I need to replace the ceiling in our kitchen. Looking at the Wickes site
they have various plasterboards but with different names, baseboard,
wallboard, plasterboard etc. Apart from the name and sizes is there any
practical difference between these products and any I shouldn't use.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plasterboard...cat/plastboard

Hoping to do this as a one man job so was looking at the 9.5mm, smaller
sized sheets to keep the weight down and for easier transportation. Room is
only about 10' x 8' so cost not a factor really.

Thanks

Jim

you can use 2 x 1 " timber battens screwed through to the joists at 400 mm
centers,

use 12,5mm plasterboard 1800 x 900 is a convienent size for less experienced
touse,

screwed not nailed to battens if you are skimming with plaster

Jim wrote:

I need to replace the ceiling in our kitchen. Looking at the Wickes site
they have various plasterboards but with different names, baseboard,
wallboard, plasterboard etc. Apart from the name and sizes is there any
practical difference between these products and any I shouldn't use.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plasterboard...cat/plastboard

Hoping to do this as a one man job so was looking at the 9.5mm, smaller
sized sheets to keep the weight down and for easier transportation. Room is
only about 10' x 8' so cost not a factor really.

Since it is a kitchen I would suggest using the thicker 12.7mm stuff in
the interests of fire protection. Since you are skimming it then square
edge boards will be fine. If you make yourself a deadman prop then even
the larger sheets are not too difficult to handle.

Screw the boards using proper drywall screws and the appropriate
shrouded bit on your drill. Tape the joints with the fibreglass scrim
tape before plastering.

--
Cheers,

John.

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"ALex" wrote in message
...
you can use 2 x 1 " timber battens screwed through to the joists at 400 mm
centers,

use 12,5mm plasterboard 1800 x 900 is a convienent size for less
experienced touse,

screwed not nailed to battens if you are skimming with plaster

In a couple of months I also need to re plasterboard my lounge ceiling and
for obvious reasons I would prefer not to take the existing cruddy
plasterboard out.
Am I right in assuming that your proposal for Jim is to batten over
(actually under:-)) the existing old plasterboard and then screw on the new
plasterboard leaving a 1 inch air gap between it and the old? If this is the
case it would very much simplify my job.
Regards
Don

"John Rumm" wrote in message
news:XJydnWU6BJHiCGzanZ2dnUVZ8qeknZ2d@plusnet...
Jim wrote:

I need to replace the ceiling in our kitchen. Looking at the Wickes site
they have various plasterboards but with different names, baseboard,
wallboard, plasterboard etc. Apart from the name and sizes is there any
practical difference between these products and any I shouldn't use.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plasterboard...cat/plastboard

Hoping to do this as a one man job so was looking at the 9.5mm, smaller
sized sheets to keep the weight down and for easier transportation. Room
is only about 10' x 8' so cost not a factor really.

Since it is a kitchen I would suggest using the thicker 12.7mm stuff in
the interests of fire protection. Since you are skimming it then square
edge boards will be fine. If you make yourself a deadman prop then even
the larger sheets are not too difficult to handle.

Screw the boards using proper drywall screws and the appropriate shrouded
bit on your drill. Tape the joints with the fibreglass scrim tape before
plastering.

"appropriate Shrouded Bit"? What is it please?
Don

In message , Donwill
writes

"ALex" wrote in message
...
you can use 2 x 1 " timber battens screwed through to the joists at 400 mm
centers,

use 12,5mm plasterboard 1800 x 900 is a convienent size for less
experienced touse,

screwed not nailed to battens if you are skimming with plaster

In a couple of months I also need to re plasterboard my lounge ceiling and
for obvious reasons I would prefer not to take the existing cruddy
plasterboard out.
Am I right in assuming that your proposal for Jim is to batten over
(actually under:-)) the existing old plasterboard and then screw on the new
plasterboard leaving a 1 inch air gap between it and the old? If this is the
case it would very much simplify my job.

I overboard some ceilings in my old house (old lath and plaster) I just
screwed it straight through the old ceiling into the joists. Didn't
bother about battens
--
Chris French

"chris French" wrote in message
...
In message , Donwill
writes

"ALex" wrote in message
...
you can use 2 x 1 " timber battens screwed through to the joists at 400
mm
centers,

use 12,5mm plasterboard 1800 x 900 is a convienent size for less
experienced touse,

screwed not nailed to battens if you are skimming with plaster

In a couple of months I also need to re plasterboard my lounge ceiling and
for obvious reasons I would prefer not to take the existing cruddy
plasterboard out.
Am I right in assuming that your proposal for Jim is to batten over
(actually under:-)) the existing old plasterboard and then screw on the
new
plasterboard leaving a 1 inch air gap between it and the old? If this is
the
case it would very much simplify my job.

I overboard some ceilings in my old house (old lath and plaster) I just
screwed it straight through the old ceiling into the joists. Didn't bother
about battens

Ditto - find out where the joists are first and felt pen their centre
lines - makes it much easier! Use longer screws or nails


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Donwill wrote:

Screw the boards using proper drywall screws and the appropriate shrouded
bit on your drill. Tape the joints with the fibreglass scrim tape before
plastering.

"appropriate Shrouded Bit"? What is it please?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46278/...Phillips-2-5Pk

The shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the
screw set to just the right depth. Hence you can spin the screws in at a
high speed and the bit will ensure you don't over drive them.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
news:4pKdnUrtooH8r2_aRVnyjgA@plusnet...
Donwill wrote:

Screw the boards using proper drywall screws and the appropriate
shrouded bit on your drill. Tape the joints with the fibreglass scrim
tape before plastering.

"appropriate Shrouded Bit"? What is it please?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46278/...Phillips-2-5Pk

The shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the
screw set to just the right depth. Hence you can spin the screws in at a
high speed and the bit will ensure you don't over drive them.

--
Cheers,

John.


Thanks for the tip about the shroud driver, I'll stick that on the Screwfix
order. Will the 3.5mm x 38mm Screwfix drywall screws be OK or should I go
longer

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12984/...ews-3-5-x-38mm

Out of interest what's the alternative (if any) to skimming a ceiling. I've
never tackled anything bigger than a small patch so would have to get a
plasterer in for the work, if this could be avoided so much the better.

Cheers

Jim

In article ,
"Jim" writes:

Thanks for the tip about the shroud driver, I'll stick that on the Screwfix
order. Will the 3.5mm x 38mm Screwfix drywall screws be OK or should I go
longer

IIRC, that's what I just used on a stud wall.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12984/...ews-3-5-x-38mm

Out of interest what's the alternative (if any) to skimming a ceiling. I've
never tackled anything bigger than a small patch so would have to get a
plasterer in for the work, if this could be avoided so much the better.

You could use bevel-edged board and fill the join with filler.
It doesn't look as good as (good) plastering though.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Jim wrote:

Thanks for the tip about the shroud driver, I'll stick that on the Screwfix
order. Will the 3.5mm x 38mm Screwfix drywall screws be OK or should I go
longer

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12984/...ews-3-5-x-38mm

For half inch board directly onto joists 25mm is enough. If you are
going through another layer as well then 38 sounds good.

Out of interest what's the alternative (if any) to skimming a ceiling. I've
never tackled anything bigger than a small patch so would have to get a
plasterer in for the work, if this could be avoided so much the better.

Using taper edge board with scrim and filled joints. Slightly easier to
do, but requires some sanding to get the final finish. If done well it
can look very good (pretty much standard practice for shop fitting these
days).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"appropriate Shrouded Bit"? What is it please?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46278/...Phillips-2-5Pk

The shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the
screw set to just the right depth. Hence you can spin the screws in at a
high speed and the bit will ensure you don't over drive them.
Cheers,
John.

Many thanks John
Don