So far I have a 6 mm cable from the fuse box to the kitchen,
terminating in a cooker 'socket' (correct term? It has a neon light,
dpdt switch and the incoming and output terminals are inside it. It is
not fused and there is no hole to run the cooker cable out)

I imagine I need to continue the supply to another 15a fused outlet
with a hole for the cooker flex with a gripper fitted in a convenient
location at the back of the cooker?
Or what should I do?

Thanks

Tony

"TonyJeffs" wrote in message
om...
So far I have a 6 mm cable from the fuse box to the kitchen,
terminating in a cooker 'socket' (correct term? It has a neon light,
dpdt switch and the incoming and output terminals are inside it. It is
not fused and there is no hole to run the cooker cable out)

I imagine I need to continue the supply to another 15a fused outlet
with a hole for the cooker flex with a gripper fitted in a convenient
location at the back of the cooker?
Or what should I do?

Thanks

Tony

I'd look lower down the wall for a connection unit. It looks like a blank
plate on the front of a back box.

"TonyJeffs" wrote in message
om...
| So far I have a 6 mm cable from the fuse box to the kitchen,
| terminating in a cooker 'socket' (correct term? It has a neon light,
| dpdt switch and the incoming and output terminals are inside it. It is
| not fused and there is no hole to run the cooker cable out)
|
| I imagine I need to continue the supply to another 15a fused outlet
| with a hole for the cooker flex with a gripper fitted in a convenient
| location at the back of the cooker?
| Or what should I do?
|
| Thanks
|
| Tony


On the subject of which.... I've a cooker rated 2.8kW. I can't see any good reason not to
extend the radial cct from the cooker switch to a 13A socket and put a 13A plug on a suitable
flex to the cooker (all run in 6mm^2 and protected at the CU witha 32A mCB). Makes maintenance
easy since the cooker just unplugs and introduces discrimination since I can put a 10A fuse in
the plug. Any disadvantages or reasons *not* to do this?

"Me" wrote in message
...

On the subject of which.... I've a cooker rated 2.8kW. I can't see any
good reason not to
extend the radial cct from the cooker switch to a 13A socket and put a 13A
plug on a suitable
flex to the cooker (all run in 6mm^2 and protected at the CU witha 32A
mCB). Makes maintenance
easy since the cooker just unplugs and introduces discrimination since I
can put a 10A fuse in
the plug. Any disadvantages or reasons *not* to do this?


If by cooker you mean oven then what you suggest is pretty much standard
practise - it's the 6.5+kw hobs that need hard wiring.
Richard.

Me,
A very slight disadvantage is perhaps that someone could plug a low
wattage device (eg a 40 watt lamp) into your 32amp supply socket.
But they'd have to crawl behind the kitchen units to do it.

I think your way is best. I'll see if there's a socket with the word
"cooker" on it in red, and use that to complete my installation, which
would somewhat overcome the above.

Thanks

Tony

In uk.d-i-y, TonyJeffs wrote:

A very slight disadvantage is perhaps that someone could plug a low
wattage device (eg a 40 watt lamp) into your 32amp supply socket.
But they'd have to crawl behind the kitchen units to do it.

And this is different from plugging that 40W lamp into a ring main
whose wiring is protected by a 32A breaker how, exactly? Either is fine.

Short-circuit and overload protection for the lamp cable is provided
by the fuse in the plugtop in the first instance. Short-circuit protection
is further provided by the MCB for the whole circuit. Plug-top fuses in
UK plugs are one of the things which makes ringmains feeding appliances
wired in wimpy 0.75mmsq cabling just fine - and that's one of the reasons
that a Euro Standard Plug is massively unlikely to ever happen. (Continental
wiring practice is much more in the direction of radials to individual
rooms or a couple of adjacent rooms, fused/breakered at 15A or 20A, and
Schucko-style unfused plugs-&-socketses. Possibly-overload-generating
appliances have thicker (1.5mmsq) cable than some UK manufacturers would
use with integral moulded plug. That, together with the "semi-polarised"
nature of Schucko plugs (you can certainly plug 2-pin plugs either way
round, and many of the 3-contact variants (2 pins for live & neutral,
'scraping' earth contacts at top and bottom) can also be plugged in
either way up) make any single Euro-wide plug-n-socket damned unlikely.
Interoperability in practice is largely achieved through using separate
mains cords with a country-specific plug at one end and a Standard
cable-end-socket (IEC320-style for 3-pin, figure-of-8-style for 2-pin)
at the other, with a matching chassis plug on the world-wide-identical
main unit.

Stefek