Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run across
the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out to the
short wall to which the joists 'join'). There was no insulation at all
hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of standard
board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I need to nog
the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support board
ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick

On 12/11/10 20:43, The Nomad wrote:
Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run across
the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out to the
short wall to which the joists 'join'). There was no insulation at all
hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of standard
board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I need to nog
the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support board
ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick
The book I'm reading says put 3" by 1" battens perpendicular to the joists,
correctly spaced for your boards, and shimmed if there's any unevenness.
I havent tried yet myself,
I wonder what those who have will suggest..
(the book says the hardest thing is taping over the joins)
[g]

On Nov 12, 8:43*pm, The Nomad wrote:
Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run across
the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out to the
short wall to which the joists 'join'). *There was no insulation at all
hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of standard
board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I need to nog
the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support board
ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick


9mm 6'x3' boards, anything bigger is too heavy & awkward. You dont
need thick board for ceilings. Use a dead man to hold them up while
you align & screw.


NT

On Nov 12, 10:15*pm, Tabby wrote:
Use a dead man to hold them up while you align & screw.

Gordon Brown any good?

In article , george [dicegeorge]
writes
On 12/11/10 20:43, The Nomad wrote:
Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run across
the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out to the
short wall to which the joists 'join'). There was no insulation at all
hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of standard
board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I need to nog
the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support board
ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick
The book I'm reading says put 3" by 1" battens perpendicular to the joists,
correctly spaced for your boards, and shimmed if there's any unevenness.
I havent tried yet myself,
I wonder what those who have will suggest..
(the book says the hardest thing is taping over the joins)
[g]

The alternative is to cut the boards short to suit the joist pitch.
Using 2400 x 1200 boards you're cutting 120mm off the length of each
board which is an easy task with a stanley knife

I'd recommend using 2400 x 1200 boards as it means fewer joints, your
35sqm with cropped 2280 x 1200 boards comes out at about 13 boards
whereas using 1800 x 900 mm minis comes out at 22 boards or a lot more
joints.

If you want to keep it DIY then use taper edge boards and don't skim. I
view 9mm as little better than cardboard so would use 12.5mm but you
will need help to fit them.

I wouldn't add extra support for the tapered edges (which are running
cross joist) but would leave a 3mm gap, scrim tape and be generous with
the board finish jointing mix to fill the gap and add strength.

The end joints aren't tapered and will be (slightly) noticeable but you
can save the cost of a plasterer if that is important.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On 12 Nov,
The Nomad wrote:

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of standard
board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I need to nog
the joins/edges of the boards?

You'll not need to nog the joints. Put the length across the joists and cut
to length (you'd lose 4" on an 8' board) to put joints in the middle of the
joists.

I would use taper edge boards (thickness to suit fire regs, 9.5 would span
ok) and just tape and fill the joints.

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

On 12 Nov,
fred wrote:

I'd recommend using 2400 x 1200 boards as it means fewer joints, your
35sqm with cropped 2280 x 1200 boards comes out at about 13 boards
whereas using 1800 x 900 mm minis comes out at 22 boards or a lot more
joints.

More joints, but heavier boards. I got 1200 boards for my ceiling, and after
lifting one, I changed to 900mm, using the 1200 for walls. With assistance
1200 would be ok. 9.5mm at 2400mm board may be too bendy for single handed
fitting.

One or two large T squares to support the boards are almost essential, 2x2
with a length of floorboard for the top bit is what I used, a few mm more
than room height.

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 00:05:59 +0000, me9 wrote:

On 12 Nov,
fred wrote:

I'd recommend using 2400 x 1200 boards as it means fewer joints, your
35sqm with cropped 2280 x 1200 boards comes out at about 13 boards
whereas using 1800 x 900 mm minis comes out at 22 boards or a lot more
joints.

More joints, but heavier boards. I got 1200 boards for my ceiling, and
after lifting one, I changed to 900mm, using the 1200 for walls. With
assistance 1200 would be ok. 9.5mm at 2400mm board may be too bendy for
single handed fitting.

One or two large T squares to support the boards are almost essential,
2x2 with a length of floorboard for the top bit is what I used, a few mm
more than room height.

Guys,

Thank you for that (and the others who have replied) that sounds like a
doable job - I've got a favour or two to call in when it comes to the
lifting thing.

I am trying to avoid a plasterer for various reasons not least I can't
strip the room to make access easy for them.

Thanks again

Nick

On Nov 13, 8:19*am, The Nomad wrote:
On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 00:05:59 +0000, me9 wrote:
On 12 Nov,
* * *fred wrote:

I'd recommend using 2400 x 1200 boards as it means fewer joints, your
35sqm with cropped 2280 x 1200 boards comes out at about 13 boards
whereas using 1800 x 900 mm minis comes out at 22 boards or a lot more
joints.

More joints, but heavier boards. I got 1200 boards for my ceiling, and
after lifting one, I changed to 900mm, using the 1200 for walls. *With
assistance 1200 would be ok. 9.5mm at 2400mm board may be too bendy for
single handed fitting.

One or two large T squares to support the boards are almost essential,
2x2 with a length of floorboard for the top bit is what I used, a few mm
more than room height.

Guys,

Thank you for that (and the others who have replied) that sounds like a
doable job - I've got a favour or two to call in when it comes to the
lifting thing.

I am trying to avoid a plasterer for various reasons not least I can't
strip the room to make access easy for them.

Thanks again

Nick

That's quite doable, just leave a 5-7mm gap between the boards so you
can squeeze lots of plaster in to reinforce the joint.

Re the boards, you'll need asssitance lifting them, though it is
possible, albeit a little awkward, to do 6x3 9mm on your own, using a
dead man. I'd suggest 2x 1/2 for it rather than 2x2, makes it easy to
bend into position.


NT

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 14:51:31 -0800 (PST), js.b1 wrote:

On Nov 12, 10:15*pm, Tabby wrote:
Use a dead man to hold them up while you align & screw.

Gordon Brown any good?

Nah, that's a zombie[1]

[1] TFBUNDY; a medical term: totally f'd but unfortunately not dead yet.
Used by A&E staff.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 00:05:59 GMT wrote :
More joints, but heavier boards. I got 1200 boards for my ceiling, and
after lifting one, I changed to 900mm, using the 1200 for walls. With
assistance 1200 would be ok. 9.5mm at 2400mm board may be too bendy for
single handed fitting.

Here they use 3600 boards glued and nailed to studs/joists. Walls are done
with the boards in landscape mode so that smaller rooms have one
horizontal joint only per wall.

--
Tony Bryer, Greentram: 'Software to build on' Melbourne, Australia
www.superbeam.co.uk www.eurobeam.co.uk www.greentram.com

The Nomad wrote:
Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run
across the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out
to the short wall to which the joists 'join'). There was no
insulation at all hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that
right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of
standard board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I
need to nog the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support
board ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick

Firstly, if you've never plated a ceiling before, you aren't going to be
able to get it good enough to just tape the joints, it will need plastering.

15in centres is slightly odd as they are normally 16in, but no, you don't
need any extra support or noggins.

You're better off using 6X3 plasterboards and get the thinner ones as they
are easier to handle, and they need to be fixed pale side down.

They have to be jointed in the centre of a joist on the shortest edge, that
is to say, the edge that is 3ft will be fixed, the long edge won't, and
obviously you will need to cut them so that they land on a joist.

If the joists are thin, you might want to get some 2X1 batten to add a bit
of extra width to the joists that the boards meet on - you won't need it on
all the joists.

Before you start, mark a line on each wall where the joists are, and use
screws rather than nails to affix the boards.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On Nov 13, 6:39*pm, "Phil L" wrote:
The Nomad wrote:
Evening all,

The room is an extension, single story with a flat roof (yes I know!)
approx size is 6.6m * 5.3m (with a corner cut out) the joists run
across the short edge (there is a RSJ from the corner of the cut out
to the short wall to which the joists 'join'). *There was no
insulation at all hence it was so hot/cold, I've almost put that
right.

The question si as the joists are 15" centres - not a divisor of
standard board sizes, which way to run the boards and should I/ do I
need to nog the joins/edges of the boards?

My feeling is I need to put quite a bit of wood in there to support
board ends/edges to prevent sagging.

As a follow up question 9.5 or 12.5mm board?

TIA

Have a good week-end

Nick

Firstly, if you've never plated a ceiling before, you aren't going to be
able to get it good enough to just tape the joints, it will need plastering.

its not that hard, if youre decent with filler.


NT