Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.

On Saturday, October 13, 2012 11:12:21 AM UTC+1, jim stone wrote:
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible

to complete kitchen drawer work.



Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant

difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.

I find general purpose pva is dry enough to hold itself in an hour, but not strongly. Wood type PVAs are much faster. Heat would dry it quicker, but I'm not sure how you'd get the heat into the joint. Often other fixings, even if weak, are adequate until the glue dries.


NT

jim stone wrote:
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.


it might.
But thats not a glue that dries that fast.

On balsa I would say it was handleable in less than an hour - had some
strength.


--
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lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
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rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

jim stone wrote:
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.


Get some titebond3. You can take the job out of clamps inside an hour to
set aside to dry fully and use your clamps again speeding up the work.
Bob

Bob Minchin wrote:
jim stone wrote:
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as
possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.


Get some titebond3. You can take the job out of clamps inside an hour to
set aside to dry fully and use your clamps again speeding up the work.
Bob
Everbuild D4 is also good from Toolstation - claims 10 minutes drying
time(?)

On Saturday, October 13, 2012 11:12:21 AM UTC+1, jim stone wrote:
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible

to complete kitchen drawer work.



Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant

difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.

I can't think why you'd need quick dry glue for kitchen drawers. Don't forget the old fashioned hot animal glue, that sets in seconds.


NT

Well it does but can warp the thing in my experience, it also seems to pong
a lot as well.


Not sure its going to be that strong either.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"jim stone" wrote in message
...
Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as
possible to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.

jim stone wrote:

Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

If I were trying to glue as quickly as possible I would use a
polyurethane glue, not PVA. Also has the advantage that PU does not wet
the wood, whereas PVA is water based. Gettign experienced using PU is a
bit of a challenge. First timers use too much and then it squirts out
everywhere like shaving foam. Experience teaches you how little is
needed.

Sold in various places, Screwfix own brand, Gorilla Glue, Ever Build,
D4, LumberJack all much the same. It has the advantage of being gap
filling and sets within 10 minutes.

Probably worth the trip out to Screwfix or Toolstation to buy some
rather than ****ing about with PVA if speed is of the essence.

On 13/10/2012 11:12, jim stone wrote:

Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

Would a good blast with a hair dryer or hot air gun make any significant
difference to the drying time which i understand is normally 24 hours.

Heat will help. Using a glue with good tacifiers in it like Titebond
will work better as well.

Depending on exactly what you are glueing, many kitchen fitters cheat
and use a medium viscosity CA glue and the accelerant spray. I find
using that I can assemble coves and mitres etc and make them handleable
inside a minute!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
jim stone wrote:

Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as
possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

If I were trying to glue as quickly as possible I would use a
polyurethane glue, not PVA. Also has the advantage that PU does not wet
the wood, whereas PVA is water based. Gettign experienced using PU is a
bit of a challenge. First timers use too much and then it squirts out
everywhere like shaving foam. Experience teaches you how little is
needed.

Sold in various places, Screwfix own brand, Gorilla Glue, Ever Build,
D4, LumberJack all much the same. It has the advantage of being gap
filling and sets within 10 minutes.

Probably worth the trip out to Screwfix or Toolstation to buy some
rather than ****ing about with PVA if speed is of the essence.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks. Spoke to technical advice telephone line at Bostic/Evostick (now
the same company) and asked them about stopping it drying up and they said
nothing could be done and knew nothing about putting in the fridge or
freezer.

I asked them that with the sealant-gun tubes of the adhesive, can anything
be done to stop it drying, and they said only put some cling film over the
end before screwing on the nozzle and also some cling film under the nozzle
screw tip.

Its strange they should mention cling film, since if you want to keep
air/gas in (or out in this case) plastic they insert metal molecules into
the plastic; which is why kid's helium balloon are silver and as are
'long-life' loaf bags in the supermarket. So silver bread bags would make
more sense than cling film? Would they not know this? I'm also wondering if
it best not to use the long nozzle at all on the gun tubes and just screw on
a small cap straight on to the tube...less convenient but also less volume
containing air ?

jim stone wrote:

I asked them that with the sealant-gun tubes of the adhesive, can anything
be done to stop it drying, and they said only put some cling film over the
end before screwing on the nozzle and also some cling film under the nozzle
screw tip.

I'm not sure what prompted this, but if you want to keep PU adhesive
after opening it, cling film as they say. The glue will form a plug in
the nozzle. Either use a new nozzle or dig out the plug before re-use.

But you don't have to use sealant gun type cartridges and Gorilla Glue
and the cheap Toolstation version of the same are sold in bottles that
have an air-tight cap. They will stay liquid much longer than the
sealant cartridges.

On Oct 18, 6:59*pm, "jim stone" wrote:
"Steve Firth" wrote in message

.. .





jim stone wrote:

Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as
possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

If I were trying to glue as quickly as possible I would use a
polyurethane glue, not PVA. Also has the advantage that PU does not wet
the wood, whereas PVA is water based. Gettign experienced using PU is a
bit of a challenge. First timers use too much and then it squirts out
everywhere like shaving foam. Experience teaches you how little is
needed.

Sold in various places, Screwfix own brand, Gorilla Glue, Ever Build,
D4, LumberJack all much the same. It has the advantage of being gap
filling and sets within 10 minutes.

Probably worth the trip out to Screwfix or Toolstation to buy some
rather than ****ing about with PVA if speed is of the essence.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------*------------------

Thanks. *Spoke to technical advice telephone line at Bostic/Evostick (now
the same company) and asked them about stopping it drying up and they said
nothing could be done and knew nothing about putting in the fridge or
freezer.

I asked them that with the sealant-gun tubes of the adhesive, can anything
be done to stop it drying, and they said only put some cling film over the
end before screwing on the nozzle and also some cling film under the nozzle
screw tip.

Its strange they should mention cling film, since if you want to keep
air/gas in (or out in this case) plastic they insert metal molecules into
the plastic; which is why kid's helium balloon are silver and as are
'long-life' loaf bags in the supermarket. *So silver bread bags would make
more sense than cling film? Would they not know this? I'm also wondering if
it best not to use the long nozzle at all on the gun tubes and just screw on
a small cap straight on to the tube...less convenient but also less volume
containing air ?

IME to keep moisture & gases etc reliably in/out of film based
containers you need a "layer" of (usually) Alu foil in the film's
construction.
This "real deal" (think astronaut food packs) is somewhat more
expensive & a little harder to work with due to its rigidity.

The shiny metallised foils you mention are no good long term but they
do look flash for the marketeers.

Kids helium balloons - the day/few days *after* the party - are
usually flacid & don't float only having air left in them as the
helium has escaped through the pores in the material.

Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
On Oct 18, 6:59 pm, "jim stone" wrote:
"Steve Firth" wrote in message

.. .





jim stone wrote:

Really urgently need some wood glued with PVA to dry as quickly as
possible
to complete kitchen drawer work.

If I were trying to glue as quickly as possible I would use a
polyurethane glue, not PVA. Also has the advantage that PU does not wet
the wood, whereas PVA is water based. Gettign experienced using PU is a
bit of a challenge. First timers use too much and then it squirts out
everywhere like shaving foam. Experience teaches you how little is
needed.

Sold in various places, Screwfix own brand, Gorilla Glue, Ever Build,
D4, LumberJack all much the same. It has the advantage of being gap
filling and sets within 10 minutes.

Probably worth the trip out to Screwfix or Toolstation to buy some
rather than ****ing about with PVA if speed is of the essence.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------*------------------

Thanks. Spoke to technical advice telephone line at Bostic/Evostick (now
the same company) and asked them about stopping it drying up and they said
nothing could be done and knew nothing about putting in the fridge or
freezer.

I asked them that with the sealant-gun tubes of the adhesive, can anything
be done to stop it drying, and they said only put some cling film over the
end before screwing on the nozzle and also some cling film under the
nozzle
screw tip.

Its strange they should mention cling film, since if you want to keep
air/gas in (or out in this case) plastic they insert metal molecules into
the plastic; which is why kid's helium balloon are silver and as are
'long-life' loaf bags in the supermarket. So silver bread bags would make
more sense than cling film? Would they not know this? I'm also wondering
if
it best not to use the long nozzle at all on the gun tubes and just screw
on
a small cap straight on to the tube...less convenient but also less volume
containing air ?

IME to keep moisture & gases etc reliably in/out of film based
containers you need a "layer" of (usually) Alu foil in the film's
construction.
This "real deal" (think astronaut food packs) is somewhat more
expensive & a little harder to work with due to its rigidity.

The shiny metallised foils you mention are no good long term but they
do look flash for the marketeers.

Kids helium balloons - the day/few days *after* the party - are
usually flacid & don't float only having air left in them as the
helium has escaped through the pores in the material.

Jim K

================================================== ==================================

So aluminium cooking foil might be the answer?