What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.


NT

NT wrote:
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.


NT
Toolstation D4 item no 61864 5.98/ltr is very good however avoid their
Bondloc D3 adhesive as it has a very low initial tack and takes ages to
dry sufficiently to take clamps off and progress the job.

The D4 is waterproof but I prefer to use a PU for work that will remain
out in all weathers.
Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.

Bob

On 27/04/2012 14:00, Bob Minchin wrote:

Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.


Are you sure of that? I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue - that I have
always assumed to be PU - that I bought last summer and used a couple of
weeks ago with no problems.

Andrew May wrote:
On 27/04/2012 14:00, Bob Minchin wrote:

Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.


Are you sure of that? I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue - that I have
always assumed to be PU - that I bought last summer and used a couple of
weeks ago with no problems.


If it is the brown foaming stuff, then I have found that even the small
amount of water vapour left in the bottle will turn it solid. I've not
used the gorilla brand however so maybe that is different?

Bob

On 27/04/2012 16:22, Andrew May wrote:
On 27/04/2012 14:00, Bob Minchin wrote:

Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.


Are you sure of that? I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue - that I have
always assumed to be PU - that I bought last summer and used a couple of
weeks ago with no problems.

PU certainly has a limited shelf life IME, although I have usually found
it better than "a few weeks". It will depend on many things though like
storage conditions, and the amount of ambient moisture that can get into
the bottle once its been opened.


--
Cheers,

John.

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Andrew May wrote:

On 27/04/2012 14:00, Bob Minchin wrote:

Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.


Are you sure of that? I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue - that I have
always assumed to be PU - that I bought last summer and used a couple of
weeks ago with no problems.

I got a cheap deal on a batch of PU (which I believe Gorilla Glue is)
because it was close to its use by date.

I used some well after the date and it did not seem impaired. I suspect a
lot has to do with storage and the dates are probably based on storage at
the highest expected temperatures (say 25C plus in a southern european
country) so if stored at 20C or less, in the UK, you've probably got longer.

Alos, like medicines, it does not immediately drop dead 1 second after the
date, but becomes less effective as time progresses.
--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote:

Andrew May wrote:

On 27/04/2012 14:00, Bob Minchin wrote:

Toolstation PU 93568/52489 (5 minute/30 minute) is £9.96 for 750grams.
even with care it will be useless within a few weeks so unless you have
a big job to do, most PU glues work out very expensive.


Are you sure of that? I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue - that I have
always assumed to be PU - that I bought last summer and used a couple of
weeks ago with no problems.

I got a cheap deal on a batch of PU (which I believe Gorilla Glue is)
because it was close to its use by date.

I used some well after the date and it did not seem impaired. I suspect a
lot has to do with storage and the dates are probably based on storage at
the highest expected temperatures (say 25C plus in a southern european
country) so if stored at 20C or less, in the UK, you've probably got
longer.

And assuming it is stored dry rather than in damp/humid conditions...


Alos, like medicines, it does not immediately drop dead 1 second after the
date, but becomes less effective as time progresses.


--
Tim Watts

On Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:04:27 +0100, Tim Watts
wrote:


I used some well after the date and it did not seem impaired. I suspect a
lot has to do with storage and the dates are probably based on storage at
the highest expected temperatures (say 25C plus in a southern european
country) so if stored at 20C or less, in the UK, you've probably got longer.

I've had some stored in the fridge and it is fine two years after
first opening. However, it is important to store it upside down
(nozzle down). Easiest way is to store the bottle nozzle down in an
old tumbler. That way any hard film which does form is away from the
nozzle.

NT wrote:
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

white carpenters glue like evostik


NT


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
NT wrote:
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

white carpenters glue like evostik

What do non white carpenters glue like?

On 27/04/2012 13:46, NT wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm

A PVA of some sort...

If you are not worried about setting time, then bulk containers of PVA
as sold for cement admix and general PVAing tasks will be adequate. FOr
posher carpentry I usually use one of the yellow alphatic glues with
tackifierers like TiteBond.

If its not going outside, then a non waterproof PVA will be sightly
easier to cleanup which may matter if finishing with polish etc that is
going to leave the wood visible.

looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

In what way, and what did you buy?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Apr 27, 4:31*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 27/04/2012 13:46, NT wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm

A PVA of some sort...

If you are not worried about setting time, then bulk containers of PVA
as sold for cement admix and general PVAing tasks will be adequate. FOr

Thats what I thought. Last time I bought pva I saw a very cheap deal
on a gallon of pva at SF and figured it said 48% pva, so it should be
ok, and bravely tried it. I dont normally touch their No Nonsense
brand, but did and the result is fairly poor.


posher carpentry I usually use one of the yellow alphatic glues with
tackifierers like TiteBond.

If its not going outside, then a non waterproof PVA will be sightly
easier to cleanup which may matter if finishing with polish etc that is
going to leave the wood visible.

looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

In what way, and what did you buy?

It just doesnt have the strength it should. 1x1 Joints can be broken
apart by hand, its a lot weaker than the wood. I've been using it
without dilution, and clamping smooth flat joints, albeit not very
hard.

That begs the question what brands of general purpose gallon pva have
been found to be fine?


NT

On 27/04/2012 18:33, NT wrote:
On Apr 27, 4:31 pm, John wrote:
On 27/04/2012 13:46, NT wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm

A PVA of some sort...

If you are not worried about setting time, then bulk containers of PVA
as sold for cement admix and general PVAing tasks will be adequate. FOr

Thats what I thought. Last time I bought pva I saw a very cheap deal
on a gallon of pva at SF and figured it said 48% pva, so it should be
ok, and bravely tried it. I dont normally touch their No Nonsense
brand, but did and the result is fairly poor.


posher carpentry I usually use one of the yellow alphatic glues with
tackifierers like TiteBond.

If its not going outside, then a non waterproof PVA will be sightly
easier to cleanup which may matter if finishing with polish etc that is
going to leave the wood visible.

looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

In what way, and what did you buy?

It just doesnt have the strength it should. 1x1 Joints can be broken
apart by hand, its a lot weaker than the wood. I've been using it
without dilution, and clamping smooth flat joints, albeit not very
hard.

Seems odd... I have not really had a PVA that has not been able to make
a reasonably decent joint if given enough time. What sort of wood? was
it particularly waxy?

That begs the question what brands of general purpose gallon pva have
been found to be fine?

I have used the TS D3 stuff - IIRC the bond strength was ok, but it
takes a while to set.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:33:19 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

That begs the question what brands of general purpose gallon pva have
been found to be fine?

I've been using Durabond for the past decade and not had any
complaints.

So it was more wouldn't glue then? grin

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"NT" wrote in message
...
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.


NT

On Apr 27, 1:46*pm, NT wrote:
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

NT

PVA. ("White glue")

"NT" wrote in message
...
What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

May not be the cheapest but I've always got great results with Cascamite

On Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:46:12 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.


What are you actually going to use it for? What do you mean by general
carpentry? Inside or outside? Will the joint be under tension?
Compression?

I use ordinary white PVA for general stuff like making jigs and
patterns but that stuff creeps under tension so for joints that matter
I'll use Titebond Original.

I also use hot hide glue. It's self-clamping (ie it pulls itself
together as it sets) can be mixed thick or thin according to use and
can be undone again at a future date if you think that might be
necessary.

I used to use Cascamite as mentioned elsewhere and it's brilliant in
the right circumstances though it's a bit too brittle for most of my
needs and I'd describe it as rather unforgiving if things aren't going
the way that you want them to.

Nick

On Apr 28, 1:34*pm, Nick Odell
wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:46:12 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry? I'm
looking for the cheapest that will do a sound job, and what I last
bought is inadequte.

What are you actually going to use it for? What do you mean by general
carpentry? Inside or outside? Will the joint be under tension?
Compression?

indoor use, and a wide range of things. I don't rely on general
purpose glue for safety critical joints.

I use ordinary white PVA for general stuff like making jigs and
patterns but that stuff creeps under tension so for joints that matter
I'll use Titebond Original.

creeps after setting you mean?

I also use hot hide glue. It's self-clamping (ie it pulls itself
together as it sets) can be mixed thick or thin according to use and
can be undone again at a future date if you think that might be
necessary.

I used to use Cascamite as mentioned elsewhere and it's brilliant in
the right circumstances though it's a bit too brittle for most of my
needs and I'd describe it as rather unforgiving if things aren't going
the way that you want them to.

Nick

cheers,
NT

On Sat, 28 Apr 2012 07:35:30 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:
..

I use ordinary white PVA for general stuff like making jigs and
patterns but that stuff creeps under tension so for joints that matter
I'll use Titebond Original.

creeps after setting you mean?

(sorry for the delay in coming back) Yes, I mean that it creeps after
setting. Imagine a classical guitar with the bridge glued on with
ordinary PVA. There's a constant tension from the pull of the strings
and over time you can be almost certain that it will pull itself
apart. Imagine anything else that's going to exist under tension and
consider that it might happen there too. Titebond Original shouldn't
do that; hot hide glue definitely won't do that.

Nick

On May 5, 12:15*am, Nick Odell
wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2012 07:35:30 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:
.



I use ordinary white PVA for general stuff like making jigs and
patterns but that stuff creeps under tension so for joints that matter
I'll use Titebond Original.

creeps after setting you mean?

(sorry for the delay in coming back) Yes, I mean that it creeps after
setting. Imagine a classical guitar with the bridge glued on with
ordinary PVA. There's a constant tension from the pull of the strings
and over time you can be almost certain that it will pull itself
apart. Imagine anything else that's going to exist under tension and
consider that it might happen there too. Titebond Original shouldn't
do that; hot hide glue definitely won't do that.

Nick

k, thank you


NT

On Saturday, April 28, 2012 1:34:52 PM UTC+1, Nick Odell wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:46:12 -0700 (PDT), NT
wrote:

What do people recommend as wood glue for general carpentry?
I use ordinary white PVA for general stuff like making jigs and
patterns but that stuff creeps under tension so for joints that matter
I'll use Titebond Original.

Which is ordinary PVA, albeit a reputable brand of same.

For general carpentry, I would either use PVA (as an inveterate over-speccer I only use a cross-linker) or more often polyurethane.

I also use hot hide glue. It's self-clamping (ie it pulls itself
together as it sets) can be mixed thick or thin according to use and
can be undone again at a future date if you think that might be
necessary.

That's not really a general carpentry glue, more a cabinet-making thing for the restorer/enthusiastic historicist.

I used to use Cascamite as mentioned elsewhere and it's brilliant in
the right circumstances though it's a bit too brittle for most of my
needs and I'd describe it as rather unforgiving if things aren't going
the way that you want them to.

It's a good structural glue. It does sometimes turn suddenly, especially if not mixed very very precisely (sensitive scales are best), and even then if a bit old.

That's not really a general carpentry glue, more a cabinet-making thing for the restorer/enthusiastic historicist.


Somewhere I read the article that this link refers to.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Mater....aspx?id=28897

Interestingly PU glues came out of this testing very poorly.

Rob

In message
,
robgraham writes


That's not really a general carpentry glue, more a cabinet-making
thing for the restorer/enthusiastic historicist.


Somewhere I read the article that this link refers to.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Mater....aspx?id=28897

Interestingly PU glues came out of this testing very poorly.

What happened to the *aircraft* glues developed during WWII?

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
robgraham writes


That's not really a general carpentry glue, more a cabinet-making
thing for the restorer/enthusiastic historicist.


Somewhere I read the article that this link refers to.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Mater....aspx?id=28897

Interestingly PU glues came out of this testing very poorly.

What happened to the *aircraft* glues developed during WWII?


Aerolite 306 and cascamite?

Very good BUT they are fiddly and need clamping.

Polyurethane is GOOD ENOUGH as a low strength gap filler, but PVA is
better but not weatherproof.

If you want top class use heated epoxies or polyester resins

regards



--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.