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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

Hi,

I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back yard wall.

it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.

The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. I'm trying to get at least an 18" hole, so the posts can be rock solid.

2) Gas, electric, cable lines come in at the front of the house, but there's still sewars and water lines probably entering at the back (water meter is in back yard outhouse and there's a man hole in the back yard). I'm wary of hitting anything. How can I find out where these services reside and how deep they are?

There's going to be 4 fence posts and two of those are firmly affixed to the brick walls at either side, so only two posts need to be stuck into the ground. I'm planning to use arris rails and vertical feather edge boards, and I'm wondering if fence posts postcreted into shallow 8" holes could be strong enough given the posts are close together and close to wall anchored posts. Or is this asking for trouble?

Cheers,
imanc
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 17/03/13 21:38, imanc wrote:
Hi,

I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.

it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.

The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft
distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick
walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the
ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. I'm
trying to get at least an 18" hole, so the posts can be rock solid.

2) Gas, electric, cable lines come in at the front of the house, but
there's still sewars and water lines probably entering at the back
(water meter is in back yard outhouse and there's a man hole in the back
yard). I'm wary of hitting anything. How can I find out where these
services reside and how deep they are?

There's going to be 4 fence posts and two of those are firmly affixed to
the brick walls at either side, so only two posts need to be stuck into
the ground. I'm planning to use arris rails and vertical feather edge
boards, and I'm wondering if fence posts postcreted into shallow 8"
holes could be strong enough given the posts are close together and
close to wall anchored posts. Or is this asking for trouble?


If the foundations go deep enough than concreting the posts to those
somehow will be good.

Or hire a digger and tear the foundations up, and then use the trench
left to set the posts in.

if you go carefully and trench down one side first you should see if you
are about to rip up cables or pipes.

sledge hammer is better than cold chisel BTW. smash them stuff up and
pick it out with a pick. If you want to do it the hard way
..



Cheers,
imanc






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lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
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diminishing number of producers.

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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On Mar 17, 9:38*pm, imanc wrote:
Hi,

I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.

it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. *However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.

The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft
distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick
walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the
ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. *I'm
trying to get at least an 18" hole, so the posts can be rock solid.

2) Gas, electric, cable lines come in at the front of the house, but
there's still sewars and water lines probably entering at the back
(water meter is in back yard outhouse and there's a man hole in the back
yard). *I'm wary of hitting anything. *How can I find out where these
services reside and how deep they are?

There's going to be 4 fence posts and two of those are firmly affixed to
the brick walls at either side, so only two posts need to be stuck into
the ground. I'm planning to use arris rails and vertical feather edge
boards, and I'm wondering if fence posts postcreted into shallow 8"
holes could be strong enough given the posts are close together and
close to wall anchored posts. *Or is this asking for trouble?

Cheers,
imanc

--
imanc


Go down to the tool hire place and hire a breaker for half a day. Just
make sure you don't hit any services.
Or get yourself a long crowbar to prise bricks out.
Something four or five feet long.
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

"imanc" wrote in message ...


Hi,

I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.

it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.

The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft
distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick
walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the
ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. I'm


I doubt there will be any services to worry about in the foundation of the
old wall. You do need to go down more than 8", why not hire a Kango for half
a day?

Mike

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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 17/03/2013 21:38, imanc wrote:
Hi,

I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.

it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.

The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft
distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick
walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the
ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. I'm
trying to get at least an 18" hole, so the posts can be rock solid.


If there is car access, there is access for a small digger, which will
be a lot less work.

2) Gas, electric, cable lines come in at the front of the house, but
there's still sewars and water lines probably entering at the back
(water meter is in back yard outhouse and there's a man hole in the back
yard). I'm wary of hitting anything. How can I find out where these
services reside and how deep they are?


Open the manhole and look which way the drains run. You could also ask
the utilities if their maps show where they enter the property.

There's going to be 4 fence posts and two of those are firmly affixed to
the brick walls at either side, so only two posts need to be stuck into
the ground. I'm planning to use arris rails and vertical feather edge
boards, and I'm wondering if fence posts postcreted into shallow 8"
holes could be strong enough given the posts are close together and
close to wall anchored posts. Or is this asking for trouble?


Fence posts should be 1/3 underground and 2/3 above ground, so 8" would
be OK for a 16" high fence. If you want the fence to last, use concrete
posts and concrete gravel boards.

Personally, I would use the existing foundations as the base for a new wall.

Colin Bignell



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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

In article , Muddymike wrote:
"imanc" wrote in message ...
The fence is being erected between two brick walls (about 11ft
distance), and I've already fixed two 3" thick fence posts to the brick
walls at either side. Now I need to insert two fence posts into the
ground which will be ~ 4.5 feet apart.

Two issues:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole.


I doubt there will be any services to worry about in the foundation of the
old wall. You do need to go down more than 8", why not hire a Kango for half
a day?


If it's bonded into the old foundation, I would have thought an 8" hole was
adequate to use a concreted in or bolt down Metpost, even if it's not the
neatest solution.
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 18/03/2013 09:52, Nightjar wrote:
Fence posts should be 1/3 underground and 2/3 above ground, so 8" would
be OK for a 16" high fence. If you want the fence to last, use concrete
posts and concrete gravel boards


Doesn't this rather depend on the nature of the ground?

We're on sand here (OK, very sandy soil) and 1/4 underground appears to
be fine. All the failures I have seen have been post rot, not uprooting.

Andy
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

In article ,
imanc wrote:

1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challengingusing
a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to removetwo bricks
from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole. I'mtrying to get at
least an 18" hole, so the posts can be rock solid.


You can get a heavy, long, steel chisel type affair -- I *think* that
this is what I mean:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/professional...ar/invt/190344
/

John
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 18/03/2013 13:55, Andy Champ wrote:
On 18/03/2013 09:52, Nightjar wrote:
Fence posts should be 1/3 underground and 2/3 above ground, so 8" would
be OK for a 16" high fence. If you want the fence to last, use concrete
posts and concrete gravel boards


Doesn't this rather depend on the nature of the ground?

We're on sand here (OK, very sandy soil) and 1/4 underground appears to
be fine. All the failures I have seen have been post rot, not uprooting.

Andy


It is a good rule of thumb, which also assumes that the post is properly
secured for the soil conditions. You can get away with less, but you are
then betting we won't get another Great Storm.

Colin Bignell
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On Sunday, 17 March 2013 21:38:47 UTC, imanc wrote:
Hi,


I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.



it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.




1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole.


If the bricks are so well fixed down why not bolt the posts to the brick using brackets?


Robert



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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 18/03/2013 15:31, Nightjar wrote:
On 18/03/2013 13:55, Andy Champ wrote:
On 18/03/2013 09:52, Nightjar wrote:
Fence posts should be 1/3 underground and 2/3 above ground, so 8" would
be OK for a 16" high fence. If you want the fence to last, use concrete
posts and concrete gravel boards


Doesn't this rather depend on the nature of the ground?

We're on sand here (OK, very sandy soil) and 1/4 underground appears to
be fine. All the failures I have seen have been post rot, not uprooting.

Andy


It is a good rule of thumb, which also assumes that the post is properly
secured for the soil conditions. You can get away with less, but you are
then betting we won't get another Great Storm.

Colin Bignell


Just use slot in post and cheap fence panels - any high wind will blow
out the panels without moving the posts at all

SteveW

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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 18/03/2013 15:51, RobertL wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2013 21:38:47 UTC, imanc wrote:
Hi,


I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.



it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.




1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole.


If the bricks are so well fixed down why not bolt the posts to the brick using brackets?


Robert


Instead of working on a theory (not being funny) set one post as you
have it (a couple of layer of brick removed) let it set for a couple of
weeks and knock F... out of it with a sledge hammer and see what
happens. That would give a good indication if its likely to stay put in
a storm or keel over. Otherwise keep digging or take a chance.
:-)
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WHen you say "use the existing foundation", what does that mean? Does it mean I can dig a shallower than normal hole, fill to concrete or postcrete safe in the knowledge that the concrete will bind the post and itself to the already rock solid foundation? Or do you mean something else?

I'm leaning towards hiring a breaker tomorrow and finishing off these holes.

I've had trouble trying to lift the drain cover, which looks like it hasnt' been lifted in about 100 years. But it is inline with a large stone that was obviously laid across the previous gate. I'm hoping the drain exits the property in a straight line, which means it'll go under this stone, which means I'm clear.

I plan to work it slowly, brick by brick, with the breaker and see how it fairs.

Though that long wrecking bar from wickes looks interesting.. hmm
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Default Trouble digging fence post holes...

On 18/03/2013 22:21, ss wrote:
On 18/03/2013 15:51, RobertL wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2013 21:38:47 UTC, imanc wrote:
Hi,


I'm trying to erect a fence over the site of my house's previous back
yard wall.



it's a victorian terrace and most of the walls on the row have been
removed so people can park their cars in their back gardens. However
due to having dogs and no car, I need a fence.




1) Getting through the brick foundation is proving extremely challenging
using a cold chisel and standard hammer drill. I've managed to remove
two bricks from one of the holes, and have produced a ~7inch hole.


If the bricks are so well fixed down why not bolt the posts to the
brick using brackets?


Robert


Instead of working on a theory (not being funny) set one post as you
have it (a couple of layer of brick removed) let it set for a couple of
weeks and knock F... out of it with a sledge hammer and see what
happens. That would give a good indication if its likely to stay put in
a storm or keel over. Otherwise keep digging or take a chance.
:-)


Whacking the posts with a sledgehammer will show if they are going to
fail, but I rather doubt it would replicate the loads the wind can exert.

Assuming the fence is 6ft tall and given the description of four posts
(i.e three sections) at 4'6" spacing, a fairly modest 60mph wind would
give a wind load on it of around 3/4 of a ton. To survive the 120mph (or
possibly more - the anemometer at Shoreham by Sea failed at that point)
gusts experienced in SE England during the Great Storm, it would need to
withstand around 2.7 tons wind loading.

Colin Bignell
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