or something to
light up what is currently at night a pitch black path from the back door
to the dustbin. I would like to minimise internal disruption when wiring
these up which basically means running most of the wiring externally,
clipped to the outside wall. It's just the side of the house so I'm
not bothered about the aesthetics.

I've done plenty of basic internal electrics - adding new lights & sockets
etc. - so I know how to do this in principle, but I'd like some advice
on materials & regulations for this particular job.

The questions that spring to mind a

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to withstand a
range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get knocked on odd
occasions?

- Best sort of fixings to use?

- Any regulations regarding positioning of cable runs?

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the house/necessity
to do so?

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

- Any other issues I have not considered?


Any advice gratefully accepted.

Thanks.

Ian

Just my point of view, but can I make a plea for you not to use bulkhead
lights? They shine light everywhere, up into the sky, and into people's
windows. Not a problem for you, but unwanted light from a neighbour
can be nearly as annoying as unwanted noise.
My suggestion is that you consider the snazzy looking full-cut-off
light and integrated PIR fixtures you can get at the DIY places now.
You can get 75W, 150W and I think 300W lamps and the lamp and PIR
sensors are independently moveable. You won't need 500W with a fixture
of this type as the light goes precisely where you want it. They retail at
about £10 - £13. I've seen 'em at Homebase and B&Q.

regards,

Andy.

"Ian" wrote in message
m...
Hi

I'd like to install a couple of outside lights on the side of our house
- nothing fancy, just a couple of those bulkhead lights or something to
light up what is currently at night a pitch black path from the back door
to the dustbin. I would like to minimise internal disruption when wiring
these up which basically means running most of the wiring externally,
clipped to the outside wall. It's just the side of the house so I'm
not bothered about the aesthetics.

I've done plenty of basic internal electrics - adding new lights & sockets
etc. - so I know how to do this in principle, but I'd like some advice
on materials & regulations for this particular job.

The questions that spring to mind a

- Type of cable to use? Presumably weather-resistant, able to withstand a
range of temperatures, maybe armoured as liable to get knocked on odd
occasions?

I use ordinary T&E inside heavy gauge 20mm PVC conduit. Plenty of solvent on
the joints and solvent welding the access plates on makes it watertight, but
do allow for condensation to drain out somewhere. A 4-5mm hole at the bottom
of a run will usually suffice.

- Best sort of fixings to use?

I use a mix of low energy floodlights, for area lighting, and cheap
bulkehead lights with 9W low energy lamps, for places that need better local
lighting, like over a door. You don't need huge amounts of light outside at
night. The bulkhead lights I use (from the Massive range) have frosted
covers, which can be painted inside with silver paint, to prevent light
spread in the wrong directions, without it being obvious when the lights are
off.

- How to weatherproof the holes where the cable enters the house/necessity
to do so?

With PCV conduit, use a joint box with a rear entry and take the conduit
right through the wall.

- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

I put 30mA RCBOs on any outside circuit, including the lights.

Colin Bignell

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:47:49 +0000, John Rumm wrote:


I was pleasantly surprised to find a 60W bulb in each bulkhead gives
plenty of light to illuminate the path etc without blinding you if
you look at the lamp itself.


Please take note those that fit 500W or even 150W lamps. Though I note
that the lamps you fitted don't have a sheild/reflector to stop light
going upwards to the sky and being wasted.

I did think about if it was worth finding some other form of luminair
(or shielding the ones I used) to cut down on light leakage. In the end
I decided that I could cope without, since the eves of our house would
stop loss straight up, the gap to the next door property is only 8' or
so - so that catches most of the rest. Finally the PIRs are set to keep
each light on for only 10 secs or so after activation (and tuned to not
activate to often!)

Having said that the light level is helped by both houses being painted
a lightish colour - it tends to maximise the effect of the light
"captured" between them.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Hi Ian,

"Ian" wrote in message
m...
Hi

[snipped outside light query]

Any advice gratefully accepted.

Use TRIPLE and Earth cable for the wiring: live, earth, neutral and also
Switched Live.
Wire up a double-gang light switch inside the house: the first switch for
power to the PIRs
so that you can switch them off in high winds, and the second to connect the
switched
power to the extra wire in the cable so that you can override the PIR
sensors when they
ultimately fail and it reverts back to a simple on/off light.
The bulbs get connected to the Switched Live cable.

Replace all steel screws in the external lights with brass or stainless
steel. It may seem a doddle
to connect the new light fittings when they are new; just try changing a
bulb a year down the line
whilst at the top of a ladder and the old screw having rusted into the case!
Especially do this to the clip that holds the bulb cover in place. Don't
skip this step; it's a pure
b*gger and I should know because I've had to change said screws in friends
and relatives houses!

Just my tuppence

Mungo

"Mungo Henning" wrote in message ...

Replace all steel screws in the external lights with brass or stainless
steel. It may seem a doddle
to connect the new light fittings when they are new; just try changing a
bulb a year down the line
whilst at the top of a ladder and the old screw having rusted into the case!
Especially do this to the clip that holds the bulb cover in place. Don't
skip this step; it's a pure
b*gger and I should know because I've had to change said screws in friends
and relatives houses!

Just my tuppence

Mungo

I like using the GE "light in a box" 2D bulkhead lanterns wich are
energy efficant and have a little triangle key to remove the shade to
acces the lamp/gear tray.
To stop screws rusting up outside the simple answer is to put some
grease on it.

Jon.

"John Southern" wrote in message
om...


I like using the GE "light in a box" 2D bulkhead lanterns wich are
energy efficant and have a little triangle key to remove the shade to
acces the lamp/gear tray.
To stop screws rusting up outside the simple answer is to put some
grease on it.

If it works for you then who am I to complain. But picture the scene: it's
winter time, there's a 30mph howling wind blowing, there's a PIR floodlight
mounted about ten feet off the ground, I'm up the ladder with a hacksaw in
order to saw through the rusted bolt just to get the glass front open to
replace the broken bulb.
Of course, as I cut through the rusty bolt the cover falls forward and the
glass pirhouettes (sp?) out to meet the concrete some ten feet below it...

Hence the emphasis on ensuring that whatever cover connection is used try
and
make sure that it will last against the elements.
Methinks grease on a 500w light will soon be burnt off, so tis the brass
screws
for me again.


Mungo

"Terry D" wrote in message news:FuStb.1132$
I installed two 500W PIR lights using a switched fused spur from a socket in
my bedroom. The wiring from the spur (2.5mm T & E) goes into the loft and
the lights are wired in parallel from junction boxes. Drill through the
wall above each light position. Use normal round PVC twin & earth flex and
use silicone sealant on the exit holes. The advantage of my arrangement is
that the switch is above my bed and I can activate the lights immediately in
an emergency. Perhaps a better idea might be to locate a lighting supply in
your loft, but I would still recommend installing a switch somewhere in the
circuit.

Terry D.

Thanks Terry, but I want to be able to switch this from the kitchen.
I am intending to follow up my original posting as I don't think I
described it very well to begin with, and also to respond generally
to the ideas in this thread.

Ian

Hi PoP

I'm intending to post a followup to my original message
that addresses some off your comments and others on this
thread. Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.

Ian

Thanks John

This was extremely helpful to me.

Ian

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
Just my point of view, but can I make a plea for you not to use bulkhead
lights? They shine light everywhere, up into the sky, and into people's
windows. Not a problem for you, but unwanted light from a neighbour
can be nearly as annoying as unwanted noise.
My suggestion is that you consider the snazzy looking full-cut-off
light and integrated PIR fixtures you can get at the DIY places now.
You can get 75W, 150W and I think 300W lamps and the lamp and PIR
sensors are independently moveable. You won't need 500W with a fixture
of this type as the light goes precisely where you want it. They retail at
about £10 - £13. I've seen 'em at Homebase and B&Q.

regards,

Andy.

Hi Andy

Thanks for this - the light pollution aspect hadn't really occurred
to me. I thought of using bulkheads as (i) they are cheap and (ii)
my next door neighbour has one and it seems to work OK on his side
of the path.

To be fair there isn't a lot of space between the two houses so most
of the light is going to be trapped. But I am interested in your
suggestion. Trouble is I'm not really sure what I am looking for.
Do I need to go and find something called a 'full-cut-off light' -
i.e. does that fully describe what I need to go and buy?

Please not I definitely don't want the security style lights or
those naff lantern things.

Thanks,

Ian

"nightjar" nightjar@insert my surname here.uk.com wrote in message
- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting circuits?

I put 30mA RCBOs on any outside circuit, including the lights.

Colin Bignell

Hi Colin

Thanks for the tips.

I must admit I haven't come across RCBOs before - looking on the TLC
site it seems to be a combination of a MCB and RCD. What you are saying
seems to imply a completely separate circuit. Are there any alternatives to
this - e.g. adding some extra protection to a spur taken from an internal
ring main circuit or internal lighting circuit.

Ian

(John Southern) wrote in message

I like using the GE "light in a box" 2D bulkhead lanterns wich are
energy efficant and have a little triangle key to remove the shade to
acces the lamp/gear tray.
To stop screws rusting up outside the simple answer is to put some
grease on it.

Jon.

Thanks Jon,

Are these lights widely available - or is there somewhere online
I can get them. I didn't see them on TLC, but I didn't have time
for a good look.

Ian

Many thanks to all who have replied to this thread. I realise
from some of the replies that my description of what I want to
achieve could have been clearer so I'm replying to my own
original message.

First of all, these are not security lights and there was never
any requirement for the high wattage halogen type things - I just
want a bit of light so that I can take something out the back
to the bin at night without stepping in dog poo (our dog has
access to the outside via a flap on the back door).

Secondly, I had never really considered using PIRs - I imagined
having a switch next to the back door, though the replies I have
received have given me cause to reconsider this. Even so, I want
it to be possible to switch the light on or off (overriding
any PIR) from somewhere in the kitchen, even if it is not as
convenient as being a switch next to the door.
This, together with the requirement that there be minimal internal
disruption is what led me to the conclusion that most of the runs
of wiring need to be on the outside and why the approach that was
suggested of dropping the wiring down from the eaves would not work
- there is no easy way internally to get cable from the loft to
the kitchen.

Perhaps I should explain my original intention a bit better. The
door is on the side of the house. The understairs cupboard ('pantry')
is accessed from the kitchen and is where the consumer unit is
located. One of the walls of this cupboard is part of the side
wall of the house. What I had therefore imagined doing was to
effectively add a couple of lights to the downstairs light circuit,
with the cables on the outside of the house, only entering for
the switch next to the back door and into the pantry to connect
into the circuit.

This would have entailed a couple of vertical runs of cable that
would enter the house at a relatively low level. It is these that
I was particularly concerned might get knocked occasionally. (The
sort of situation I have in mind is where I am carrying an armful
of prunings from the back garden down the side path to the front
of the house. My experience is that they tend to scrape along the
wall, and catch on obstacles, though the force they exert is not
immense.)

If I go with the PIR idea and forget about the need for a convenient
switch next to the back door, I can get this down to one vertical run
that enters at the top of the pantry (about 5 feet off the ground).
I can put a slightly less convenient switch in the pantry for
overriding when I need it, but rely on the PIRs for day-to-day
convenience. Also, I can run this vertical cable behind the soil
pipe, so it should be pretty well protected.

In the light of the helpful replies (thanks to John in particular for
the screwfix details), I will use heavy duty PVC trunking. Is the
screwfix stuff definitely suitable for exterior use? Also, it was
suggested to use standard cable inside trunking - is this OK? As
far as I can see, only the temperature aspect of the weather will
have a bearing.

I'd like to take on board the comments about light pollution
from the bulkhead style lights. However, I would re-iterate that
these lights are to go on the side of the house. Also, next door
is about 7 ft away, so the light is not going to get much chance to
'escape', and next door already have a light of this type. They will
only be switched on for short periods anyway. Having said this,
I'll look into the "light in a box" that Jon recommended, and the
units that Andy recommended.

Thanks once again for all the help - brilliant response as usual.

-
Ian

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
Just my point of view, but can I make a plea for you not to use bulkhead
lights? They shine light everywhere, up into the sky, and into people's
windows. Not a problem for you, but unwanted light from a neighbour
can be nearly as annoying as unwanted noise.
My suggestion is that you consider the snazzy looking full-cut-off
light and integrated PIR fixtures you can get at the DIY places now.
You can get 75W, 150W and I think 300W lamps and the lamp and PIR
sensors are independently moveable. You won't need 500W with a fixture
of this type as the light goes precisely where you want it. They retail at
about £10 - £13. I've seen 'em at Homebase and B&Q.

regards,

Andy.

Hi Andy

Thanks for this - the light pollution aspect hadn't really occurred
to me. I thought of using bulkheads as (i) they are cheap and (ii)
my next door neighbour has one and it seems to work OK on his side
of the path.

To be fair there isn't a lot of space between the two houses so most
of the light is going to be trapped. But I am interested in your
suggestion. Trouble is I'm not really sure what I am looking for.
Do I need to go and find something called a 'full-cut-off light' -
i.e. does that fully describe what I need to go and buy?

Please not I definitely don't want the security style lights or
those naff lantern things.

Thanks,

Ian

"Ian" wrote in message
om...
"nightjar" nightjar@insert my surname here.uk.com wrote in message
- I am assuming I can wire this into one of my existing lighting
circuits?

I put 30mA RCBOs on any outside circuit, including the lights.

Colin Bignell

Hi Colin

Thanks for the tips.

I must admit I haven't come across RCBOs before - looking on the TLC
site it seems to be a combination of a MCB and RCD.

Exactly.

What you are saying
seems to imply a completely separate circuit. Are there any alternatives
to
this - e.g. adding some extra protection to a spur taken from an internal
ring main circuit or internal lighting circuit.

Certainly you could fit a 30mA RCD onto an existing circuit, although I
would never run lights off a ring main. The MCB will not protect 1.0mm or
1.5mm cable, while 2.5mm cable can be difficult to use in many light
fittings. It can also be confusing to someone coming after you to have to
isolate a ring main to be able to work on a light.

I prefer to have a number of different circuits, so that tripping any
protection will only take out a fairly small part of the system. That is
also why I use RCBOs on individual circuits, rather than MCBs run off a
common RCD.

Colin Bignell

Ian wrote:

First of all, these are not security lights and there was never
any requirement for the high wattage halogen type things - I just
want a bit of light so that I can take something out the back

That was my reason for fitting them - setup so that you get light should
you approach the bin from either front or back doors.

to the bin at night without stepping in dog poo (our dog has
access to the outside via a flap on the back door).

Interesting idea - ours still has a conventional sphincter.... Oh I see
what you mean! ;-)

Perhaps I should explain my original intention a bit better. The
door is on the side of the house. The understairs cupboard ('pantry')
is accessed from the kitchen and is where the consumer unit is
located. One of the walls of this cupboard is part of the side
wall of the house. What I had therefore imagined doing was to

Pretty much the setup we have - I selected the consumer unit cupboard
(to call it a pantry in our case would be over egging it a bit!) since
it was an easy place to find power and was on the right wall.

If I go with the PIR idea and forget about the need for a convenient
switch next to the back door, I can get this down to one vertical run

My switch is in the "pantry" as such... must admit I have never found
the need to switch the light off manually as yet, the PIRs work well.
Might be handy at bulb changing time though.

that enters at the top of the pantry (about 5 feet off the ground).
I can put a slightly less convenient switch in the pantry for
overriding when I need it, but rely on the PIRs for day-to-day
convenience. Also, I can run this vertical cable behind the soil
pipe, so it should be pretty well protected.

In our case the power comes in overhead and runs down the wall in a
vertical conduit before going through the wall to the power company fuse
etc. Hence to avoid having to make an ugly crossover of conduits, I
brought my own connection out about a foot below this and wired out to
each lamp from the-

#
#
PIR-------LAMP-------- # ----------LAMP--------PIR
| # |
| # |
| # |
| # |
| # |
| # |
| # |
| |
| |
----O-----

Where '#' indicates the incoming feed from the overhead wire, and 'O' is
the conduit 2 way junction box.

(The second PIR on the right I actually took about a foot round the
corner of the house, so that it is on the back wall of the house near
the back door - this was to avoid it "looking" anywhere near the boilers
flue)

In the light of the helpful replies (thanks to John in particular for
the screwfix details), I will use heavy duty PVC trunking. Is the
screwfix stuff definitely suitable for exterior use? Also, it was
suggested to use standard cable inside trunking - is this OK? As
far as I can see, only the temperature aspect of the weather will
have a bearing.

The conduit is pretty thick walled stuff. If in doubt you can give it a
coat of paint at some point to protect it from UV light which will tend
to make it brittle over prolonged exposure.

The temperature is not too much of a problem. The PVC insulation on the
cable is good for at least 70 deg C. The lower limit is less important
since its the flexibility that goes in the cold - and this setup won't
(with luck) be moving anywhere.

It is usually simpler to get individual wires through conduit rather
than complete PVC sheathed flat cable. Depends much on how many wires
and how long the run of conduit is. In my case I fed a bit of gardening
wire through first and pulled the cable with that. With hindsight I
should have bought an electricians fish tape:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...14033&id=14072

Rather than use three core and earth, I took the feed cable through the
bulkhead lamp and out to the PIR and then had a second cable back to the
lamp. Hence the short straight 1.5m run between the PIR and bulkhead
has two cables in it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Ian" wrote
| To be fair there isn't a lot of space between the two houses so
| most of the light is going to be trapped. But I am interested
| in your suggestion. Trouble is I'm not really sure what I am
| looking for. Do I need to go and find something called a
| 'full-cut-off light' - i.e. does that fully describe what I
| need to go and buy?

Prima Eyelid Bulkhead
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GLM5100.html

Owain