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Default Correct way to wire in an electric oven

In uk.d-i-y, TonyJeffs wrote:

A very slight disadvantage is perhaps that someone could plug a low
wattage device (eg a 40 watt lamp) into your 32amp supply socket.
But they'd have to crawl behind the kitchen units to do it.

And this is different from plugging that 40W lamp into a ring main
whose wiring is protected by a 32A breaker how, exactly? Either is fine.

Short-circuit and overload protection for the lamp cable is provided
by the fuse in the plugtop in the first instance. Short-circuit protection
is further provided by the MCB for the whole circuit. Plug-top fuses in
UK plugs are one of the things which makes ringmains feeding appliances
wired in wimpy 0.75mmsq cabling just fine - and that's one of the reasons
that a Euro Standard Plug is massively unlikely to ever happen. (Continental
wiring practice is much more in the direction of radials to individual
rooms or a couple of adjacent rooms, fused/breakered at 15A or 20A, and
Schucko-style unfused plugs-&-socketses. Possibly-overload-generating
appliances have thicker (1.5mmsq) cable than some UK manufacturers would
use with integral moulded plug. That, together with the "semi-polarised"
nature of Schucko plugs (you can certainly plug 2-pin plugs either way
round, and many of the 3-contact variants (2 pins for live & neutral,
'scraping' earth contacts at top and bottom) can also be plugged in
either way up) make any single Euro-wide plug-n-socket damned unlikely.
Interoperability in practice is largely achieved through using separate
mains cords with a country-specific plug at one end and a Standard
cable-end-socket (IEC320-style for 3-pin, figure-of-8-style for 2-pin)
at the other, with a matching chassis plug on the world-wide-identical
main unit.

Stefek