Fridge freezer controls have gone awol, turns out the connection between
the fascia switch pcb and the control pcb is one of those printed
flexible cables, like pcb tracks on a flexi substrate. This had been
installed badly and squashed, so I think some of the tracks have been
broken (the cable creasing is obvious, but actual breaks are not).

Anyhow, the replacement part is the whole fascia - £250. Gulp.
(expensive German appliance, no warranty). All for the sake of a stupid
2p cable.

I can get at the cable before the creasing starts, and have clear access
to the control pcb end, but the joint the other end between cable and
the fascia switch pcb is not accessible. So I can't just solder on
something more fit for purpose at that end, and would have to cut the
existing cable and pick up the traces somehow, and add an extension to
replace the creased bit.

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

On Sun, 09 May 2010 11:23:38 +0100, Bolted
wrote:


Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

Yes. ;-)

Depending on loads of variables you may be able to scrape some of the
insulation off the 'track' a bit away from the suspected break and
solder a fine wire to it (might not be pretty but can work, paint and
tape over it when finished / tested).

I've done such on the flexi-cables they often use on motorbike /
scooter dash clusters these days grrrr.

Working on the basis you have nothing to lose ... ?
Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

Yes. ;-)

Depending on loads of variables you may be able to scrape some of the
insulation off the 'track' a bit away from the suspected break and
solder a fine wire to it (might not be pretty but can work, paint and
tape over it when finished / tested).

Thanks Tim, I saw that on a google search, good to know it might work in
the real world

I'll have to find out if they will sell the replacement part on a return
basis (or if I can buy it online). As the repair will take out the f/f
if it doesn't work...

Depending on loads of variables you may be able to scrape some of the
insulation off the 'track' a bit away from the suspected break and
solder a fine wire to it (might not be pretty but can work, paint and
tape over it when finished / tested).

I've done this with a cable in a solid old 1970's computer (a PDP11 I
think).

Lifted the top layer of insulation (mylar?) with a scalpel, flowed a
bit of solder onto the surface, and attached a bit of wire-wrap wire.

Fiddly, and done with the advantages of a lab bench to work on and top
quality tools. Likely to be a good bit trickier in less than ideal
conditions.

On Sun, 09 May 2010 11:35:40 +0100, Bolted
wrote:

T i m wrote:

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

Yes. ;-)

Depending on loads of variables you may be able to scrape some of the
insulation off the 'track' a bit away from the suspected break and
solder a fine wire to it (might not be pretty but can work, paint and
tape over it when finished / tested).

Thanks Tim, I saw that on a google search, good to know it might work in
the real world

I'll have to find out if they will sell the replacement part on a return
basis (or if I can buy it online). As the repair will take out the f/f
if it doesn't work...

Or eBay or your local dump / Freecycle? You might find that part is
common to a range of models or even across different 'makes' (as they
all seem to come from just a few factories these days)?

Bit of a long shot I know but ... (I've helped someone here with a
washing machine controller I kept back from a newish machine I was
scrapping for example).

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Another long shot but if this was like this from new I wonder if
the company might be willing to offer a solution even though it's
outside what we a taught to accept to be the std warranty period? This
isn't 'wear and tear' after all is it?

On May 9, 12:37*pm, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 09 May 2010 11:35:40 +0100, Bolted
wrote:





T i m wrote:

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

Yes. ;-)

Depending on loads of variables you may be able to scrape some of the
insulation off the 'track' a bit away from the suspected break and
solder a fine wire to it (might not be pretty but can work, paint and
tape over it when finished / tested).

Thanks Tim, I saw that on a google search, good to know it might work in
the real world

I'll have to find out if they will sell the replacement part on a return
basis (or if I can buy it online). *As the repair will take out the f/f
if it doesn't work...

Or eBay or your local dump / Freecycle? You might find that part is
common to a range of models or even across different 'makes' (as they
all seem to come from just a few factories these days)?

Bit of a long shot I know but ... (I've helped someone here with a
washing machine controller I kept back from a newish machine I was
scrapping for example).

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Another long shot but if this was like this from new I wonder if
the company might be willing to offer a solution even though it's
outside what we a taught to accept to be the std warranty period? This
isn't 'wear and tear' after all is it?

I have a hotpoint quatro fridge, dont buy one, the left door has a
heater in it, a fridge with a heater ffs, anyway at less than a year
old the cable going to the heater cracked by the hinge, exposing bare
copper, at 240 volts.
I got the door replaced under warranty, but not impressed.
dont buy hotpoint anything.

In article ,
misterroy writes:
I have a hotpoint quatro fridge, dont buy one, the left door has a
heater in it, a fridge with a heater ffs, anyway at less than a year

I think all freezers do, to prevent condensation on the cabinet/door
due to cold bridge. Sometimes it's electric and can be switched off,
sometimes it's a warm refrigerant pipe. Usually it's in the cabinet
just under the door frame, rather than the door.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 9 May, 11:23, Bolted wrote:

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

Yes. It's a PITA requiring much scraping, pre-tinning, fine soldering
and the use of a decent flux, but it's workable.

"Bolted" wrote in message
...
Fridge freezer controls have gone awol, turns out the connection between
the fascia switch pcb and the control pcb is one of those printed flexible
cables, like pcb tracks on a flexi substrate. This had been installed
badly and squashed, so I think some of the tracks have been broken (the
cable creasing is obvious, but actual breaks are not).

Anyhow, the replacement part is the whole fascia - £250. Gulp. (expensive
German appliance, no warranty). All for the sake of a stupid 2p cable.

I can get at the cable before the creasing starts, and have clear access
to the control pcb end, but the joint the other end between cable and the
fascia switch pcb is not accessible. So I can't just solder on something
more fit for purpose at that end, and would have to cut the existing cable
and pick up the traces somehow, and add an extension to replace the
creased bit.

Anyone succeeded in doing anything like this?

How old is the appliance?

Snipped

I got the door replaced under warranty, but not impressed.
dont buy hotpoint anything.


I think your advice is a little naive and based on bitterness. Most white
goods are just badged to suit the market. The one you experienced may have
never been inside a factory with the name Hotpoint on it. Best to take any
model on its merits / value for money / features. The name has little
meaning these days.

On 9 May, 19:04, misterroy wrote:

I have a hotpoint quatro fridge, dont buy one, the left door has a
heater in it, a fridge with a heater ffs,

That heater is important if you live in the humid climate of the
Southern States of the USA. It avoids condensation and mould problems.
In the dry climate of Manchester? Bit pointless, agreed. Still, not
hard to disable it.


My Hotpoint is 18 months old now and going fine. I had to grit my
teeth before buying it, but OTOH, it is Polish-made and seems well-
designed and well-made.