Mark wrote:

I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

Where are you looking? There is specific welding cable for the purpose.

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

Perce


On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.


Perce

On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.

Well, I just noticed I overlooked the power cord portion---though the
was looking ro replace welding cable. Power line cable should be ok
altho if it is a very flexible cord, it may well be the welding cable as
well, not a power cord which typically is stranded, but larger strands.

On 09/01/05 10:35 am Duane Bozarth tossed the following ingredients into
the ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.

It seemed to me that he was talking about the power cord from the welder
to the power outlet, not the cables from the welder to the work and the
rod holder.

Perce


On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.


Perce

He was wanting POWER cable not welding cable. I use a range cord on mine.
WW





On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper
rigid
stuff.

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

On 09/01/05 10:35 am Duane Bozarth tossed the following ingredients into
the ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.

It seemed to me that he was talking about the power cord from the welder
to the power outlet, not the cables from the welder to the work and the
rod holder.


Yeah, I noticed that after the previous post...I made a followup but you
probably haven't seen it yet. Sorry...

Warren Weber wrote:

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

What about cords for electric driers or ranges?

What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable...

OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply.


Perce

He was wanting POWER cable not welding cable. I use a range cord on mine.
WW

Yeah, I saw that after I posted...made a followup but obviously you
hadn't seen it yet.

It's called "welding cable". Search for it.

wrote:

It's called "welding cable". Search for it.

???

"I need to replace a power cord..."

We're now in a mode of that's what I told OP but others noticed the OP's
request wasn't for welding cable at all---as I also noted in a followup
already, some manufacturers might use the same cable for the power cable
as well.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper
rigid
stuff.

8/3 SO if you can find it (and afford it)

"Mark" wrote in message
...
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores
may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would.

According to :
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:55:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
.. .
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores
may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would.

Home Depot has both

SJ is light-medium outdoor duty. If the cord is going to be "abused" (walked
on, taken outdoors, get wet, lying on gravel/metal grit, hit with lotsa
sparks etc), I'd recommend _against_ using SJ or dryer/stove cord. If it's
never going to move, and the cord is out of the way, _then_ SJ or dryer/stove
cord is okay.

SJ sheathing doesn't like UV very much, and the sheath is less puncture proof
than you want.

SO or SOW is what I'd use for a large welder unless the wire is protected.
_Much_ tougher stuff.

The "premium" wire for this is TECK cable - rubber-sheathed armor cable with
stranded conductors. It's what they use in mines, and power distribution for
things like carnival rides or outdoor concerts... Expensive as all getout,
special order.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:55:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote:


"Mark" wrote in message
.. .
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper
rigid
stuff.

Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores
may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would.



Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean? What would you guess
25' is going to cost?




Actually you will probably have better luck referring to it by the "trade
name"

CABTIRE

Most any electrical supply's can sell you short cuts as long as you need.

The SO or SJ just refer to the type of covering construction and materials.

Some can be run over with construction equipment and never suffer
(crushproof) others are oil/chemical resistant etc.

prices depend on the quality of the coverings but sounds like you could get
away with the cheapest stuff.

This link should explain a lot

http://hillsupplies.com/cgi-bin/sear...odit&d=01&ft=1

AMUN

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:55:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote:


"Mark" wrote in message
.. .
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the
original cord
is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid
stuff.

Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores
may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would.



Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean?

It's a rubber jacketed stranded wire cable. I believe SO insulation is
rated at 300V, where SJ is 600V. For 220V (8/3 w/ground) operation, I
think you need SJ.

What would you guess 25' is going to cost?

If you have to ask, you can't afford it. ;-) I bought some 12/2
w/ground SO at the BORG last weekend for a little over $1/ft. I'd be
surprised if 8/3 was less than $6/7 per foot.

--
Keith

According to krw :
Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean?

It's a rubber jacketed stranded wire cable. I believe SO insulation is
rated at 300V, where SJ is 600V. For 220V (8/3 w/ground) operation, I
think you need SJ.

SJ is medium duty. SO is heavy duty. SOW is "heavy duty, wet
locations".

SO is to be preferred. I'd only recommend SJ if the welder was
going to be stationary, and you can keep the cord out of the way
of getting cut/hit/splattered/walked on.

The heavy-duty "contractor duty" extension cords[*] you find at the
Borg are SO or SOW.

SJ is the step below "contractor duty", and a step above the thin
orange-ribbed stuff (light duty). Zip cord is a step below the
orange stuff ;-)

You don't need /3 for a welder. /2 will do. /3 in flexible cord
is pretty exotic stuff (combined 240/120 devices) except for 4 wire
ranges and dryers (preassembled cords).

[There's actually a whole host of "S" series specifications. S, SO,
SOW, SJ, SJO, SJOW etc. SJ prefix are medium duty. The "S" are
heavier. O means outdoor (ie: UV/freezing resistance). W means
wet. etc.]


What would you guess 25' is going to cost?

If you have to ask, you can't afford it. ;-) I bought some 12/2
w/ground SO at the BORG last weekend for a little over $1/ft. I'd be
surprised if 8/3 was less than $6/7 per foot.

A welder isn't going to need /3. It sounds like SO (or SJ)
8/2 would be the best choice.

I _suspect_ you'd pay around $3-4/foot for SO 8/2. Some years ago,
I paid $1.50/ft for SO 10/2.

Keep it as short as you can get away with.

NOTE that "Northern" (aka "Northern Hydraulics") probably has
welder replacement cords for a bit less than you can cobble them
together yourself.
[*] The fat things that come in all sorts of pretty colours, massive
molded connectors, and cost an arm and a leg.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

In article ,
says...
According to krw :
Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean?

It's a rubber jacketed stranded wire cable. I believe SO insulation is
rated at 300V, where SJ is 600V. For 220V (8/3 w/ground) operation, I
think you need SJ.

SJ is medium duty. SO is heavy duty. SOW is "heavy duty, wet
locations".

SO is to be preferred. I'd only recommend SJ if the welder was
going to be stationary, and you can keep the cord out of the way
of getting cut/hit/splattered/walked on.

Interesting enough to look up. ;-)

http://www.stagelight.com/toolbox/cabspec.htm

Apparently SJ is lighter S (S = stranded), as you say. The 'O' is for
"oil resistant".

snip
A welder isn't going to need /3. It sounds like SO (or SJ)
8/2 would be the best choice.

I thought the SO had 8/3 and was replacing it. Still, 600V is needed,
IMO.

I _suspect_ you'd pay around $3-4/foot for SO 8/2. Some years ago,
I paid $1.50/ft for SO 10/2.

Keep it as short as you can get away with.

And/or go up a size.

NOTE that "Northern" (aka "Northern Hydraulics") probably has
welder replacement cords for a bit less than you can cobble them
together yourself.

[*] The fat things that come in all sorts of pretty colours, massive
molded connectors, and cost an arm and a leg.

;-)

--
Keith