Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam about
this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights, each with 3
LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option would
be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into an IP66
box like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html & plug in
the wall wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 25 Oct, 17:29, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam about
this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. *10 lights, each with 3
LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. *Only other option would
be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. *I could run the cable from the unused light into an IP66
box like thishttp://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html& plug in
the wall wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

As long as it under 12W, a wall-wart-in-a-box :

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electrica...ll-mount/81326

Cheers
Adam

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 17:29

Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam about
this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights, each with
3 LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside
though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option
would be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into an
IP66 box like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html &
plug in the wall wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?

Overheating: I would think it'll be OK in a box like that, unless, perhaps,
the box in in full sun. There's quite a bit of space to air cool the wart
via convection and plenty of surface area to lose the heat through.

Can you not drill a tiny hole right through the wall and extend the extra
low voltage flex inside to meet the wall wart at a convenient socket?

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for differentiation
purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts plug is built in though.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line thinks: "Hmm
13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear labelling as to the
circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed by downstairs lights
breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Wait for some more informed opinions...

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Adam Aglionby wrote:
On 25 Oct, 17:29, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam
about this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights, each
with 3 LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside
though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option
would be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into
an IP66 box like
thishttp://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html& plug in the
wall wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

As long as it under 12W, a wall-wart-in-a-box :

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electrica...ll-mount/81326

I'm confused. How would that help? It doesn't have an IP rating.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 17:29

Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam
about this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights,
each with 3 LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside
though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option
would be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into
an IP66 box like this
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html & plug in the wall
wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?

Overheating: I would think it'll be OK in a box like that, unless,
perhaps, the box in in full sun. There's quite a bit of space to air
cool the wart via convection and plenty of surface area to lose the
heat through.

Can you not drill a tiny hole right through the wall and extend the
extra low voltage flex inside to meet the wall wart at a convenient
socket?

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout of the
house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.


The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU are one
unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout of the
house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling level,
hence the bathroom?

Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to doubt
you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones) - a SELV
cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less likely to turn
into an "issue" down the line.

What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish installer
favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the house in question.



The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU are one
unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down this
route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is backed by an
RCD - is the security light feed already covered by one?

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for those
sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without tripping the
lighting breaker.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to be
associated with it...

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground floor,
nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above deck level.

Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)


What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have extra long
bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a wall wart
is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to be
associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 22:21

Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground floor,
nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above deck level.

Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)


What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have extra
long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a wall wart
is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to be
associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)



--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 22:21

Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground floor,
nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above deck level.

The up to the soffit, though the loft trick? Down the corner of a bedroom
wall in a neat bit of D-Line trunking.

Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)

OK.


There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a wall wart
is too big to fit under the flap.

Oh - in that case, use the box you mentioned and plug the little extension
lead plug into the IP66 socket. Technically you're not even touching the
fixed wiring then. User can unplug the lead if the need the socket for the
lawnmower. It's not unneat either. Sorry - maybe I missed the bit about the
IP66 socket.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..
Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground floor,
nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above deck level.

Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)


What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have extra
long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a wall wart
is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to be
associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.

The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power transformer to
replace it with.

Adam

ARWadsworth wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message . ..
Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground
floor, nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above
deck level.
Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)


What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have
extra long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of
the lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is
fed by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by
one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a
wall wart is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to
be associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.

The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power
transformer to replace it with.


BING Genius! Why didn't I think of that?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. ..
ARWadsworth wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message . ..
Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground
floor, nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above
deck level.
Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)


What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have
extra long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of
the lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is
fed by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by
one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a
wall wart is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to
be associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.

The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power
transformer to replace it with.


BING Genius! Why didn't I think of that?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

LED lights, so it may be a constant current or constant voltage transformer.

Usually the constant voltage is the preferred option.

Adam

On 26 Oct, 17:52, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
ia.com...
Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
*wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. *I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout
of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground
floor, nothing above. *Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above
deck level.
Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to
doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones)
- a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less
likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom :-)

What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. *Hole isn't the problem, I have
extra long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of
the lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. *Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is
fed by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down
this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is
backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered by
one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for
those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without
tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a
wall wart is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to
be associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.

The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power
transformer to replace it with.

BING *Genius! *Why didn't I think of that?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Did try and point you in that direction Dave but it confused you....

As it happens though that range *was* IP rated, must be another one
that comes potted with tails.

By the way you say 12V and LED, guess you really want 12V D.C.
regulated, not an unregulated supply which would shorten life of LEDs
considerably.

Previously linked PSU ticks that box but not the IP rated one but as
suggested perhaps incorporation into a IP rated enclosure.

Most wall warts will have a non resetting thermal fuse which means in
extreme overheat it will fail , but fail safe.

Cheers
Adam

Adam Aglionby wrote:
On 26 Oct, 17:52, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
ia.com...
Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 21:26

Tim W wrote:

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the
layout of the house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom
floor.

I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling
level, hence the bathroom?

Sorry, should have made it clear, old house, bathroom on ground
floor, nothing above. Due to large slope bathroom floor is 3' above
deck level.
Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending
to doubt you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future
ones) - a SELV cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a
lot less likely to turn into an "issue" down the line.

There isn't anything left of right - only the neighbours bathroom
:-)

What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish
installer favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the
house in question.

That would go into the bathroom. Hole isn't the problem, I have
extra long bits & a Mak SDS.

The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of
the lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the
wall-warts plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU
are one unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is
fed by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.

The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go
down this route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit
is backed by an RCD - is the security light feed already covered
by one?

Don't know, I'll check.

Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging
a radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside.
And for those sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it
without tripping the lighting breaker.

There is a proper IP66 socket on the wall a few feet away, but a
wall wart is too big to fit under the flap.

The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to
be associated with it...

No, I wouldn't - hence the question :-)

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.

The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power
transformer to replace it with.

BING Genius! Why didn't I think of that?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Did try and point you in that direction Dave but it confused you....

I am a bear of very little brain sometimes...

As it happens though that range *was* IP rated, must be another one
that comes potted with tails.

By the way you say 12V and LED, guess you really want 12V D.C.
regulated, not an unregulated supply which would shorten life of LEDs
considerably.

Dunno, I'll have to check.

Previously linked PSU ticks that box but not the IP rated one but as
suggested perhaps incorporation into a IP rated enclosure.

That would be easier.

Most wall warts will have a non resetting thermal fuse which means in
extreme overheat it will fail , but fail safe.

Useful to know - thanks.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Owain wrote:
On 25 Oct, 17:29, "The Medway Handyman" wrote:
Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights, each
with 3 LED's.

Just found this while looking at other stuff

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=228966

# Four channel DC 12V - 800mA outputs
# AC 100 to 240V input - DC 12V output switched mode power supply
# Supplied with five cable grip pass-through IP66 rated cable glands
# Adjustable output voltage DC12 to 13.8V for long cable runs
# Wall mountable IP66 enclosure

Similar probably available elsewhere for less.

Owain

Cheers, alas twice the price of the lights :-(


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk