I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.

Cheers

Dave R

On 02/02/2013 16:01, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

I have had this happen on a fairly pricey SSD in the past...

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of air
usually. So you can paint some on the broken edge, and also on the side
where it will be against the back of the "pins", and still have some
working time. Slide it down the pins into place, and get it into
position. Support it will a stick or spatula to hold it in place, and
give it a squirt of Cyano accelerator. The will lock it in position
pretty much instantly. Leave for a few mins to cure fully.

I have a load of SATA to Molex power adaptor leads - so I then stuck on
of those on it so that I could disconnect it at the other end of the
lead at a later date if required.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?

Cheers

Dave R

On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?

No, its a volatile solvent based stuff... It gasifies almost immediately.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:14:50 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 02/02/2013 16:01, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.
snip

I have a load of SATA to Molex power adaptor leads - so I then stuck on
of those on it so that I could disconnect it at the other end of the
lead at a later date if required.

Just looked and there are SATA power lead extenders so I may go with one
of those - although I have been pointed in 'uk.comp.homebuilt' to
connectors which combine a SATA data lead and power lead (much like the
adapters for external USB drives) with a Molex adapter.

This could be more rigid that just a power extension.

http://dx.com/p/sata-7-15p-sata-7-4p-data-power-cable-30cm-length-58857
and
http://www.maplin.co.uk/sata-ii-r-a-...molex-sata-ii-
cable-351963
and
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-com...ombo-Cable/dp/
B004NO0KIQ/


Cheers

Dave R

On 02/02/2013 16:45, Huge wrote:
On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of air
usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

Indeed - sorry I was thinking of the threadlock style glues...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 02/02/2013 17:02, Huge wrote:

BTW, the shelf life of cyanoacrylates can be greatly extended by keeping
them in the 'frig. The 25ml bottle I got from Screwfix is still going
strong several years later, with refrigeration and careful handling (get
the top back on *fast* to expose it to the air as little as possible.)



Yes. I keep mine in the freezer - as recommended in all the best model
aircraft magazines! It remains liquid and is ready for instant use but
lasts for a few years.

Another Dave

En el artículo , Huge
escribió:

The 25ml bottle I got from Screwfix is still going
strong several years later, with refrigeration and careful handling (get
the top back on *fast* to expose it to the air as little as possible.)

Ta for the tip, now moved to the fridge.

I also blow into the nozzle (NOT applying lips!) sharply to clear the
hole, and don't screw the top back on tight, just enough to close it.
That prevents it from clogging up and having to be cleared with a
paperclip or similar next time you use it.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

En el artículo , David.WE.Roberts
escribió:

I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Salvage the power/data assembly from a dead drive and swap it over?

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On 02/02/2013 16:59, Huge wrote:
On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?

No, its a volatile solvent based stuff... It gasifies almost immediately.

Ethanol.

My tin (siroflex) says "contains Heptane, Hexane mixture of isomers
(max5% n-Hexane". Not sure what proportion of that is active ingredient
and what is just propellant though.

It appears that baking soda is also a decent accelerator.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 02/02/13 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?

it can. a sweaty thmb on one bit works..

Cheers

Dave R



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 17:48:38 +0000, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artÃ*culo , David.WE.Roberts
escribió:

I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Salvage the power/data assembly from a dead drive and swap it over?

Not having a dead Seagate SATA 6Gb/sec drive lying around that isn't
really an option.
[Well, apart from one with a dead power connector...]

There is also the suggestion that the PCB is specifically tuned for the
individual drive.

This is the justification Seagate use for not repairing drives or
supplying spare parts.

Cheers

Dave R

En el artículo , David.WE.Roberts
escribió:

There is also the suggestion that the PCB is specifically tuned for the
individual drive.

I meant desoldering and swapping the connector, not swapping the PCB.

Yes, the days when you could recover data from a failed drive by
swapping the PCB from a known working one are long gone.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...ct-871107-.htm
DA wrote:
David.WE.Roberts wrote:

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Sounds like a perfect application for quick setting epoxy a.k.a. "1 min epoxy" - Epoxy resin/Polymercaptan hardener. Loctite makes it and I'm sure plenty others do, too. It has no problem gluing metal to plastic and once cured, becomes super strong and impact resistant, unlike brittle superglue. Sets in 1 min - gives you plenty of time to position the bits and reaches max strength in 5-10 mins. There's also 5 minute epoxy which sets in, well, 5 minutes and max strength in 1 hr.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_1MIN_tds.pdf
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_5MIN_tds.pdf

Good luck!
--

/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

"David.WE.Roberts" wrote in message
...
I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the
bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.

Cheers

Dave R


Hold together with blu tack.
Then use a bead of superglue.

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 18:44:02 +0000, DA wrote:

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...-setting-than-
superglue-sata-power-connect-871107-.htm
DA wrote:
David.WE.Roberts wrote:

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Sounds like a perfect application for quick setting epoxy a.k.a. "1 min
epoxy" - Epoxy resin/Polymercaptan hardener. Loctite makes it and I'm
sure plenty others do, too. It has no problem gluing metal to plastic
and once cured, becomes super strong and impact resistant, unlike
brittle superglue. Sets in 1 min - gives you plenty of time to position
the bits and reaches max strength in 5-10 mins. There's also 5 minute
epoxy which sets in, well, 5 minutes and max strength in 1 hr.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_1MIN_tds.pdf
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_5MIN_tds.pdf

Good luck!

Thanks :-)

Although the superglue is only a temporary measure before a connector is
fixed permanently on, a more robust solution does have its attractions.

Cheers

Dave R

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 18:41:57 +0000, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artÃ*culo , David.WE.Roberts
escribió:

There is also the suggestion that the PCB is specifically tuned for the
individual drive.

I meant desoldering and swapping the connector, not swapping the PCB.

Yes, the days when you could recover data from a failed drive by
swapping the PCB from a known working one are long gone.

I think my glueing is better than my soldering.

Although I don't have any dead SATA drives - all my corpses are PATA.

Cheers

Dave R

On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?


You huff on the join - the moisture in your breath will set it off.


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 02/02/2013 16:01, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.

Cheers

Dave R

Epoxy

In message om,
newshound writes
On 02/02/2013 16:01, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.

Cheers

Dave R

Epoxy

Ordinary (non-gel) superglue is very good at creeping (usually into
somewhere you didn't really want it). It's often better to clamp/tape
the broken bits together first (but not excessively tightly), and apply
the superglue so that it creeps into the join. Then leave it strictly
alone. If necessary, apply a drop of water or spray - but if you leave
if long enough, it WILL 'go off'.
--
Ian

On 2 Feb 2013 16:59:21 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/02/2013 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me that
this could be a fine mist of water?

No, its a volatile solvent based stuff... It gasifies almost immediately.

Ethanol.

It appears that baking soda is also a decent accelerator.

I thought the OP wanted to slow down the setting, not accelerate it...
:-)


--
Frank Erskine

On 02/02/2013 18:03, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 02/02/13 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me
that
this could be a fine mist of water?

it can. a sweaty thmb on one bit works..

although you may find you can't get the sweaty thumb off the thing
after! ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

David.WE.Roberts wrote ...


I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.



Got a hot glue gun ?

On Sun, 3 Feb 2013 02:02:05 -0000, Kenny wrote:

David.WE.Roberts wrote ...


I have a brand new Seagate 3TB SATA 3 drive with the power connector
plastic bit snapped off.

Never had it happen before, I suspect a shoddy plastic moulding, but
difficult or impossible to prove that I didn't break it by trying to force
it.

No luck with RMA to eBuyer, and Seagate don't repair HDDs or sell the bits.

So it looks as though my best option may be to try and glue the plastic
back onto the metal.

Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting and if I don't get it absolutely right at the
first attempt then I could end up even worse off.

So is there something suitable for bonding hard plastic to metal (and a
very skinny bit of hard plastic) which allows you to slide the two bits
together, reposition to get them absolutely aligned, then hold together
for a bit whilst it sets?

Assuming I manage to repair it then I will probably use an all-in-one
connector for both power and data to give more rigidity.

The alternative is to glue a modular power cable to the drive as a
permanent fixture.



Got a hot glue gun ?

I keep mine between my angle-grinder and a tin of WD40.

"David.WE.Roberts" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 18:41:57 +0000, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artÃ*culo , David.WE.Roberts
escribió:

There is also the suggestion that the PCB is specifically tuned for the
individual drive.

I meant desoldering and swapping the connector, not swapping the PCB.

Yes, the days when you could recover data from a failed drive by
swapping the PCB from a known working one are long gone.

I think my glueing is better than my soldering.

Although I don't have any dead SATA drives - all my corpses are PATA.

Not hard to get a corpse off ebay for peanuts.

In message , John
Rumm writes
superglue sets when its deprived of air usually

how come it doesn't set in the tube then?

--
Simon

12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

In message , David.WE.Roberts
writes
Superglue has been suggested but (not that I've used it much) I think that
it is very quick acting

Relatively larger volumes of superglue take relatively longer to set,
(but present relatively greater chances of gluing fingers together -
experience!).

--
Simon

12) The Second Rule of Expectations
An EXPECTATION is a Premeditated resentment.

On 02/02/2013 22:16, Ian Jackson wrote:


Ordinary (non-gel) superglue is very good at creeping (usually into
somewhere you didn't really want it). It's often better to clamp/tape
the broken bits together first (but not excessively tightly), and apply
the superglue so that it creeps into the join. Then leave it strictly
alone. If necessary, apply a drop of water or spray - but if you leave
if long enough, it WILL 'go off'.


Most people try to apply the glue from the bottle which results in too
much being applied. For repairs such as this I put one drop on on some
plastic (food bag) and then use a sewing needle to apply a minute amount
only to the surface to be struck.


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On Sun, 03 Feb 2013 01:31:32 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 02/02/2013 18:03, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 02/02/13 16:52, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 16:45:51 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2013-02-02, John Rumm wrote:

Well its what I would go with... superglue sets when its deprived of
air usually.

Nope. Cyanoacrylate superglue is set by the moisture in the air.

I was just going to search for cyano accelerator - are you telling me
that
this could be a fine mist of water?

it can. a sweaty thmb on one bit works..

although you may find you can't get the sweaty thumb off the thing
after! ;-)

BTDTcan'tgetTTSon!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 03/02/2013 05:08, usenet2012 wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
superglue sets when its deprived of air usually

how come it doesn't set in the tube then?

My error, see my reply to Huge.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/