Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml
of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Thanks
Adam

P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control
got the same overhaul...

On Apr 14, 11:55 am, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml
of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Thanks
Adam

P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control
got the same overhaul...

have to say my first quick look reminded me of the absolute sh1te that
is the BnQ website - I put "glue" in the search engine and have been
rewarded with 454 hits inculding er... caulk, self adhesive plastic
hooks, wide joint grout, sealants, eye watering expenisve tile
adhesives, mini trunking ??

seems another (lately partial) "resource" has been buggered by the
"designers"

Jim K

On Apr 14, 11:55*am, Adam Aglionby wrote:

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Gorilla is low-foaming compared to some other PUs, but then so are
many of the others, intended for carpentry.

OTOH, what use is PU anyway? It's expensive, has a poor shelf life,
gives a weak joint, exceptionally bad at gap filling (fills, but
weak), needs cleanup afterwards and can't last against vibration or UV
exposure.

I use Titebond II for nearly everything, cheap PVA for biscuits, and
hot hide for furniture.

On Apr 14, 1:52*pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Apr 14, 11:55*am, Adam Aglionby wrote:

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Gorilla is low-foaming compared to some other PUs, but then so are
many of the others, intended for carpentry.

OTOH, what use is PU anyway? It's expensive, has a poor shelf life,
gives a weak joint, exceptionally bad at gap filling (fills, but
weak), needs cleanup afterwards and can't last against vibration or UV
exposure.

I use Titebond II for nearly everything, cheap PVA for biscuits, and
hot hide for furniture.

and contrary to popualr belief, PU is not waterproof if it stays wet.
Its fine if it dries out.


NT

On Apr 14, 11:55*am, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml
of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Thanks
Adam

P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control
got the same overhaul...

Balcotan (normal where in no rush, rapid for a 30 min handle-ability)
everytime for PU.

Titebond = overpriced overhyped PVA stuffed full of tackifiers to make
it seem stickier and some yellow dye.

On Apr 14, 4:13 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 14/04/2011 13:52, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Apr 14, 11:55 am, Adam wrote:

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Gorilla is low-foaming compared to some other PUs, but then so are
many of the others, intended for carpentry.

OTOH, what use is PU anyway? It's expensive, has a poor shelf life,
gives a weak joint, exceptionally bad at gap filling (fills, but
weak), needs cleanup afterwards and can't last against vibration or UV
exposure.

I use Titebond II for nearly everything, cheap PVA for biscuits, and
hot hide for furniture.

Yup, I second (most of[1]) that.

Not only that, PU is a bugger to get of your hands or clothes if you
spill any and are not wearing protective gear. If you really need gap

acetone - whilst wet

Jim K

John Rumm wrote:
On 14/04/2011 13:52, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Apr 14, 11:55 am, Adam wrote:

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Gorilla is low-foaming compared to some other PUs, but then so are
many of the others, intended for carpentry.

OTOH, what use is PU anyway? It's expensive, has a poor shelf life,
gives a weak joint, exceptionally bad at gap filling (fills, but
weak), needs cleanup afterwards and can't last against vibration or UV
exposure.

I use Titebond II for nearly everything, cheap PVA for biscuits, and
hot hide for furniture.

Yup, I second (most of[1]) that.

Not only that, PU is a bugger to get of your hands or clothes if you
spill any and are not wearing protective gear. If you really need gap
filling, then the only thing that does that with any reliability is epoxy.


BUT its brittle.

Oddly enough hot glue is actually rather good.

[1] Only "most" because I have never tried hide glues, so can't comment.


Get a glue gun. dirt cheap. Experiment. Sometimes its useless, sometimes
its just the bunny.

Bolted wrote:
On Apr 14, 11:55 am, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml
of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Thanks
Adam

P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control
got the same overhaul...

Balcotan (normal where in no rush, rapid for a 30 min handle-ability)
everytime for PU.

Titebond = overpriced overhyped PVA stuffed full of tackifiers to make
it seem stickier and some yellow dye.

otherwise known as aliphatic.

On Apr 14, 4:51*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 14/04/2011 16:26, Jim K wrote:
acetone - whilst wet

Toolstation foam cleaner being a cheap source of 500ml cans.

However PU dries fast, so you have to be quick!


The citrus type cleaners are just as effective and a bit more
gentle.

Those clean anything wipes work well as well.

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 08:18:37 -0700 (PDT), Bolted
wrote:

On Apr 14, 11:55*am, Adam Aglionby wrote:
Screwfux are over 30 quid for litre of Gorilla, Toolstation do 750ml
of Everbuild Lumberjack 5 min PU for just under a tenner.

Is Gorilla Glue worth the hefty premium over other PU glues?

Thanks
Adam

P.S. Screwfix have just redone their website, wonder if stock control
got the same overhaul...

Balcotan (normal where in no rush, rapid for a 30 min handle-ability)
everytime for PU.

Titebond = overpriced overhyped PVA stuffed full of tackifiers to make
it seem stickier and some yellow dye.

Depends on which Titebond you are using and what your requirements
are. For me, creep resistance is important (stringed musical
instruments under continuous tension) so the original Titebond (not to
be confused with Titebond Original, which isn't) is perfect.

And hot hide glue for almost everything else. The way it changes state
between liquid and solid actually draws the glued faces together so
more delicate joints (violin bits etc) can be clamped gently and still
reach full strength.

Nick

On Apr 18, 1:23*am, Nick Odell
wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 08:18:37 -0700 (PDT), Bolted
Depends on which Titebond you are using and what your requirements
are. For me, creep resistance is important (stringed musical
instruments under continuous tension) so the original Titebond (not to
be confused with Titebond Original, which isn't) is perfect.

There are better glues than PVA for creep-resistance, but the bit of
Titebond II spec (which I assume is what you mean?) which helps with
that is that it is a cross-linked PVA. So are many others, with or
without the yellow dye and aliphatic marketing puff. Anything D3
(exterior rated) is a cross-linked PVA.

Titebond is good glue, it's just overhyped as something unique.

On Apr 14, 6:30*pm, John Rumm wrote:

I have a glue gun and hot melt adhesive sticks - but I don't think that
is what Andy was referring to. I presume he meant the type of stuff one
heats up in a glue pot.

Yes. No use for on-site work, but it's fine in a workshop. The trick
is to use an electrically heated thermostatic pot, then it's no
trouble at all to work with. Its virtue for high-end furniture is a
proven ability to dismantle and repair pieces made with it in 50 years
or so.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Apr 14, 6:30 pm, John Rumm wrote:

I have a glue gun and hot melt adhesive sticks - but I don't think that
is what Andy was referring to. I presume he meant the type of stuff one
heats up in a glue pot.

Yes. No use for on-site work, but it's fine in a workshop. The trick
is to use an electrically heated thermostatic pot, then it's no
trouble at all to work with. Its virtue for high-end furniture is a
proven ability to dismantle and repair pieces made with it in 50 years
or so.


I remember doing woodwork class in school and they had a pot of heated glue,
extremely foul smelling - which I assume comprised of bones etc.
Seemed good glue, but not sure if H&S now allow it.

Interesting when we had metalwork classes ... they would happily let us use
Oxy-Acetylene welders, lathes, millers, shapers ........ I guess today kids
just use a CadCam program and don't touch real kit.

Soldering with bakers fluid probably needs a full risk assessment & HazMat
course !

On Apr 18, 3:52*pm, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

I remember doing woodwork class in school and they had a pot of heated glue,
extremely foul smelling - which I assume comprised of bones etc.

There are two distinct smells from hide glue. One is of overheated
glue (usually the bain marie has dried out) and the other is of cheap
glue.

Good glue is sold as "pearls". You soak these in cold water for half
an hour before heating, then you're running 10 minutes later (if you
don't soak them, then only melt on the surface and your glue goes
lumpy). Cheap glue is toffee-like slabs. This takes an age to soak up
beforehand, even if you crunch the stuff first. It' also smells much
more strongly, and not in a good way. I don't know about bones, I
suspect it's all lips and arseholes from the smell of it.