My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

The local authority relaid all the pavement with tarmac last year, but
unfortunately the gaffer of the gang was immune to my suggestion they
could relay the drive for a few drinks (However, to be fair, they did
replace the edging stones.)

On Aug 31, 10:16*am, Jethro_uk wrote:
There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

Yes. Annually, when you see them re-appearing.

Otherwise Roundup, but that's likely to need three applications a
year.

I'd use sodium chlorate, then Roundup the stragglers as I saw them.

On 31/08/2012 10:38, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:16 am, Jethro_uk wrote:
There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

Yes. Annually, when you see them re-appearing.

Otherwise Roundup, but that's likely to need three applications a
year.

I'd use sodium chlorate, then Roundup the stragglers as I saw them.

Unless you have already bought it you will struggle to find sodium
chlorate now as it was delisted as a weedkiller a couple of years back.

http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question...6072337AAWmsUe

Same for Simazine persistent weedkiller at least for the home user.

See also
http://www.rhs.org.uk/Gardening/Advi...ides/Chemicals

BTW apologies for sending a private email version - Thunderbird has
upgraded itself and moved around the reply/followup buttons today.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012, "Terry Fields" writ:


Jethro_uk wrote:

My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

I'm fairly sure that it's now illegal to own and use sodium chlorate.

How I miss it and the wonderful bombs I made as a teenager in the 60s.

Electrically detonated at the local gravel pit and hours of harmless
fun.

Perhaps that would have read "armless fun" if one of the buggers had
gone off prematurely!
--
P

In many ways, the fact that weeds are already through means its too late
and the surface is broken up. You will soon start to see what I call the
marbles on the floor effect where you take a step and all the round bits of
the broken tarmac mysteriously transport your feet so that your bum is on
the ground!

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Aug 31, 10:16 am, Jethro_uk wrote:
There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

Yes. Annually, when you see them re-appearing.

Otherwise Roundup, but that's likely to need three applications a
year.

I'd use sodium chlorate, then Roundup the stragglers as I saw them.

Yes, but people still do and use it. What is the problem, is it the old
explosive problem?

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"Huge" wrote in message
...
On 2012-08-31, Terry Fields wrote:

Jethro_uk wrote:

My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

I'm fairly sure that it's now illegal to own and use sodium chlorate.

It is.

--
Today is Pungenday, the 24th day of Bureaucracy in the YOLD 3178
"If there is anyone here who I have not insulted, I beg their
pardon." Johannes Brahms (1833-97).

In article ,
Terry Fields writes:

Jethro_uk wrote:

My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

I'm fairly sure that it's now illegal to own and use sodium chlorate.

Try Roundup or the cheaper glyphosate but be prepared to use several
treatments over a period of time.

Use a path weedkiller, which is a mixture of glyphosate to kill
what's growing now (but no long lasting protection in the ground),
and a germination inhibitor to prevent new seeds germinating.
Once you've sprayed what's there, leave it to die without
interfering with it, as that will give it time to draw the
glyphosate into the roots and kill them.

Pick a time when there's going to be at least one day of sun and
warm(ish) weather. Spray generously. Wait at least six weeks for the
weeds to die, repeat if necessary after that time. Next year zap the
weeds as they appear, gradually they'll get less frequent.

For tough perennials, glyphosate works best near the end of the
growing season, when the plants draw nutrients (and the glypohsate)
back into their roots over winter, and the glyphosate gets a long
time to act on them during a period when they are unable to do
anything to resist.

There are some weeds which glyphosate doesn't work well on because
it can't get into the sap, either because it kills the leaves on
contact, or because the plant doesn't absorb it well enough. In
the latter case (e.g. Mares Tail), you will have more success if
you "bruise" the foliage by lightly walking on it immediately
after application. (Don't walk across your lawn afterwards!)
Mares Tail can take a few years of repeated treatments to
eradicate, and in spite of being a very "weedy" weed, has no
problem breaking through tarmac and the resin-based equivalents.
Again, treatment at the end of the growing season is the most
effective, as it continues acting in the roots all winter.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Jethro_uk" wrote in message
...
My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

The local authority relaid all the pavement with tarmac last year, but
unfortunately the gaffer of the gang was immune to my suggestion they
could relay the drive for a few drinks (However, to be fair, they did
replace the edging stones.)

Out of interest, has anyone tried that SBK stuff? Probably not strictly
necessary in this case, but does it really kill off tree stumps and such?

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:28:53 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Use a path weedkiller, which is a mixture of glyphosate to kill
what's growing now (but no long lasting protection in the ground),
and a germination inhibitor to prevent new seeds germinating.

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather than
a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a path weed
killer. Will take a few applications but these days persistent weed
killers aren't very common.

... you will have more success if you "bruise" the foliage by lightly
walking on it immediately after application. (Don't walk across your
lawn afterwards!)

Well do things the other way round, bruise then spray. B-)

Of course as some one else hinted at, where the weeds have broken through
the tarmac the frost will get in and break it up...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 31/08/2012 10:16, Jethro_uk wrote:
My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

The local authority relaid all the pavement with tarmac last year, but
unfortunately the gaffer of the gang was immune to my suggestion they
could relay the drive for a few drinks (However, to be fair, they did
replace the edging stones.)


You need a systemic weed killer that will kill the weed down to the
roots. Look for one that contains glyphosate as the active ingredient.

--
Peter Crosland

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather than
a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a path weed
killer.

Recommended sources?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

Chris J Dixon wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather than
a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a path weed
killer.

Recommended sources?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=clinic+ace

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 15:01:01 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather
than a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a
path weed killer.

Recommended sources?

Any agri merchant rather than garden centre shed.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:28:53 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Use a path weedkiller, which is a mixture of glyphosate to kill
what's growing now (but no long lasting protection in the ground),
and a germination inhibitor to prevent new seeds germinating.

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather than
a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a path weed
killer.

Strange comment, since glyphosate won't stop weeds coming through
the drive, it will only kill the ones which already have.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 31/08/2012 14:21, Dave Liquorice wrote: On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:28:53
+0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Use a path weedkiller, which is a mixture of glyphosate to kill
what's growing now (but no long lasting protection in the ground),
and a germination inhibitor to prevent new seeds germinating.

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather than
a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a path weed
killer. Will take a few applications but these days persistent weed
killers aren't very common.

Generic shed glyphosate is fine (choose the one with maximum active
ingredient per unit price), but for optimum results on a path it is
better to use a "path weed killer" at the *start* of the season so that
the germination inhibitor stops new weeds from growing. Unfortunately
the most potent of these was delisted for home use a while back.

Even so a germination inhibitor in path weedkiller is useful but
pointless at this time of year since winter rains will wash it away (and
this year summer rains did that!).

... you will have more success if you "bruise" the foliage by lightly
walking on it immediately after application. (Don't walk across your
lawn afterwards!)

Well do things the other way round, bruise then spray. B-)

And beware of overspray on boots it is easy to leave outlines of dead
grass if you later walk across a lawn. Grass is exquisitely sensitive to
glyphosate but it takes a week or more to show.

Most path weedkillers these days have a quick kill component as well.
They are not brilliant but still better than just glyphosate on its own.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

gogmagog wrote:

Out of interest, has anyone tried that SBK stuff? Probably not
strictly necessary in this case, but does it really kill off tree
stumps and such?
Used it loads of times, mostly on thistles, nettles and brambles which other
weedkillers find difficult.
Mixed results TBH, it seems the woodier the stem, the more likely that
chemicals will struggle.
For tree stumps, IE just wood, you'd be better mixing it with used engine
oil and painting it on...for brambles mix with the same but thin it down
with turps or any thin solvent and spray it on - the longer it stays in
contact with the greenery the more effective it is.
For ivy, mix it with a bucket of solvite (yes wallpaer paste) and apply it
with your hands (covered in washing up gloves) running them over the
underside of the leaves in an upwards motion, this way the leaves stay on
and absorb the chemical - if you run them down you'll rip the leaves off and
the stalks can't absorb anything

Jethro_uk wrote:
My pikey-done tarmac drive to the garage (not used for car storage) is
breaking out in weeds (the tarmac is only tissue-thin).

There's no lawn to either side of the area. Can anyone suggest something
to kill the weeds off for a very long time ? Sodium Chlorate ?

Simazine or Atrazine granules if you can find them but now banned by the
bloody silly EU.

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 15:37:44 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 15:01:01 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Think I'd rather use cheaper a concentrated genric glyphosate rather
than a watered down expensive branded glyphosate like Roundup or a
path weed killer.

Recommended sources?

Any agri merchant rather than garden centre shed.

Yep. A third of the price for off-patent stuff.

"Phil L" wrote in message
...
gogmagog wrote:

Out of interest, has anyone tried that SBK stuff? Probably not
strictly necessary in this case, but does it really kill off tree
stumps and such?
Used it loads of times, mostly on thistles, nettles and brambles which
other weedkillers find difficult.
Mixed results TBH, it seems the woodier the stem, the more likely that
chemicals will struggle.
For tree stumps, IE just wood, you'd be better mixing it with used engine
oil and painting it on...for brambles mix with the same but thin it down
with turps or any thin solvent and spray it on - the longer it stays in
contact with the greenery the more effective it is.
For ivy, mix it with a bucket of solvite (yes wallpaer paste) and apply it
with your hands (covered in washing up gloves) running them over the
underside of the leaves in an upwards motion, this way the leaves stay on
and absorb the chemical - if you run them down you'll rip the leaves off
and the stalks can't absorb anything

Excellent tips, thank you.

In message , Percy
writes

How I miss it and the wonderful bombs I made as a teenager in the 60s.

Electrically detonated at the local gravel pit and hours of harmless
fun.

You *were* sophisticated. We filled drinking straws with the mixture,
lit it and ran.

Perhaps that would have read "armless fun" if one of the buggers had
gone off prematurely!

Indeed :-(
--
Graeme

On Wed, 5 Sep 2012, "News" writ:

In message , Percy
writes

How I miss it and the wonderful bombs I made as a teenager in the 60s.

Electrically detonated at the local gravel pit and hours of harmless
fun.

You *were* sophisticated. We filled drinking straws with the mixture,
lit it and ran.

I suppose we were. Jetex fuse was the alternative. We used to unsolder
the end of a glass cartridge fuse, fill it with the mixture and
re-solder the end cap with bell wire attached. A small motorcycle
battery was all that was needed to set it off.

The mixture was either sugar/sodium chlorate or, when we could get it,
aluminium powder/sodium chlorate.

--
P

Percy wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012, "News" writ:

In message , Percy writes

How I miss it and the wonderful bombs I made as a teenager in the 60s.

Electrically detonated at the local gravel pit and hours of harmless fun.

You *were* sophisticated. We filled drinking straws with the mixture, lit it and ran.

I suppose we were. Jetex fuse was the alternative. We used to unsolder
the end of a glass cartridge fuse, fill it with the mixture and re-solder
the end cap with bell wire attached. A small motorcycle battery was all
that was needed to set it off.

The mixture was either sugar/sodium chlorate or, when we could get it,
aluminium powder/sodium chlorate.

Hmm I used to make electrical detonators from bangers. Take cycle brake
cable and cut a six inch length. Unwind a single steel wire from the cable
and straighten by gripping each end if the wire with pliers and pulling
until it work hardens. It is now straight and ideal for poking right
through a banger from touch paper and out through the base. Tape bell wire
to each end, connect across car battery for a bang. Use as the detonator
for your own ANFO or chlorite devices. Allegedly.