Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

cheers

Jules

"Jules Richardson" wrote in message ...


Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

cheers

Jules

Definitely cast imho

AWEM

On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:04:27 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:


Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

Definitely cast centre, but with four round holes, albeit in the wrong
orientation around the splined hole, can't you just use them to fix to a
bracket?

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.


--

On 02/10/2012 19:04, Jules Richardson wrote:

Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

There is no doubt that the centre is cast, but the outer gear ring may
be wrought iron heated and shrunk on, in the manner of a wagon wheel tyre.

Colin Bignell

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 7:04:27 PM UTC+1, Jules Richardson wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:



http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg



? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to

the hub section).



It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to

paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's

machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer

edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall

frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).



If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling

it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.



The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I

suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...



cheers



Jules

Surely it can be mounted without drilling. I also wouldn't put it above a door


NT

On 02/10/2012 19:23, The Other Mike wrote:
On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:04:27 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:
pose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

Definitely cast centre, but with four round holes, albeit in the wrong
orientation around the splined hole, can't you just use them to fix to a
bracket?

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.


Don't see the problem with that personally *as long as it is securely
mounted to something solid enough*.

Cast iron normally drills easily and safely, as long as you drill
somewhere sensible. Talking about good quality stuff like this of
course. Sash weights may be full of all sorts of slag, but they don't
need any real strength.

On Oct 2, 7:04*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

Jules Richardson wrote:

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...
Why don't you mount it on an axle?

Bill

On 02/10/2012 19:28, Nightjar wrote:

There is no doubt that the centre is cast, but the outer gear ring may
be wrought iron heated and shrunk on, in the manner of a wagon wheel tyre.

Good spot. hence the three pins around the rim, to be sure it doesn't
spin on the wheel.

Jules, why don't you stick an axle through the middle?

Andy

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 19:23:16 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Definitely cast centre, but with four round holes, albeit in the wrong
orientation around the splined hole, can't you just use them to fix to
a bracket?

Or just a couple of big wrought hooks to hang it on through the holes
between the spokes.

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary between
ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

Wonder where the rest of the machine is?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Oct 2, 7:04Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
Â*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

I was staring at it after posting (and after AWEM's quick reply came in
saying it was cast) and wondered about something like that, too -
although my thought was for a crossbar which sits in the slots that are
cut into the hub (and which originally allowed the gear to be clamped
onto the splined shaft). The crossbar would be welded to a bit of
threaded rod which then runs all the way through the wall (and through
the pipe/plate 'carrier' behind the gear which takes all the weight) and
is secured by a nut on the other side of the wall.

Having just measured it, the splined shaft would take a piece of pipe
1-15/16" OD, so I'll have a look around and see if anything "just
happens" to match that. The slots seem to be 1/8" and I know I have some
steel plate of that thickness which the crossbar could be fabricated
from. Carrier plate bolts maybe 1/2" in diameter?

The only downside is the need to run five bolts through the wall (four
for the carrier and then the threaded 't-piece'), where a drilled
solution could get away with two - but it's not really a big problem.
I've got open access to the other side of the wall, and can easily remove
the interior cladding boards so I can run frame members between the
building's existing verticals.

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Oct 2, 7:04Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
Â*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

I was staring at it after posting (and after AWEM's quick reply came in
saying it was cast) and wondered about something like that, too -
although my thought was for a crossbar which sits in the slots that are
cut into the hub (and which originally allowed the gear to be clamped
onto the splined shaft). The crossbar would be welded to a bit of
threaded rod which then runs all the way through the wall (and through
the pipe/plate 'carrier' behind the gear which takes all the weight) and
is secured by a nut on the other side of the wall.

Having just measured it, the splined shaft would take a piece of pipe
1-15/16" OD, so I'll have a look around and see if anything "just
happens" to match that. The slots seem to be 1/8" and I know I have some
steel plate of that thickness which the crossbar could be fabricated
from. Carrier plate bolts maybe 1/2" in diameter?

The only downside is the need to run five bolts through the wall (four
for the carrier and then the threaded 't-piece'), where a drilled
solution could get away with two - but it's not really a big problem.
I've got open access to the other side of the wall, and can easily remove
the interior cladding boards so I can run frame members between the
building's existing verticals.

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Oct 2, 7:04Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
Â*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

I was staring at it after posting (and after AWEM's quick reply came in
saying it was cast) and wondered about something like that, too -
although my thought was for a crossbar which sits in the slots that are
cut into the hub (and which originally allowed the gear to be clamped
onto the splined shaft). The crossbar would be welded to a bit of
threaded rod which then runs all the way through the wall (and through
the pipe/plate 'carrier' behind the gear which takes all the weight) and
is secured by a nut on the other side of the wall.

Having just measured it, the splined shaft would take a piece of pipe
1-15/16" OD, so I'll have a look around and see if anything "just
happens" to match that. The slots seem to be 1/8" and I know I have some
steel plate of that thickness which the crossbar could be fabricated
from. Carrier plate bolts maybe 1/2" in diameter?

The only downside is the need to run five bolts through the wall (four
for the carrier and then the threaded 't-piece'), where a drilled
solution could get away with two - but it's not really a big problem.
I've got open access to the other side of the wall, and can easily remove
the interior cladding boards so I can run frame members between the
building's existing verticals.

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Oct 2, 7:04Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
Â*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

I was staring at it after posting (and after AWEM's quick reply came in
saying it was cast) and wondered about something like that, too -
although my thought was for a crossbar which sits in the slots that are
cut into the hub (and which originally allowed the gear to be clamped
onto the splined shaft). The crossbar would be welded to a bit of
threaded rod which then runs all the way through the wall (and through
the pipe/plate 'carrier' behind the gear which takes all the weight) and
is secured by a nut on the other side of the wall.

Having just measured it, the splined shaft would take a piece of pipe
1-15/16" OD, so I'll have a look around and see if anything "just
happens" to match that. The slots seem to be 1/8" and I know I have some
steel plate of that thickness which the crossbar could be fabricated
from. Carrier plate bolts maybe 1/2" in diameter?

The only downside is the need to run five bolts through the wall (four
for the carrier and then the threaded 't-piece'), where a drilled
solution could get away with two - but it's not really a big problem.
I've got open access to the other side of the wall, and can easily remove
the interior cladding boards so I can run frame members between the
building's existing verticals.

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 20:38:53 +0000, Jules Richardson wrote:
On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:
I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed. Weld a crossbar and nut inside the
tube and then a bolt and washer holds the gear onto the shaft.

I was staring at it after posting (and after AWEM's quick reply came in
saying it was cast) and wondered about something like that, too

.... an idea obviously so good that my newsreader decided to post it four
times :-( (although it said that it hadn't posted at all, and then
promptly crashed, so I suppose four copies are better than no copies)

(fingers crossed this just posts the once!)

Jules Richardson submitted this idea :
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

It is cast apart from the outer ring, which appears to be staked with
three pins, to stop it turning on the centre casting. Cast drills
absolutely fine. The inner splines appear to be intended to be clamped
tight onto the male splines via two bolts.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 21:06:34 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 19:23:16 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Definitely cast centre, but with four round holes, albeit in the wrong
orientation around the splined hole, can't you just use them to fix to
a bracket?

Or just a couple of big wrought hooks to hang it on through the holes
between the spokes.

Yep

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary between
ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because ****
happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a door.


--

Jules Richardson wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

cheers

Jules

Cast, then machined. It might be forged, but I don't think so.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 23:12:52 +0100, The Other Mike
wrote:

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because ****
happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a door.

There is one consideration - with this, there will be no half-measures
when the fixings fail and the subsequent enquiry will exonerate Jules,
I'm sure.

On Oct 2, 7:04*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

cheers

Jules

It is a casting, looks like iron cast in sand.
You can drill it. How hard it is depends on whether it was"chilled".
(ie turned out of the mould when still hot). This makes the iron
harder.

Sometimes they are reheated to stress relieve them.
It has already been machined so probably quite soft.

Best done with a pillar drill it will be hard going with a pistol
drill.

On Oct 2, 11:05*pm, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
Jules Richardson submitted this idea :









Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:

*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

? (Obviously it's two separate pieces, with the toothed portion staked to
the hub section).

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop - if it's
machined then I should be able to drill through it close to the outer
edge on opposing sides and run a couple of long bolts through the wall
frame to support it (it's reasonably hefty, weighing a shade over 40lbs).

If it's cast though then I'm not sure if it won't crack if I try drilling
it, and I might not be better off making a bracket for it somehow.

The splined section's been repaired at some point in the past, but I
suppose there are people around who can reliably weld castings...

It is cast apart from the outer ring, which appears to be staked with
three pins, to stop it turning on the centre casting. Cast drills
absolutely fine. The inner splines appear to be intended to be clamped
tight onto the male splines via two bolts.

Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:04:27 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop

Obviously a job for "No more nails" or a dab of superglue :-)

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:04:27 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

It's about 16" in diameter; I found it in our woods and the plan was to
paint it and mount it above the door to the (timber) workshop

Obviously a job for "No more nails" or a dab of superglue :-)

Expanding foam is pretty sticky too... ;-)

Tim

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 23:12:52 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary
between ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because
**** happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a
door.

Not properly fixed... or just resting on the top of the frame. Even with
good sized hooks I'd proably still wire across the top of the hook.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 03/10/2012 09:14, harry wrote:
....

Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.


Splines can transmit more power.

Colin Bignell

On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 01:14:59 -0700, harry wrote:
Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

Well, think of it as having ten keyways, so much stronger than a single
key :-)

On 2012-10-02, The Other Mike wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 21:06:34 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 19:23:16 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary between
ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because ****
happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a door.


I have to ask: did it fall in the 'lucky' or 'unlucky' orientation?

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:33:17 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Oct 2, 7:04Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
Is this likely to be machined from a lump of steel, or is it cast:
Â*http://www.patooie.com/temp/gear.jpg

Cast centre, steel ring shrunk over it and a key to stop it rotating.

I'd mount it on a dummy shaft: probably steel pipe, welded to a steel
plate that I can bolt to the shed.

Hmm, well here's a weird one - I was looking through the pile of metal
scrap that's been slowly accumulating in one of the sheds, and happened
across this critter: http://www.patooie.com/temp/shaft.jpg

I think the splined section of the shaft (along which the dog clutch
slides) may well match the splines on the gear that I have exactly (the
splines certainly do in terms of width, depth and number - but I didn't
have calipers nearby so only approximated the OD with a ruler)

Of course I'm not sure if it helps me; it's probably more effort to use
that - assuming it's even possible given the corrosion - than making a
carrier "from scratch". I just found it interesting that I happened to
have something that might be an exact match in the junk pile. It's
entirely possible that the shaft and the gear came from the same piece of
equipment originally, which might explain the commonality (as a
manufacturer, using a few standard spline arrangements would make sense)

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 20:38:53 +0000, Jules Richardson wrote:
Having just measured it, the splined shaft would take a piece of pipe
1-15/16" OD, so I'll have a look around and see if anything "just
happens" to match that.

Well, other than the splined shaft that I found... I just went into town
to get some OSB (except that I didn't get any in the end because prices
seem to have gone up by 50% in recent weeks - wtf?) and so had a chance
to wander around looking for suitable parts.

1-1/2" galvanized pipe is very close in O.D (about 1/16" too small), the
nice thing there being that I could get a short section with threads at
the end, and a matching pipe flange (which has four mounting holes) into
which it will screw, and at least it should withstand the elements quite
well.

cheers

Jules

On Oct 3, 1:28*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 01:14:59 -0700, harry wrote:
Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

Well, think of it as having ten keyways, so much stronger than a single
key :-)

A single key would be stronger than those spokes.
Splines are usually for something that slides axially. Wonder what is
was for/came off.

On 03/10/2012 19:12, harry wrote:
On Oct 3, 1:28 pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 01:14:59 -0700, harry wrote:
Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

Well, think of it as having ten keyways, so much stronger than a single
key :-)

A single key would be stronger than those spokes.

One is stronger than ten?

Splines are usually for something that slides axially.

I wouldn't want a lot of axial movement in a set of wire wheels on a
car, except for when they need to come off.

Colin Bignell

On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 11:12:54 -0700, harry wrote:

On Oct 3, 1:28Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 01:14:59 -0700, harry wrote:
Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

Well, think of it as having ten keyways, so much stronger than a single
key :-)

A single key would be stronger than those spokes.

I'm not buying that - there must be a limit to how wide a key can be, due
to the diameter and curvature of the shaft; splines can get around that...

Wonder what is was for/came off.

Dunno. Our place used to be a farm, so doubtless part of some implement
or other. The design to me has a feel of something from the 1940's or
earlier; even post-war farm equipment seems a little more refined :-)

The guy who has a cabin behind our land is the son of the couple who used
to farm our place, so there's a chance that he might know - but he's just
here during the summer months and I think he may have buggered off for
the cold season[1] now, so I'd have to wait until spring to ask.

[1] And we're supposed to get a couple of inches of snow tomorrow now,
which might mean that painting this thing and putting it up on the wall
will have to wait until next year.

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 13:53:53 +0100, Adam Funk wrote:

On 2012-10-02, The Other Mike wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 21:06:34 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 19:23:16 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary between
ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because ****
happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a door.


I have to ask: did it fall in the 'lucky' or 'unlucky' orientation?

It was in the lucky orientation on the wall and had been for decades, Maybe at a
9 o'clock position when it hit me - it drew blood.

--

On Oct 3, 8:44*pm, Nightjar wrote:
On 03/10/2012 19:12, harry wrote:

On Oct 3, 1:28 pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 01:14:59 -0700, harry wrote:
Surprising that it's splined rather than a keyway.

Well, think of it as having ten keyways, so much stronger than a single
key :-)

A single key would be stronger than those spokes.

One is stronger than ten?

The key is in shear, the spokes are subject to bending moment.

Splines are usually for something that slides axially.

I wouldn't want a lot of axial movement in a set of wire wheels on a
car, except for when they need to come off.

That's axial movement then.

On 2012-10-03, The Other Mike wrote:

On Wed, 03 Oct 2012 13:53:53 +0100, Adam Funk wrote:

On 2012-10-02, The Other Mike wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 21:06:34 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 19:23:16 +0100, The Other Mike wrote:

Mounting over a door doesn't seem like a really good idea though.

Meh, provided the support is strong enough what's the problem? With my
hooks they'd be quite deep, tips cominmg up to about the boundary between
ring gear and wheel, so highly unlikely to "bounce" off.

The reason I think that about mounting it over a door is just because ****
happens - I once had a 'lucky' horse shoe drop on me from over a door.


I have to ask: did it fall in the 'lucky' or 'unlucky' orientation?

It was in the lucky orientation on the wall and had been for decades, Maybe at a
9 o'clock position when it hit me - it drew blood.

Ouch! Sorry, I had to ask.