further to an earlier post about fitting halogen downlighters to an old lath
& plaster ceiling I have decided to bite the bullet, pull it down &
plasterboard it, have told the missus yet though! I have skimmed before with
rather pleasing results & I have done ceilings. However this one is a lot
higher than the ones I have done before, from stood on a box and probably
larger in area. So I thought I would try to just dry line it but never
attempted this before. Can a satisfactory finish be achieved first time out
the blocks with this job? I will be using P/B laths as will be fitting on my
own and find the sheets to hard to manage. Should I just get a plasterer in
to whiz over the ceiling with a skim coat.
Can I use the fibreglass sticky tape to line the joints or does it have to
be the paper stuff. Also thought I might screw these boards into place as I
have heard other people do, screw recommendations please... thanks for
reading

simon beer wrote:
further to an earlier post about fitting halogen downlighters to an old lath
& plaster ceiling I have decided to bite the bullet, pull it down &
plasterboard it, have told the missus yet though! I have skimmed before with
rather pleasing results & I have done ceilings. However this one is a lot
higher than the ones I have done before, from stood on a box and probably
larger in area. So I thought I would try to just dry line it but never
attempted this before. Can a satisfactory finish be achieved first time out
the blocks with this job? I will be using P/B laths as will be fitting on my
own and find the sheets to hard to manage. Should I just get a plasterer in
to whiz over the ceiling with a skim coat.
Can I use the fibreglass sticky tape to line the joints or does it have to
be the paper stuff. Also thought I might screw these boards into place as I
have heard other people do, screw recommendations please... thanks for
reading


I prefer using proper japanned drywall screws, but whichever type of
screw you decide on, you really need to use a power driver. Preferably
one that disengages at a set depth, otherwise one with *repeatable*
torque control accuracy and be prepared to practice on some scrap sheet
to get the depth right.
Not deep enough gives obvious problems, whereas breaking the paper
surface means the head could pull through, maybe later on...

Lee


--
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld.com

Did the same earlier this year and it creates an enormous amount of mess
and I wished I'd just boarded over the top of the lathe and plaster.

Jon


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Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

"Lee Blaver" wrote in message
...
simon beer wrote:
further to an earlier post about fitting halogen downlighters to an old
lath
& plaster ceiling I have decided to bite the bullet, pull it down &
plasterboard it, have told the missus yet though! I have skimmed before
with
rather pleasing results & I have done ceilings. However this one is a
lot
higher than the ones I have done before, from stood on a box and
probably
larger in area. So I thought I would try to just dry line it but never
attempted this before. Can a satisfactory finish be achieved first time
out
the blocks with this job? I will be using P/B laths as will be fitting
on my
own and find the sheets to hard to manage. Should I just get a plasterer
in
to whiz over the ceiling with a skim coat.
Can I use the fibreglass sticky tape to line the joints or does it have
to
be the paper stuff. Also thought I might screw these boards into place
as I
have heard other people do, screw recommendations please... thanks for
reading


I prefer using proper japanned drywall screws, but whichever type of
screw you decide on, you really need to use a power driver. Preferably
one that disengages at a set depth, otherwise one with *repeatable*
torque control accuracy and be prepared to practice on some scrap sheet
to get the depth right.
Not deep enough gives obvious problems, whereas breaking the paper
surface means the head could pull through, maybe later on...

Lee


--
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld.com


Or just use a drywall adapter, sets the head of the screw flush to the
board, see Axminster Power Tools Part No. MERDW2P £2.98 for 5 (they're the
only suppliers I've found).

Regards
Chris

Chris and Patsy wrote:


I prefer using proper japanned drywall screws, but whichever type of
screw you decide on, you really need to use a power driver. Preferably
one that disengages at a set depth...
snip


Or just use a drywall adapter, sets the head of the screw flush to the
board, see Axminster Power Tools Part No. MERDW2P £2.98 for 5 (they're the
only suppliers I've found).

Regards
Chris

That looks like a really useful thing to throw in the toolbox, just in
case

Lee
--
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld.com

"Jonathan Curtis" wrote in message
news:64bb963d91951abeefa218782dfaf119.113530@mygat e.mailgate.org...
Did the same earlier this year and it creates an enormous amount of mess
and I wished I'd just boarded over the top of the lathe and plaster.

I am well aware of the mess as have done it before, but I intend to seal the
room off as well as poss and the room is empty. The results are worth it. I
also love getting dirty and wrecking things!!

"simon beer" wrote in message
...

"Jonathan Curtis" wrote in message
news:64bb963d91951abeefa218782dfaf119.113530@mygat e.mailgate.org...
Did the same earlier this year and it creates an enormous amount of mess
and I wished I'd just boarded over the top of the lathe and plaster.

I am well aware of the mess as have done it before, but I intend to seal
the
room off as well as poss and the room is empty. The results are worth it.
I
also love getting dirty and wrecking things!!

you can of course deluge it with water first
and then attack the lathes with a rotozip