I realise this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question.
I have a cordless drill/driver (Worx 12V) and I have got fed up with
swapping drill bit for screwdriver bit and back again I have a WEE
(£50~£60) bit money to spend, should I go for a cordless screwdriver or
should I go for another cheapish drill/driver. All ready have a mains
drill (with Hammer function. Not SDS though) for heavier jobs.

Was seriously thinking of the Worx cordless hammer drill (14.4V) which
is currently half price from Argos but it seems to be out of stock in
all the Edinburgh and environs shops. Is it still value at full price,
and I should save up more ? Probably by the time I have saved the extra
they will be back in stock but at the 'full' price.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...ext%3EWORX.htm

On 5 Oct, 16:56, soup wrote:
I realise this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question.
I have a cordless drill/driver (Worx 12V) and I have got fed up with
swapping drill bit for screwdriver bit and back again *I have a WEE
(£50~£60) bit money to spend, should I go for a cordless screwdriver or
should I go for another cheapish drill/driver. All ready have a mains
drill (with Hammer function. *Not SDS though) for heavier jobs.

* Was seriously thinking of the Worx cordless hammer drill (14.4V) which
is currently half price from Argos but it seems to be out of stock in
all the Edinburgh and environs shops. *Is it still value at full price,
and I should save up more ? *Probably by the time I have saved the extra
* they will be back in stock but at the 'full' price.http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...0/Trail/search...

If you're getting a screwdriver, I'd recommend you get an impact
driver. I bought the Ryobi One+ driver a while back, it's a bit
overpriced on its own but Screwfix often have it in a set with a drill
and 2 batteries for £99 which is a bargain.

Yup- go for an impact driver, if you're building heavier
constructional joinery - not so good for small cabinet screws.

A cheap solution though is hex-bit drills swapped with screwdriver
bits in a holder.

soup wrote:
I realise this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question.
I have a cordless drill/driver (Worx 12V) and I have got fed up with
swapping drill bit for screwdriver bit and back again I have a WEE
(£50~£60) bit money to spend, should I go for a cordless screwdriver
or should I go for another cheapish drill/driver. All ready have a
mains drill (with Hammer function. Not SDS though) for heavier jobs.

You can overcome that problem by using a 'flip driver'.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAKITA-P-44052...QQcmdZViewItem

The holder fits your drill driver and the 'bit' is double ended. One end a
pilot drill & countersink and the other a pozi bit.

Or you can use a quick release bit holder
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15431/...it-Holder-60mm

You can then rapidly change from pozi bit to drill - as long as you buy
drills with the standard hex shank - which does limit you somewhat.

Many of the smaller & cheaper cordless drivers have internal batteries,
which means you can't carry on when it runs flat.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
soup wrote:
I realise this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string'
question. I have a cordless drill/driver (Worx 12V) and I have got
fed up with swapping drill bit for screwdriver bit and back again

Just a thought. Why would you need to swap a drill bit for screwdriver bit
(unless it was a masonry drill bit)?

I haven't drilled a pilot hole in years.. Check out
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A331374...rboGold-Screws


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Oct 5, 4:56*pm, soup wrote:
I realise this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question.
I have a cordless drill/driver (Worx 12V) and I have got fed up with
swapping drill bit for screwdriver bit and back again *I have a WEE
(£50~£60) bit money to spend, should I go for a cordless screwdriver or
should I go for another cheapish drill/driver. All ready have a mains
drill (with Hammer function. *Not SDS though) for heavier jobs.

* Was seriously thinking of the Worx cordless hammer drill (14.4V) which
is currently half price from Argos but it seems to be out of stock in
all the Edinburgh and environs shops. *Is it still value at full price,
and I should save up more ? *Probably by the time I have saved the extra
* they will be back in stock but at the 'full' price.http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...0/Trail/search...


I'd definitely go with a 2nd drill/driver, the performance of low
voltage cordless screwdrivers tends to be pitiful.

Picking one that takes the same batteries as the existing one is a
plus. The titan offerings are cheap at screwfix and more than
effective enough.

Re hammer action on cordless, I've yet to find much use for it. If
violence is needed, best to go for mains kit, which is far more
powerful than any cordless.

There is another tip: for drilling wood you can regrind drill bits to
give way faster performance, making your cordless much more capable.
More speed, more holes per charge.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...e_Twist_Drills


NT

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Just a thought. Why would you need to swap a drill bit for screwdriver bit
(unless it was a masonry drill bit)?
I haven't drilled a pilot hole in years.

I guess it is just a habit I got into, I drill pilot holes in "everything".

soup wrote:

I guess it is just a habit I got into, I drill pilot holes in "everything".

....and I pilot hole then screw in, then pilot the next hole then screw,
then... hence all the bit swapping.

On Oct 6, 8:20*am, soup wrote:
soup wrote:
I guess it is just a habit I got into, I drill pilot holes in "everything".

...and I pilot hole then screw in, then pilot the next hole then screw,
then... hence all the bit swapping.

may also be worth considering an old mains drill. These do much higher
speed than a cordless, they never run out, they're far more reliable,
and at £3 or so you can then get yourself some other fancy tool.


NT

For the hack DIYer its rarely necessary to drill pilot holes when
setting screws into wet forced-grown knotty pine from one of the sheds
but is a "must do" if doing better class work. If the job requires
setting brass (not the plated junk) into decent well-dried stuff then
its best to run a steel screw in first to form a thread.

In article
,
NT wrote:
I'd definitely go with a 2nd drill/driver, the performance of low
voltage cordless screwdrivers tends to be pitiful.

You've not tried a Makita TD20D, then. ;-)

--
*Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

soup wrote:
soup wrote:

I guess it is just a habit I got into, I drill pilot holes in
"everything".

...and I pilot hole then screw in, then pilot the next hole then
screw, then... hence all the bit swapping.

Buy some Turbogolds from SF - you ain't gonna believe how well they work.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Oct 6, 8:59*am, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

I'd definitely go with a 2nd drill/driver, the performance of low
voltage cordless screwdrivers tends to be pitiful.

You've not tried a Makita TD20D, then. ;-)

no

NT wrote:
On Oct 6, 8:59 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
NT wrote:

I'd definitely go with a 2nd drill/driver, the performance of low
voltage cordless screwdrivers tends to be pitiful.

You've not tried a Makita TD20D, then. ;-)

no

You should :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk