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Do they make a flexible style romex or electrical cable ?
Mark wrote:
I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. Where are you looking? There is specific welding cable for the purpose. |
What about cords for electric driers or ranges?
Perce On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. |
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. Perce On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. |
Duane Bozarth wrote:
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote: What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. Well, I just noticed I overlooked the power cord portion---though the was looking ro replace welding cable. Power line cable should be ok altho if it is a very flexible cord, it may well be the welding cable as well, not a power cord which typically is stranded, but larger strands. |
On 09/01/05 10:35 am Duane Bozarth tossed the following ingredients into
the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. It seemed to me that he was talking about the power cord from the welder to the power outlet, not the cables from the welder to the work and the rod holder. Perce On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. |
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message ... "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote: What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. Perce He was wanting POWER cable not welding cable. I use a range cord on mine. WW On 09/01/05 10:21 am Mark tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. |
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 09/01/05 10:35 am Duane Bozarth tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. It seemed to me that he was talking about the power cord from the welder to the power outlet, not the cables from the welder to the work and the rod holder. Yeah, I noticed that after the previous post...I made a followup but you probably haven't seen it yet. Sorry... |
Warren Weber wrote:
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message ... "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote: What about cords for electric driers or ranges? What about them? Not the same thing as welding cable... OP just needs to go to full-line electrical supply or a welding supply. Perce He was wanting POWER cable not welding cable. I use a range cord on mine. WW Yeah, I saw that after I posted...made a followup but obviously you hadn't seen it yet. |
It's called "welding cable". Search for it.
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"Mark" wrote in message ... I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. 8/3 SO if you can find it (and afford it) |
"Mark" wrote in message ... I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would. |
According to :
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:55:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote: "Mark" wrote in message .. . I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would. Home Depot has both SJ is light-medium outdoor duty. If the cord is going to be "abused" (walked on, taken outdoors, get wet, lying on gravel/metal grit, hit with lotsa sparks etc), I'd recommend _against_ using SJ or dryer/stove cord. If it's never going to move, and the cord is out of the way, _then_ SJ or dryer/stove cord is okay. SJ sheathing doesn't like UV very much, and the sheath is less puncture proof than you want. SO or SOW is what I'd use for a large welder unless the wire is protected. _Much_ tougher stuff. The "premium" wire for this is TECK cable - rubber-sheathed armor cable with stranded conductors. It's what they use in mines, and power distribution for things like carnival rides or outdoor concerts... Expensive as all getout, special order. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
"Mark" wrote in message ... On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:55:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote: "Mark" wrote in message .. . I need to replace a power cord on my welder. It's #8 wire and the original cord is nice and flexible, but all I can seem to find is the solid copper rigid stuff. Look for SO or SJ cord. Your not going to like the price. The box stores may not have it. An electrical wholesaler surely would. Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean? What would you guess 25' is going to cost? Actually you will probably have better luck referring to it by the "trade name" CABTIRE Most any electrical supply's can sell you short cuts as long as you need. The SO or SJ just refer to the type of covering construction and materials. Some can be run over with construction equipment and never suffer (crushproof) others are oil/chemical resistant etc. prices depend on the quality of the coverings but sounds like you could get away with the cheapest stuff. This link should explain a lot http://hillsupplies.com/cgi-bin/sear...odit&d=01&ft=1 AMUN |
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According to krw :
Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean? It's a rubber jacketed stranded wire cable. I believe SO insulation is rated at 300V, where SJ is 600V. For 220V (8/3 w/ground) operation, I think you need SJ. SJ is medium duty. SO is heavy duty. SOW is "heavy duty, wet locations". SO is to be preferred. I'd only recommend SJ if the welder was going to be stationary, and you can keep the cord out of the way of getting cut/hit/splattered/walked on. The heavy-duty "contractor duty" extension cords[*] you find at the Borg are SO or SOW. SJ is the step below "contractor duty", and a step above the thin orange-ribbed stuff (light duty). Zip cord is a step below the orange stuff ;-) You don't need /3 for a welder. /2 will do. /3 in flexible cord is pretty exotic stuff (combined 240/120 devices) except for 4 wire ranges and dryers (preassembled cords). [There's actually a whole host of "S" series specifications. S, SO, SOW, SJ, SJO, SJOW etc. SJ prefix are medium duty. The "S" are heavier. O means outdoor (ie: UV/freezing resistance). W means wet. etc.] What would you guess 25' is going to cost? If you have to ask, you can't afford it. ;-) I bought some 12/2 w/ground SO at the BORG last weekend for a little over $1/ft. I'd be surprised if 8/3 was less than $6/7 per foot. A welder isn't going to need /3. It sounds like SO (or SJ) 8/2 would be the best choice. I _suspect_ you'd pay around $3-4/foot for SO 8/2. Some years ago, I paid $1.50/ft for SO 10/2. Keep it as short as you can get away with. NOTE that "Northern" (aka "Northern Hydraulics") probably has welder replacement cords for a bit less than you can cobble them together yourself. [*] The fat things that come in all sorts of pretty colours, massive molded connectors, and cost an arm and a leg. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
In article ,
says... According to krw : Thanks for the tip. But what does SO and SJ mean? It's a rubber jacketed stranded wire cable. I believe SO insulation is rated at 300V, where SJ is 600V. For 220V (8/3 w/ground) operation, I think you need SJ. SJ is medium duty. SO is heavy duty. SOW is "heavy duty, wet locations". SO is to be preferred. I'd only recommend SJ if the welder was going to be stationary, and you can keep the cord out of the way of getting cut/hit/splattered/walked on. Interesting enough to look up. ;-) http://www.stagelight.com/toolbox/cabspec.htm Apparently SJ is lighter S (S = stranded), as you say. The 'O' is for "oil resistant". snip A welder isn't going to need /3. It sounds like SO (or SJ) 8/2 would be the best choice. I thought the SO had 8/3 and was replacing it. Still, 600V is needed, IMO. I _suspect_ you'd pay around $3-4/foot for SO 8/2. Some years ago, I paid $1.50/ft for SO 10/2. Keep it as short as you can get away with. And/or go up a size. NOTE that "Northern" (aka "Northern Hydraulics") probably has welder replacement cords for a bit less than you can cobble them together yourself. [*] The fat things that come in all sorts of pretty colours, massive molded connectors, and cost an arm and a leg. ;-) -- Keith |
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