Tim W wrote:
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 17:29

Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam
about this, but wanted some more ideas.

Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights,
each with 3 LED's.

Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside
though.

Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option
would be a right mission.

So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into
an IP66 box like this
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html & plug in the wall
wart.

Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?

Overheating: I would think it'll be OK in a box like that, unless,
perhaps, the box in in full sun. There's quite a bit of space to air
cool the wart via convection and plenty of surface area to lose the
heat through.

Can you not drill a tiny hole right through the wall and extend the
extra low voltage flex inside to meet the wall wart at a convenient
socket?

Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?

Not the only way. I could do as you suggest, but due to the layout of the
house I'd have to run a cable under the bathroom floor.


The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for
differentiation purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts
plug is built in though.

It is one of theose 'fat plug' type wall warts e.g the plug & PSU are one
unit. Like a Nokia charger.

The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line
thinks: "Hmm 13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear
labelling as to the circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed
by downstairs lights breaker, max load 1A" or something...).

Good point - thanks.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk