In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

--
*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to act
as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know this
is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they don;t have
PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.


I wrap a wet cloth round the pvc sheath, then use a very large iron so the
job is able to be done quickly. If you do not have a very large iron, a fine
blowlamp directed on the lug as you feed solder down the back of it will do
the job.

AWEM

In article ,
Rick Hughes writes:
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

I sometimes solder inaccessible T&E connections, although I don't
know if you are using standard T&E.

The PVC insulation on 70C T&E PVC does seem to be significantly less
able to withstand soldering than that on most connecting wires which
you are likely to have soldered. If you solder it, make sure there
are no forces on the PVC, e.g. dead straight into the connector or
it will peel off the conductor as it attemps to straighten out, and
nothing pressing against it as it will push through.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 03/05/2013 13:39, Andrew Gabriel wrote:


The PVC insulation on 70C T&E PVC does seem to be significantly less
able to withstand soldering than that on most connecting wires which
you are likely to have soldered. If you solder it, make sure there
are no forces on the PVC, e.g. dead straight into the connector or
it will peel off the conductor as it attemps to straighten out, and
nothing pressing against it as it will push through.


This is single core 16mm2 stranded 'starter cable'

In article , Rick Hughes
scribeth thus
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

Just get on with it Rick, it is not rocket science!. Use a small gas
blowlamp get the joint hot quick, solder quick and make sure it "runs"
into the joint OK.

Have a damp rag handy to hold the plastic sheathing in and cool it
quickly.

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then. By the look of the cable
size its going to take quite some current and you really don't want a
high resistance duff joint else look forward to arcing and fire and
smoke and damage!...
--
Tony Sayer

On Fri, 3 May 2013 13:41:00 +0100, tony sayer wrote:

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then.

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable crimp
tool would be my approach to start with.

By the look of the cable size its going to take quite some current and
you really don't want a high resistance duff joint else look forward to
arcing and fire and smoke and damage!...

Agreed, soldering is OK but remember that you need a good mechnical joint
as well. In this high current case even more so IMHO.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 03/05/2013 16:27, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2013 13:41:00 +0100, tony sayer wrote:

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then.

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable crimp
tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool. Yes, it's a bit painful in
comparison to the cost of the crimps, but I'd justify it as 11 quid a
joint and you end up with a potentially useful tool.

On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 03/05/2013 22:34, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

The link he gave originally led to two tools, one 1.5-16mm, one 6mm-25mm
I think. I'd probably buy one, partly because it's always good getting
another tool :-)

On Fri, 03 May 2013 22:34:45 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

Just wrap the wires around the terminals if you aren't happy about
soldering or proper crimping.
To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

Isn't crimping also a hairdressing term?

(d&rfc)
--
Frank Erskine