I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump. These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They have
fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate types
(any comments?). This will, of course, require the system to the partially
drained - so I need to wait for a convenient time - and need a short-term
solution.

In a recent post concerning a leaking joint on a radiator valve, someone
suggested using a silicon sealant. However, all the tubes of sealant which I
have got state that the surfaces must be clean and *dry*. There's no way I
can make my surfaces dry - until I fix the leak!

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can put on a damp surface,
which will still seal?

TIA,
Roger

Try Plumbers Mait. It's made by Evo-Stik
Pop it round the joint and it should keep the drip at bay until you can fix
it properly.


"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump. These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the
shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They
have
fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but
there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate types
(any comments?). This will, of course, require the system to the partially
drained - so I need to wait for a convenient time - and need a short-term
solution.

In a recent post concerning a leaking joint on a radiator valve, someone
suggested using a silicon sealant. However, all the tubes of sealant which
I
have got state that the surfaces must be clean and *dry*. There's no way I
can make my surfaces dry - until I fix the leak!

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can put on a damp surface,
which will still seal?

TIA,
Roger

Roger Mills wrote:
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump.
These have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland
round the shaft, but from the point where the gate mechanism screws
into the body. They have fibre washers which seem to have perished.
Tightening helps a bit but there is still a slight drip . . drip.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate
types (any comments?). This will, of course, require the system to
the partially drained - so I need to wait for a convenient time - and
need a short-term solution.

In a recent post concerning a leaking joint on a radiator valve,
someone suggested using a silicon sealant. However, all the tubes of
sealant which I have got state that the surfaces must be clean and
*dry*. There's no way I can make my surfaces dry - until I fix the
leak!

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can put on a damp
surface, which will still seal?

TIA,
Roger

Those small tubes of Fernox leak sealant might do it. It worked for me with
a leak on the outlet boss of a very large roof tank, still ok after 4 years.

"Roger Mills" wrote in message ...
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump. These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They have
fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate types
(any comments?). This will, of course, require the system to the partially
drained - so I need to wait for a convenient time - and need a short-term
solution.

In a recent post concerning a leaking joint on a radiator valve, someone
suggested using a silicon sealant. However, all the tubes of sealant which I
have got state that the surfaces must be clean and *dry*. There's no way I
can make my surfaces dry - until I fix the leak!

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can put on a damp surface,
which will still seal?

TIA,
Roger

Roger,

I had the integral 1/4 turn ball type pump valves to convert from 22mm
pipe to the pump flange. The first and only time they were used in
anger they promptly started leaking from around the ball handle. I
changed to the gate valve type of pump connectors.

My feeling is that these combination flange adaptors/valve are poor
quality and suffer from infrequent use. My preference would be a high
quality full bore ball valve (1/4 turn) and a separate adaptor flange.

ian

In article ,
"Roger Mills" writes:
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump. These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They have

Snap!

fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I couldn't find any fibre washers of the right size. I temporarily used
an O-ring, until I could do a proper repair.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate types
(any comments?).

Yes, they are a different length, so you'll need to modify the pipework.
I just replaced mine with identical gate valves.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Ian" wrote in message
m...
"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump.
These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the
shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They
have
fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but
there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate
types
(any comments?). This will, of course, require the system to the
partially
drained - so I need to wait for a convenient time - and need a
short-term
solution.

In a recent post concerning a leaking joint on a radiator valve, someone
suggested using a silicon sealant. However, all the tubes of sealant
which I
have got state that the surfaces must be clean and *dry*. There's no way
I
can make my surfaces dry - until I fix the leak!

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can put on a damp
surface,
which will still seal?

TIA,
Roger

Roger,

I had the integral 1/4 turn ball type pump valves to convert from 22mm
pipe to the pump flange. The first and only time they were used in
anger they promptly started leaking from around the ball handle. I
changed to the gate valve type of pump connectors.

My feeling is that these combination flange adaptors/valve are poor
quality and suffer from infrequent use. My preference would be a high
quality full bore ball valve (1/4 turn) and a separate adaptor flange.

ian

Thanks for that comment. Unfortunately, I don't have room to install
separate flanges and ball valves - it has to be the integral type. Maybe I
would be safer sticking with the gate-valve type.

Roger

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Roger Mills" writes:
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating pump.
These
have recently started leaking slightly - not from the gland round the
shaft,
but from the point where the gate mechanism screws into the body. They
have

Snap!

fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit but
there
is still a slight drip . . drip.

I couldn't find any fibre washers of the right size. I temporarily used
an O-ring, until I could do a proper repair.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than gate
types
(any comments?).

Yes, they are a different length, so you'll need to modify the pipework.
I just replaced mine with identical gate valves.

--
Andrew Gabriel

I presume that the ball type are shorter - so I'd have to lengthen one the
pipes, which wouldn't be a problem. Someone has suggested that the ball type
is more leak prone than the gate type. Does anyone else have a view on this?

Does anyone know whether or not the integral ball type are full bore?

Roger

On Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:36:37 -0000, "Roger Mills"
wrote:


"Ian" wrote in message
om...

snip

Roger,

I had the integral 1/4 turn ball type pump valves to convert from 22mm
pipe to the pump flange. The first and only time they were used in
anger they promptly started leaking from around the ball handle. I
changed to the gate valve type of pump connectors.

My feeling is that these combination flange adaptors/valve are poor
quality and suffer from infrequent use. My preference would be a high
quality full bore ball valve (1/4 turn) and a separate adaptor flange.

ian

Thanks for that comment. Unfortunately, I don't have room to install
separate flanges and ball valves - it has to be the integral type. Maybe I
would be safer sticking with the gate-valve type.

Roger


Roger, I've implemented what Ian describes and it is a better
solution than any of the gate valve options.

If you are stuck for space, an alternative is to put flanges at the
pump and then a drain cock on the appropriate (lower) side of the
pump. Then put the lever ball valves some distance away with a
manual air vent if needed on the pump side.
Now you can close both valves, open the vent, open the drain and empty
the entire section of pipe and pump. OK, so there is a little more
loss of water from the system but not a substantial amount.



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:42:00 -0000, "Roger Mills"
wrote:



I presume that the ball type are shorter - so I'd have to lengthen one the
pipes, which wouldn't be a problem. Someone has suggested that the ball type
is more leak prone than the gate type. Does anyone else have a view on this?

Does anyone know whether or not the integral ball type are full bore?

Roger



I wouldn't use the integral types at all. The separate lever ball
valves are not prone to leaking or sticking at all, IME.

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Roger Mills wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Roger Mills" writes:
I have gate-type isolator valves either side of my circulating
pump. These have recently started leaking slightly - not from the
gland round the shaft, but from the point where the gate mechanism
screws into the body. They have

Snap!

fibre washers which seem to have perished. Tightening helps a bit
but there is still a slight drip . . drip.

I couldn't find any fibre washers of the right size. I temporarily
used an O-ring, until I could do a proper repair.

I intend to replace the valves - probably with ball rather than
gate types (any comments?).

Yes, they are a different length, so you'll need to modify the
pipework. I just replaced mine with identical gate valves.

--
Andrew Gabriel

I presume that the ball type are shorter - so I'd have to lengthen
one the pipes, which wouldn't be a problem. Someone has suggested
that the ball type is more leak prone than the gate type. Does anyone
else have a view on this?

Two of my close relatives have gate valves on their pumps and I have ball
type.
None of us have ever had a problem...
Never leave a gate valve for a long time in the fully wide open postition or
they seem to stick wherever they are fitted; always back off from fully hard
open say a 1/4 turn.